linderstein
Well-Known Member
This pcb need heatsink at 120w.
New style Samsung LM561C Board
- Thread starter chuckduck
- Start date
chuckduck
Well-Known Member
If, and when, I do another order of the boards I have I'll send you one too.
Humple
Well-Known Member
But do we know which company this is? I don't see that info mentioned here.
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VegasWinner
Well-Known Member
Nice snag. these guys at that factory are very good and have no need to use fake Samsung diodes. I use the same factory and my boards are fine, as I am sure yours are as well. No one has tested this factories boards except HLG and their QB boards. Those guys are real nice and do not rip you off. watching this one too.
nc208
Well-Known Member
@chuckduck why don't you think you need a heatsink?
see4
Well-Known Member
A "good" PAR meter... there are many meters that are junk
chuckduck
Well-Known Member
I currently have boards with similar spacing between the LEDs and so far none are needed. I keep a fan running on the plants placed in a way that it blows over the boards. There is a small fan at the top of the tent pulling warm air out. I keep the bottom of the tent cracked a bit and air flows past the boards on the way out. If after getting this going I find they are getting too hot at the power I'm running them I may have to add some sort of heatsink.
nc208
Well-Known Member
I use cheap aluminum U channel from a local metal supply to make inexpensive heatsinks.
see4
Well-Known Member
Do any diodes produce 90CRI?nice boards, did u get them in 3000k 90CRI
Is there a noticeable difference between 80cri and 90cri, in terms of yield or bud density?
ganjamystic
Well-Known Member
personally I would move the center 2 out to the edges so the 8 boards form a 3x3 square minus a board in the center, like a square donut.. that will give you the most even coverage with no hotspot..
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legalcanada
Well-Known Member
i would as well, there will be lots of overlap in the center already. or use 9
or throw some cobs in the middlewhat is total wattage of this 336 diode board running at full current? thanks
my 304 diode QB gets ~175 watts @ 1400ma 115v so i did (175/304)*336 =193.42 watts - i'm assuming same output and consumption as same diodes - does my logic seem correct?
see4
Well-Known Member
So if I read that thread right, looks like the only real noticeable difference is that the 90cri is about a week less flower time to harvest. For a lot of people that might be the right choice!
Great find on that link, much appreciated.
Edit: Damn, The Dawg grows some dank ass nugs. And with 4000k and 5000k spectrums only???
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ganjamystic
Well-Known Member
I can't speak for @The Dawg but this little exchange seems to summarize his feelings about 80 vs 90 cri..
As You Can See The 90 Cri Is Once Again Steppin To Da Plate And Biotch Slappin The 80 Cri
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see4
Well-Known Member
So it looks like it does provide slightly better yield too.
I'd say with that, 90CRI is definitely better all around than 80CRI. But also to not discount 80CRI completely as it still does produce good nugs.
Thanks again ganjamystic. I almost typed ganjaman... I've been listening to that style a lot lately..
ganjamystic
Well-Known Member
ya mostly, aside from the grow in that thread which was 3500K..
The 4000k 90 Cri Is My Favorite Spectrum
I Prefer The Upper Kelvins Not Only Because Of The Frost They Produce But To My Nekkid Eye My Plants Look Healthier
see4
Well-Known Member
Can't wait to see what @chuckduck can do with these boards. What were the spectrums you got?
ganjamystic
Well-Known Member
nope. if you use a meter to test, you will find the opposite... the crossover from the other boards will light the center evenly if you leave an empty space there. conversely, if you put a board in the center the crossover from the other boards plus the light from that board will create a hotspot in the center