DIY with Quantum Boards

pop22

Well-Known Member
for $40 - $50 you can get a Meanwell driver rather than use that junk you have. I got an HLG80H-54 for $35.00 and it runs one QB 288 at close to 100 watts, perfect IMO for a single light

I have a fairly small grow box (1.5x2x3) for a personal stealth grow with 150w Mars reflector in it. It grows descent but gets fairly hot, so we know I can get more. I'm currently testing a cheap Growstar 150w epiled ufo with a 30w Cob but I don't think it will be much better (doesn't visually look brighter and it's loud yet marginally cooler). I just saw a 288 QB for 75 and after some reading, I'm thinking that's the way to go to take full advantage of my small space with less downsides (better light, less heat, less noise). I'm thinking, I can mount the driver outside of the the grow box for reduced heat if necessary.

My question is, can I use the drivers from the Mars reflector 150? There are two switches for flower and grow connected to 2 separate drivers (one driver is labeled 50w. The light claims a draw of 100w). Could I also use the heatsink that comes with the reflector (11.5x10)? Looks like I can screw off the led panels. There is also a driver connected to a 120mm fan. Would it be possible if necessary, to chain these drivers together for better 288QB support? Is 288 over kill for the mentioned space? Thanks for any insight.
 

hybridway2

Amare Shill
Yeah, roughly 940grams it should end up been. From just the 2x 260w kits. These were vegged from clone for 7 weeks ish. I was trying to replicate a grow a while back which I pulled 2.2lb from my cob side (which is nearly 200w more power), so gave them extra veg time and supper cropped the shit out of them to fill the canopy better. :o
Normally I veg for 5 weeks from clone and haven't pulled less than 1.5lb from the Quantum board side. But like I say I was trying to really push it this run, seems to have worked!
That's crazy. Do you have a journal for this grow? Wowzers.
 

NexusP

Active Member
in order to use the driver I think more info is needed volts current and watts. i dont think anyone can honestly answer with just watts provided to know if they would be compatible.
for your space though I would use 2 or 3 of the hlg 65 fixtures

no heatsink is needed on them whereas on the qb288's HLG recomends a heatsink if driven over 50watts.

The two main drivers are identical and this is all the info on the driver label.

50w
In: AC 100v-240v (48/60hz)
Out: DC 55v-100v (0.55-0.6a)

Additional info on the housing label:

Power consumption 90w +- 5%
Voltage 85-265v
Frequency 50/60hz
Ampere 0.87a/110v, 0.42a/220v

I looked at the other light you suggested. It says it is for clones and vegging. They should work for flowering in my space? The completed unit sells for $99. I see that the QB120 that it contains sells fo $29. It would be awesome if I could use the Mars reflector drivers for 2 of those. If not, could I chain 2 boards to a single meanwell HLG80H-54?
 

coreywebster

Well-Known Member
That's crazy. Do you have a journal for this grow? Wowzers.
I don't I'm afraid, I rarely even upload pictures. Been illegal and all. I did have some pics of this crop about mid way through flower but when my neighbour got raided I deleted everything on my laptop.
But you can see what sort of canopy they had from the pic of the blue dream on the other half of the tent, pretty much the same. I will try and post a pic of that grow every now and again and report on that harvest when finished. I'm switching them over to the quantum board side tomorrow. :bigjoint:
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
I have a fairly small grow box (1.5x2x3) for a personal stealth grow with 150w Mars reflector in it. It grows descent but gets fairly hot, so we know I can get more. I'm currently testing a cheap Growstar 150w epiled ufo with a 30w Cob but I don't think it will be much better (doesn't visually look brighter and it's loud yet marginally cooler). I just saw a 288 QB for 75 and after some reading, I'm thinking that's the way to go to take full advantage of my small space with less downsides (better light, less heat, less noise). I'm thinking, I can mount the driver outside of the the grow box for reduced heat if necessary.

My question is, can I use the drivers from the Mars reflector 150? There are two switches for flower and grow connected to 2 separate drivers (one driver is labeled 50w. The light claims a draw of 100w). Could I also use the heatsink that comes with the reflector (11.5x10)? Looks like I can screw off the led panels. There is also a driver connected to a 120mm fan. Would it be possible if necessary, to chain these drivers together for better 288QB support? Is 288 over kill for the mentioned space? Thanks for any insight.
Forget those Chinese drivers ... For the QB 288 , grab a HLG 120h 54 and you are golden. The single 288 will blow that old light out of the water.

Or even their popular QB 120 kits ... They are phenomenal little lights.

I built a Mars conversion light but just for shits and giggles , you are better off grabbing a 288 and buy a meanwell driver as listed ... That's all you need.

Once you get your grows done you can buy another exact one like it and grow up to a 3x3 space without any effort. Sell the other shit or throw it in garage ... Not worth really cutting corners on a build.
 

ganjamystic

Well-Known Member
That's what threw me off. The 300 fixture is more then the 320xl and it has 1 less board but costs more.
Idk if the 300 is using better/newer chips or something?
same boards, same chips.. the 320 xl is cheaper because it's a kit.. the hlg 300 is more expensive because it is a pre-assembled plug and play fixture.. in the end those are two different lights though.. the 320 xl is 3 boards end to end lengthwise on a long triple heatsink and its max is 340w... the kit that is pretty much the exact same thing as the hlg 300 is the 260w xw qb kit, which is $349... that one is like the hlg 300 with 2 boards side by side on a wide heatsink and a max of 285w.. you can also get them pre-assembled from growers lights for an extra $25
 

hydrohaz

Active Member
It seems my plants are maturing a little faster under these QBs. Anyone else noticed the same? I normally start reducing feed ppm about 2 weeks before I plan to chop but it’s a few days before 2 weeks and I’ve already got about 5-10% Amber. Normally chop at 20%
 

NexusP

Active Member
Forget those Chinese drivers ... For the QB 288 , grab a HLG 120h 54 and you are golden. The single 288 will blow that old light out of the water.

Or even their popular QB 120 kits ... They are phenomenal little lights.

I built a Mars conversion light but just for shits and giggles , you are better off grabbing a 288 and buy a meanwell driver as listed ... That's all you need.

Once you get your grows done you can buy another exact one like it and grow up to a 3x3 space without any effort. Sell the other shit or throw it in garage ... Not worth really cutting corners on a build.
I spent a lot on diy organic soil and other components so I wanted to see if I could shave some cost for now. I do plan on getting a proper driver, but i would like to use what I have for now. Was there a risk to your light using the Mars driver? I can at least expect the light will not perform at its best, but there are other benefits in the interim. The boards are out of stock again so I may be able to get the proper driver by the time they are available again. Do you think the drivers I have would at least work with a 120 QB?
.
 

Norml56

Well-Known Member
Forget those Chinese drivers ... For the QB 288 , grab a HLG 120h 54 and you are golden. The single 288 will blow that old light out of the water.

Or even their popular QB 120 kits ... They are phenomenal little lights.

I built a Mars conversion light but just for shits and giggles , you are better off grabbing a 288 and buy a meanwell driver as listed ... That's all you need.

Once you get your grows done you can buy another exact one like it and grow up to a 3x3 space without any effort. Sell the other shit or throw it in garage ... Not worth really cutting corners on a build.
I'm running 2 288's on one 320HLG 54b Driver. Was listed as OK on the HLG website even tho they are technically overdriving the boards by a few watts. I have air movement across the heat sinks and that seems to be keeping the temps in a comfortable realm.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
I spent a lot on diy organic soil and other components so I wanted to see if I could shave some cost for now. I do plan on getting a proper driver, but i would like to use what I have for now. Was there a risk to your light using the Mars driver? I can at least expect the light will not perform at its best, but there are other benefits in the interim. The boards are out of stock again so I may be able to get the proper driver by the time they are available again. Do you think the drivers I have would at least work with a 120 QB?
.
Contact @robincnn and @Stephenj37826 for specifics of your build .
They will offer the options available for you and your space. They are deeply invested in their product offerings and will guide you before and after purchase.

I suggest getting on their mailing list to alert you on board availability.
 
anyone can help me with some question on quantum? Can't read the whole 424 pages.
What is the best setup for a 3.5x3.5 tent? 3-4 QB boards?
Is it correct that the best case is to run one board at 120W ?
Whats the difference between QB 288 and QB 304?
What is the best type for flowering and vegetative? 3000k for flower and 4000k for veg?
Is there any temperature that is good for veg AND flower? I remember that I've read the Citizen COB @ 3500k are just fine for both. Is this aswell the case for the Quantums?
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
anyone can help me with some question on quantum? Can't read the whole 424 pages.
What is the best setup for a 3.5x3.5 tent? 3-4 QB boards?
Is it correct that the best case is to run one board at 120W ?
Whats the difference between QB 288 and QB 304?
What is the best type for flowering and vegetative? 3000k for flower and 4000k for veg?
Is there any temperature that is good for veg AND flower? I remember that I've read the Citizen COB @ 3500k are just fine for both. Is this aswell the case for the Quantums?

3000k will grow from seed to harvest .... It is the most popular board spectrum .
However any of the spectrum will grow well , I use 3500 and 3000k. I am going to run a 4000k shortly for new seedlings / cuttings .

288 is the number of Samsung diodes on " board " - they are available as 304 /132/120 and in veg strips. You can get away in a 3x3 with a 260w kit or XL.
You can also make a 4 panel rig ( I did this for a 3x3 ) which is a bit overkill but I control output with a potentiometer.

The 2 panel rigs will get you your plants happy as shit. I run 3500k citizens in same rig and they just as my 304 panels ( I was told it equates to a 3500 Cree ).

I did mockups before I began building for the 3x3 but you can get something straight of the shelf from HLG.
image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg

Panels don't " necessarily " have to be at max to perform , this may sound different to those that run HPS at " super lumen " or 100% ballast power. These are very efficient at their " mid power levels " ... Check the website charts where boards run at about 50-60 watts each.

Look at the 120 boards ... Those are killer little boards that are bringing in fire ass buds .
Look at the grows within the thread ... Yes there is a lot of pages , but it's worth it.

Bottom line - reach out directly to @robincnn and @Stephenj37826
They will field questions and point you to the right boards for you.
 
nice, thank you very much. Should I PM those 2 guys or will they just respond in this thread?
Wouldn't it be better if I used 4x QB 120 instead of 2x QB304 in a 3x3 tent?

Do the QB120 require any kind of cooling/heatsink if I run them at 70W per board?

Isn't the 3000k a little too much red for a seed to flower run? wont they struch a little too much too early?
Is the 3000k better for flowering than the 3500k?
 
Top