Is this a russet mite?

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
Usually what happens with herms is a light leak in flower. Light, even a small amount, can sneak in during lights out and it confuses the plant.

In flower you are 12 on and 12 off. This is when light leaks can cause problems - veg is not an issue. In veg you can go 18 on and 6 off or 24 hours on.

This one is beyond my expertise. Maybe post pics in a new thread asking if it is herm and possible reasons.

Bugs and spray, as far as I know, would not cause that. Did they come from seed or clones?

You may want to look at them later tonight or tomorrow. I would guess you probably killed the mites. Neem is supposed to kill the eggs. One or more of those essential oils may also get the eggs.

The thing is, as good as you did you job, if you did not get everyone - they can come back later. After this harvest - lots of spraying in the room and cleaning.

The Forbid stays in the leaves for about 25 days so you should probably be fine for now. The Nuke Em can be used up to harvest day so you keep that in reserve. I would probably do Forbid again 14 days after your first spraying.

When are your predator bugs coming?
They came from seed. Alien rift and malibu pie from ocean grown genetics.

I'll deffinitely do another oil spray, probably Saturday. And ill take that advice and spray once more with the forbid.

When I scoped the day before yesterday and found the massive amounts of broad mites, I didn't notice any movement. But it was a little tough to get a clear view because of all the hairs on the main stalk that they were underneath.

I'll be sure to clean real thoroughly after the plants are finished. I plan on even taking all the panda film down and cleaning underneath it.

I'll have to read into the predatory mites again from a few pages back, originally I didn't like the idea of releasing any mites on to my plants but thinking about it yesterday, it's a must. Whatever it takes to keep the broads at bay, even if that means pouring a bunch of predatory mites over top of my plants. If I do another forbid spray in 9 days then how soon after that would it be safe to release the predatory mites?
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
They came from seed. Alien rift and malibu pie from ocean grown genetics.

I'll deffinitely do another oil spray, probably Saturday. And ill take that advice and spray once more with the forbid.

When I scoped the day before yesterday and found the massive amounts of broad mites, I didn't notice any movement. But it was a little tough to get a clear view because of all the hairs on the main stalk that they were underneath.

I'll be sure to clean real thoroughly after the plants are finished. I plan on even taking all the panda film down and cleaning underneath it.

I'll have to read into the predatory mites again from a few pages back, originally I didn't like the idea of releasing any mites on to my plants but thinking about it yesterday, it's a must. Whatever it takes to keep the broads at bay, even if that means pouring a bunch of predatory mites over top of my plants. If I do another forbid spray in 9 days then how soon after that would it be safe to release the predatory mites?
It could be the seeds were not all feminized. take picks and post on one of the forums on that topic.

You can release them probably a day after forbid. You have to get the timing right on mites because they can probably sit in the fridge for as day or so. BTW - lady bugs are only good for aphids. Predator mites can be so tricky because temp and humidity plus they can take time to get established. I can get them locally so it saves on shipping and transport issues.

They might be dead do to no movement. I know spider mites life cycle better than russets. Forbid 4f is pretty much bullet proof with spider mites. If used properly - Forbid handles them no problem. Less is known about Russets because they are so small. I fought them with Forbid and essential oils, soaps, etc and pretty much beat them. They did stunt growth.

When this is all said and done - when you go to harvest you can rinse the buds and plants to clean things off.
Jorge Cervantes aka George Salem uses a little hydrogen peroxide with luke warm water. Make sure to hang with a fan on them to dry. Mold and mildew are not good to smoke.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=jorge+cervantes+rinsing+after+harvest
 

JSheeze

Well-Known Member
I c


I cannot get the pics to enlarge. It looks like a brown vein in picture #3 is russet mites and the healthy one below that looks fine.

If you have peppermint essential oil then add about 9 to 10 drops per gallon of water and add 3 drops of Dawn dish soap. If you can get Ivory white dish soap ($2.87 at Wal Mart for a big bottle) or Fels Naptha Soap then add it to a one gallon sprayer and shake. Use those instead of Dawn.
You can get a 16 oz bottle of Canola oil at Wal Mart for $1.00. Add a half a teaspoon or a little less to the mix.

Spray under all the leaves then turn the lights off. Let sit for 45 mins to 60 minutes then turn fans on.

I cannot understand people who try to grow MMJ. You tell them to turn the lights off to avoid the lights burning the leaves and you get excuses. They think they might have mites and they drag their feet spraying for mites. What is the old saying about people being stupid and they shoot first and ask questions later? When dealing with mites - shoot first and ask questions later.

The mites don't give a shit - they are destroying the plants while supposed growers drag their feet in doing something. Spraying will not hurt the plants. All growers should have a $9 bottle of Neem oil, if not, then do something else.

If you do not have $9 then make some Fels Naptha Soap on the detergent aisle in every store for a $1 plus $1 for a chees grater at Dollar Tree and a jar. See below. You have to grate it, add water and heat the water up. If you leave it in the sun it will probably get hot enough. This is the soap great grandma used to get stains out and wash clothes. It will not harm your plants but it will seriously f**k up mites.

http://www.hansenfamilyfarm.com/blog/make-your-own-non-toxic-insecticidal-spray-soap

I trained some guy on a growing system. The system was taught to me that cost me some serious money.
It is consistent and as the dude who taught me said - "I could teach a retard this." I showed this younger guy what to do - I told him he needs to drip 5 to 6 times a night because it is a coco mix. I told him over and over and over. His yield is not what it should be and my guess is he under watered.

Powdery Mildew? Tea Tree Oil, Clove Oil and Rosemary Oil. Rosemary will also kill mites. Clove may help kill mites. tea Tree not sure - I would add rosemary, peppermint or lavender with the Tea Tree.

Sorry if I sound like a prick but I have seen too many videos on you tube with spider mite webs and lazy people with dirty grows. One guy holds himself out to be a talented grower. He takes a hedge trimmer and electric chain saw and cuts down a whole room of plants because he or his friends were just lazy.

Spider mites or Russets will jump all over your shit in a few hours if you are not paying attention. They are relentless little pricks. I have spent countless hours on the web, youtube, asking people, going to stores, reading probably every mites spray bottle you can think of to battle these little shits.
Thanks for the advice, didn't sound too dickish to me lol
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
It could be the seeds were not all feminized. take picks and post on one of the forums on that topic.

You can release them probably a day after forbid. You have to get the timing right on mites because they can probably sit in the fridge for as day or so. BTW - lady bugs are only good for aphids. Predator mites can be so tricky because temp and humidity plus they can take time to get established. I can get them locally so it saves on shipping and transport issues.

They might be dead do to no movement. I know spider mites life cycle better than russets. Forbid 4f is pretty much bullet proof with spider mites. If used properly - Forbid handles them no problem. Less is known about Russets because they are so small. I fought them with Forbid and essential oils, soaps, etc and pretty much beat them. They did stunt growth.

When this is all said and done - when you go to harvest you can rinse the buds and plants to clean things off.
Jorge Cervantes aka George Salem uses a little hydrogen peroxide with luke warm water. Make sure to hang with a fan on them to dry. Mold and mildew are not good to smoke.

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=jorge+cervantes+rinsing+after+harvest
They're just reg seeds so I'll have males and females but one or two I'm suspecting both types of preflowers on.

I need to seal my door a bit better, it's not a perfect fit (long story). I stood in there this morning for about 5 mins in the dark. Can't even see your hand in front of your face but after a few minutes i noticed in the bottom corner of the door it wasn't pitch black, real small area, idk how much light is too much but it didn't even become visible to my eyes until I was in there a few minutes. So anyway that's a problem and hopefully it's not causing them to hermie already, I'll get it all sealed up tonight.

I have amazon prime if I can get it on there. Would probably choose the one day shipping for timing. My temps stay between upper 60s to about 81 at the highest. Rh stays between around 45 to 55 percent. I have humidifiers and dehumidifiers and all that though so I should be able to control the environment to Whatever is suitable for the predatory mites.
 

JSheeze

Well-Known Member
I need to seal my door a bit better, it's not a perfect fit (long story). I stood in there this morning for about 5 mins in the dark. Can't even see your hand in front of your face but after a few minutes i noticed in the bottom corner of the door it wasn't pitch black, real small area, idk how much light is too much but it didn't even become visible to my eyes until I was in there a few minutes. So anyway that's a problem and hopefully it's not causing them to hermie already, I'll get it all sealed up tonight.
Maybe diff stains act diff, but I have mine in a hallway closet with slivers of space between the door frame and the accordion door, on both sides, and prolly a 3/8" gap running top to bottom, in the middle, between both panels, because the hinges aren't flush. Mine aren't herming, and it seems like I prolly have more light leak than you. If it makes you feel any better lol
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
Maybe diff stains act diff, but I have mine in a hallway closet with slivers of space between the door frame and the accordion door, on both sides, and prolly a 3/8" gap running top to bottom, in the middle, between both panels, because the hinges aren't flush. Mine aren't herming, and it seems like I prolly have more light leak than you. If it makes you feel any better lol
Yeah, surely the amount of leak that I have isn't too much. I mean it's like majorly nowhere near as bright as the moon. The pre flowers are still pretty tiny. I probably just need to give them time to get a bit bigger.

I'll still seal up the door better tonight though just for the assurance. Way too much time and money invested to have an entire crop go bad over something so simple.
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
Yeah, surely the amount of leak that I have isn't too much. I mean it's like majorly nowhere near as bright as the moon. The pre flowers are still pretty tiny. I probably just need to give them time to get a bit bigger.

I'll still seal up the door better tonight though just for the assurance. Way too much time and money invested to have an entire crop go bad over something so simple.
I have seen people say it's no big deal but light leaks are a big deal. There are lots of little details but when you take care of them then things work out.
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
Just walked in and checking things out now. The leaves look a bit shiny and oily, I'm wondering if I should give them a good rinse with water and a drop of soap. Overall they're beginning to look real healthy and happy. They have had lots of stuff sprayed on them the past couple weeks, is it necessary to rinse the leaves every so often?

I'm beginning to wonder if the bigger yellow one will make it. I've fed it, both liquid and solid. Isn't greening up one bit.
 

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NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
Now what the heck is this? Dying twisted growth that's turning black? I've never really heard of black coloring on leaves but I'm a noob. Is this just a symtom of the mites or do you know why the leaf might be turning black?
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
After further inspection the dying black edges are everywhere. Basically on every plant and I don't remember seeing them yesterday
 

JSheeze

Well-Known Member
Here they are
Mine had some of that twisting growth as a youngin too, and developed the black crispy bltchy edges later on, it's still chugging, but curious what the take is on this as well. The twisting never really got better, I added Epsom salt because I thought it might be Mg def, but after a week of watering with a decent amount Epsom (1tbls per 2liter) didn't see any changes (still keeping with the Epsom though). I thought it might be fungal related because I saw some dead gnats stuck to the sides of the holes in the bottom of the pot meant for drainage, so I stopped watering for a few days, I think 4. Then I tried to break up any underground layer keeping the water suspended and from flowing out the drainage holes with a steel spike. It helped, the plant seemed to liven up, but soon after started to develop those crispy black blotches during flower. I've been plucking the leaves, but still haven't found a remedy.

*A diff plant than the one I've been posting, just a lil clarification..
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
Those black areas are crispy and brittle too, basically dead. Thinking I should give them a good rinsing
Here you go for rinsing. Asprin spray which is really salycilic acid. One or two asprin in a gallon of water. You may want to pre dissolve the asprin in a cup of water.

Supposedly it helps the plants immune system fire up to fight back against bugs. You can use it to also rinse the plants.

 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
Those black areas are crispy and brittle too, basically dead. Thinking I should give them a good rinsing
The dark green tips? Might be too much nutes. Try watering with just water for a day or two. Not to try to get you to spend more money but do you have a reverse osmosis water filter? Do you PH your water?

My first Grateful Dead middle age hippy guru used to say his water was a perfect at PH of 7 and did not need to PH the water. BS. What a clown this guy was., Depending on the nutes you use. veg usually about 6.2 to 6.3 range and as you move into flower closer to 6.0. Also your water should be about 70 to 73 degrees or at least close to that. Not to hot, not too cold.

If you have nute now - stick with them. I switched to Mega Crop because it is amazingly complete and cheap. It has everything that I had been spending extra money to add like Silca, kelp, B vitamins etc. The guy below is using it and it is going great. I just started using it and testing. I do not work for them but the cost is so cheap and it has everything so you don't need to buy other stuff. No more having to add and mix in kelp or Silica or magnesium or sulfate or other things.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/mega-crop-scrog-grow.950363/
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
The dark green tips? Might be too much nutes. Try watering with just water for a day or two. Not to try to get you to spend more money but do you have a reverse osmosis water filter? Do you PH your water?

My first Grateful Dead middle age hippy guru used to say his water was a perfect at PH of 7 and did not need to PH the water. BS. What a clown this guy was., Depending on the nutes you use. veg usually about 6.2 to 6.3 range and as you move into flower closer to 6.0. Also your water should be about 70 to 73 degrees or at least close to that. Not to hot, not too cold.

If you have nute now - stick with them. I switched to Mega Crop because it is amazingly complete and cheap. It has everything that I had been spending extra money to add like Silca, kelp, B vitamins etc. The guy below is using it and it is going great. I just started using it and testing. I do not work for them but the cost is so cheap and it has everything so you don't need to buy other stuff. No more having to add and mix in kelp or Silica or magnesium or sulfate or other things.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/mega-crop-scrog-grow.950363/
Yeah I use partial r.o. water and ph my water to 6.4-6.5. They haven't really been getting any nutes, they're feeding off the ocean forest soil right now since they just got transplanted about a week and a half ago. A couple plants I've started to mix in the organic nutes that I'll be using. I also have some liquid silica that I should be giving them bit just been so much going on. They aren't drinking very fast yet though since they were transplanted recently. And my water tank should be somewhere near 70 degrees. I keep my plant water built up in a 44 gal barrel.
 

NugHeuser

Well-Known Member
When I sprayed them with the essential oils I thought I'd be able to get away with raising the lights about 4 feet so I didn't have to turn them off because it was like 12 hours into their light cycle but I'm starting to think that I burnt the leaves by not turning the lights off
 

evergreengardener

Well-Known Member
The dark green tips? Might be too much nutes. Try watering with just water for a day or two. Not to try to get you to spend more money but do you have a reverse osmosis water filter? Do you PH your water?

My first Grateful Dead middle age hippy guru used to say his water was a perfect at PH of 7 and did not need to PH the water. BS. What a clown this guy was., Depending on the nutes you use. veg usually about 6.2 to 6.3 range and as you move into flower closer to 6.0. Also your water should be about 70 to 73 degrees or at least close to that. Not to hot, not too cold.

If you have nute now - stick with them. I switched to Mega Crop because it is amazingly complete and cheap. It has everything that I had been spending extra money to add like Silca, kelp, B vitamins etc. The guy below is using it and it is going great. I just started using it and testing. I do not work for them but the cost is so cheap and it has everything so you don't need to buy other stuff. No more having to add and mix in kelp or Silica or magnesium or sulfate or other things.

https://www.rollitup.org/t/mega-crop-scrog-grow.950363/
Went and looked at those nutes they look good and you can get a 230g bag for the cost of shipping they have a promo code i did it it worked cost me 2dollars and some change
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
When I sprayed them with the essential oils I thought I'd be able to get away with raising the lights about 4 feet so I didn't have to turn them off because it was like 12 hours into their light cycle but I'm starting to think that I burnt the leaves by not turning the lights off
Maybe. The water usually pools on the tips.
 
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