did I do this COB build right?

[ILoveYouSweetLeaf]

OMFG I am so excited. I live in Vermont and on July 1st 2018 it will be legal to grow 2 mature and 4 immature plants.

I have a 2ft deep x 3ft wide x 6ft high area ready now, that I am gonna use for flowering/veg. I have 2x mars2 400 lights (one has 1/3 the diodes out, the other maybe a fifth out). Well I want to get rid of those pieces of junk and DIY. I want to make my main flowering light. if this project works out then make a light for veg area.

After doing my research I fully understand how beneficial getting the best light possible for max results. I know most commercial lights are hyped snake oil. however My wife says she wont believe spending $800-900 dollars on a DIY setup makes more sense, instead of buying a mars hydro for $200 or 2 for $400. until I show her the evidence. Because LED tech can be so overwhelming, I would appreciate it if you people would fact check my ideas on my DIY rig. So I do not waste money and the wife will listen to me next time when I want to make the veg light next.

gonna use extruded aluminum for the frame I think
8 x 140mm pin fin heatsinks for (passive cooling)
6 x Cree CXB3590 CD top bin for CRI 80 3500k 36v
2 x Cree CXB3590 DD top bin for CRI 70 6500k 36v
8 x Ideal 50-2303CR LED holder
2 x Mean Well HLG-320H-C2100B
2 x Cased Potentiometer with Knob (Chilled Connect Version)

my questions/concerns

1) will it work or blow up? I'm gonna run 3x(3500k)+1(6500K) per driver. each driver says its listed
Output Voltage (DC) :76-152V (4x36=144volts) so believe it should run 4 with a little room to spare.
Max Output Current :2100mA.... which means at full current it will drive my 36volt cobs at 75.6 watts.
I intend to try to run the cobs at 50watts or below for max efficiency/cost depending what the plants want.
I went with the 2100ma model instead of the 1750ma model so I could crank up the wattage on maybe the last couple weeks of flower to sacrifice a little efficiency for photons. I'm confident ive done this right, but I'm not $800 dollars confident. (so I ask you,, will this work as intended or blow up my driver or chips?)

2)wanna run this as passive cooling, my heatsinks list as Max Power Dissipation :~70-80W depending on ambient temperature.... so this is within range of cooling for max drive current of 2100ma ?

3) I want to run 3x(3500k) chips and 1x(6500k) figuring the 3500k is good for all around but better for flower and the 1x(6500k) throw in will help prevent stretching of the plants. (this right?)

4)not sure what POTS to use for dimming. don't know if the ones I have listed are safe or will work.

5)PWM controllers. the one I see on rapidLED is $200 bucks. is there anything good out there cheaper?

BTW I'm aware this might be a little much for a 2x3 space, but it allows me to run softer if it is too much. and I intend to put this light in bigger area once I can build a room. and use this 2x3 space for vegging. until then this will be my main light and area.
I do hope the difference in quality and quantity I expect from upgrading pans out and I can justify it to the misses.

thanks for any help or info.
did I mention it will be legal come july 1st ?

 

[HydoDan]

www.cobkits.com. Crees are too expensive now... Luminus cxm 22

 

[Victor6634]

Go with Vero 29

 

[ILoveYouSweetLeaf]

looking at the specs for CXM22s, don't they put out less, 2.5 times less photons per cob? wouldn't the cxm22s also need more drivers then the cxbs ? 19 dollars vs 32 dollars for cxb. if I'm looking at stats right of the chips, I would need 2.5 cxms for the same light output as 1 cxb.

I will still look around at things you suggest.

the 2 most Important questions for me is did I match the cobs and drivers right (will cobs or driver blow) , and will it react as I expect. with dimming. like will the dimming switch give me OFF control and all the way up to 75watt cobb intensity (2100ma x 36v) like I think it will. if I did do it right with these cxbs then I know I can match drivers to whatever LED product I finally decide on. (am leaning towards 3590s)
and my Kelvin cob mix,,,, do you think 3 x 3500k mixed with 1 x 6500k PER plant is a good freq mix.

BTW: I know not buying the best (like buying mars2) will cost me in quality and quantity. and at local prices. getting 4 extra ounces for just ONE SINGLE grow will pay for the lights. So please only suggest good quality like vero29/cree's/QBs/cxm22. I will NEVER waste my money on Chinese junk lights like Mars again. Even seeing those adverts pisses me off. I have a limited number of plants allowed, time and space. so getting the best from what I have is important. So I know in the end getting the best saves me money (a lot) and gives me better quality at the same time.

thanks for replies

 

[3GT]

Check out ledgardens example builds using strips http://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux/

You could use 2' strips to cover the 2'x3' area and also run side lighting as well if you want the most out of 2 plants?

 

[Chip Green]

I will still look around at things you suggest

The "lamps" I'm using are built with 15x Bridgelux EB series 2'(560mm) strips @700ma, draw 274w, from the wall, on a 36" frame, generate 50,000+ LUX at 8" above the canopy, with ZERO heatsink. The voltage drop at full operating temp is less than 1V with a MW 240H-C700B, never had an infared temp check exceed 115f.....
And that's with the Gen1 EB series.....

Just to add further confusion to your design research....

 

[ILoveYouSweetLeaf]

The "lamps" I'm using are built with 15x Bridgelux EB series 2'(560mm) strips @700ma, draw 274w, from the wall, on a 36" frame, generate 50,000+ LUX at 8" above the canopy, with ZERO heatsink. The voltage drop at full operating temp is less than 1V with a MW 240H-C700B, never had an infared temp check exceed 115f.....
And that's with the Gen1 EB series.....

Just to add further confusion to your design research....

I am obsessive and feel I need to learn everything about the subject I'm trying to understand. So yes it will and has, added to my confusion.

ive already looked into Cree/vero29/QB/strips, the CXM22s are new info to me. so that should take me about 10-20 hours of research.

after looking into LEDs more lately I can see why ppl are nervous about learning about it all. there is SOOO much info to know. I love complex stuff luckily. and I have 2-4 weeks before tax refund comes to research more, up until I gotta pull the trigger.

 

[Chip Green]

You definitely are headed in the right direction, and its evident you already have a solid base of knowledge on the subject.
You may already know this..... Those MARS units have drivers inside of them, new emitters can be matched for repurposing in the future....I mean your already stuck with them.... There are MARS Hack threads around, if you already haven't seen em.....

 

[Danielson999]

First of all you only need half the power you're thinking about putting in there.

The first choice I'd make is getting 3 of the single 135w QB kits and hang each one sideways as opposed to lengthwise so you get the best coverage. You could get away with 2 but if you get 3 you'll get better coverage and you can turn them down a bit an increase efficiency.

The second choice is DIY'ing a build using 560mm led strips from either Samsung or Bridgelux. This choice really lowers your upfront cost since you only need some simple 1" aluminum angle to form your heatsink/frame.

My last choice would be a cob build using 2 150w meanwell drivers. One to run 4 cobs (4000K or higher for veg) and the other driver would have 4 cobs of 2700K or 1750K. Keep the 2700K off when starting your seedlings and early veg, turn on all cobs for last couple weeks of veg and flowreing.
Or skip all that BS and just use one 320w meanwell driver and 6 cobs of your choice on a dimmer.

 

[CobKits]

looking at the specs for CXM22s, don't they put out less, 2.5 times less photons per cob?

no they are at least as bright as a CXB at all wattages

wouldn't the cxm22s also need more drivers then the cxbs ?

no there are all kinds of drivers. 50V x 1400 mA is about the same as 36V x 2100 mA

if I'm looking at stats right of the chips, I would need 2.5 cxms for the same light output as 1 cxb.

sounds like you are misreading it. both chips top out around ~130W max

 

[nfhiggs]

BTW I'm aware this might be a little much for a 2x3 space

Ya think? That's 100W per square foot. A good efficient LED setup only needs 30-35W per square foot. Cut everything by half and you've still got more light than you need, and the wife will be MUCH happier with a $400 price tag. Happy wife, happy life.

FWIW, I'd suggest filling that space with 200W of Samsung 22" strips. Much cheaper and easier to build. I'm running 250W in a 2x4 space and got 9 ounces from the last plant - after bud rot losses.

 

[VegasWinner]

Use a C1400B driver for best results instead of a C2100B driver. 50w/cob is best for your setup and cobs vice 75w/cob

 

[thetr33man]

Dump the 6500k cobs and use 4000k for veg and 3000 or 3500k for flower... Also the samsung F strips are worth looking into...

 

[OLD MOTHER SATIVA]

just get the cmx 22's

 

[ILoveYouSweetLeaf]

You definitely are headed in the right direction, and its evident you already have a solid base of knowledge on the subject.
You may already know this..... Those MARS units have drivers inside of them, new emitters can be matched for repurposing in the future....I mean your already stuck with them.... There are MARS Hack threads around, if you already haven't seen em.....

yeah I've seen growmau5's 1-7(3 is missing) cobb diy series and his MARS conversion video. I plan on reusing the shell of the Mars if not some of the guts.

Ya think? That's 100W per square foot. A good efficient LED setup only needs 30-35W per square foot. Cut everything by half and you've still got more light than you need, and the wife will be MUCH happier with a $400 price tag. Happy wife, happy life.

FWIW, I'd suggest filling that space with 200W of Samsung 22" strips. Much cheaper and easier to build. I'm running 250W in a 2x4 space and got 9 ounces from the last plant - after bud rot losses.

that part made me chuckle. I'm already dreaming of lights beyond this one. cheaper I like. easier to build doesn't sound like as much fun.


cxb3590 I have heard are good, from others I have heard they're are old tech. some tell me to use strips. others tell me to use citizen. others aros. others quantum boards, cmx22. I am starting to get the feeling that there is no one best solution, no one BEST product on the market that will deliver the best/most amount of light per watt. a clear winner. that's whats most important. what chip/ solution will give me the most light. is there one? or is it all personal preference? are they all that close in results its a toss up ?​

 

[thetr33man]

I rebuilt my mars400 using citizen 1212 cobs, old drivers, heasink. Pretty easy to do, way more light for about $70 in parts...

 

[ILoveYouSweetLeaf]

Use a C1400B driver for best results instead of a C2100B driver. 50w/cob is best for your setup and cobs vice 75w/cob

-------------
HLG-320H-C2100 CURRENT ADJ. RANGE= 1050 ~ 2100mA --- 76 ~ 152v (x4 cxb3590)
would let me adjust my light intensity between 37.8w/per cobb or 151.2 watts at the wall. up to 75.6w/per cobb or 302.4 watts at the wall.
HLG-320H-C1400 current adj range= 700 ~ 1400ma ----114 ~ 229v (x4 cxb3590)
adjust between 25.2w/per cobb 108.8w at wall. to 50.4w/per cobb or 201.6w at wall.
i am planning on building these modular so each set of 4 cobbs/driver is its seperate light with its own rack/grounding/potentiometer. and i might just decide to seperate the 2 modular sets and use 1 part in the veg area once i can get that room set up. and drive the whole 8 cobbs soft until then and then run 1 4xcobb fixture in veg area 1 in flower.
the C2100 gives me light fixtures that i can crank up the watts to 302watts during last 2-3 weeks of flower. instead of just 201watts using the C1400.

new to diy leds. am I looking at it wrong?


once flower and veg areas are set. I will most likely DIY and upgrade the MARS for her rack of house plants under CFLs. the Mars LEDs may suck, but I kinda like its case.

 

[Chip Green]

I am starting to get the feeling that there is no one best solution, no one BEST product on the market that will deliver the best/most amount of light per watt

I've said this many times in this forum....
It used to be, you bought a light and built the space to fit IT.... Today, one can determine the available space, and build the light to meet the needs of the area.....

SO many variables, and options, it can be maddening to pick a direction.

 

[VegasWinner]

-------------
HLG-320H-C2100 CURRENT ADJ. RANGE= 1050 ~ 2100mA --- 76 ~ 152v (x4 cxb3590)
would let me adjust my light intensity between 37.8w/per cobb or 151.2 watts at the wall. up to 75.6w/per cobb or 302.4 watts at the wall.
HLG-320H-C1400 current adj range= 700 ~ 1400ma ----114 ~ 229v (x4 cxb3590)
adjust between 25.2w/per cobb 108.8w at wall. to 50.4w/per cobb or 201.6w at wall.
i am planning on building these modular so each set of 4 cobbs/driver is its seperate light with its own rack/grounding/potentiometer. and i might just decide to seperate the 2 modular sets and use 1 part in the veg area once i can get that room set up. and drive the whole 8 cobbs soft until then and then run 1 4xcobb fixture in veg area 1 in flower.
the C2100 gives me light fixtures that i can crank up the watts to 302watts during last 2-3 weeks of flower. instead of just 201watts using the C1400.

new to diy leds. am I looking at it wrong?


once flower and veg areas are set. I will most likely DIY and upgrade the MARS for her rack of house plants under CFLs. the Mars LEDs may suck, but I kinda like its case.

Look at the current flow, than the watts. You have a cxb3590 cob that drives at 36v and provides more lumens at lower amperage. The setup you speak of is normally a 50w/cob approach. you can use a 240 or 320H driver rated at 1400mA for more watts per driver. A 240H drives 240w and a 320H drives 300w. The max amp for the cob setup you propose is 1400mA x 36v = 50w. Heat sinks, pasive are designed for 50w for a reason, most common usage.

 

[ILoveYouSweetLeaf]

Ok. thanks all thoughts/ideas.
Light is built and running next to me. I want to run it all day outside of grow room to keep an eye on temps and problems before I deploy it in a closed room. I do have an automatic fire extinguisher in the grow closet all the time, called flame defender.

decided to build aluminum angle frame 2'x3' (space is actually 26"x40").
6 rapidled 140mm passive pin fin heatsinks (using auto infrared thermometer, all heatsinks show 55-93F. (depending on potentiometer setting)(this is in cold basement, not sure if I should worry about summer heat with getting these temps in winter.)
6 cxm-22 3500K 80CRI with reflectors
potentiometer
meanwell HLG320H-C1050B (grounded to frame)
all connections soldered

should give me anywhere between 28-50watts per cob

about 2 weeks into flower. maybe I still have time to save these girls from the evil blurple.

cant wait till july 1st. gonna try some seeds I have saved for maybe 20-30 years. Lambs breath/bread. got 3 or 4 seeds. don't expect them to sprout. just hoping, LOVED that smoke.

BTW what temps should I worry about with these heatsinks (passive only).