Yeah that's weird because I think me and you have the exact same ballasts. They have about 30 hours run time on them. Maybe mine are defective, maybe the box's were dropped or thrown by ups carriersPic taken under Phillips 3100k 315 cmh in sun system remote reflector run on the Galaxy ballast.
Which claims to be spec'd for the Phillips bulbs.
View attachment 4027022
With Galaxy run HPS in background.
View attachment 4027024 View attachment 4027025
Never saw any lines in pictures either way.
Okay so how big of a deal is that then if they aren't square wave? Is that really fucking me or just splitting hairs?No, that's a sign your ballasts aren't square wave units. The manufacturer cheaped out and you ended up with a less efficient system.
The flicker is a hallmark of a sinewave output, where square wave won't have the dark bars.
Yeah that's weird because I think me and you have the exact same ballasts. They have about 30 hours run time on them. Maybe mine are defective, maybe the box's were dropped or thrown by ups carriers
Galaxy s7 camera and no, just the 3 cmh's. The growers choice one doesn't show the lines alone so it's coming from the two galaxy lec ballasts. They say LFSW on them though. Philips 3100k bulbsHonestly there are cmh pics all over this site and none have lines. What camera are you using and is there a magnetic ballast in the room?
And what brand/temp bulb?
Dark bars are an indication that the lamp is dimming at a regular interval. If it's dimming, is not as bright, therefore you're losing light. If both ballasts from a given maker are doing it then it's the ballast design and not a defect.Okay so how big of a deal is that then if they aren't square wave? Is that really fucking me or just splitting hairs?
Cool your room not your lights. Putting glass between a bulb that produces that much UV is also working against yourself. I will never recommend air cooling lights.I am looking to buy some more 315cmh lamps.
I have been running the phantom 315 and it has been fine. I like remote ballasts and I will upgrade to cooled vents in the new flower room. I want to add 4 of these. I will be running 240v trying to keep the draw down. The lights will be on there own circuit. I want to know what ballasts are being used.
Can someone tell me if these are better ballasts? I am not looking to buy inexpensive equipment. I want safe efficient equipment.
Also can I cool 4 lamps with one fan? Run a Y connector with a 6" fan? They will be in a square pattern.
@DemonTrich @ttystikk @Bad Karma @MichiganMedGrower @Javadog @GroErr
@Carolina Dream'n my room looks similar tp yours and I do not run cooled lights now? Is it neccesary?
Unless it's a bulb that also produces uvb and uvc. The glass will filter those out, which is important, and still let a good amount of the uva through.Cool your room not your lights. Putting glass between a bulb that produces that much UV is also working against yourself. I will never recommend air cooling lights.
Irrelevant with LEC since the light can be kept close anyway.Unless it's a bulb that also produces uvb and uvc. The glass will filter those out, which is important, and still let a good amount of the uva through.
When a light is compared with and without being air cooled the air cooled light will pretty much always give you more light at the plants level because it can be kept closer to the plant.
Except for the uv. Unless it drops off before getting into the uvb than you'll be exposing your plants, and yourself, to harmful UV spectrum.Irrelevant with LEC since the light can be kept close anyway.
How would air cooling change the UV? anyway I got a huge Silver Mountain bud close to a non air cooled 315 and it is loving it.Except for the uv. Unless it drops off before getting into the uvb than you'll be exposing your plants, and yourself, to harmful UV spectrum.
UVB is good for cannabis plants. All UV is bad for people. No HID currently sold for growing plants makes a significant amount of UV. If you want to supplement UV, use T5 lamps designed for the purpose or you're just kidding yourself.Except for the uv. Unless it drops off before getting into the uvb than you'll be exposing your plants, and yourself, to harmful UV spectrum.
These are the Solis Tek 6k and 10k that I've been using. Definitely a significant amount of UV. Their cmh/lec are also pretty solid. Growers Choice also has some good options.UVB is good for cannabis plants. All UV is bad for people. No HID currently sold for growing plants makes a significant amount of UV. If you want to supplement UV, use T5 lamps designed for the purpose or you're just kidding yourself.
Would you bloom under 6K or 10K?These are the Solis Tek 6k and 10k that I've been using. Definitely a significant amount of UV. Their cmh/lec are also pretty solid. Growers Choice also has some good options.
The 10k is for finishing in the last couple of weeks. The 6k is for vegging and works well for flowering in a 1 to 1 ratio with hps. The 4k is more of an all purpose bulb but you'd still benefit from the extra red of an hps during flowering.Would you bloom under 6K or 10K?
100% disagree with you.Unless it's a bulb that also produces uvb and uvc. The glass will filter those out, which is important, and still let a good amount of the uva through.
When a light is compared with and without being air cooled the air cooled light will pretty much always give you more light at the plants level because it can be kept closer to the plant.