Help please, my girls are not doing well,

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
But from my understanding that stretching period is included in 65-70 days time though
Yes.
Flowering times of indoor plants are taken from the switch. Times are generally based on 1000w, sealed room scenarios. Unless stated. There is at least one breeder who uses 600w timelines and states as such.
Most flowering goes longer than breeder estimates due to most of us not having ideal set ups.
 

theflowerman.dc

Active Member
Yes.
Flowering times of indoor plants are taken from the switch. Times are generally based on 1000w, sealed room scenarios. Unless stated. There is at least one breeder who uses 600w timelines and states as such.
Most flowering goes longer than breeder estimates due to most of us not having ideal set ups.

Truee,

Well this tent should be good i have enough time,
But my other one i might switch it to 11/13 to speed up the process

And i also got far red initiation pucks too
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
more light will always help, a 600 led panel should cover a 2x2 area each if you have 3 that should cover a 6x2 area fine how big is your space again?
If you want to kill your plants.

Lights go like this
2x4 400W 1/2 pound yield
4x4 600W 1 pound yield
4x6 or 5x5 1.5 pound yield

Pick your COB equivalent ratio based on the gear you run. If it is even halfway decent you can divide by between 1.6 to 1.9

There are tables for how long to veg depending on if you use media, hydro or aero VS the number of plants needed.

Using double the amount of light over the same space will fuck your plants.
rather raise the light until it covers the required area.
 

theflowerman.dc

Active Member
I have 3 600s led in my 4x8,

Roughly 900 actual wats



If you want to kill your plants.

Lights go like this
2x4 400W 1/2 pound yield
4x4 600W 1 pound yield
4x6 or 5x5 1.5 pound yield

Pick your COB equivalent ratio based on the gear you run. If it is even halfway decent you can divide by between 1.6 to 1.9

There are tables for how long to veg depending on if you use media, hydro or aero VS the number of plants needed.

Using double the amount of light over the same space will fuck your plants.
rather raise the light until it covers the required area.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Honestly, your pots need to get nearly dry before pH will be a factor.
The majority of the micros use chelated forms, which make them less pH sensitive.
Alkalinity has much more effect then pH, but it is a more complex subject.

More often than not, it is simple, pots got too dry, nutes got too hot, roots got choked being too wet, leading to lockout, lights were too close without the required temp, RH CO2 and nutrients.
It works about as well as the wheels on a shopping cart if you were to drag one behind your car.
 

andy s

Well-Known Member
If you want to kill your plants.

Lights go like this
2x4 400W 1/2 pound yield
4x4 600W 1 pound yield
4x6 or 5x5 1.5 pound yield

Pick your COB equivalent ratio based on the gear you run. If it is even halfway decent you can divide by between 1.6 to 1.9

There are tables for how long to veg depending on if you use media, hydro or aero VS the number of plants needed.

Using double the amount of light over the same space will fuck your plants.
rather raise the light until it covers the required area.
youre joking right lol?
 

andy s

Well-Known Member
Honestly, your pots need to get nearly dry before pH will be a factor.
The majority of the micros use chelated forms, which make them less pH sensitive.
Alkalinity has much more effect then pH, but it is a more complex subject.

More often than not, it is simple, pots got too dry, nutes got too hot, roots got choked being too wet, leading to lockout, lights were too close without the required temp, RH CO2 and nutrients.
It works about as well as the wheels on a shopping cart if you were to drag one behind your car.
why kind of advice is that? so youre saying it doesnt matter what you put in? thats a joke. go ahead and add 8.0 big guy :)
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
No, no, not what I said, its just that I've seen OKish weed grown without pH control
The problems I listed tend to show greater, more harmful effects faster than pH a bit off.

If you knew the alkalinity of your water, most agricultural fertilizers will tell you exactly how much they will acidify or basify the soil per quantity of weight.
Farmers don't have time or money to keep applying amendments and shit. But with those two peices of info they can exactly plan what to add to their mix to settle the pH where needed.

All fertilizers are not the same, older types, will push your pH down, nitrate-based ones will push it up. Chelates, however, are not so dependent on pH to get into your plants.

I always try and teach people, learn how to make your chelates and the ratios.
Calsium with folic and humic acid, or kelp and amino acids for example. This can achieve thousand to ten thousand times the amount of nutrient uptake.
 

andy s

Well-Known Member
Seems fine advice to me.

Why and what parts don't you agree with ?
mainly about killing your plant simply by adding more light. lumens should almost double in flower.
i personally run my 4 or 6 in a 4x4, this run i stretched my 600 to a 4x5 so we shall see what that does and if the outsides are dense still. usually just do a 4x4. hes running leds and theyre not very strong. he can have them 24" away and befine but i would rather not raise the lights bc that just makes them stretch the nodes will be far between and they wont be as dense as they couldve been by simply adding more light to the plant instead.
 

andy s

Well-Known Member
going from one extreme to the next i can understand how tht chage overnight could effect them. i had mine under cfl lighting for about a mont, flipped and switched to my 600w hps and they bout fried bc i left the pots dry i had to move them light went from 25,000 lumens to 89,000 they didnt have anything but a low watt cfl for overhead for 3 days before i installed the hps. shit was crazy.. they all died and came back now looking fantastic i must say and are doing just fine under the light. so if you do add more light ye, move them up but you always wanna bring em back down when they adjust to the light
 

Lucky Luke

Well-Known Member
mainly about killing your plant simply by adding more light. lumens should almost double in flower.
i personally run my 4 or 6 in a 4x4, this run i stretched my 600 to a 4x5 so we shall see what that does and if the outsides are dense still. usually just do a 4x4. hes running leds and theyre not very strong. he can have them 24" away and befine but i would rather not raise the lights bc that just makes them stretch the nodes will be far between and they wont be as dense as they couldve been by simply adding more light to the plant instead.

The weight numbers ANZ said are pretty much spot on to.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
To get the most yield in a year, time is essential and filling the canopy as fast as you can, 2 feet deep.. Aero can cut enough time off a hydro grow, but only one mistake and that extra grow for the year is likely fucked and you still incur costs.

With that 600W light and 4x4 you would be more productive running 16 plants with 3 weeks rooting, 10 days veg, then flip.
 

andy s

Well-Known Member
To get the most yield in a year, time is essential and filling the canopy as fast as you can, 2 feet deep.. Aero can cut enough time off a hydro grow, but only one mistake and that extra grow for the year is likely fucked and you still incur costs.

With that 600W light and 4x4 you would be more productive running 16 plants with 3 weeks rooting, 10 days veg, then flip.
ya i understand that, with my 5x4 i have only 11, they rooted in a week, took a week to start growing, vegged for a month and maybe a week then flipped. i must say that its reallying doing a good job i keep my plants short as possible and bushy, i defoliate vigorously, and train everything to be a nce even canopy without having to use a net
 
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