New style Samsung LM561C Board

Viceman666

Well-Known Member
Is that the heatsink in the photo you uploaded yesterday? Looks like a double. Can you show us photos of it? Dimensions?
And please, do share what you paid paid for each item..
One last thing, did you ask and were they open to playing with the amounts on the shipping label?

Please know that every answer like this really helps a lot of people looking to approach this.
Im not home but when I get home ill show you pic of the heatsink and yes its a double.. it holds 2 x 304 boards. They were open to it they even said they better put a small amount rather than as a gift (but they can do it if you ask)..
 

Viceman666

Well-Known Member
IMG_3453.JPG IMG_3454.JPG
Im not home but when I get home ill show you pic of the heatsink and yes its a double.. it holds 2 x 304 boards. They were open to it they even said they better put a small amount rather than as a gift (but they can do it if you ask)..
Dimension is 25 inch by 7 3/4 inch
 

PhenoMenal

Well-Known Member
I got this diagram from Meijui (i got the 2 x QB-304's combined on one large heatsink), but I just have two questions about it (in red).

So, is it ok as shown in the diagram? I'm just a bit nervous about first time electronics and don't want to blow up an expensive board. I'll be able to start putting it together possibly later tonight or tomorrow :)

ps. I asked if it should be series or parallel (which it is in the diagram), they said:
"the driver is HLG-240H-C2100B, 59-119V, 2100mA, cause the board is 102-114V, 480mA-1200mA, so it's to be parallel, it's the best economic solution for this board"

[diagram removed - see a couple replies down for correct one]
 
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HamNEggs

Well-Known Member
If you order from them just be very careful to request all the items they plan to ship in the kit. I spent a portion of the day in email with Kitty and they were going to sell me this same kit but were attempting to sub in a HLG-240H-C1400B instead of the HLG-240H-C2100B. I only noticed this on the potential invoice and it wasn't until I asked about it did I find out they were out of stock on the C2100B until late February. At least this is what I was told.
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
I got this diagram from Meijui (i got the 2 x QB-304's combined on one large heatsink), but I just have two questions about it (in red).

So, is it ok as shown in the diagram? I'm just a bit nervous about first time electronics and don't want to blow up an expensive board. I'll be able to start putting it together possibly later tonight or tomorrow :)

ps. I asked if it should be series or parallel (which it is in the diagram), they said:
"the driver is HLG-240H-C2100B, 59-119V, 2100mA, cause the board is 102-114V, 480mA-1200mA, so it's to be parallel, it's the best economic solution for this board"



Think about it, current will always pass through the route of least resistance.
If you connected the + to the - you will in effect be throwing a crowbar over the battery terminals if the power source was a battery.
 

PhenoMenal

Well-Known Member
thankyou, but are you saying the diagram is ok, or that i need to switch the two connections over at the driver?
 

PhenoMenal

Well-Known Member
beautiful, thanks all for assistance!!! :) :) Hopefully that diagram helps others too. My breadboard hasnt arrived yet so I can't start experimenting with electronics yet... but at least now I can put together my light!! will start with the 6500k veg one first, i think id rather make mistakes on that than the 3000k flower board :eyesmoke:
... I'm still gonna wear safety glasses and have a fire blanket nearby when i first turn it on though haha, electricity spooks me a bit, i don't even lick 9V batteries. Then when i get my breadboard and potentiometer I look forward to adding dimming capability... (should've got the A driver with the built-in one instead! next time). IM EXCITED
 
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PhenoMenal

Well-Known Member
Just taking advantage of the hole drilled in the middle to keep the wiring neat. The connector wires that came with it hold their shape nicely so they can be easily moulded/bent to keep away from the LEDs, sweet

Topside

Underside
 

PhenoMenal

Well-Known Member
Nearly there, all the Wago connectors are done, and 3 of the 4 'board connectors' are pushed and locked in nicely...

BUT on the 4th and final board connector it's misbehaving! I push and push hard but it just bends the copper wire end, and doesn't secure it ... any ideas? Am i supposed to push down or pull up on part of it when doing this, or flip it up Wago-style? Or are they "just push in"?

This is the only thing left to do before i can turn it on! I tried a couple wires but it seems to be the connector thing (red arrow in pic), but im not even sure what it's called so i can't google it. Semi-panic!

 
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ANC

Well-Known Member
Lift up the middle part like a little lid, careful not to hurt the hinge.
Make sure your wire has a nice blunt tip with no burrs.
 

PhenoMenal

Well-Known Member
Lift up the middle part like a little lid, careful not to hurt the hinge.
I ended up accidentally breaking the hinge off, didnt take much pressure though ... the internals seemed to show to me that it seems a blob of solder is preventing the 'gates' from moving ... even with needlenose plyers they werent moving ... I ordered a soldering iron last week so should be here this week, so maybe hopefully i can 'dab' it to let the wire in.

I'll email Meijui about this problem - apart from this issue i'm happy so far (delivered quick, well packaged, genuine lm561c's, full 'kit' with everything required, solderless DIY, good tech support). I still have the 3000k flower board waiting for hookup also, so I'll test that next

[update] just tried the other board, the exact same problem in the exact same spot :( will await Meijiu email. Their tech support has so far actually been pretty good for the most part
 
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Viceman666

Well-Known Member
I ended up accidentally breaking the hinge off, didnt take much pressure though ... the internals seemed to show to me that it seems a blob of solder is preventing the 'gates' from moving ... even with needlenose plyers they werent moving ... I ordered a soldering iron last week so should be here this week, so maybe hopefully i can 'dab' it to let the wire in.

I'll email Meijui about this problem - apart from this issue i'm happy so far (delivered quick, well packaged, genuine lm561c's, full 'kit' with everything required, solderless DIY, good tech support). I still have the 3000k flower board waiting for hookup also, so I'll test that next

[update] just tried the other board, the exact same problem in the exact same spot :( will await Meijiu email. Their tech support has so far actually been pretty good for the most part
Sorry to hear that my boards seem to work fine.. id go with this set up (graph from hlg website) the one at the bottom so you put your driver to the + and - on one end and just make a little wire from + to + and - to - between the boards.. thats what look the cleanest and you may be able to avoid using the broken hinge! They do provide long cable so ive cut mine to match the distance between the 2 boards.. Keep us posted! IMG_3455.PNG
 

Viceman666

Well-Known Member
I can't remove the other 'board connector' wires though because once pushed in they're self/auto-locked in! :(
I push mine in and took them out multiple times without any problem they "self lock in" yes but you can still take them out.. be careful because you dont seem to have been very lucky so far lol but it has been a breeze for me.. ive push in and out multiple times (tried to wire them in series first but light wouldnt turn on) so move to parallel
 

PhenoMenal

Well-Known Member
be careful because you dont seem to have been very lucky so far lol but it has been a breeze for me
the other 3 board connectors were a breeze for me too, just this 1 (and on both boards, same position) being a problem. All other positions seemingly ok.
 
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