So I received my metal today. I also got the rounded cornered Aluminum for cheap so I can make a second light.
So originally I was going to go with 18 one foot strips now 24
View attachment 4055061
but now I'm thinking 27 strips
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I still can't figure out the math on how to chose the drivers with these 1 foot strips. I've been told what drivers i need but i want to learn the math.
Could someone write out an equation?
Cheer
CCG
Each tube is 35 inches so 3 strips per tube.How long are these tubes and how much strips per tube. This looks more like 2ft(~60cm) instead like 1ft.(~30cm) tubes.
How much total power watt do you want to have?
To choose a matching driver one need to know which strips you use(part-#, link), how many and how hard you want to drive them.
If one strip is 19,5v and 350mA and you connect 9 in series you need a driver with a Vf of more than 175,5v and 350mA. A HLG-60H-C350B would match and delivers 61,5w net. and 67,5w total(wall watts). If you like to drive them hard, say we at 700mA, you need a driver with min. 178,5v but with 700mA. In this case a HLG-120H-C700 would match and delivers up-to 125w net. and 135w at the wall.
Great information !! Ledgardener also has a great find a driver tool. Compare your calculations above as secondary check.Series circuits: Add up the forward Voltage for each strip in your build to get your total forward voltage (e.g. 10 strips at 23 volts = 230 total volts). Find a driver that has an upper voltage limit that is greater than your total forward voltage and a lower voltage limit that is lower than your total voltage at the current you want to run at (a Meanwell HLG-240H-C1050 would work for this example...pull up the datasheet to confirm). Series circuits, you add the voltages and the current remains the same through each strip. EQ: Vtotal = #strips * V forward of each strip. Current total = Current strip
Parallel circuit: Multiply the current you will be running each each strip by the number of strips to obtain the total current needed. Confirm the voltage drop of a single strip against the current you will be running in the datasheet sheet (there should be a voltage v. current graph) and look at the typical and max voltage in one of the tables in the datasheet. Find a driver that supplies more than the forward Voltage required (I would use the max voltage) and at least the total current required (e.g. for 10 strips @ 1 A, if Vf of one strip=23v, then a driver that produces 20-26v and supplies at least 10 A would be a match). Parallel circuits are like a manifold, you add the currents of the strips and the voltage across each strip remains generally the same. EQ: Vtotal = Vstrip. Current total = # strips * Current strip
Certainly Par numbers would be good...Okay, now let's have a look at parallel wiring.
You could also take a HLG-240 or 320 or 480H-20A, these all are 20v drivers with different current, and connect all the strips in parallel.
A HLG-320H-20A delivers up to 15A, with 30strips in parallel each strip would get 500mA(15A:30strips=0,5A). Vf @500mA is ~20v, so each strip would run at 10w for ~300-320w.
With a HLG-240H-20A(12,5A) and 24 strips it would be about the same 10w per strip, a tiny bit more(12,5A:24strips=520mAx 20V=10,4w), so ~250w total.
A HLG-480H-20A delivers 24Amps, with 27 strips in parallel each would get 888mA(24:30=88 which is already too much. You need at least 34 strips in parallel to run each strip at ~700mA(24A:34strips=705mA per strip, 700mA is maximum for the 1footers).
At 500mA the gen.2 strips run at ~170lm/w(best price performance area, IMO ) with a HLG-320 you would get ~51.000lm. This is enough for a 3x 3' and fits perfect in a 2x 4' tent.
I do not know if it blinds you, but you certainly need sunglasses ...
It's more of an impatience thing for me. They seem to have added the ship date back but I'm still going to go with the Samsung's as I want my tent ready for the new year.Here is the post you replied to, I had deleted it as I thought I had some incorrect numbers. I was looking at the F-Series, I now see you are referring to H-Series.
I'm planning the same build for the same tent. Digikey shows 12/23 ship date.
What part numbers are you comparing? I see 175 lm/W for EB gen 2 and 171 lm/W for the F-Series, both at 3500K.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/bridgelux/BXEB-L0280Z-35E1000-C-B3/976-1736-ND/7907665
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...-inc/SI-B8U261280WW/SI-B8U261280WW-ND/7649215
I might just do that, but i like the excuse of getting another tentMy tent is an iPower 36"x20"x62". I just measured and it's actually 63" tall. BTW, you could probably cut the poles of your tent 1/2" and make it fit.
I have two rolls on order from different suppliers. I just checked and it looks like one will be delivered tomorrow or FridayAlso, I use this thermal tape for fast, easy, effective mounting.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BCP-1roll-15mm-x-50m-Double-Side-Adhesive-Thermal-Conductive-Tape-for-/162616247963?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10
Certainly Par numbers would be good...