getawaymountain 16/17 seeders

[psychadelibud]

The early chop sounds familiar. Tossed a couple really wide Pine Apple Chunk girls already, not even worth salvaging. They normally resist mold better. Will probably whack a Green Crack today, earlier than intended, try to make the best of it.



You might want to internet research hydrogen peroxide sprays for mold issues. Serenade tends to be more of a systemic and preventative measure and may not be what you're looking for at this stage of flower.

Rob, I also use hydrogen peroxide. I bought the kind that comes in the pump/spray bottle, I think 3%? And I keep a few bottles put back for refills.

I always do a through investigation of my buds everyday, if I see a spot with a little rot, I don't touch it and disturb it. First I pull out my bottle of hydrogen peroxide and spray the spot best I can without touching it and mist a few inches around the infected area. You can watch the mold/rot start foaming and boiling, melting down. Then I will take scissors or razor blade and clear the area out and place it into a zip lock baggie. Then spray the area once more after the rot is removed. It works pretty well.

One thing I have realized is to be careful when growing outdoors if you have any rot in the area, not to remove leaves or branches or wound the plant in any way or form. This creates an opening in the plants system for inviting spores and bacteria into the plant only to spread quickly and violently. If you do have to wound the plant in anyway, I have found that you can spray the area and clean the wound with peroxide and then take a bottle of black strap molasses and a glove on the hand, dip your finger into the molasses and rub it all over the wound and seal it. It works great. I assume you can also use prune sealer as well if needed or a spray glue would work as well.

But rot is likely a battle us outdoor and guerilla growers will never win. But we can keep a trade and variety or tactics and weapons on hand, yo attack the enemy at all angles and weaken it to its knees. Maybe in time there will be the "perfect" cure for botrytis with no adverse effects or second guessing's.

Oh one more thing I would like to note. When using hydrogen peroxide if you decide to use a sprayer or spray bottle and it has any chance of being in the sunlight this will disable the peroxide and pretty much render it useless. It has to be kept in the brown, black or any other color to keep out direct light. That is why it comes in those dark bottles. I know most know this already but i'm sure a few don't.

 

[psychadelibud]

Oh and next time you guys find any powdery mildew on any leaves, spray a bit of h2o2 on the powdery mildew and watch it disappear.

 

[getawaymountain]

the end !!!

 

[psychadelibud]

Always sucks when the season comes to an end. But that's when we switch over to some indoor fun haha.

 

[psychadelibud]

You had a wonderful and beautiful grow Getaway, looks like you guys made it the way you planned! Honestly, I wish my grow was already over, but I have many plants that has not even started flowering yet .

 

[DankBudzzz]

View attachment 4018726 View attachment 4018727
the end !!!

can't believe your finished already! I'm gonna run a lot of R2 stuff next year in hopes of more early phenos, some of my getaway special and maniak cracks will need 2-4 weeks still and there was a light frost last night. Great season! Congrats!

 

[Rob Roy]

Rob, I also use hydrogen peroxide. I bought the kind that comes in the pump/spray bottle, I think 3%? And I keep a few bottles put back for refills.

I always do a through investigation of my buds everyday, if I see a spot with a little rot, I don't touch it and disturb it. First I pull out my bottle of hydrogen peroxide and spray the spot best I can without touching it and mist a few inches around the infected area. You can watch the mold/rot start foaming and boiling, melting down. Then I will take scissors or razor blade and clear the area out and place it into a zip lock baggie. Then spray the area once more after the rot is removed. It works pretty well.

One thing I have realized is to be careful when growing outdoors if you have any rot in the area, not to remove leaves or branches or wound the plant in any way or form. This creates an opening in the plants system for inviting spores and bacteria into the plant only to spread quickly and violently. If you do have to wound the plant in anyway, I have found that you can spray the area and clean the wound with peroxide and then take a bottle of black strap molasses and a glove on the hand, dip your finger into the molasses and rub it all over the wound and seal it. It works great. I assume you can also use prune sealer as well if needed or a spray glue would work as well.

But rot is likely a battle us outdoor and guerilla growers will never win. But we can keep a trade and variety or tactics and weapons on hand, yo attack the enemy at all angles and weaken it to its knees. Maybe in time there will be the "perfect" cure for botrytis with no adverse effects or second guessing's.

Oh one more thing I would like to note. When using hydrogen peroxide if you decide to use a sprayer or spray bottle and it has any chance of being in the sunlight this will disable the peroxide and pretty much render it useless. It has to be kept in the brown, black or any other color to keep out direct light. That is why it comes in those dark bottles. I know most know this already but i'm sure a few don't.

Good points.

 

[Skunkypounds]

can't believe your finished already! I'm gonna run a lot of R2 stuff next year in hopes of more early phenos, some of my getaway special and maniak cracks will need 2-4 weeks still and there was a light frost last night. Great season! Congrats!

Isn't the frost going to kill what you have out still?

 

[DankBudzzz]

Isn't the frost going to kill what you have out still?

Nah they will handle the light frost this will be the second one, typically we get this time off year and then get a few weeks in October before hard frost sets in which will kill em. Some handle it better, I had one that took the frost badly but it was getting chopped for mold anyways

 

[Skunkypounds]

Nah they will handle the light frost this will be the second one, typically we get this time off year and then get a few weeks in October before hard frost sets in which will kill em. Some handle it better, I had one that took the frost badly but it was getting chopped for mold anyways

I never had to deal w frost in western NY. Im in Northern Vermont now with patches all over the place and its supposed to be 32 tomorrow night, should I be worried? Its only supposed to be 32 for a night and then better temps for the next couple weeks. Im sick because my strains in NY were done the last week of Sept but here they are 3 weeks behind, another great surprise. Im going nuts rn!

 

[DankBudzzz]

I wouldn't be too concerned, if you have easy access cover them or go out and rinse the frost off with water then shake the excess off. If you don't have easy access then pray... 32 isn't to bad. Depends a lot on the strain too.

 

[Skunkypounds]

I wouldn't be too concerned, if you have easy access cover them or go out and rinse the frost off with water then shake the excess off. If you don't have easy access then pray... 32 isn't to bad. Depends a lot on the strain too.

I can cover a bunch of them, there are over 200 so Ill have to make the biggest/best ones priority. I should use sheets right?

 

[DankBudzzz]

I can cover a bunch of them, there are over 200 so Ill have to make the biggest/best ones priority. I should use sheets right?

Holy shit that's insane! I used sheets as long as you can get out in the morning to uncover them....that's a lot of sheets though

 

[psychadelibud]

I am in South Eastern Appalachians, I grow plants every year into November and have close affiliated partners that even go into December. I currently have a little over half my crop and plant numbers out, the other other half are still in a safe house, under 1000w hps bulbs, vegging in 24/0 mode. I planned on getting yhem out a week ago, but I want them as big as possible before throwing them out to flower. They have finally worked their way to 20 gallon grow bags and bushy as hell. So I estimate them to be ready by at least middle of November.

I have had plants sit through multiple frosts and light freezes (between 36 to 28 degrees) they are tougher than you would ever imagine. The main priority is to keep the roots from freezing. The tops can handle some hardcore weather. The majority of the ones that I saved to go out late late are the R2's and they are known for taking on harsh cold weather anyway.

Getaway, or anyone else that has grown the Poison Warp cross with The Church, how long does it take it to finish? Is it a longer flowering plant? I have a few of those put back as well and they are huge!

Another thing i enjoy about pushing the plants into really cold weather is the color changes in the buds. This increases bag appeal and sales by at least 30-40%. They usually turn all kinds of fruity colors such as fruity pebbles. People love that around here. It will make the R-2 more purple than it already naturally is, and the cold seems to bring out more trich coverage and frost factor on the flowers as well ime.

One thing that I think us late growers have going for us is the National Weather Service has predicted and claimed a milder and warmer fall than usual with record breaking temperatures. Supposedly according to them, each year it is suppose to get milder and milder. I know last year was very mild here.

Good luck everyone!

 

[psychadelibud]

Here is a another nice and different pheno I found in the Island Afghanis. She has beautiful pink pistils, then that one that is super frosty I had posted a few days ago. IA is a very interesting strain indeed, I will run it every year for sure. This is the only Island Afghani out of 19 or 20 that has pink pistils.

The other bud that is further along is Poison Warp takin' in the morning sun.

In the last photo is a Poison Warp that I put out this morning to show you an example of how I am vegging and training indoor getting them big and bushy before throwing them out to flower. The 24/0 veg kept them short and manageable, any other light cycle would have really crowded the shit out of the room. She got transplanted into a 30 gal right after that photo to finish off the year!

 

[too larry]

I am in South Eastern Appalachians, I grow plants every year into November and have close affiliated partners that even go into December. I currently have a little over half my crop and plant numbers out, the other other half are still in a safe house, under 1000w hps bulbs, vegging in 24/0 mode. I planned on getting yhem out a week ago, but I want them as big as possible before throwing them out to flower. They have finally worked their way to 20 gallon grow bags and bushy as hell. So I estimate them to be ready by at least middle of November.

I have had plants sit through multiple frosts and light freezes (between 36 to 28 degrees) they are tougher than you would ever imagine. The main priority is to keep the roots from freezing. The tops can handle some hardcore weather. The majority of the ones that I saved to go out late late are the R2's and they are known for taking on harsh cold weather anyway.

Getaway, or anyone else that has grown the Poison Warp cross with The Church, how long does it take it to finish? Is it a longer flowering plant? I have a few of those put back as well and they are huge!

Another thing i enjoy about pushing the plants into really cold weather is the color changes in the buds. This increases bag appeal and sales by at least 30-40%. They usually turn all kinds of fruity colors such as fruity pebbles. People love that around here. It will make the R-2 more purple than it already naturally is, and the cold seems to bring out more trich coverage and frost factor on the flowers as well ime.

One thing that I think us late growers have going for us is the National Weather Service has predicted and claimed a milder and warmer fall than usual with record breaking temperatures. Supposedly according to them, each year it is suppose to get milder and milder. I know last year was very mild here.

Good luck everyone!

I did a fall/winter seed test, as well as a full on spring crop down here in NW Florida last go round. Only had two cold snaps that really hurt me. The first one killed 12 young plants just out from under the lights. Not really that cold, but the plants had not had a chance to harden off. The next one was two nights down to 25F. I covered the plants for this one, but still got some "burn" on the top buds. It's always a risk, but I've got sprouts going now from my new strains for a fall/winter seed testers. Will start some of the older strains soon for the spring crop.

And my CP1, CPDA, Too Slow and other sativa leaning strains go well into November.

 

[Skunkypounds]

Holy shit that's insane! I used sheets as long as you can get out in the morning to uncover them....that's a lot of sheets though[/QUO

View attachment 3998557 View attachment 3998558 View attachment 3998559 View attachment 3998560 View attachment 3998561 View attachment 3998562 View attachment 3998563
plants are loving the morning sun here today and everything is doing good

Is that the R2- 3rd from bottom (w the stake in the center of pic)or another flavor? Those look like they are going to be some good size colas for aug.when you posted. Im going to make an order, need that for outside next year.

 

[getawaymountain]

Is that the R2- 3rd from bottom (w the stake in the center of pic)or another flavor? Those look like they are going to be some good size colas for aug.when you posted. Im going to make an order, need that for outside next year.

r2 poison ( r-2 x poison warp ) those ones where

 

[getawaymountain]

Here is a another nice and different pheno I found in the Island Afghanis. She has beautiful pink pistils, then that one that is super frosty I had posted a few days ago. IA is a very interesting strain indeed, I will run it every year for sure. This is the only Island Afghani out of 19 or 20 that has pink pistils.

The other bud that is further along is Poison Warp takin' in the morning sun.

In the last photo is a Poison Warp that I put out this morning to show you an example of how I am vegging and training indoor getting them big and bushy before throwing them out to flower. The 24/0 veg kept them short and manageable, any other light cycle would have really crowded the shit out of the room. She got transplanted into a 30 gal right after that photo to finish off the year!

View attachment 4018944 View attachment 4018946 View attachment 4018947 View attachment 4018948 View attachment 4018949 View attachment 4018950 View attachment 4018951 View attachment 4018952 View attachment 4018953

looking good there buddy good luck till end of season

 

[Skunkypounds]

r2 poison ( r-2 x poison warp ) those ones where

Cool.. Im about to order all of your genetics. You are in Maine right? Anyone running any of them Vermont? I haven't read through the entire thread but Im curious if they will finish around the same dates her in Northern VT. What I have outside now has weeks to go and Im sick over it. These damn strains were totally mature at the very end of September last year when i lived in Western NY. Cant go through this again next yr.