What ph should runoff water be?

Daveindiego

Well-Known Member
Just double check it again... It is important to water till you get runoff, slow and long watering works better than fast. If your pots are freely draining you cannot put too much water in the coco.
I’ve been watering to significant runoff.

What am I checking for again?
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Well, basically you want to keep on comparing what goes in, to what comes out. This way you can see if the coco is getting hot again.
Watering to runoff prevents many of the pitfalls of coco growing. they trick is not to be fooled by water running down the sides if you let it get too dry to wick.
 

Daveindiego

Well-Known Member
Well, basically you want to keep on comparing what goes in, to what comes out. This way you can see if the coco is getting hot again.
Watering to runoff prevents many of the pitfalls of coco growing. they trick is not to be fooled by water running down the sides if you let it get too dry to wick.
I’m intending to now always measure my runoffs.
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
You need to deal with your 350 ppm starting tap water. At least find out what those 350 ppm's are. A grower can pull off a grow with 350 or even higher but its not ideal...especially growers with less skill. I highly suggest a reverse osmosis filter or some other water source more in the 100 to 200 ppm range. I also suspect (besides hidden powdery spot mildew infected cuttings) this was the start of your whole snowball of problems. Adding a calcium/magnesium supplement and a high calcium coco specific base nutrient fertilizer on top of this 350 ppm start water...oh boy.
 

Daveindiego

Well-Known Member
You need to deal with your 350 ppm starting tap water. At least find out what those 350 ppm's are. A grower can pull off a grow with 350 or even higher but its not ideal...especially growers with less skill. I highly suggest a reverse osmosis filter or some other water source more in the 100 to 200 ppm range. I also suspect (besides hidden powdery spot mildew infected cuttings) this was the start of your whole snowball of problems. Adding a calcium/magnesium supplement and a high calcium coco specific base nutrient fertilizer on top of this 350 ppm start water...oh boy.
Thanks.

I posted my city’s water report in the other thread.

I’m thinking of investing in a reverse osmosis system.
 

Dr. Who

Well-Known Member
You need to deal with your 350 ppm starting tap water. At least find out what those 350 ppm's are. A grower can pull off a grow with 350 or even higher but its not ideal...especially growers with less skill. I highly suggest a reverse osmosis filter or some other water source more in the 100 to 200 ppm range. I also suspect (besides hidden powdery spot mildew infected cuttings) this was the start of your whole snowball of problems. Adding a calcium/magnesium supplement and a high calcium coco specific base nutrient fertilizer on top of this 350 ppm start water...oh boy.
For any type of hydro application...

350 ppm water is not at all good to start with...
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
For any type of hydro application...

350 ppm water is not at all good to start with...
Nope. Not at all. Depending on what it actually is..your tap water is bascially mild nutrient solution...all out of whack. Can't believe the quality of municipal drinking water in this country. Alot of parts of the nation is just nasty. Heard the north east like Maine and Vermont/NH have some really good water but thats an exception. I know all about junk tap water. Flint Michigan native here. Thankfully Iam on the outskirts in Clio and we never got off the Detroit pipeline. Mine is steady at 0.2 ec (110 ppm) consistently. All cal and mag carbonates with a touch of iron. I add just a pinch of soy plant protein hydrolysate (amino acids) and fulvic acid powders to all my plant water to chelate and can take it up more effectively. My tap is my calmag basically. Perfect for hydroponics and plant irrigation. All the hydro shops in town sold a shit load of R.O. filters during that whole crises. And Flint growers (there are a TON of growers now) that used unfiltered Flint tap on thier plants...alot of leaded (and other nasty shit) bud going around. Hemp or Cannabis is a known toxic accumulator. It will take up heavy shit and keep it there. One of the best plants to plant around toxic dump/cleanup sites is hemp.
 
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This shits hilarious.I've grown in soil for...ever but my last three grows have been in coco and I have to say it is so fucking EASY!!!My advice is to buy a complete line of nutrients and follow the directions.Thats it.Don't do anything else.Don't test the run off.PH your water like the bottle says and follow the directions.If it says add the silica first add the silica first if it says add the micros first do that if it says to do a little dance do a little dance....
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Nope. Not at all. Depending on what it actually is..your tap water is bascially mild nutrient solution...all out of whack. Can't believe the quality of municipal drinking water in this country. Alot of parts of the nation is just nasty. Heard the north east like Maine and Vermont/NH have some really good water but thats an exception. I know all about junk tap water. Flint Michigan native here. Thankfully Iam on the outskirts in Clio and we never got off the Detroit pipeline. Mine is steady at 0.2 ec (110 ppm) consistently. All cal and mag carbonates with a touch of iron. I add just a pinch of soy plant protein hydrolysate (amino acids) and fulvic acid powders to all my plant water to chelate and can take it up more effectively. My tap is my calmag basically. Perfect for hydroponics and plant irrigation. All the hydro shops in town sold a shit load of R.O. filters during that whole crises. And Flint growers (there are a TON of growers now) that used unfiltered Flint tap on thier plants...alot of leaded (and other nasty shit) bud going around. Hemp or Cannabis is a known toxic accumulator. It will take up heavy shit and keep it there. One of the best plants to plant around toxic dump/cleanup sites is hemp.
Your countries water system is fucking embarrassing....!
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Well, basically you want to keep on comparing what goes in, to what comes out. This way you can see if the coco is getting hot again.
Watering to runoff prevents many of the pitfalls of coco growing. they trick is not to be fooled by water running down the sides if you let it get too dry to wick.
I wont disagree with you dude but generally runoff can go upto 4000/5000 in media before it causes problems to established roots, this is from horticulture not rollitup though, here it seems that isnt the case and people like their media close to squeaky clean.

A point id wanted to raise for a while as most media act like sponges to nutes and dont give them up easily to plain water flushes :-)
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Yeah I like to have some control over what is in the medium.
I'll water from the top for a few days to get the pots equally wet and then dry together.
But I like to dip and drain them at least once a week so I know exactly how hot the medium is.

I prefer small course corrections to large ones.
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
Your countries water system is fucking embarrassing....!
Its not bad everywhere. The northeast (way north east - like Maine..Vermont..New Hampshire..and maybe upstate New York) has some of the cleanest freshest most awesome water in the world. North west isnt bad either. Its the midwest (except. Minnesota) and the dry arid regions of America that are nasty. It needs to be addressed no doubt. This countries infastructure as well. We need solid leadership to get the ball rolling.
 

since1991

Well-Known Member
I wont disagree with you dude but generally runoff can go upto 4000/5000 in media before it causes problems to established roots, this is from horticulture not rollitup though, here it seems that isnt the case and people like their media close to squeaky clean.

A point id wanted to raise for a while as most media act like sponges to nutes and dont give them up easily to plain water flushes :-)
Ive had run off EC in rockwool and coco coir substrates have a return reading as much as 1.0 to 1.5 higher than input with no ill effects. Long dry down periods when empty tanks or pumps or timers or blocked drippers and what not. That being said...if its 0.2 - 0.5 higher...I dont worry that much. Slightly more leaching/runoff gets it back inline.
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Ive had run off EC in rockwool and coco coir substrates have a return reading as much as 1.0 to 1.5 higher than input with no ill effects. Long dry down periods when empty tanks or pumps or timers or blocked drippers and what not. That being said...if its 0.2 - 0.5 higher...I dont worry that much. Slightly more leaching/runoff gets it back inline.
Theres a shit load of chemistry that we simply dont account for in the media which leaves it higher in runoff with no ill effect. Alas thats far too complex than im willing to go so i can but state that it is common to a point :-)
 

Kingrow1

Well-Known Member
Its not bad everywhere. The northeast (way north east - like Maine..Vermont..New Hampshire..and maybe upstate New York) has some of the cleanest freshest most awesome water in the world. North west isnt bad either. Its the midwest (except. Minnesota) and the dry arid regions of America that are nasty. It needs to be addressed no doubt. This countries infastructure as well. We need solid leadership to get the ball rolling.
Not many countries have such double standards, the fact that it is bad in a lot of places does not bode well for health there. Some may call an 80% safe water system acceptable but tolerances are set at more 100% and failure sees the system shutdown. God knows how much hell would be raised if my local system tested for above safe limits of lead or some of the other bad stuff found in some states drinking taps :-)
 
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