Bridgelux EB Strips GEN 2

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Vehlor

Member
Vehlor said:
I would also use a constant voltage driver and wire in parallel. 185H-20A, 240H-20A, 320H-20A, 600H-20A. Bigger drivers are more expensive but allows you to add more lights later. Note that the bigger driver, the less you can dim your lights.
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I can't edit my post but when I wrote it I was thinking about my gen 1 strips and a 24v. With that setup you need to adjust voltage and current to dim the lights really low cause the voltage only comes down to 22v, but with the 20v drivers the vltage will go down enough to dim the lights until all the way down. This video helped me a lot.

http://ledgardener.com/http-ledgardener-com-ledg-mw-guide-2-cv-parallel/
 
ANC

ANC

Well-Known Member
Ideally in an ideal world, you want to balance the load perfectly equal, this means all strings use exactly the same amount of current and no one string runs brighter than the others.
You will often see little resistors on cheap LED strings, they perform this exact function. Current flowing through a bunch of stuff in series is equal in all of them, but in the real world we are not working with perfect conductors, so you start dealing with voltage drop etc when you make long strings... You gotta pick your poison. Or you can make a jig and measure the voltage and current performance of your strips and match them in groups for assembly.

Strings in series will last longer, more often than not, but they will be less efficient in the real world due to line losses.
 
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1212ham

Well-Known Member
Nonsense, line loss is not higher with series wiring. And what's any of that got to due with spectrum?

If you guys want to continue telling us parallel wiring is bad, please give some real examples with real numbers.
 
Buck5050

Buck5050

Well-Known Member
Well it did come out but not easy. I pulled and twisted like hell while pushing down on that pin hole. I can tell you right now that I was on the verge of breaking the terminal off the strip. If the data sheet calls these things "reusable connectors" there must be some way to easily release the wire. If you can see in the pic above all you have is a pin hole that I had to use a sharp roofing nail to push down with and even then didn't feel like it was compressing anything when I pushed down on it.
 
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1212ham

Well-Known Member
Buck5050 said:
Well it did come out but not easy. I pulled and twisted like hell while pushing down on that pin hole. I can tell you right now that I was on the verge of breaking the terminal off the strip. If the data sheet calls these things "reusable connectors" there must be some way to easily release the wire. If you can see in the pic above all you have is a pin hole that I had to use a sharp roofing nail to push down with and even then didn't feel like it was compressing anything when I pushed down on it.
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I just tried one again and had to use a lot more force on the release than I remembered. Another option is the solder pads on one end of the strip. I soldered stranded wire to hang my vertical strips.
 
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Serva

Serva

Well-Known Member
Buck5050 said:
Yes sir! Digikey hasn't received the 5000k yet so my build is in limbo atm.
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Yeah, I am also waiting. I called them, and they told me, they are in stock now, so I could do my order again. But nothing...

Btw, which kind of wire did you used? I have used stranded silicone wire (AWG19) for gen1, and loved them, because of the flexibilty (so I was able to hide them). But I guess I won‘t use them for gen2... :D
 
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Buck5050

Buck5050

Well-Known Member
It's 18awg solid copper. The wire is extra from a ballast kit. I wanted to wire up the 8 strips and test them out after building the frame but if I cant remove the wire easily enough I will wait till the rest of the strips get here.
@1212ham maybe I have a bad terminal. I will check some of the other strips when I finish up the build. Its hard for me to believe that I would be difficult to connect and disconnect using the these so at the moment I am blaming user error.
 
Serva

Serva

Well-Known Member
Buck5050 said:
It's 18awg solid copper. The wire is extra from a ballast kit. I wanted to wire up the 8 strips and test them out after building the frame but if I cant remove the wire easily enough I will wait till the rest of the strips get here.
@1212ham maybe I have a bad terminal. I will check some of the other strips when I finish up the build. Its hard for me to believe that I would be difficult to connect and disconnect using the these so at the moment I am blaming user error.
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Maybe try a smaller size. Awg18 is the limit, maybe that‘s the reason it is so hard to get them out, because there is no scope?!
 
D

dnt420

Well-Known Member
ANC said:
The 56s work out a few pennies more but heatsinking options are more numerous.
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I want to go with a flat thin alluminium sink, the typical 25centigrade on the datasheet are really the pro of these stripes imo, do you think I might have dissipation problems running them at 1A ?
 
Serva

Serva

Well-Known Member
dnt420 said:
56cm or 1m long? how strong will you run them? I want to make a board with 8 56cm stripes, run them at 1A each, parallel wiring, what do you think ? what is gonna be your setup?
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I got the 1ft strips ;)

And I will run them at 350ma (nominal current) and 175ma (50%), in a series + parallel combination. So the strips on the side will have more power, than the strips in the middle. Powered by HVGC-100-350. But I could also just make 3 panels with 14 strips each, all in series. Have not decided yet. The next half year I will use them for vegetable anyways, so I don‘t care that much.
 
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dnt420

Well-Known Member
Serva said:
I got the 1ft strips ;)

And I will run them at 350ma (nominal current) and 175ma (50%), in a series + parallel combination. So the strips on the side will have more power, than the strips in the middle. Powered by HVGC-100-350
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Why so low ? What are the benefits?
 
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