5000k or 3000k lights?

kdt15

Active Member
I recall some discussion about these color temps for lights and one wsas better than the other for veg and for flower. Does anyone have experience or knowledge on which one goes to which?

also, would making my own light set up with a mixture of thes 5000k and 3000k together be a bad idea for just doing a "set and forget" and use it for both flower and veg, or is it better to specialize in each and swap plants to a different light source when the time is right?
 

Humple

Well-Known Member
I recall some discussion about these color temps for lights and one wsas better than the other for veg and for flower. Does anyone have experience or knowledge on which one goes to which?

also, would making my own light set up with a mixture of thes 5000k and 3000k together be a bad idea for just doing a "set and forget" and use it for both flower and veg, or is it better to specialize in each and swap plants to a different light source when the time is right?
I'm a big fan of one spectrum from start to finish. Go 3500k or 3000k. They veg perfectly fine and flower amazingly.
 

Joint Monster

Well-Known Member
I just finished a build myself. 18x 3K and 6x 5K.
Check out my thread you may find some useful information. GBAuto and others helped me out a lot! :)
https://www.rollitup.org/t/please-help-plan-mini-rdwc-room-lighting-ventillation.952330/

I did a ratio of 3:1 (3000K:5000k) .

When you look at sites selling cob led's you will usually notice three measurements/units. i.e.; A Vero29Se Cob would be labelled something like - 3000k 80CRI D. (where there is 70,80,90 CRI. and a few different letter models.)
I believe D stands for 37.7V , there are also fifty-something and seventy-something volt model Cobs.
Consider all three variables when choosing your setup.
 

VegasWinner

Well-Known Member
I recall some discussion about these color temps for lights and one wsas better than the other for veg and for flower. Does anyone have experience or knowledge on which one goes to which?

also, would making my own light set up with a mixture of thes 5000k and 3000k together be a bad idea for just doing a "set and forget" and use it for both flower and veg, or is it better to specialize in each and swap plants to a different light source when the time is right?
I use both for both
 

puffenuff

Well-Known Member
I recall some discussion about these color temps for lights and one wsas better than the other for veg and for flower. Does anyone have experience or knowledge on which one goes to which?

also, would making my own light set up with a mixture of thes 5000k and 3000k together be a bad idea for just doing a "set and forget" and use it for both flower and veg, or is it better to specialize in each and swap plants to a different light source when the time is right?
Mix them homie
 

nfhiggs

Well-Known Member
I recall some discussion about these color temps for lights and one wsas better than the other for veg and for flower. Does anyone have experience or knowledge on which one goes to which?

also, would making my own light set up with a mixture of thes 5000k and 3000k together be a bad idea for just doing a "set and forget" and use it for both flower and veg, or is it better to specialize in each and swap plants to a different light source when the time is right?
IMO, don't bother. When you mix two CCT's you end up with an average of the two. Stephen from HLG has demonstrated this with a spectrometer. Equal amounts of 5000K and 3000K light will just give you approximately 4000K. light. If you mix three to one as suggested above you end up with ~3500K. May as well just use 4000K or 3500K.
 

kdt15

Active Member
I just finished a build myself. 18x 3K and 6x 5K.
Check out my thread you may find some useful information. GBAuto and others helped me out a lot! :)
https://www.rollitup.org/t/please-help-plan-mini-rdwc-room-lighting-ventillation.952330/

I did a ratio of 3:1 (3000K:5000k) .

When you look at sites selling cob led's you will usually notice three measurements/units. i.e.; A Vero29Se Cob would be labelled something like - 3000k 80CRI D. (where there is 70,80,90 CRI. and a few different letter models.)
I believe D stands for 37.7V , there are also fifty-something and seventy-something volt model Cobs.
Consider all three variables when choosing your setup.
have you found it to be better, the 3 to 1 ratio, than just normal builds?
 

kdt15

Active Member
IMO, don't bother. When you mix two CCT's you end up with an average of the two. Stephen from HLG has demonstrated this with a spectrometer. Equal amounts of 5000K and 3000K light will just give you approximately 4000K. light. If you mix three to one as suggested above you end up with ~3500K. May as well just use 4000K or 3500K.
do you have a link to this experiment? would love to see what he did
 

kdt15

Active Member
IMO, don't bother. When you mix two CCT's you end up with an average of the two. Stephen from HLG has demonstrated this with a spectrometer. Equal amounts of 5000K and 3000K light will just give you approximately 4000K. light. If you mix three to one as suggested above you end up with ~3500K. May as well just use 4000K or 3500K.
also can you explain what the K means? i know its kelvin but thats a value for temperature based off celsius linearly. no lights are running at 3000k let alone 5000k! everything would burn up!

for spectrum graphs, im not really sure how to read them. i know 400-700nm is the visible light wavelengths for x axis, but wtf are the values of 0-1 for y axis? cant superimpose 2 graphs if we cant tell what the graph axis is :P
 

mahiluana

Well-Known Member
everything would burn up!
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Color_temperature

To the extent that a hot surface emits thermal radiation but is not an ideal black-body radiator, the color temperature of the light is not the actual temperature of the surface. An incandescent lamp's light is thermal radiation, and the bulb approximates an ideal black-body radiator, so its color temperature is essentially the temperature of the filament. Thus a relatively low temperature emits a dull red and a high temperature emits the almost white of the traditional incandescent light bulb. Metal workers are able to judge the temperature of hot metals by their color, from dark red to orange-white and then white (see red heat).
Many other light sources, such as fluorescent lamps, or LEDs (light emitting diodes) emit light primarily by processes other than thermal radiation. This means that the emitted radiation does not follow the form of a black-body spectrum. These sources are assigned what is known as a correlated color temperature (CCT). CCT is the color temperature of a black-body radiator which to human color perception most closely matches the light from the lamp. Because such an approximation is not required for incandescent light, the CCT for an incandescent light is simply its unadjusted temperature, derived from comparison to a black-body radiator.
 

Joint Monster

Well-Known Member
have you found it to be better, the 3 to 1 ratio, than just normal builds?
I liked the way they fit in my build (the positioning of the various cobs). There was however some research and comparable's I went through to pick that ratio of cobs.... I just don't have the links on hand (some threads, some builds, some informational websites)... Many hours were spent putting it all together. With that said this was a first build so take my advice as you wish.
 
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