60w Led Lights As Supplimenta Lighting

[Randomblame]

You don't need to add calcium all the time. And I don't think Ca-pills will react with the vinegar as long as you don't mix both directly. Make sure you have add anything you want, then check ph. If it's to high use 1-2 drops of vinegar per litre(depending on your plain water) then measure PH again. 6,2-6,8 is okay for a organic soil mix.
You will need a ph checker if you add vinegar to reduce the ph.
I do not recommend to re-pot her, too late for my taste, but drill a few holes should be possible. Maybe with a little help from a friend.
Those molasses based all-in-one fertilizers usually have a good amount of rockdust in it, because molasses is only N+K.
You can recognize it by the fine "gray sand" that collects at the bottom of your watering can.
That's why you always have to stir it thoroughly.

 

[GreenLogician]

They look cool, but if the specs are correct... 15w and 900 lumens would make them pretty terrible.

I measured them as 4.8w at the wall, is that better, assuming they got their lumen measurement right?
Edit: ya that would be 187.5 lumens/watt, sounds almost too good to be true

 

[JSheeze]

You don't need to add calcium all the time. And I don't think Ca-pills will react with the vinegar as long as you don't mix both directly. Make sure you have add anything you want, then check ph. If it's to high use 1-2 drops of vinegar per litre(depending on your plain water) then measure PH again. 6,2-6,8 is okay for a organic soil mix.
You will need a ph checker if you add vinegar to reduce the ph.
I do not recommend to re-pot her, too late for my taste, but drill a few holes should be possible. Maybe with a little help from a friend.
Those molasses based all-in-one fertilizers usually have a good amount of rockdust in it, because molasses is only N+K.
You can recognize it by the fine "gray sand" that collects at the bottom of your watering can.
That's why you always have to stir it thoroughly.

Word, thanks, she's gonna love life a lil more soon haha

 

[JSheeze]

Ok so I took the globes totally off, I thought it was going to be a pain in the ass trimming them all down, but after they had been on and running for awhile I found just squeezing opposite sides of the globes made them just peel/snap off real easy. That compound that glues them to the base gets elasticy with heat.


Anyways, anyone have any info on why the 2 in the middle (Sunthin 40w 2700k) look lighter in color compared to the 6 on the outside (TIWIN 11w 2700k)?? I heard something about some brands adding phosphors or something?? Could the spacing be making some sort of optical illusion? Lastly, anyone have any data regarding yield in terms of g/w for these 100lm/w household LED’s??

 

[Randomblame]

Good job!
Looks better to me and the light is more distributed.
There is allways a difference between different diodes.
It's most likely because they are driven a bit harder and it's another typ of diodes. Maybe one is 2650°k and the other is 2850°k, both would be called 2700°k or warmwhite.
Warmwhite is 2700-3500°k, daywhite is 4000-5700°k, and coolwhite is 5800-7000°k, above 7000-20.000k is called actinic white and is mostly used by aquarium owners.
Each manufacturer have it's own phosphor-mix and therefor it looks a little different.

All white LED's have a phosphor coating, because they are based on blue LED's. Remove the phosphor layer and you got a blue LED.

 

[Randomblame]

I measured them as 4.8w at the wall, is that better, assuming they got their lumen measurement right?
Edit: ya that would be 187.5 lumens/watt, sounds almost too good to be true

Yepp, too good to be true! They must use Samsungs top bins..!
Nope, these Epiled smd5630 are usually 120lm/w if driven low(60mA/0,2w) and 100lm/w when driven harder(150mA/0,5w). Count the number of diodes and you will get an idea how hard they are driven in this spotlights.
I don't know the # for their red and blue diodes but they would get the same current like the white ones.

 

[JSheeze]

Each manufacturer have it's own phosphor-mix and therefor it looks a little different.

All white LED's have a phosphor coating, because they are based on blue LED's. Remove the phosphor layer and you got a blue LED.

Very interesting, I did not know. What's the story on brands? After the globe is pooped off, what are some of the better producers? Any brand consistently beating others in intensity while keeping a competitive price?

 

[Dave455]

Thanks for the reply man, I was keeping the globes on those 2 to help disperse the 5000k light more evenly, but what the hell I'll cut em off haha, been debating that one for a while. You think she needs any extra K? Was gonna try to add a lil potash to the water to.. just got my soil pH meter, was a cheapy, but says my soil is around 7.5. Recommend adding lemon juice to water to try to help that out??

white vinegar lowers

 

[JSheeze]

...
BTW, cheap PPM and PH-meters are available on e3ay for only ~5$(ppm) and 8$(ph). Your "earth checker" seems to be one of the cheap greenish all-in-one units with 2 long spikes, yes? If so, it's not as precise as you think. Better buy real PH/PPM meters and do not waste your money for such toys.

Lol how did you know!? Hahahaha yep, one of those green long spike fuckers, I'll do myself a favor and pick up some better tools. Is there a difference between soil pH meters and aqueous pH meters?? Which do you recommend? PPM meter is obviously only for aqueous measuring? Water run off and pre feed checker??

 

[Randomblame]

Hehe, my sister has a few of this ugly soil checkers for her houseplants in the windowsill, and although she say, they're all in the same soil, they all point to something else, LOL.
I'll tell you which ones I use. Can not see a reason to throw out 50$ for a f****** Hanna PH-Checker, which BTW needs up to 5 minutes to stabilize because of the old tech.

I prefer Xiaomi's TDS-Meter(pic.1), because it's quiet accurate, nice and small, really fast and well made and needs not much juice. Use it since 2 years now with their first pair of AG13/LR44 button cells. You can get it for only 6,92$.
E3ay, Part-No. 142517787433(just type in the search, enter)

My PH-Meter is a no-name product (7,52$) but It works very fast and takes just 20sec. to stabilize.
It is accurate to 2 decimal places and has an automatic 2 point calibration. And it needs also only 2 AG13/LR44 button cells.
Part-No.: 272686302605

It is possible that the items will not be shipped to your country, but then you will easily find another supplier who does it and asks for about the same price.

If you want a good "soil-monitor", I recommend Xiaomi's "Flower Care" (last 2 pics.).
Simply put it in the soil, install the associated app and pair both via bluetooth. Then you can read out PH, PPM, temps, water and light intensity.
Unfortunately, it is useless for the latter, as it is completely overshadowed when plugged in the soil/pots, but as long as the babies are small, that works well too.

You can get it for ~10-12$ on Alibaba. E3ay and Amaz0n are more costly, 15-20$. But do not forget to ask for the one which works in your country, they are different versions available.

 

[Randomblame]

Very interesting, I did not know. What's the story on brands? After the pooped off, what are some of the better producers? Any brand consistently beating others in intensity while keeping a competitive price?

For discret 3-5w diodes Osram, Nichia and Cree, for SMD's like 5630, 3030(surface mounted device) Samsung and Osram. Best bulbs currently are probably Osrams 20 and 25watters. Unfortunately, it is difficult to tell from the outside which ones are used because they are very small and use the same footprints.

 

[It's not oregano]

Lastly, anyone have any data regarding yield in terms of g/w for these 100lm/w household LED’s??

I just ran two Mephisto sour liver autos under 154w of household bulbs, between 12-15w each depending on brand and all bulbs gave 1500lm each, so roughly 100lm/w each, some slightly higher. I got 209 dry total so 1.35 gpw

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-vaults-sour-livers-auto-comparative-grow-in-association-with-mephisto-genetics.935115/page-23#post-13846026 (about halfway down the page)

 

[JSheeze]

I just ran two Mephisto sour liver autos under 154w of household bulbs, between 12-15w each depending on brand and all bulbs gave 1500lm each, so roughly 100lm/w each, some slightly higher. I got 209 dry total so 1.35 gpw

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-vaults-sour-livers-auto-comparative-grow-in-association-with-mephisto-genetics.935115/page-23#post-13846026 (about halfway down the page)

What brand were your 12w 1500lm? Were you only able to find it in a certain colortemp? I'm trying to find some 120lm/w households but don't wanna spend dumb money either

* I'll be honest I didn't read the entire thread but it looked like you had your lights about 6" from the tips of the tops?

 

[JSheeze]

For discret 3-5w diodes Osram, Nichia and Cree, for SMD's like 5630, 3030(surface mounted device) Samsung and Osram. Best bulbs currently are probably Osrams 20 and 25watters. Unfortunately, it is difficult to tell from the outside which ones are used because they are very small and use the same footprints.

Osram the same as Sylvania?

 

[It's not oregano]

What brand were your 12w 1500lm? Were you only able to find it in a certain colortemp? I'm trying to find some 120lm/w households but don't wanna spend dumb money either

* I'll be honest I didn't read the entire thread but it looked like you had your lights about 6" from the tips of the tops?

They were from a uk shop called Home Bargains. They were £2.99 and had 2700k and 6500k in bayonet and screw in, so i got half a dozen 6500k for first week or so of veg, then add the 2700's then during flower swap the 6500 so i have 12x 2700.
I think i was down to about 3-4" near end of grow - not through choice, I couldn't get the lights any higher as i only have a 32" high cabinet. I have actually gone past the bulbs with one photo plant grow - put the globes back on and had no real burning.
If you are US / Canadian there is a thread called "got my GE brightsticks" in the led sub forum where several pepple have used bulbs from stores over there which might help you find some.
Good luck

 

[JSheeze]

Hehe, my sister has a few of this ugly soil checkers for her houseplants in the windowsill, and although she say, they're all in the same soil, they all point to something else, LOL.
I'll tell you which ones I use. Can not see a reason to throw out 50$ for a f****** Hanna PH-Checker, which BTW needs up to 5 minutes to stabilize because of the old tech.

I prefer Xiaomi's TDS-Meter(pic.1), because it's quiet accurate, nice and small, really fast and well made and needs not much juice. Use it since 2 years now with their first pair of AG13/LR44 button cells. You can get it for only 6,92$.
E3ay, Part-No. 142517787433(just type in the search, enter)

My PH-Meter is a no-name product (7,52$) but It works very fast and takes just 20sec. to stabilize.
It is accurate to 2 decimal places and has an automatic 2 point calibration. And it needs also only 2 AG13/LR44 button cells.
Part-No.: 272686302605

It is possible that the items will not be shipped to your country, but then you will easily find another supplier who does it and asks for about the same price.

If you want a good "soil-monitor", I recommend Xiaomi's "Flower Care" (last 2 pics.).
Simply put it in the soil, install the associated app and pair both via bluetooth. Then you can read out PH, PPM, temps, water and light intensity.
Unfortunately, it is useless for the latter, as it is completely overshadowed when plugged in the soil/pots, but as long as the babies are small, that works well too.

You can get it for ~10-12$ on Alibaba. E3ay and Amaz0n are more costly, 15-20$. But do not forget to ask for the one which works in your country, they are different versions available.

I looked at the Xiaomi soil monitor, but couldn't see that it monitored pH and didn't do TDS the way I was anticipating. Looked like it had some arbitrary "bad-good", "fertility" meter? Along with the light, temp, and moisture reading you were talking about? Idk, I wanted to pull the trigger but was wavering and decided on the cheaper route you suggested.

Found both the pH meter, & PPM meter from Newegg.com for <$8.50 including shipping! Curious how the monster green spike and the digital will track, will update with results when it arrives.

 

[JSheeze]

I just ran two Mephisto sour liver autos under 154w of household bulbs, between 12-15w each depending on brand and all bulbs gave 1500lm each, so roughly 100lm/w each, some slightly higher. I got 209 dry total so 1.35 gpw

https://www.rollitup.org/t/the-vaults-sour-livers-auto-comparative-grow-in-association-with-mephisto-genetics.935115/page-23#post-13846026 (about halfway down the page)

Was that approx 12 lights then (6/lady)? How big was your growing surface area? Do you think having 2 plants take up your canopy area affected your yield (positively, negatively, neutral) vs the same canopy area utilized but using a different number of ladies, eg. 1, 2, 3, 4??? I liked your grow and been thinking about designing a new light for a single lady scrog 2'x2'. I've heard that > 7200lm/sq ft is ideal (not sure if they were referencing cfls though, or all lights). I was thinking 9 x Sunthin 40w (4000lm) in a [(3 light) x (3 light)] grid to cover a 2'x2' (4sq ft) canopy. 36,000lm (2700k) divided by 4sq ft is 9000lm/sq ft & 360watts. I feel like that is quite a bit of light even though it's only 9k/. I've seen journals where they are using 160lm/w COBs and people were commenting about how much light this guy had, but when you did the math it was only 7k/ but his ladies looked nice. So is 9k/ Overkill? What were you at (light saturation) when you hit your 1.35g/w? Is that typical for you (give or take for different strains)? When you had that success have you tried to continue with the same process? Grown any different strains under your households? Lol I know a shit load of questions, thanks ahead of time haha

 

[Randomblame]

How much is such a 40w bulb?

These are 4 double row strips in 4000°k/154lm/w and each comes with it's own driver. You need only an alu sheet, no heatsinks, nothing else, 115w/51$. They have also 3000°k but currently not available. But many top grower here use 4000°k in flowering.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-TCI-Linear-LED-strip-board-23W-4000K-3540lm-154lm-W-CRI80-Drivers-included/222366306121?hash=item33c6108f49:g:BmYAAOSw2xRYa8YX

 

[JSheeze]

How much is such a 40w bulb?

These are 4 double row strips in 4000°k/154lm/w and each comes with it's own driver. You need only an alu sheet, no heatsinks, nothing else, 115w/51$. They have also 3000°k but currently not available. But many top grower here use 4000°k in flowering.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-TCI-Linear-LED-strip-board-23W-4000K-3540lm-154lm-W-CRI80-Drivers-included/222366306121?hash=item33c6108f49:g:BmYAAOSw2xRYa8YX

Can you verify these specs? 154lm/w? If so I'll have to look into these a little more.


(115w) x (154 lm/w)
= 17,710 lm

(17,710 lm) / $51.00
= 348.25 lm/$1

I've been getting these Sunthin(s) 40w in a 3-pack and brand new they're $42.00, but I just bought some last night, and they were used? For $26? Curious what condition they'll be in, we'll see..


(40w) x (3 lights) x (4000 lm/light)
= 12,000 lm

(12,000 lm) / ($42)
= 285.7 lm/$1

(12,000 lm) / ($26)
= 461.54 lm/$1


**
I think they are more like 110 lm/w with the cover popped off...
**


(40w) x (3) x (110 lm/w)
= 13,200 lm

(13,200 lm) / ($42)
= 314.25 lm/$1

(13,200 lm) / ($26)
= 507.69 lm/$1

anyone have any info regarding the diff between globe on vs globe off and lm/w??

 

[JSheeze]

But many top grower here use 4000°k in flowering.

I've been trying to find info on this.. why only 4000k? Why not 4400k? Is a consensus beginning to develop that the 2700k is not as good as the 4000k/4400k? Is the 2700k a grandfathered idea originating from when most everything was HPS? I remember reading posts just utterly trashing >4000k, saying the plant can't use that spectrum at all. The wavelength math has 2700k way off any absorption ranges that I've researched, but I've been wondering if the wavelength is doubled or tripled that it would have the same effect but just in 2x or 3x plus or negative??? Wavelength is measured from peak to peak or trough to trough right? So if it was exactly twice as many peaks per time, then you'd be getting twice as much? Or if it was half the speed, itd be absorbing 1/2 the peaks, idk just trying to wrap my head around why 2700k works when it's not in the plant range that I've researched. The reason I'm on this 2x, 3x, 1/2, stuff is I think I found a relationship between the known WV (445, 665, ect) that put 2700k or the low kelvintemp WV in a 2x, or 3x or 1/3 proportionality. I can't remember and I'm lazy and sick of doing math and writing at the moment, so if you know if anything blab it out haha