My DIY Citizen CLU048-1212 90CRI GEN5 COB Led Lights

endersedai

endersedai

Member
Hi all! Been creeping the forum for a while, gaining some good knowledge! Decided to build my own COB lights based on what I've seen people say in the forums.

Parts List
15 x Citizen CLU048-1212 3500k 90CRI GEN5
15 x Ideal Holders/Adapters
15 x LEDiL Angelina reflector
15 x 133mm Heatsinks
Arctic Thermal pads
5 x Mean Well HLG-185H-36B
100k ohm Linear Potentiometer (20pk)
18awg solid core wire (White and Black spool @ 100' in length each)
Wago 222-415 LEVER-NUTS 5 Conductor (40pk)
5 x DROK Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 20A
10 x (5.3" X 3.3" X 1.6") PROJECT BOX (TB-4)
5 x (1" x 1") Aluminum 90 Angle @ 8' in length
5 x Stainless Steel 1/4"-20 threaded rod
Stainless Steel Nuts and Washers for 1/4"-20 thread (100pk each)
1/16" diameter galvanized steel wire w/crimping loops to hang fixtures
Self Drilling Lath Screws #8 x 3/4" (1lb box)
Rust Oleum Metallic Spray Paint - Dark Steel (used aprox. 5-6 cans)
5 x Power cords
5 x Outlet w/ fuse & SPST Switch (IEC320 C14)
TechFlex F6N0.25BK Flexo F6 General Purpose 1/4-inch Braided Cable Sleeve (20ft roll)

Tools On Hand
Orbital Hand Sander - 80grit and 120grit pads
20v Cordless Drill
Miter Saw w/Aluminum cutting blade
Dremmel w/ez attachment and Metal cutting blades
Screwdrivers
Drill bits
Wrenches

After considering how I should build my lights, I decided to build fixtures that contained 3 lights each. I decided to do this based on what Cobkits said about the Citizen 1212's being most efficient at ~50w. Paired with the driver I am using, 3 lights on it gives me a little over 50w per light when wired in parallel. I also felt that 3 gave good spacing on a 3ft long fixture. The fixtures ended up being aprox. 3'x5.5"x8" (LxWxD).

I first cut the 90 angles to size. Used my hand sander to sand off burrs and remove the coating. Started with 80 grit and then went to 120 grit. The spray paint I choose to use is a primer and paint. I only did 1 coat, but when applying I would wait a couple of minutes and apply another coat (can suggested this). I am pleased with the results.

Images of the Kill-A-Watt and the Volt/Amp/Watt Meter show the min and max of the potentiometers ability.

I do have a few things left to do, some things I've yet to receive (crimping loops for the 1/16" wire to hang the fixture).

I REALLY enjoyed this project so much. Would love to make some extra $$ on the side doing it if I can. Would appreciate comments about your thoughts on this too.
 

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endersedai

endersedai

Member
BuddyColas said:
I like the readouts. At 52 watts for 3 1212's...barely even getting above an idle! I'll be watching your build.:mrgreen:
Click to expand...
Oh, I should clarify about that. The readouts on the actual light, not the kill-a-watt, pertain to just a single light on the fixture. The middle one in this case. The whole fixture at max is ~170watt according to the kill-a-watt. :D I can't wait to take PAR readings once I get my new tent up and can do the readings in an empty tent! :D
 
endersedai

endersedai

Member
SSGrower said:
Mmmmkay
Nice build what is and how much current does the display draw?
Click to expand...
I went to the amazon page, (can't do links yet here is the title)DROK Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 20A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter DC Volt Amp Tester Gauge Monitor LCD Digital Display with Blue Backlight Measuring Volts Current with Built-in Shunt
, couldn't find anything about that there. Maybe it can help you track that info down?? I'm sure it's very small, esp. since I have the backlight off. Good question though, so if you find out please share! :D
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Likely under a few watts/ tenths of amps, so why only monitoring one chip instead of each driver?
 
endersedai

endersedai

Member
SSGrower said:
Likely under a few watts/ tenths of amps, so why only monitoring one chip instead of each driver?
Click to expand...
When I saw that the chip I got has its peak performance ~50watt, I thought to just watch that on one light. The driver is const volt & amp, so if one is reading that, they all are.
 
BuddyColas

BuddyColas

Well-Known Member
endersedai said:
Oh, I should clarify about that. The readouts on the actual light, not the kill-a-watt, pertain to just a single light on the fixture. The middle one in this case. The whole fixture at max is ~170watt according to the kill-a-watt. :D I can't wait to take PAR readings once I get my new tent up and can do the readings in an empty tent! :D
Click to expand...
I thought it was for the whole 3-cob bar. 52 watts for a single is good. How are the 133mm sinks handling the heat?
 
Humple

Humple

Well-Known Member
endersedai said:
I haven't had the lights on for a significant amount of time yet to really get a feel for that yet. I will update when I do. :D
Click to expand...
I have to ask, man - the username wouldn't happen to be some kind of mash-up reference to Ender's Game and The Wheel of Time would it?
 
endersedai

endersedai

Member
Was unable to add the pictures to post #3, don't see an option to edit it. Made some changes, here's a bit of a sneak peak. PLUS, I installed the first light in my 4x2' tent that is ~5' tall. I have PAR readings at two different heights. One big thing I'd also like to mention is that with the addition of fuses and resistors to the wiring, each light is ~25watt's in usage at about ~700mA. I was shooting for 50watts per light. Currently, the whole light only consumes ~80watts of power.

Also decided to replace the project boxes with a new kind. I like these ones 10x better!! More sturdy and larger to hold everything.

Temps of the lights have been below 90 deg F for the most part. One resistor has been ~125 deg F at it's highest while the rest are ~90 deg F. But heatsinks and all that, below 100 deg F.
 

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