DIY with Quantum Boards

SCJedi said:
While this is good advice for anything electric, if your fixture is live to the touch you have done something wrong. Stop what you are doing (or trying to do) and hire a qualified electrician.

All of the copper traces are inside the QB288 board and all other wires and connections should be insulated. I will caution everyone that tugging wires though a hole in bare metal does tend to compromise thin wire insulation so you are at risk of a short and shocking yourself (or damaging equipment) if you are not gentle during installation. Once you plug your light in and test it then it is wise to use a voltmeter to see if your board is live but to me that is common sense when doing DIYs.

If you really do not know what you are doing then please hire a qualified electrician. With all parts on hand they should be able build this pretty quickly.
Click to expand...


Thank you
 
I know I can wire both drivers to use one potentiometer, but is it possible to use only one plug for both?

Should I wire the qb288 boards in series or parallel? I'll be running 2 boards per driver.

If I'm not going to use a potentiometer what should I do with the dimmer wires?
 
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MedMonkey said:
I know I can wire both drivers to use one potentiometer, but is it possible to use only one plug for both?

Should I wire the qb288 boards in series or parallel? I'll be running 2 boards per driver.

If I'm not going to use a potentiometer what should I do with the dimmer wires?
Click to expand...
according to HLG website you would want to wire those boards in series based off the driver you chose. I just put wire caps on my dimmer wires.
 
MedMonkey said:
I know I can wire both drivers to use one potentiometer, but is it possible to use only one plug for both?

Should I wire the qb288 boards in series or parallel? I'll be running 2 boards per driver.

If I'm not going to use a potentiometer what should I do with the dimmer wires?
Click to expand...
Yes that's fine and just cap the wires off. If you cap them separately I think you get an extra 100ma or so vs connecting them. But I haven't used a b series in a few years so maybe someone else can chime in to confirm.
 
SCJedi said:
While this is good advice for anything electric, if your fixture is live to the touch you have done something wrong. Stop what you are doing (or trying to do) and hire a qualified electrician.

All of the copper traces are inside the QB288 board and all other wires and connections should be insulated. I will caution everyone that tugging wires though a hole in bare metal does tend to compromise thin wire insulation so you are at risk of a short and shocking yourself (or damaging equipment) if you are not gentle during installation. Once you plug your light in and test it then it is wise to use a voltmeter to see if your board is live but to me that is common sense when doing DIYs.

If you really do not know what you are doing then please hire a qualified electrician. With all parts on hand they should be able build this pretty quickly.
Click to expand...
I made my wire holes a little bit bigger and use self-sealing silicon tape to protect the wire.

Ps - maybe someone doesn't want to take a grow light to an electrician?
 
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