Mega Crop Scrog grow

horribleherk

Well-Known Member
yeah, plain package :) return address is GLN which doesn't really mean anything. We have been shipping since 2009 to non-medical states so security is standard!


Edit: if you are super paranoid, in a non-medical state, you could always ship to a friend/family house and pick it up in person, so there won't be any address links
I'm looking for a simple nutrient & have 2 tents available soon
 

whitebb2727

Well-Known Member
yeah, plain package :) return address is GLN which doesn't really mean anything. We have been shipping since 2009 to non-medical states so security is standard!


Edit: if you are super paranoid, in a non-medical state, you could always ship to a friend/family house and pick it up in person, so there won't be any address links
I wouldn't worry. I back this statement up. Personally received an unmarked package in illegal state.
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
My next round with Mega Crop I will be adding Sweet Candy, Bennies and some type of Ryzo products my hydro store freebe to me lol.

Hey Grizzly Adams dude. If you were setting up a 6 lights room with 4 QB panels per light to match 1000 watt HPS with Co2 and Mega Crop on a tupur or coco drip system - what do you think you could pull per light? 2 rows of 3 (4) QB panels? I think that is 2 x 260 watt QB's per fixture with 6 of those.

Good yielding strain. My friend, who I help, pull 3 per light on 6 SE HPS 1000 watt in that set up 4 plants per light (24). This was using something like Jack's with other amendments Kelp, Humic, etc. Thanks bro.
 
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ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
Hey Grizzly Adams due. If you were setting up a 6 lights room with 4 QB panels per light to match 1000 watt HPS with Co2 and Mega Crop on a tupur or coco drip system - what do you think you could pull per light? 2 rows of 3 (4) QB panels? I think that is 2 x 260 watt QB's per fixture with 6 of those.

Good yielding strain. My friend, who I help, pull 3 per light on 6 SE HPS 1000 watt in that set up 4 plants per light (24). This was using something like Jack's with other amendments Kelp, Humic, etc. Thanks bro.
The best weight I've pulled I'm my setup is 2.5 GPW using 185W max on the lighting. For me its too much, I may only use 1/8 a month if that.

Maximum yield I would train and Scrog, its a lot more work and veg time but it will bring the most GPW. Your going to sacrifice growth speed even with Co2. Open room vs enclosed reflective tent also makes a difference. Even some tents do not reflect as good as others.

I too consult others in my area but only those who freely share and for there own personal use "No Ops".

I'm more in the camp of trying to pull as much quality for as little energy footprint as I can. There are many in my circle who don't even know that I partake for pain or even grow my meds. I've had many sitting mere feet from where my little grow is and not even know its there. I'm completely under the table/radar and literally in the closet lol.
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
I think of nutrients as vitamins that we take. We cant live off of a handful of vitamins alone, we need food. Light is the food for a plant and nutrients are the vitamins. A grow is only as good as its weakest link. If you have everything well balanced, environment, nutrients and light things should be good to go.

I don't read High Times I read Maximum Yield "free at hydro store".
I don't flush I rinse.
I don't defoliate I prune
I'm not feeding when watering nutrients.
I use nutrients every watering.
 
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Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
The best weight I've pulled I'm my setup is 2.5 GPW using 185W max on the lighting. For me its too much, I may only use 1/8 a month if that.

Maximum yield I would train and Scrog, its a lot more work and veg time but it will bring the most GPW. Your going to sacrifice growth speed even with Co2. Open room vs enclosed reflective tent also makes a difference. Even some tents do not reflect as good as others.

I too consult others in my area but only those who freely share and for there own personal use "No Ops".

I'm more in the camp of trying to pull as much quality for as little energy footprint as I can. There are many in my circle who don't even know that I partake for pain or even grow my meds. I've had many sitting mere feet from where my little grow is and not even know its there. I'm completely under the table/radar and literally in the closet lol.
I am seriously impressed and get the under the radar. I might be working on a commercial licensed setup in the future. One of the things we want to work on is providing, some way, Rick Simpson type medicine plus trying to come up with a plan to create a medicine to help opiod users to get off that horrible shit that is destroying hundreds of thousands if not millions. the guy I may be working with has a plan for that.

Help me with the math if you would be so kind. So QB's at 2 x 260 watt (2) QB boards = 520 watts. 520 watts x 2.5 GPW = 1550 grams per fixture probably under 4 plants????. (how many did you have?)

So this would be in the range of 1550 grams which equals about 3.42 lb per 520 watts of QB light fixtures?

I get the quality versus quantity but I kind of like the geeks stuff like those guys trying to get 60 mpg on long road runs. 3.42 per 520 watts of QB light would be pretty staggering.

BTW - did you know Dan Haggerty or did you just like the show or the bear on the show?
My sister had a crush on him when the TV show was on. I liked the bear - he was bad ass.
Dan seemed like a really good dude.

Peace.
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
I am seriously impressed and get the under the radar. I might be working on a commercial licensed setup in the future. One of the things we want to work on is providing, some way, Rick Simpson type medicine plus trying to come up with a plan to create a medicine to help opiod users to get off that horrible shit that is destroying hundreds of thousands if not millions. the guy I may be working with has a plan for that.

Help me with the math if you would be so kind. So QB's at 2 x 260 watt (2) QB boards = 520 watts. 520 watts x 2.5 GPW = 1550 grams per fixture probably under 4 plants????. (how many did you have?)

So this would be in the range of 1550 grams which equals about 3.42 lb per 520 watts of QB light fixtures?

I get the quality versus quantity but I kind of like the geeks stuff like those guys trying to get 60 mpg on long road runs. 3.42 per 520 watts of QB light would be pretty staggering.

BTW - did you know Dan Haggerty or did you just like the show or the bear on the show?
My sister had a crush on him when the TV show was on. I liked the bear - he was bad ass.
Dan seemed like a really good dude.

Peace.
I'm not sure if adding watts will add volume a plant can only photosynthesize so fast. With COB LED lighting the plants are doing just that and most boutique nutrient lineup feed schedules cant keep up with them. That's why you also see a lot of mag/cal issues.

The trick to Quantum COB style LED is getting the lights at the right height with the right amount of watts for a given space. Its not as easy as turn it on and forget it with dimmable drivers. That's just the lights, my grows before this and now are all on controllers for environment. In veg I can set my temps to 75-80 with 60% RH, In flower 65-70 45% RH, late flower cold and 40% RH or less. Drying in the same space I can lock in perfect drying conditions as well.

Light, environment, training, nutrients, genetics, care, all play a roll in yield. Your only going to yield as your weakest link. 3.42 per 520 watts of QB light can be done if the conditions are right.

Yes I knew Dan.
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
Sorry missed this
how many did you have?)
1 plant 2.5 GPW at 185W Trained and Scroged 5 weeks seed through veg and 8 weeks flower.

For pure weight you could pump the silica or use a product like GLN Gravitron.

When people smoke my stuff they also comment on how complete the burn is and the ash is light. The high grade commercial they smoke turns to a black lump of coal. To each there own.
 

Colo MMJ

Well-Known Member
Sorry missed this
how many did you have?)
1 plant 2.5 GPW at 185W Trained and Scroged 5 weeks seed through veg and 8 weeks flower.

For pure weight you could pump the silica or use a product like GLN Gravitron.

When people smoke my stuff they also comment on how complete the burn is and the ash is light. The high grade commercial they smoke turns to a black lump of coal. To each there own.
Thanks. My mate is running 30 gallon rez on drip setup with Tupur. Dripping 4 to 6 times a night with cloth pots. Vacuuming flood tables.

He just switched to MC. Looks really good in veg and too early to be 100% sure in flower but I only help out. each night dripping about 26 gallons. MC and he adds a little MKP and small amount of silica. I was looking at Gravitron. I am thinking maybe doing hand water the first drip and adding Gravitron. Not vaccuuming flood tables after first water. The second drip is about 2.5 hours later.

Any idea which week to start Gravitron? Thanks.,
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
Thanks. My mate is running 30 gallon rez on drip setup with Tupur. Dripping 4 to 6 times a night with cloth pots. Vacuuming flood tables.

He just switched to MC. Looks really good in veg and too early to be 100% sure in flower but I only help out. each night dripping about 26 gallons. MC and he adds a little MKP and small amount of silica. I was looking at Gravitron. I am thinking maybe doing hand water the first drip and adding Gravitron. Not vaccuuming flood tables after first water. The second drip is about 2.5 hours later.

Any idea which week to start Gravitron? Thanks.,
@GreenleafNutrients can answer your question on graviton. I have there Sweet candy for my next run. A lot cheper than Floro plus or Bud candy.

I use ArmorSi "silica" as a PH up
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
Nice article from the Canna news letter for anyone following my journal. I don't use there products but there info is spot on.

Making temperature work for success

Temperature has a direct effect on the growth and development of a plant or crop. Most influential of all is air temperature, which can influence the entire plant system.
By Geary Coogler, BSc Horticulture

See also our article: How air temperature affects plants

All the main areas of concern – watering, root zone, flowering, maturation, and harvest – are directly influenced by air temperature. Ambient air temperature serves as the main control of plant function and development. It can speed up or slow down all the chemical processes that need to happen for the plant to survive, and it can even affect the physical structure of the cells themselves.

But what about nutrition, and water, and all the other things that plants need? These are certainly every bit as important as temperature, but a plant will continue to grow, even if certain nutrients are lacking. As temperature is reduced, however, less growth will actually occur.

Environmental factors determine the development of the plant. These factors are also interrelated, and the most dominant of all is temperature.

Temperature affects relative humidity which in turn drives the water supply and ion transport. Temperature will even affect the Phenotype of a plant. It will affect which ions are taken up, and it will affect the stability of compounds produced by the plant. It will also affect the incidence of disease and insect infestations. In short, temperature is important. It is the first thing you should check when you are looking for the cause of problems with your plants, and if success is important to you, temperature must be managed correctly.

Here are some important observations about air temperature:
  1. The temperature of the inside of the plant tissue that enables photosynthesis to occur will be higher than the surrounding air. Light is focused and absorbed by the tissue, and some of it is converted into heat energy too.
  2. Temperature, because it relates to humidity, determines both the evaporative potential for the plant and its need for water and so it drives the ‘engine’ of the plant.
  3. Chemical reactions can all be regulated by the introduction – or removal – of heat: in plants, the higher the temperature, the faster chemical and physical reactions occur, up to the point at which the reaction chain is short-circuited.
  4. Temperature affects the shapes of some molecules, particularly proteins, and both higher and lower temperatures will ‘denature’ a protein which means it changes shape and becomes different. Think about what happens when you boil an egg, for example.
  5. Temperature has an ideal range, and it also has a survival range.
  6. Air temperature should be adjusted with root zone temperature in mind. When root zone temperatures are too far below air temperature, the root system may fall behind the top of the plant, meaning a lack of water and nutrient uptake.
  7. Because temperature affects the production or utilization of many compounds within the plant, it can be used to control many factors such as height, the intensity of colors, or even metabolite production.


The temperature of the growing environment must be regulated whenever possible, and mitigated when this is not possible. Methods of regulating air temperature can vary and how this is done matters little, as long as factors such as safety and humidity are planned for. There are forced air systems, evaporative cooling systems, radiant heat systems, steam, hot water, electric, and so on. However, looking at all these different systems is not our concern here, but rather why we should regulate temperature and what we can achieve by this.

The entire discussion about temperature could probably be condensed down into the notion that a plant is basically a water-filled collection of very small bags (cells) in which chemical processes occur, and that temperature defines the boundaries within which these reactions can occur as they should. These chemical processes are, essentially, what life is – the succession of reactions that occur beginning from the translation of DNA to the accumulation of mass through self-replication.

The ultimate goal is to ensure that all the chemical processes occurring in the proper order, at the proper time, and at maximum capacity, just like any other assembly line out there.

The closer the conditions are to ‘perfect’, the better these processes will occur.

Although plants share a majority of the same processes, they do differ in their ultimate composition based, in large part, on the environment in which they have evolved, so it is not a one-size-fits-all situation. Any plant will have a temperature range in which it does best, as well as substrate conditions, light quantity, light quality, and water availability, and all these things affect whether the chemical processes that constitute life can occur as they should. These temperature ranges correspond to the range within which water remains liquid. Each species of plant has a specific range of temperatures that they can survive in. They also have a much smaller range within which they will perform optimally.

Because all the essential factors for plant life (light, temperature, water, element availability) are interconnected, and because the plant depends on accumulating certain components needed for these processes before they can begin others, they develop cycles of minimum and maximum activity known as diurnal cycles, or daily cycles. Everything needs to come together at the correct time within a 24-hour window. All this involves the many effects of temperature including its direct effect on humidity. As air temperature rises or falls, so too does its capacity to hold water. This is why we talk of Relative Humidity – the level of humidity in the air is always relative to what the temperature is at any given moment in time. The humidity content in the air governs the rate at which evapotranspiration can occur in a plant. This is the process that cools the plant tissues in which the chemical processes occur, supplies the water that the plant needs, and includes nutrient transport in a process known as mass, or bulk flow. These chemical reactions not only require a certain temperature, they also give off heat themselves. In addition, the temperature at which reactions will occur effectively controls what the plant produces and how well it works.


If a grower is aware of these relationships, he can also calculate what temperature ranges the crops need and provide this on the basis of the stage at which the crop is in, taking into account all the other requirements such as light levels, timing and intensity and quality. If the grower cannot regulate these temperatures, he must adjust the other aspects of growing, again such as light levels, water supply, humidity, and fertility based on the temperature conditions that will affect the crop.

The grower can also control the temperature to achieve a certain level of growth or development. One of the best ways to use temperature controls is to regulate the difference between day and night temperatures. The DIF is the difference between day temperatures and night temperatures. This influences growth and development benchmarks such as internode length (plant height), leaf and shoot orientation, chlorophyll content, branching and flower development. Some plants delay flowering if the day temperature is lower than the night temperature (negative DIF), but they will develop height faster through internode elongation. Cooler night temperatures can control flower development and color, maintain a compact growth form, and influence the development of plant specific compounds.

The grower should research the crop being grown because all plants react differently – there are not only differences between species but also between varieties of the same species.

Temperature will also affect what is possible and how the plant or crop should be fed and watered. Where day temperatures are higher or lower than the optimum range, the water supply and feed applications should also change. Higher temperatures and brighter light levels will soon require higher amounts of water while nutrient concentration should be reduced because the plant needs more water. Of course, as mentioned earlier, the same can occur when the humidity levels are out of line with the temperatures.



Typically, during the flowering stage, night temperatures should be cooler than day, but this can vary from plant to plant. Just a few degrees can make a difference in the timing and final quality of the crop. Additional techniques for using this knowledge of differences in temperature (coupled with light quality/ quantity) are known but have not been tried and tested to the same extent in real-world growing. Even a short duration ‘dip’ in night temperature can produce results. While a small difference is allowed between night and day temperatures, an additional couple of hours in which the temperature dips further right at the beginning of daylight conditions is allowed. This is hard to achieve with current controller design but shows some promise.

In the end, the grower has to understand the needs of his crop, what is possible for that crop and cultivation setup, and he must provide a minimum level of regulation to achieve consistent quality. There are no short-cuts here. The plant develops within a certain temperature range. While the plant can survive and even do moderately well in a wide range of air temperatures, optimum performance is impossible without the optimum temperature range.
 

GreenleafNutrients

Well-Known Member
Thanks. My mate is running 30 gallon rez on drip setup with Tupur. Dripping 4 to 6 times a night with cloth pots. Vacuuming flood tables.

He just switched to MC. Looks really good in veg and too early to be 100% sure in flower but I only help out. each night dripping about 26 gallons. MC and he adds a little MKP and small amount of silica. I was looking at Gravitron. I am thinking maybe doing hand water the first drip and adding Gravitron. Not vaccuuming flood tables after first water. The second drip is about 2.5 hours later.

Any idea which week to start Gravitron? Thanks.,
Gravitron is a PGR product, similar to the old Gravity product. So, just a warning, this is a synthetic type hormone used to stop plant vertical growth, and is considered a "Bud Hardener." It will show up on laboratory test if you submit samples for analysis. We had a lot of requests for it, that is why we started to make this product, but I do realize it is not for everyone.

You use it estimated about 3 weeks before plant harvest. You can dose a few times a week.
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
Ok gang a little bit of an update, were in the middle of week 6 on this test grow and started to see what looks like MagCal or Phosphorus deficiency. No bugs I run a clean ship and have looped and microscoped and nada. This is a sugar leaf close to the top of one bud "the only one". Did the best I could with the pics and calling as I see it. I haven't had a up and coming issue in flower in a very long time. Hell maybe the light is a little too close to that one top.

DSCF0063 - Copy.JPG DSCF0064 - Copy.JPG
On deck Grape Ape from AWB on the leftx2. Clearwater Kush from GPS on the right.

DSCF0065 - Copy.JPG
 

HydroRed

Well-Known Member
Ok gang a little bit of an update, were in the middle of week 6 on this test grow and started to see what looks like MagCal or Phosphorus deficiency. No bugs I run a clean ship and have looped and microscoped and nada. This is a sugar leaf close to the top of one bud "the only one". Did the best I could with the pics and calling as I see it. I haven't had a up and coming issue in flower in a very long time. Hell maybe the light is a little too close to that one top.

View attachment 4047338 View attachment 4047339
On deck Grape Ape from AWB on the leftx2. Clearwater Kush from GPS on the right.

View attachment 4047341
Do you mean thats the only leaf showing those symptoms?
Looks like heat issue to me? Might be on to something about being too close to light.
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
Correction tomorrow marks the end of week 6, will do some pics.

@HydroRed the only one that looks like that. Scoping the other leafs it looks like they may start. Again all at the top of one of the tallest buds closest to the light "the only one". I'm not going to go crazy just yet as I'm over the half way mark. Nothing in the mids or lowers are showing anything ,all looks good.

It may very wall be a heat/light/too close issue on my end. 12in in flower is the maximum and this one was 10-11. Raised the light.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
Ok gang a little bit of an update, were in the middle of week 6 on this test grow and started to see what looks like MagCal or Phosphorus deficiency. No bugs I run a clean ship and have looped and microscoped and nada. This is a sugar leaf close to the top of one bud "the only one". Did the best I could with the pics and calling as I see it. I haven't had a up and coming issue in flower in a very long time. Hell maybe the light is a little too close to that one top.

View attachment 4047338 View attachment 4047339
On deck Grape Ape from AWB on the leftx2. Clearwater Kush from GPS on the right.

View attachment 4047341

If that is not a heat stress issue like @HydroRed said it looks like a calcium deficiency to me. Maybe too much and blocked at the roots.

I honestly was worried about so much calcium and the amendments like silica and others all at once blocking roots.

Maybe a light leach with fresh water and try a little lower ec?
 

ChaosHunter

Well-Known Member
I do a rinse with Flora clean after every two rez changes "2 weeks" mind you this is not a flush that others talk about or do on here. If things start to spread and go south quick I will do a rinse early and see how it goes. @MichiganMedGrower I agree and was worried also as why the rinse cycle. Ill give it a day or two and adjust.

Under the loupe it does look like heat stress
 
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