Undercurrent pipe size question

firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
I don't use bulkheads, I use uniseals, which are cheaper than even the 1" bulkheads here, so the only difference in cost is between 1" and 2" pipe which is $5 at most. I'm running close 600gph through a ~20gal system which results in fast flow through the pipe.

I built a 1" system originally based on what I read on forums and from other people, and I wished I would've started with the 2" system. I am able to pump much more water now, and recycle my entire loop roughly once every 2 minutes. If it works for you, nothing wrong with that. But I can't personally recommend it to others based on my experiences.
And thats all that matters is that it works for the person using it. When I pH it stabilizes quickly so that tells me its circulating just fine. Id need to do a dye test to accurately say how long it takes, but for me its fast enough. Im moving a lot more water than you since my system is quadruple the size.

I went bulkheads cause I didnt wanna be bothered by all the leaky uniseal stories ive heard over the years.

Aside for placing the gasket on the wrong side like a bonehead I havent had one leak. To me thats worth every penny.
 

Sureshot2

Well-Known Member
And thats all that matters is that it works for the person using it. When I pH it stabilizes quickly so that tells me its circulating just fine. Id need to do a dye test to accurately say how long it takes, but for me its fast enough. Im moving a lot more water than you since my system is quadruple the size.

I went bulkheads cause I didnt wanna be bothered by all the leaky uniseal stories ive heard over the years.

Aside for placing the gasket on the wrong side like a bonehead I havent had one leak. To me thats worth every penny.
Well yes you have more to move but less flow than mine. Proportional flow would be you using a ~2400gph pump. That was the point I was trying to make earlier, if you have larger return pipes you can install higher flow rate pumps.

I will say that I think most of the uniseal leak stories are complete BS. I can guarantee all of them are caused by people using hole saws that were "close enough" in size. A properly fitted uniseal is damn near impossible to get the pipe through even with lubricant and you will hate your life while trying to get everything connected. With such little pressure in these buckets I can't possibly seeing one ever leak if it was installed per the instructions. To be honest I trust my uniseals 100x more than any bulkhead I've ever used.
 

Victor6634

Well-Known Member
With unseals you take a greater risk of leaks I started out with unisex’s and will never go back bulkheads are much safer as far as price $ 6.49 each for 2 inch bulkheads at marinedepot.uniseals leak with movement of container or shifting
 

firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
Well yes you have more to move but less flow than mine. Proportional flow would be you using a ~2400gph pump. That was the point I was trying to make earlier, if you have larger return pipes you can install higher flow rate pumps.

I will say that I think most of the uniseal leak stories are complete BS. I can guarantee all of them are caused by people using hole saws that were "close enough" in size. A properly fitted uniseal is damn near impossible to get the pipe through even with lubricant and you will hate your life while trying to get everything connected. With such little pressure in these buckets I can't possibly seeing one ever leak if it was installed per the instructions. To be honest I trust my uniseals 100x more than any bulkhead I've ever used.
To each their own I guess. I have my res raised above my control and uniseals there would be too much slant and they would leak.
 

Sureshot2

Well-Known Member
With unseals you take a greater risk of leaks I started out with unisex’s and will never go back bulkheads are much safer as far as price $ 6.49 each for 2 inch bulkheads at marinedepot.uniseals leak with movement of container or shifting
Not sure how everyone is getting leaks with uniseals unless you are cutting out too large of a hole, or are putting the seal on a curved face. I can move containers around all i want with no leaks as long as I don't literally kick a container or something, which would cause a bulkhead to fail as well.

To each their own I guess. I have my res raised above my control and uniseals there would be too much slant and they would leak.
Yeah that's true. I don't think I would use uniseals with a slanted pipe so that makes sense.
 

Victor6634

Well-Known Member
Not sure how everyone is getting leaks with uniseals unless you are cutting out too large of a hole, or are putting the seal on a curved face. I can move containers around all i want with no leaks as long as I don't literally kick a container or something, which would cause a bulkhead to fail as well.



Yeah that's true. I don't think I would use uniseals with a slanted pipe so that makes sense.
If that’s what you want use so be it wish ya the best
 

firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
Not sure how everyone is getting leaks with uniseals unless you are cutting out too large of a hole, or are putting the seal on a curved face. I can move containers around all i want with no leaks as long as I don't literally kick a container or something, which would cause a bulkhead to fail as well.



Yeah that's true. I don't think I would use uniseals with a slanted pipe so that makes sense.
Bulkheads dont fail from,being kicked. My totes where they connect to the contol bucket the face is bowed,out due to the drop in elevation. Bulkhead handles that fine.
 

Sureshot2

Well-Known Member
Bulkheads dont fail from,being kicked. My totes where they connect to the contol bucket the face is bowed,out due to the drop in elevation. Bulkhead handles that fine.
I meant literally kicking it hard with your foot. Any cheap plastic pipe fitting will fail from that...

I guess I don't understand why people are kicking and moving their UC so much to the point of causing leaks? No system is impermeable to leaks, uniseals can leak if flexed too much or installed improperly, but so can bulkheads with too large of a hole or if not glued in.

I think it is unwise to suggest that one fitting is completely foolproof over another. No system will be completely leak proof, it is up to you to keep an eye on your system and take care of it. And of course with any fitting for these systems I always apply silicone (RTV) on each side of the seal.

I think from a price perspective anything 2" and larger is impractical price wise, but I would definitely use bulkheads for 1" or or smaller flexible tubing.
 
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Niblixdark

Well-Known Member
If you've built hydro systems before, this isn't anymore complicated than any other method. It takes some planning for the pipe parts, because there'll be a lot of them LOL
Sounds like fun, I'll have to think about it first if going this way, seems like less of a chance with things going wrong in the system. Like airstone failures
 

Niblixdark

Well-Known Member
I run 6x, 5 gal buckets in RDWC with dual inlet flow with 6" stones and a Eco air commercial pump, 793GPH. 3/4 dro fittings. Along with a chiller ofcourse or else the system boils lol

UC vs this?
 

firsttimeARE

Well-Known Member
Where can I look at these 2" UC systems at. What are some of the better brand systems?
Dont waste your money on a name brand system.

(5) walmart 27g tough totes $50
15Ft 1" poly tubing ($5)
(15) 1" barbed bulkheads ($40)
(5) 1" barbed elbows $3
(1) 1" barbed tee $0.50
(1) 600-1000gph pump $40-60
(4) 1x1/2" barbed reducing tees ($3)
(1) 1" barbed cap $0.50
(4) 1/2" barbed elbows ($2)
5ft 1/2" poly tubing ($1)

$145-$165 depending on,size,of,pump

And if you dont have a stepped drillbit they sell a two pack at harbor freight for $15-$20. Its the bigger one I think its 1-3/8" and a deburring tool works well and can be had for less than $10 the HDX home depot brand, grey and orange.

Its simple to put together and dirt cheap. This is,only a 4,site so if you wanted more,its about $22 per site. So a 12 site would be like $350. Compare that to a current culture xxl 12 site thats $2,000
 

Sureshot2

Well-Known Member
Dont waste your money on a name brand system.

(5) walmart 27g tough totes $50
15Ft 1" poly tubing ($5)
(15) 1" barbed bulkheads ($40)
(5) 1" barbed elbows $3
(1) 1" barbed tee $0.50
(1) 600-1000gph pump $40-60
(4) 1x1/2" barbed reducing tees ($3)
(1) 1" barbed cap $0.50
(4) 1/2" barbed elbows ($2)
5ft 1/2" poly tubing ($1)

$145-$165 depending on,size,of,pump

And if you dont have a stepped drillbit they sell a two pack at harbor freight for $15-$20. Its the bigger one I think its 1-3/8" and a deburring tool works well and can be had for less than $10 the HDX home depot brand, grey and orange.

Its simple to put together and dirt cheap. This is,only a 4,site so if you wanted more,its about $22 per site. So a 12 site would be like $350. Compare that to a current culture xxl 12 site thats $2,000
Looks about right. Only thing to keep in mind is that with the 27g totes you have a lot of water, which means a much larger capacity chiller and the larger electric bill and price tag that comes with it.

The 15g and 8g tubs work well if you can't afford a large chiller or don't need such large sites, and would still work perfectly in this build.
 
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