dopeonarope
Well-Known Member
they make a nice little axe for camping and dismembering too
Aussie Growers Thread
- Thread starter jats
- Start date
giglewigle
Well-Known Member
lol the difference is tho u probly where them lol thats anice colection man
OzCocoLoco
Well-Known Member
I've got more that's only about half of them, I'm in rehab at the moment have only bought 1 pair in the last 3 months but I'm hanging out for a fix lol
giglewigle
Well-Known Member
hmm thats wierd i just got this random package ay i wonder what it is @ruby fruit @OzCocoLoco @Nugachino 
giglewigle
Well-Known Member
rehab ill mind my own buisness on that one best of luck mate day at a time man lol ull never guess bro i got this random package in tje mail bro
giglewigle
Well-Known Member
rofl pmsl IM DYING @ruby fruit @Nugachino @OzCocoLoco lol fuck and just think i was looking at buying one of those to fucken thoughfull cunt ay
fuck ye i can try anal and read high times lol
fuck ye i can try anal and read high times lol
dopeonarope
Well-Known Member
better wash that thing first
OzCocoLoco
Well-Known Member
I bet he's already given it a good sniff and a lick
ruby fruit
Well-Known Member
Brand new out the box man missus said it looked to small she didn't want it came in hard plastic and was a cunt to fit in the package so I opened it..thought gigs might give it to his aunty lol
ruby fruit
Well-Known Member
Don't forget to tip the coffee out first lol
ruby fruit
Well-Known Member
Get back to us after u rip a bong of your first bud since March lol
OzCocoLoco
Well-Known Member
If he is able to move lol
OzCocoLoco
Well-Known Member
This is about as good of an explanation on building soil as I've seen it's from buildasoil in the U.S there's a good bit about making castings in it aswell
All Credit for recipe to Clackamas Coots
Step #1: Design The Base Mix Ratios.
This is benchmark to use at first and then start tweaking based on your situation.
1:1:1
This means that there are 3 main components at 1 part each.
Example: To make 15 gallons of soil. 1 Part would be 5 gallons.
1 Part Sphagnum Peatmoss, Coco Coir, Leaf-mold, Etc.
1 Part Aeration material like lava rock, pumice, perlite, rice hulls etc.
1 Part Vermicompost or plain compost.
The recipe that I prefer is a little more complicated and is as follows.
40% Sphagnum Peat Moss
25% Vermicompost
20% Pumice
15% Par Boiled Rice Hulls
You’ll notice that if you combine the rice hulls and pumice it’s basically a 1:1:1 mix with just a little less vermicompost as I like to top-dress with more.
Step #2: Adding The Minerals & Nutrients:
Consider each ingredient and why it's being added. Also consider that many organic approved products just aren't as good as others. The top ingredients that are popular that most organic growers avoid are as follows: Blood meal, bone meal, guano, soy, cotton, corn and many other soil conditioners that come from potential GMO crops etc.
A brief explanation of using Cubic Feet as a measurement: Most soil companies sell their soil by the Cubic Foot as do we. But there is a big difference between what constitutes a Cubic Foot. When looking up the Volume for a “DRY” cubic foot in gallons you’ll find 6.4285 gallons. But when looking up the “Liquid” volume for a Cubic Foot you’ll find 7.4805 gallons. Well you won’t be surprised to find that most home gardeners use 7.5 gallons as a cubic foot but most soil companies use 6.4285 gallons per cubic foot. This will explain why you have less soil in some bags than others from two different companies. To be clear, we use 7.5 Gallons at BuildASoil.com for all of our soil bagging and measurements for addition of amendments.
Here is a recipe that has been proven with soil testing at labs to have a very ideal ratio of nutrients and minerals.
1/2 Cup per cubic foot the following:
* Neem Cake and/or Karanja Cake (NPK, Micro Nutrients and reported Bug Defense all in one)
* Kelp Meal (NPK, Micro Nutrients, Growth Hormones and many other benefits)
* Crustacean Meal (Crab and/or Shrimp Meal) (Calcium, Nitrogen and Chitin along with other benefits)
4 Cups per cubic foot of a mineral mix:
1 Cups Glacial Rock Dust (diverse assortment of minerals)
1 Cup Gypsum (Calcium and Sulfur)
1 Cup Oyster Shell Flour (Very available Calcium to help buffer PH of the Peatmoss)
1 Cup Basalt (Paramagnetic Rock Dust from lava flow that is high in micronutrients)
The Nutrients added above cover all the NPK and all the micronutrients and I could explain why each ingredient is added all day long, but I encourage you to do your own research.
Now let’s say that you had access to a range of Fertilizer amendments to use, which ones should you choose? I like to choose the best product and also the most economical. For instance Guano is really expensive and typically only brings one or two things to the table. Where as Kelp Meal is fairly affordable and brings every nutrient and micronutrient with it along with growth hormones and other secondary benefits. Would it be better to eat Red meat all day long or maybe a little fish protein with some vegetable protein? Same for your soil! No need to get all crazy with Blood meal when we can use, Crustacean, Neem, Fish etc. and all of the ingredients I just mentioned bring tons of secondary benefits where as the Blood Meal only brings Nitrogen and some salt.
Note: If you only have access to Blood Meal, you will be fine and can totally use it, I’m not trying to get on a high horse and look down on people that use these ingredients. I’m only hoping to give reasons to look for better ingredients when those choices are available and providing some reasons for those that want them. All in all, I’d rather see a Blood, Bone and Guano Mix over a synthetic nutrient grow all day long.... but if you start looking into the environmental impact of some of the ingredients we use you’ll quickly consider making your own soil from totally local ingredients and once you have an idea how well this recipe performs you can start tweaking it to use what is available in your region.
Some Recommendations for custom soil building:
MORE isn’t always better. Consider the Kelp, Crustacean and Neem Fertilizers that I recently recommended. Suppose a hypothetical situation where they all take exactly 6 months to be completely broken down in the soil and offer little to no benefit to the plant any longer. Well, adding twice the amount will still lead to a depletion in 6 months... it’s not like having twice the kelp will last twice as long, much better to top dress some a little later or incorporate into teas.
Most soil recipes have a total of 1.5 - 3 cups of Total fertilizers added per cubic foot of Mix. I like to keep things really minimal knowing I can always add more later and topdressing is so easy when you pre-mix with vermicompost. No worry about burning. The other reason I like to add small amounts of simple ingredients is because it allows you to diversify the soil with ingredients you haven’t added later on. For instance, my recipe doesn’t call for Alfalfa, but I love the stuff and make tea’s with it all the time, no reason to have it in the soil and in the tea. But if you never want to brew teas you could always top dress. It’s up to you.
Take it to the next level with Home made Vermicompost and you’ll have a soil better than 99% of the growers out there. Here is an excellent recipe from the guy who really got my brain thinking, Clackamas Coots:
“This is the compost that I started with:
1 c.y. organic barley straw
12 lbs. basalt rock dust
2 c.f. roughly chopped Comfrey as the Nitrogen source
5 c.f. pumice (1/4" size)
When the material ramped back down to 100F or so I added the following:
3 lbs. kelp meal 3 lbs. a neem / karanja meal mix that I had made because I was bored - obviously 1 lb. organic alfalfa meal 1 c.f. roughly chopped Comfrey leaves 1 c.f. roughly chopped mint mix - Peppermint, Spearmint, Thyme, Cilantro, Holy Basil (Tulsi) and chopped Rosemary 3 lbs. organic fish meal 3 lbs. crustacean meal
I loaded this into #150 SmartPot and dumped about 3 gallons of worms that I harvested from other set-ups also using SmartPots. Basically 3 gallons is somewhere around 10 - 11 lbs. of worms. I covered this with barley straw to reduce evaporation in the bedding material.
A year later I harvested over 28 lbs. of worms, thousands and thousands of cocoons (using a 1/8" screen which will capture the cocoons) and this specific batch of vermicompost is what I'm currently using.
It's all about patience - it takes time to create premium humus.
Dat's it!
CC
Then just mix it up as such:
1/3 Humus 1/3 SPM or Leaf Mold 1/3 Aeration (Rice hulls/Pumice/Lava Rock)
A bit of time and effort is required at the front end for sure. After that's done, just add water.”
Mixing the soil together: Recipe for about 18 Cubic Feet of soil or 135 Gallons.
I like to use a big tarp when making soil by hand.
(1) 3.8 Cubic Foot Bale of Sphagnum Peat moss will expand to about 6 cubic feet when opened up. That means that you could make about 15-18 cubic feet of soil with one 3.8 cubic foot bale of peatmoss depending on your final percentages.
I like to break up the peat moss into a flat thick layer on the tarp and then dump the castings on top of that. Then dump all the minerals and fertilizers on top of that followed by your aeration amendments and mix thoroughly. Every once in awhile I take the edge of the tarp and flip the soil back to the middle and keep mixing.... sometimes I move the soil from the left side of the tarp over to the right side of the tarp and then back to the middle just to make sure it’s all mixed well. All in all, don’t get to freaked out about things being mixed exact because it’s all organic and very forgiving.
Once your soil is mixed up, you can plant immediately into it and add a compost tea to kick start the process. With that being said, it always works a little better if you let the soil sit in a big pile to homogenize or “Cook.” Without the use of Bloods, Bones and Guano’s it shouldn’t burn any plants but will be ready to use faster with the pre-digestion of the nutrients in the soil. When making soil in big piles above 200 gallons things heat up really fast and will need to be turned every couple days until the heating stops and you are then ready to use the soil.
All Credit for recipe to Clackamas Coots
Step #1: Design The Base Mix Ratios.
This is benchmark to use at first and then start tweaking based on your situation.
1:1:1
This means that there are 3 main components at 1 part each.
Example: To make 15 gallons of soil. 1 Part would be 5 gallons.
1 Part Sphagnum Peatmoss, Coco Coir, Leaf-mold, Etc.
1 Part Aeration material like lava rock, pumice, perlite, rice hulls etc.
1 Part Vermicompost or plain compost.
The recipe that I prefer is a little more complicated and is as follows.
40% Sphagnum Peat Moss
25% Vermicompost
20% Pumice
15% Par Boiled Rice Hulls
You’ll notice that if you combine the rice hulls and pumice it’s basically a 1:1:1 mix with just a little less vermicompost as I like to top-dress with more.
Step #2: Adding The Minerals & Nutrients:
Consider each ingredient and why it's being added. Also consider that many organic approved products just aren't as good as others. The top ingredients that are popular that most organic growers avoid are as follows: Blood meal, bone meal, guano, soy, cotton, corn and many other soil conditioners that come from potential GMO crops etc.
A brief explanation of using Cubic Feet as a measurement: Most soil companies sell their soil by the Cubic Foot as do we. But there is a big difference between what constitutes a Cubic Foot. When looking up the Volume for a “DRY” cubic foot in gallons you’ll find 6.4285 gallons. But when looking up the “Liquid” volume for a Cubic Foot you’ll find 7.4805 gallons. Well you won’t be surprised to find that most home gardeners use 7.5 gallons as a cubic foot but most soil companies use 6.4285 gallons per cubic foot. This will explain why you have less soil in some bags than others from two different companies. To be clear, we use 7.5 Gallons at BuildASoil.com for all of our soil bagging and measurements for addition of amendments.
Here is a recipe that has been proven with soil testing at labs to have a very ideal ratio of nutrients and minerals.
1/2 Cup per cubic foot the following:
* Neem Cake and/or Karanja Cake (NPK, Micro Nutrients and reported Bug Defense all in one)
* Kelp Meal (NPK, Micro Nutrients, Growth Hormones and many other benefits)
* Crustacean Meal (Crab and/or Shrimp Meal) (Calcium, Nitrogen and Chitin along with other benefits)
4 Cups per cubic foot of a mineral mix:
1 Cups Glacial Rock Dust (diverse assortment of minerals)
1 Cup Gypsum (Calcium and Sulfur)
1 Cup Oyster Shell Flour (Very available Calcium to help buffer PH of the Peatmoss)
1 Cup Basalt (Paramagnetic Rock Dust from lava flow that is high in micronutrients)
The Nutrients added above cover all the NPK and all the micronutrients and I could explain why each ingredient is added all day long, but I encourage you to do your own research.
Now let’s say that you had access to a range of Fertilizer amendments to use, which ones should you choose? I like to choose the best product and also the most economical. For instance Guano is really expensive and typically only brings one or two things to the table. Where as Kelp Meal is fairly affordable and brings every nutrient and micronutrient with it along with growth hormones and other secondary benefits. Would it be better to eat Red meat all day long or maybe a little fish protein with some vegetable protein? Same for your soil! No need to get all crazy with Blood meal when we can use, Crustacean, Neem, Fish etc. and all of the ingredients I just mentioned bring tons of secondary benefits where as the Blood Meal only brings Nitrogen and some salt.
Note: If you only have access to Blood Meal, you will be fine and can totally use it, I’m not trying to get on a high horse and look down on people that use these ingredients. I’m only hoping to give reasons to look for better ingredients when those choices are available and providing some reasons for those that want them. All in all, I’d rather see a Blood, Bone and Guano Mix over a synthetic nutrient grow all day long.... but if you start looking into the environmental impact of some of the ingredients we use you’ll quickly consider making your own soil from totally local ingredients and once you have an idea how well this recipe performs you can start tweaking it to use what is available in your region.
Some Recommendations for custom soil building:
MORE isn’t always better. Consider the Kelp, Crustacean and Neem Fertilizers that I recently recommended. Suppose a hypothetical situation where they all take exactly 6 months to be completely broken down in the soil and offer little to no benefit to the plant any longer. Well, adding twice the amount will still lead to a depletion in 6 months... it’s not like having twice the kelp will last twice as long, much better to top dress some a little later or incorporate into teas.
Most soil recipes have a total of 1.5 - 3 cups of Total fertilizers added per cubic foot of Mix. I like to keep things really minimal knowing I can always add more later and topdressing is so easy when you pre-mix with vermicompost. No worry about burning. The other reason I like to add small amounts of simple ingredients is because it allows you to diversify the soil with ingredients you haven’t added later on. For instance, my recipe doesn’t call for Alfalfa, but I love the stuff and make tea’s with it all the time, no reason to have it in the soil and in the tea. But if you never want to brew teas you could always top dress. It’s up to you.
Take it to the next level with Home made Vermicompost and you’ll have a soil better than 99% of the growers out there. Here is an excellent recipe from the guy who really got my brain thinking, Clackamas Coots:
“This is the compost that I started with:
1 c.y. organic barley straw
12 lbs. basalt rock dust
2 c.f. roughly chopped Comfrey as the Nitrogen source
5 c.f. pumice (1/4" size)
When the material ramped back down to 100F or so I added the following:
3 lbs. kelp meal 3 lbs. a neem / karanja meal mix that I had made because I was bored - obviously 1 lb. organic alfalfa meal 1 c.f. roughly chopped Comfrey leaves 1 c.f. roughly chopped mint mix - Peppermint, Spearmint, Thyme, Cilantro, Holy Basil (Tulsi) and chopped Rosemary 3 lbs. organic fish meal 3 lbs. crustacean meal
I loaded this into #150 SmartPot and dumped about 3 gallons of worms that I harvested from other set-ups also using SmartPots. Basically 3 gallons is somewhere around 10 - 11 lbs. of worms. I covered this with barley straw to reduce evaporation in the bedding material.
A year later I harvested over 28 lbs. of worms, thousands and thousands of cocoons (using a 1/8" screen which will capture the cocoons) and this specific batch of vermicompost is what I'm currently using.
It's all about patience - it takes time to create premium humus.
Dat's it!
CC
Then just mix it up as such:
1/3 Humus 1/3 SPM or Leaf Mold 1/3 Aeration (Rice hulls/Pumice/Lava Rock)
A bit of time and effort is required at the front end for sure. After that's done, just add water.”
Mixing the soil together: Recipe for about 18 Cubic Feet of soil or 135 Gallons.
I like to use a big tarp when making soil by hand.
(1) 3.8 Cubic Foot Bale of Sphagnum Peat moss will expand to about 6 cubic feet when opened up. That means that you could make about 15-18 cubic feet of soil with one 3.8 cubic foot bale of peatmoss depending on your final percentages.
I like to break up the peat moss into a flat thick layer on the tarp and then dump the castings on top of that. Then dump all the minerals and fertilizers on top of that followed by your aeration amendments and mix thoroughly. Every once in awhile I take the edge of the tarp and flip the soil back to the middle and keep mixing.... sometimes I move the soil from the left side of the tarp over to the right side of the tarp and then back to the middle just to make sure it’s all mixed well. All in all, don’t get to freaked out about things being mixed exact because it’s all organic and very forgiving.
Once your soil is mixed up, you can plant immediately into it and add a compost tea to kick start the process. With that being said, it always works a little better if you let the soil sit in a big pile to homogenize or “Cook.” Without the use of Bloods, Bones and Guano’s it shouldn’t burn any plants but will be ready to use faster with the pre-digestion of the nutrients in the soil. When making soil in big piles above 200 gallons things heat up really fast and will need to be turned every couple days until the heating stops and you are then ready to use the soil.
Joomby
Well-Known Member
Nice little care package. What bud did you send him @rubyFruit
rayuki
Well-Known Member
I had to get up all dishevled ran half naked to the door before mine took off lol. Barely heard him cause it was pissing down rain. This shit was worth it though can't wait to get it pumping up my buds.
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giglewigle
Well-Known Member
fuck yes i hope it makes fucken dank as fuck nugs for ya cunt lol what strain u geowen man
rayuki
Well-Known Member
Looks about as addicted as i am to buying keyboards and keycaps lol
OzCocoLoco
Well-Known Member
Be cool to see what you think of it I've heard good things so hopefully it works well.
rayuki
Well-Known Member
FastBuds girl scout cookies. Getting phat at day 56 shouldn't be long to go now might not be enough time for the mammoth to do its magic but gonna give it a go lol
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giglewigle
Well-Known Member
hahaha lol im fucken ripped as fuck fuck YEAYA i had to cones so far and fuck me the expantion alone im fucken hign like im so high ima have a few more cones lol hands who thinka@ nugachino should brake out the good stuff and have a cone if any of use has weed blas
Ze this shit up im almost to high to go to maccas lol im gunna go soke 3 more and listen to some tunes FUCK YES @rubyfruit i owya nudes of my aunties fraend im gunna grow some dank ill get ger fucken ripped lol also im felli g it like in my face and my head its like co centraeted smasdedness to but like my head only lol blaze it up
cunts vi@gra lol still cant vealive thats a band word but i can say cunt strayalol
Ze this shit up im almost to high to go to maccas lol im gunna go soke 3 more and listen to some tunes FUCK YES @rubyfruit i owya nudes of my aunties fraend im gunna grow some dank ill get ger fucken ripped lol also im felli g it like in my face and my head its like co centraeted smasdedness to but like my head only lol blaze it up
cunts vi@gra lol still cant vealive thats a band word but i can say cunt strayalol