Club 315w lec

ilovetoskiatalta

Well-Known Member
I've been using Philips 330w CDM on a 400w Metal Halide Mag ballast, It reminds me of old floros when it switches on.
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/59300/MHS-232595.html

I also run 2 more 315w Philips mogul base on 2 Philips LFSW Ballasts.
I use a Canon Ti Rebel 3 to shoot pics of my grow, and never had problems with bands in my pics. I just set the appropriate light source setting in the cam and that's it.
So I can put this bulb in my old hydrofarm 400 mh magnetic ballast? @MarWan
 

theinhibitor

Well-Known Member
I've been plotting on running plasmas or lec with either de hps or led. I'm still holding out for the release of the 1000 watt lec from Growers Choice though. That could be a game changer.
IMO CMH is a waste - too much heat, worse than LEDs, and HPS beats it in flowering. CMH seems to really promote leaf growth which I think would be great for veg or 1st week of flower, but I mainly want flowers, all those leaves look great but shield the lower bud sites. Honestly, CMH seems best in vertical grows, but even Sedan mentioned that HPS is still king.
 

SchmoeJoe

Well-Known Member
IMO CMH is a waste - too much heat, worse than LEDs, and HPS beats it in flowering. CMH seems to really promote leaf growth which I think would be great for veg or 1st week of flower, but I mainly want flowers, all those leaves look great but shield the lower bud sites. Honestly, CMH seems best in vertical grows, but even Sedan mentioned that HPS is still king.
Have you ran lec/cmh? I've seen examples of 1.5 grams a watt and a pound a light. There's not going to be a whole lot of excess leaf if your getting a pound per 315 watt light. Not to mention my biggest, densest, heaviest buds always come out of my greenhouses under natural light and these are the closest thing to full spectrum peak season sun light you can get.
 
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theinhibitor

Well-Known Member
Have you ran lec/cmh? I've seen examples of 1.5 grams a watt and a pound a light. There's not going to be a whole lot of excess leaf if your getting a pound per 315 watt light. Not to mention my biggest, densest, heaviest buds always come out of my greenhouses under natural light and these are the closest thing to full spectrum peak season sun light you can get.
I have not ran LEC/CMH and dont plan to. Though it might have a better spectrum than HPS, I have not seen the evidence of the results.

I also dont really care for grams per wattage, as that mostly depends on strain. Too many variables involved in that number (tent, tent temp, reflector (or light density), water temp, PH, EC, feeding cycle, flushing, etc).

I think LED has every product beat on efficiency and spectrum, as it can be tailored rather simply, whereas metal halides and sodium lamps are at the beck and call of the resonance wavelengths.

I personally use only LED's and HPS. I now converted my veg into using only LED from T5's and love the response.

Here's a pic of DQ under the lights a few years back that I just found on my comp. Not sure what the yield was per watt, but it was definitely quite successful.
double_fun_op_hydrodensa_002.jpg

One thing I dislike about Metal Halides is that it makes the plants stringy and tall. I like cramming the nodes as close together as possible to get a condensed cola. HPS works great for that, and LED makes up for the spectrum deficiencies, at least that's how I look at it.

Oh and about the densest heaviest yields being in a greenhouse....have you ever seen the CO2 enhanced bud? I think that might have nature beat. Too much hassle for me though lol.
 

SchmoeJoe

Well-Known Member
I have not ran LEC/CMH and dont plan to. Though it might have a better spectrum than HPS, I have not seen the evidence of the results.

I also dont really care for grams per wattage, as that mostly depends on strain. Too many variables involved in that number (tent, tent temp, reflector (or light density), water temp, PH, EC, feeding cycle, flushing, etc).

I think LED has every product beat on efficiency and spectrum, as it can be tailored rather simply, whereas metal halides and sodium lamps are at the beck and call of the resonance wavelengths.

I personally use only LED's and HPS. I now converted my veg into using only LED from T5's and love the response.

Here's a pic of DQ under the lights a few years back that I just found on my comp. Not sure what the yield was per watt, but it was definitely quite successful.
View attachment 4027822

One thing I dislike about Metal Halides is that it makes the plants stringy and tall. I like cramming the nodes as close together as possible to get a condensed cola. HPS works great for that, and LED makes up for the spectrum deficiencies, at least that's how I look at it.

Oh and about the densest heaviest yields being in a greenhouse....have you ever seen the CO2 enhanced bud? I think that might have nature beat. Too much hassle for me though lol.
I do agree about grams per watt not being a definitive measurement. I only used that as a reference because leafy buds won't weigh near as much as buds with a lower leaf to calyx ratio.

You do realize that you can also use co2 in a greenhouse? Tb at makes that comment irrelevant, especially since I don't run co2 indoors or in greenhouses so the only variables are root mass and light spectrum. Since I also run large pots with nearly the soil indoors as in the greenhouses in confident the difference is in the light spectrum.

It's also important to understand how co2 supplementation can suppress ethylene production delaying ripening and reducing essential oils.

One last thing, maybe someone who actually has experience with lec can chime in here, I was under the impression that one of the advantages of lec was that they ran cooler than other hid.
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
I do agree about grams per watt not being a definitive measurement. I only used that as a reference because leafy buds won't weigh near as much as buds with a lower leaf to calyx ratio.

You do realize that you can also use co2 in a greenhouse? Tb at makes that comment irrelevant, especially since I don't run co2 indoors or in greenhouses so the only variables are root mass and light spectrum. Since I also run large pots with nearly the soil indoors as in the greenhouses in confident the difference is in the light spectrum.

It's also important to understand how co2 supplementation can suppress ethylene production delaying ripening and reducing essential oils.

One last thing, maybe someone who actually has experience with lec can chime in here, I was under the impression that one of the advantages of lec was that they ran cooler than other hid.
They do run much cooler. My 315 lec is cooler than my hps dimmed to 250 and my double ended 630w lec runs cooler than the hps @ 600 (se dimmable 600hps/mh)
 

MarWan

Well-Known Member
So I can put this bulb in my old hydrofarm 400 mh magnetic ballast? @MarWan
it works on old 400watt MH mag ballasts, the pulse start ones and probe ones.

"They offer the cost saving convenience of being usable with either Probe or Pulse Start magnetic ballasts, ANSI M59/O, M128/O, M135/O, M155/O, M165/O, M172/O, or C185/O."

^^ see those Nos, one of em should be written on the mag ballast.
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I've been using Philips 330w CDM on a 400w Metal Halide Mag ballast, It reminds me of old floros when it switches on.
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/59300/MHS-232595.html

I also run 2 more 315w Philips mogul base on 2 Philips LFSW Ballasts.
I use a Canon Ti Rebel 3 to shoot pics of my grow, and never had problems with bands in my pics. I just set the appropriate light source setting in the cam and that's it.
If the only ballast running is the mag, you should see bars. They won't show up if there are other lights running.
 

theinhibitor

Well-Known Member
I do agree about grams per watt not being a definitive measurement. I only used that as a reference because leafy buds won't weigh near as much as buds with a lower leaf to calyx ratio.

You do realize that you can also use co2 in a greenhouse? Tb at makes that comment irrelevant, especially since I don't run co2 indoors or in greenhouses so the only variables are root mass and light spectrum. Since I also run large pots with nearly the soil indoors as in the greenhouses in confident the difference is in the light spectrum.

It's also important to understand how co2 supplementation can suppress ethylene production delaying ripening and reducing essential oils.

One last thing, maybe someone who actually has experience with lec can chime in here, I was under the impression that one of the advantages of lec was that they ran cooler than other hid.
About the greenhouse, I was referring to beating nature. Its somewhat obvious, to any casual observer, that trying to beat the sun indoors is simply impossible from the standpoint that plants have evolved to use the sun for millennia.

Anyways, why CMH when LED? LED is the forefront tech right now. Platinum P600s are amazing, just alone they can produce massive colas.
 

MarWan

Well-Known Member
If the only ballast running is the mag, you should see bars. They won't show up if there are other lights running.
I used HPs & MH with mag ballasts at first, No bars. :)
bought a 330 CDM and replaced the MH, No Bars. :)
Found a site that sells a Philips LFSW ballast with 315w philips light bulb (mogul) for a good price and bought 2 and used them , also no bars. :)
I think it has to do with the camera setting, it has to match the frequency at which the light is pulsing.
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
I used HPs & MH with mag ballasts at first, No bars. :)
bought a 330 CDM and replaced the MH, No Bars. :)
Found a site that sells a Philips LFSW ballast with 315w philips light bulb (mogul) for a good price and bought 2 and used them , also no bars. :)
I think it has to do with the camera setting, it has to match the frequency at which the light is pulsing.
I'm guessing that's probably it. Because I tried out both separately and they both show bars. I'm sure there's a logical explanation, considering both show bars and not just one
 

MarWan

Well-Known Member
I'm guessing that's probably it. Because I tried out both separately and they both show bars. I'm sure there's a logical explanation, considering both show bars and not just one
Try borrowing a digital cam (preferably a DSLR) and experment with the light source setting.

edit:

upon further reading, "Light Source Setting" in cams has to do more with colors "white Balance".
http://support-th.canon-asia.com/contents/TH/EN/8201031500.html

The banding is caused by the shutter speed setting , sorry for my mistakes :)

"With a low shutter speed, the image is evenly exposed, even with the 50/60Hz pulse in the light intensity.
However, in very strong light, the camera selects a very high shutter speed.

The pulsing light, and the fast shutter speed can interfere.
The pulsing light will cause not all lines of the image to be exposed evenly.
You can see this in the image, as banding, or flickering.
It appears as a series of dark and light bands horizontally across the image."

they offer solutions to the problem

https://vicon-security.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/210734443-Avoiding-interference-banding-or-flickering-with-fluorescent-tube-lights-or-high-frequency-lights-
 
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ttystikk

Well-Known Member
About the greenhouse, I was referring to beating nature. Its somewhat obvious, to any casual observer, that trying to beat the sun indoors is simply impossible from the standpoint that plants have evolved to use the sun for millennia.

Anyways, why CMH when LED? LED is the forefront tech right now. Platinum P600s are amazing, just alone they can produce massive colas.
If this is the case, then explain why indoor product is consistently better than outdoor?
 

ttystikk

Well-Known Member
I used HPs & MH with mag ballasts at first, No bars. :)
bought a 330 CDM and replaced the MH, No Bars. :)
Found a site that sells a Philips LFSW ballast with 315w philips light bulb (mogul) for a good price and bought 2 and used them , also no bars. :)
I think it has to do with the camera setting, it has to match the frequency at which the light is pulsing.
No it doesn't have to match at all, it just has to scan across at a constant rate. Maybe your camera is too good, because it shows up just fine on my cellphone camera.
 

theinhibitor

Well-Known Member
If this is the case, then explain why indoor product is consistently better than outdoor?
I think you are missing two things, compadre.

1st is, I was responding to another member and another question in total. Where did you get the idea that I, who grows indoor almost solely, would think outdoor has better product?
2nd is, that was my point exactly - that indoor is superior because you can control everything - light cycle AKA season, temp, humidity, CO2, feeding, etc. He was just talking about the sun though, which yes, you cant beat the sun. #1 cannabis producer (in pounds) in CA uses hydroponics in greenhouses, with timed lights for mimicking other seasons so he can grow all year round. Some thousand hectares in total.
 

Javadog

Well-Known Member
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