FROST: general rules from experience....

stsin

Well-Known Member
Hey all, saw the comments about getaway mountain, has anyone grown out their gear and actually had them tested in a legal state? (e.g. early finish is nice, but how strong are they? Brain twister seems good for example :) ) I've been spoiled by the last few falls in my northern lat and have gotten into the habit of growing ridiculously long flowering sativas that prefer to be cut around election day. This year with pretty much consistently 20deg below average temps mother nature has gotten back at me the low around 6am on sunday morning will be *24F*. I could add a plastic sheet draped across to cover them and run heated home air out of the window that's up against the garden, but as all of my girls are 11-13 feet tall stuffed in an ~200sqft fenced area off the house and I can't fly, that's not really easily done... (could throw a 2x4 onto the house just above or below the second story window then wrap sheeting around it that then drapes across is the best I can do, but that's far and away not fully enclosed.) So I'm planning on cutting them 3-ish weeks early tomorrow (Pout!) They're pretty damn protected from the sides.... so I'm still toying with finding a huge tarp and tossing that on top of them and hoping for the best, but.... well, it's better to have an early harvest (all trics are milky that I've been able to see, so at the least they'll be nice head highs) than to have a ruined harvest... Anyone want to try to convince me that adding a tarp/covering and piping house air into a mostly open garden will be enough to counter an hour or so of 24F weather (they've been fine to 30F at least so far...) Edit: just smoked some of the plant (red headed stranger x indiana bubble gum which I now call redneck bubble gum) I took down on the 11th, to give the girl next to it some extra light / test the high. I'm fairly happy with it so I think I'll be fine if not thrilled by removing (at least) all of these the tops and drying them tomorrow... Though obsessively looking at the weather channel, it looks like aside from the low of now 25F, the weather seems fine for the next 10 days... I might push it, and immediately harvest if anything looks dead on the branch... the ground won't freeze yet (and I can water with warm water) so my only concerns are the buds... (edit #2: decided that cutting the tops would be the worst case scenario as it would expose the main stems to the full effect of the cold. So I added 3" of mulch and will water with ~ 80F molasses water before the low hits then will check the plants for signs of death, my thoughts are that if it does die, I'll catch it w/n 12 hours which is not really any different than trimming them, or worst case scenario, any worse than trimming them after they've dried as some do. Will update with my results in a new post come actual harvest.)
 
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too larry

Well-Known Member
I
I have found a product on amazon while looking for freeze/frost protection cloth I am going to order and give a shot.

It is called Anti-Stress 2000 "sounds corny I know lol", but has great reviews not only on Amazon but during a google search as well.

Here is the link, looks promising!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00YQH9HDY/ref=pd_aw_vtph_86_tr_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MQ11213SEFZ3XB1W8Z78#nav-search-keywords
I have a friend in the tropical plant green house business, and he gave me some frost cloth for my spring crop this past year. It can be laid across the plant. Some of them can't touch, so that was nice. I still had some frost damage, but got through two nights of 25F with it.

The one drawback is the cloth is white. I went out at dusk and daylight for two days. Would be a bitch if you had lots of frosts.
 
Lots of strains of cannabis can handle a pretty strong frost. I've had plants handle frosts as low as 28 degrees F without killing the plant.

Things to consider, some strains are more sensitive to frost than others, if they are in pots this can make them more sensitive.

Sativa strains tend to be more sensitive to frost than Indicas. Indicas and Indica dominant hybrids are capable of handling frosts as low as 28F. but there have been reports of sativas handling frosts just as well.

I'll leave this sticky open to discussion for other experienced users to post their experiences, I will compile it into this. I felt this was needed as this question gets asked a lot when a frost comes by.


you can protect the plants if they are of manageable size or if you are handy enough to build a sturdy setup.

this can be as basic as a pvc greenhouse with plastic wrapped around, or even sheets if properly secured to not touch the plants... or as large as a full car port with greenhouse grade plastic secured.


how much the temperature rises the next day also tends to define how the plant deals with the frost. if it frosts and it rises up to 65 degrees+ with sun in the daytime, the plant is much more likely to take the frost and keep growing vs a plant that takes a hard frost and sees a 45 degree day with clouds....


cooler temperatures (55-40 degrees F) will definitely bring out some purpling in some strains, and cause flowering to speed up, nights that dip into the 35F zone boost this even more, bringing out even more color.

sorry for the organization of this thread, guess I'm too much of a stoner after all ;)
Hey if your still alive I'm wondering about low temps affecting growth. U say that 35 degrees helps a plant to flower. I was under the impression that growth virtually stops under 50 deg f.?
 

stsin

Well-Known Member
Hey if your still alive I'm wondering about low temps affecting growth. U say that 35 degrees helps a plant to flower. I was under the impression that growth virtually stops under 50 deg f.?
Until he comes back, I'll sound off: the reason it "helps a plant to flower" is that the aspects of the cana flower that we like are both an attractant (bring me your pollen bugs!) and a defense against tissue damage due to cold. Also, growth (flower development, veg growth, etc) definitely doesn't stop at 50F when you grow outside (indoor plants are a different story as I suspect the problem is more the differential between the highs and lows, or it might be about how resinous your plants are..) Unfortunately most of what is known about cana gardening comes from people who aren't really botanists or traditional farmers so we get a lot of wives tales with our knowledge downloads ;) As legalization takes hold we should get a much wider viewpoint about the ins and outs of our favorite flower, also due to interbreeding and what not, each plant is also somewhat unique so there aren't really hard and fast rules (aside from mostly leave them the fuck alone ;) )
 

too larry

Well-Known Member
Hey if your still alive I'm wondering about low temps affecting growth. U say that 35 degrees helps a plant to flower. I was under the impression that growth virtually stops under 50 deg f.?
I have 10 little plants out now in NW Florida. Just over a month old. And we have lows in the 30's forecast for Monday morning. I'm sure it will tax them. It's non-optimal for young plants especially to get a cold snap. It will slow them down. But you just have to roll with it. Growing through the winter, you just have to count on some losses. Grow 2-3 times what you think you need, then if half of them make it, you will have extra.
 
I have 10 little plants out now in NW Florida. Just over a month old. And we have lows in the 30's forecast for Monday morning. I'm sure it will tax them. It's non-optimal for young plants especially to get a cold snap. It will slow them down. But you just have to roll with it. Growing through the winter, you just have to count on some losses. Grow 2-3 times what you think you need, then if half of them make it, you will have extra.
I've got a homemade small passive solar greenhouse about 70 square feet stuffed with about 100 clear jugs of water (old milk jugs) holding some BTU's for me. I've also got a floor oil heater that I can put in with them. The only thing with the oil heater is the electrical costs especially since the majority of the heat ends up outside of the greenhouse. But regardless of that I'd run it day and night if need be these last few weeks. My only concern is......... should I or should I not run the heaters and keep the girls above 50 degrees Fahrenheit at least during the day? Or is 40-48 degree weather in the greenhouse with no heaters gonna be enough to allow enough growth these last 2-3 weeks to finish?
 
Until he comes back, I'll sound off: the reason it "helps a plant to flower" is that the aspects of the cana flower that we like are both an attractant (bring me your pollen bugs!) and a defense against tissue damage due to cold. Also, growth (flower development, veg growth, etc) definitely doesn't stop at 50F when you grow outside (indoor plants are a different story as I suspect the problem is more the differential between the highs and lows, or it might be about how resinous your plants are..) Unfortunately most of what is known about cana gardening comes from people who aren't really botanists or traditional farmers so we get a lot of wives tales with our knowledge downloads ;) As legalization takes hold we should get a much wider viewpoint about the ins and outs of our favorite flower, also due to interbreeding and what not, each plant is also somewhat unique so there aren't really hard and fast rules (aside from mostly leave them the fuck alone ;) )
Excellent post.
 

too larry

Well-Known Member
I've got a homemade small passive solar greenhouse about 70 square feet stuffed with about 100 clear jugs of water (old milk jugs) holding some BTU's for me. I've also got a floor oil heater that I can put in with them. The only thing with the oil heater is the electrical costs especially since the majority of the heat ends up outside of the greenhouse. But regardless of that I'd run it day and night if need be these last few weeks. My only concern is......... should I or should I not run the heaters and keep the girls above 50 degrees Fahrenheit at least during the day? Or is 40-48 degree weather in the greenhouse with no heaters gonna be enough to allow enough growth these last 2-3 weeks to finish?
I would only run the heaters if it got down into the 30's. Have you checked the inside temp against the outside temp? Just before daylight is your coldest time, so see what it is inside. During the day you should be 10-15 degrees warmer without adding any heat. It's just a questions of how long it holds the heat.
 
I would only run the heaters if it got down into the 30's. Have you checked the inside temp against the outside temp? Just before daylight is your coldest time, so see what it is inside. During the day you should be 10-15 degrees warmer without adding any heat. It's just a questions of how long it holds the heat.
I have checked the difference. Here's an example..... from 5am to 8am the temp was 30 deg F. but the "real feel" was 28 deg. The coldest it got in there was 33.9 degrees. So it looks like about a 6 deg difference. But this will change when these cold temps are sustained longer throughout the nights going forward. Daytime is a much greater difference in temps due to the suns rays. On an 80 degree day you can get temps peaking at 125-130 inside. I think the highest I hit inside this summer was about 133 degrees Fahrenheit. But this occurs when the sun is at its peak.
 

too larry

Well-Known Member
Fill like temps {Heat Index} include wind and humidity. It is what it feels like to people and other mammals. For example higher winds will pull the layer of heat away from mammals, making for a low heat index. This has nothing to do with plants {or water pipes}. It was a 4 degree dif. So not the best at holding heat. But the actual frost itself does damage to the plants. Just keeping them frost free will help, even if they do get down to freezing. With only 2 more weeks to go, run your heater if you need to. But make sure you keep an eye peeled for PM and rot. {they do call it relative humidity after all}
 
I
Fill like temps {Heat Index} include wind and humidity. It is what it feels like to people and other mammals. For example higher winds will pull the layer of heat away from mammals, making for a low heat index. This has nothing to do with plants {or water pipes}. It was a 4 degree dif. So not the best at holding heat. But the actual frost itself does damage to the plants. Just keeping them frost free will help, even if they do get down to freezing. With only 2 more weeks to go, run your heater if you need to. But make sure you keep an eye peeled for PM and rot. {they do call it relative humidity after all}
interesting. I'm with you. I think I just keep doing what I'm doing and run the heater as necessary. On the 10 day forecast most temps will be highs in low to mid 50's with November 6th expected to be 57 degrees. So I just have to fade a few hours here and there these next two weeks I think.
 

stsin

Well-Known Member
...I've been spoiled by the last few falls in my northern lat and have gotten into the habit of growing ridiculously long flowering sativas that prefer to be cut around election day. This year with pretty much consistently 20deg below average temps mother nature has gotten back at me the low around 6am on sunday morning will be *24F*.... I added 3" of mulch and will water with ~ 80F molasses water before the low hits...Will update with my results in a new post come actual harvest.)
As promised, everything is harvested, dried, and sampled (unfortunately the breeder was correct, redneck bubblegum while taste and effects reminiscent of actual IU bubble gum, isn't the haze fire I was hoping for in the cross.) There was absolutely no quality difference between this years multiple freezes (ended up with them experiencing about 14 nights of low temps ranging from 22 to 30) and the previous year's lack of freeze. For the lows below ~28F I watered a few hours before the low hit with warm water (in my case, mixed with molasses.) But other than that and the mulch around the bases, there were no precautions taken with the plants. One did turn a lovely shade of purple, but that's purely aesthetic and is pretty standard. Basically, don't freak out, do what you can, but in the end these plants are surprisingly hearty as they tolerate being grown in an actual closet with a bulb, if they're in the dirt leave them be they'll most likely be fine, if they're not THEN freak out and harvest ;) I'm still interested in people's results with getaway mountain's strains. Hope everyone is enjoying the fruits of their harvests.
 

OldPork

Well-Known Member
From where did you procure those nice reflective grow bags? I imagine the roots stay cooler with them.
 

RetiredGuerilla

Well-Known Member
From where did you procure those nice reflective grow bags? I imagine the roots stay cooler with them.
That's why I always LST outdoors. I was using fish hooks and clear fishing line to tie my plants down before I ever heard the term LST. It's been around a long time. A low canopy 3 feet off the ground gives you a lot of options when dealing with frost.
 

Downinthedirt

Active Member
Temp's got down to 27 this past week on Tues and down to 29 Thursday..I have 18 crystal out and 2 Bruce banner...I covered all up but 3 crystal tuesday and it never fazed them and didn't realize it was gonna frost again Thursday and never covered any up and never fazed them at all..burned the hell outta my grape vines but not my girls...so the crystal is a super strong strain and I guess so is bruce banner
 

too larry

Well-Known Member
Temp's got down to 27 this past week on Tues and down to 29 Thursday..I have 18 crystal out and 2 Bruce banner...I covered all up but 3 crystal tuesday and it never fazed them and didn't realize it was gonna frost again Thursday and never covered any up and never fazed them at all..burned the hell outta my grape vines but not my girls...so the crystal is a super strong strain and I guess so is bruce banner
I lost my spring crop this year {here in NW Florida} when we had two nights down to 16F. I had too many, in too open of a place to cover.
 
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