DIY with Quantum Boards

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down to.roach

Member
619kt619 said:
Thank you sir,
The 'wagos' are actually junction boxes made for wagos, but yeah they are big (it is the smaller of two models as well). I used 2 wire and I wanted to be able to quick disconnect the fixture and remove it so that foliar spraying would be simple. And I don't have the fixture grounded atm but from what everyone says about meanwell drivers they pretty much take care of all safety concerns. But I do plan on grounding the fixture at some point.​
Click to expand...
Meanwll driver's outer case is grounded. Your fixture will be grounded if the driver makes good contact with the frame. I took a multimeter to the frame, it takes really good contact to get a reading.
Your drivers are mounted remotely as far as I can tell (the quick connects, right..). If so, it means your fixture is not grounded to anything.
Furthermore, some driver's cases are anodized (like Stephenj37826 explained it once on gml), that means they not conductive and mounting the driver to the frame won't help. For this reason, any shorts on the board or cob itself won't pass to the frame through the heatsink as it's anodized.
Be safe and be informed my friend.
 
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down to.roach

Member
619kt619 said:
Thank you sir,
The 'wagos' are actually junction boxes made for wagos, but yeah they are big (it is the smaller of two models as well). I used 2 wire and I wanted to be able to quick disconnect the fixture and remove it so that foliar spraying would be simple. And I don't have the fixture grounded atm but from what everyone says about meanwell drivers they pretty much take care of all safety concerns. But I do plan on grounding the fixture at some point.​
Click to expand...
Oh shoot, I have someone else's build in my head. Your build does not even have a frame.. And I'm trying to convince you to ground it!
Note to self: Do not reply when fried :eyesmoke:
I don't see any need to ground your fixtures.
Also, the note I made about the heatsinks not being conductive because of the anodizing layer, I was repeating it but when I tested the sinks, I could get conductivity some of the time. Maybe I pierced the anodizing layer or maybe it's the layer's thickness or quality that allowed it or maybe it's total BS..
Can someone chime in and explain, maybe Steven himself.
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
There's no need to ground the DC side.

down to.roach said:
Meanwll driver's outer case is grounded. Your fixture will be grounded if the driver makes good contact with the frame. I took a multimeter to the frame, it takes really good contact to get a reading.
Your drivers are mounted remotely as far as I can tell (the quick connects, right..). If so, it means your fixture is not grounded to anything.
Furthermore, some driver's cases are anodized (like Stephenj37826 explained it once on gml), that means they not conductive and mounting the driver to the frame won't help. For this reason, any shorts on the board or cob itself won't pass to the frame through the heatsink as it's anodized.
Be safe and be informed my friend.
Click to expand...
 
M

magik1953

Active Member
Humple said:
Sounds about right to me. That's about 15"x15" (sorry, I like to convert to Imperial); I'm running about 80 watts in a 19"x23" space, and I haven't had a need to turn it up yet. Only about a week into flowering though. Also, keep in mind that the height of your space matters too. If you don't have much headroom, you may not be able to run at 75w without stressing the plants.
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Thanks Humple :)

The tent will be 140cm tall.

Do you think that this will be enough headroom?
 
Budzbuddha

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Sad rainy days ....

Quantum Nursery -

Gonna be chopping a couple at end of this week ... So I decided to pop a few more beans. The Peyote Cookies and Candy Dream are looking good ..... Gave those a quick foliar with Optic Foliar Overdrive ...

That god damn white dwarf is growing, but very slowly. I MAY cull that one if she isn't gonna get better after another week.

Anyways.... I started another Blue Dream - Candy and some mystery seed.

image.jpeg

I also am " hydrating " two others - Jack Herer and La Fruita di Venus .
I get them partially soaked for a couple hours in their breeder bags , then plant in soil.
I get a pretty high success rate this way instead of in a shot glass for 24 hours. Even if they don't sink in bag , I still plant . A mini zip method. I have done it this way with multi beans of same strain in bag .......

image.jpeg

Plans are to use a 4000k QB for initial growth and veg. Then 3000k/3500k mix for flower.
I have the boards complete and just need to run the 18 guage patch cable to the quick disconnect sockets .... I use these also on my other rigs for both power and dimmer wires.
They are rated up to 300v . And are ridiculously easy to use. The driver will be remote mounted ( on a board ) . Power for the rig will be plugged into a power strip that has individual on / off switches to each outlet ... Like this one ... Wall mounted.

image.jpeg

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

I can't stop tinkering with QBs .... Lol.
 
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PhenoMenal

PhenoMenal

Well-Known Member
So we're now 420 pages into this thread ... quantum boards are totally new to me (and no doubt a lot of others seeing as theyre a 2017 thing)... I'd love to hear the PROS and CONS of quantum boards?, for those of us who haven't had the chance to read through all 420 pages :) thankyou! and we thank you for being the first to try them for the rest of us :)
 
M

mjduke420

Well-Known Member
PhenoMenal said:
So we're now 420 pages into this thread ... quantum boards are totally new to me (and no doubt a lot of others seeing as theyre a 2017 thing)... I'd love to hear the PROS and CONS of quantum boards?, for those of us who haven't had the chance to read through all 420 pages :) thankyou! and we thank you for being the first to try them for the rest of us :)
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I've been following this thread since early last year, but only very recently ordered a kit. (2 board 260w kit coming today!)

My current light is a Mars 600 @~240 actual watts.

The only cons I can see some people having is wiring up the boards, but considering all of the work HLG has put into diagrams and responding to peoples questions in this thread, it's pretty much a non-issue. The other issue I could see is price for some budget growers, as a kit is more expensive than a blurple or other cheap chinese LED.

That said, you get what you pay for and in this case it's efficiency. It was the biggest draw for me as even a Mars will get warm in the summer and I know it's not putting out a great amount of light for the actual wattage used. I'm looking forward to having cooler tents, and not worrying about the fans on my fixture burning out and killing the board. For those on MH/HPS the power saving alone should be one of their best qualities.
 
PhenoMenal

PhenoMenal

Well-Known Member
mjduke420 said:
but considering all of the work HLG has put into diagrams and responding to peoples questions in this thread
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btw i just want to reiterate about HLG what i said in reply to another thread, because they deserve every credit...:

ps. Massive respect to the team at HLG!!! :) It's very admirable how you've not only started the whole "quantum board phenomenon" (you've probably done more to promote Samsung's 561C's than Samsung has lol :)), but also been very respectful about people's DIY's which is extra-commendable and embraces the community spirit, and from all reports your Tech Support is excellent too :)
 
pop22

pop22

Well-Known Member
Cons? They never have enough stock.......lol!

PhenoMenal said:
So we're now 420 pages into this thread ... quantum boards are totally new to me (and no doubt a lot of others seeing as theyre a 2017 thing)... I'd love to hear the PROS and CONS of quantum boards?, for those of us who haven't had the chance to read through all 420 pages :) thankyou! and we thank you for being the first to try them for the rest of us :)
Click to expand...
 
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