Psychadelibuds Underground Laboratory
- Thread starter psychadelibud
- Start date
Normally it's not the best way to cool hoods is to daisey chain them one to the other, as the air pass's one the other it becomes very hot, untill it hits the last light. A 6 inch run will hold around 100 to 125 cuft a min. It can hold more at higher pressures but not to much more.
Flexable duct increases the static pressure because if the heliarc coil in the center.
A much better way to increase air flow to each lamp is to have separate 6 inch runs run individually to a manifold bars, for example if you had 6 -6 inch runs with a total air volume of around 100 cfm each you would try and run 6 rubs as close to even as you can get them , we k ow we have a total of around d 600 cfm so we would know we would need a fan or around600 cfm and a manifold tube of around 12 inch's round to hold the 600 cfm. Both I take and exaust from the fan.
Flexable duct increases the static pressure because if the heliarc coil in the center.
A much better way to increase air flow to each lamp is to have separate 6 inch runs run individually to a manifold bars, for example if you had 6 -6 inch runs with a total air volume of around 100 cfm each you would try and run 6 rubs as close to even as you can get them , we k ow we have a total of around d 600 cfm so we would know we would need a fan or around600 cfm and a manifold tube of around 12 inch's round to hold the 600 cfm. Both I take and exaust from the fan.
I will draw a diagram when I get back.
Duct work should be though of as a bucket, think of it as a two gallon and five gallon bucket, if you took ten gallons of whatever material, water and our pour it into either bucket it will only hold five or two gallons, the rest will not fit and run out on the floor, no matter how hard you try. Duct work is the same way, a given size of duct will only hold so much volume of air at a given pressure. .
When a 6 inch duct run is run from one fan to the other as the air pass's from one bulb to the other the heat from the bulb is transferred to the air at increasing temperatures, if each one of those bulbs requires 100 cuft of air per min and the tube will only accommodate 100 crm of air total what happens to the heat?
It is transferred to the room correct because it can not be evacuated by the amount of airflow through the system .
This is why if for a example we have 6 gallons of air and only a one gallon tube(expressed in CFM) this is what happens, if you have 6 , 6 inch runs and they connect to one run that will hold all the volume of the six, air will move freely and evacuate the heat.
This also destress's the fans or air handlers. They operate at a lower static pressure, drawing less amps and the fan motors and capacitors last longer.
Duct work should be though of as a bucket, think of it as a two gallon and five gallon bucket, if you took ten gallons of whatever material, water and our pour it into either bucket it will only hold five or two gallons, the rest will not fit and run out on the floor, no matter how hard you try. Duct work is the same way, a given size of duct will only hold so much volume of air at a given pressure. .
When a 6 inch duct run is run from one fan to the other as the air pass's from one bulb to the other the heat from the bulb is transferred to the air at increasing temperatures, if each one of those bulbs requires 100 cuft of air per min and the tube will only accommodate 100 crm of air total what happens to the heat?
It is transferred to the room correct because it can not be evacuated by the amount of airflow through the system .
This is why if for a example we have 6 gallons of air and only a one gallon tube(expressed in CFM) this is what happens, if you have 6 , 6 inch runs and they connect to one run that will hold all the volume of the six, air will move freely and evacuate the heat.
This also destress's the fans or air handlers. They operate at a lower static pressure, drawing less amps and the fan motors and capacitors last longer.
psychadelibud
Well-Known Member
Bout got everything ready to flip... I think I might have one more issue though to be honest... Since I have two inlets, one being the passive inlet that brings fresh air into the room when the exhaust kicks on and blows scrubbed air out, the other is an intake for the air that runs through the air cool hoods... Located right above my room intake... FTW..
My point is... my air cooled hoods will be pulling smell from the bottom inlet during lights on, especially while the exhaust fan in the room is not running. I don't know what to do other than add another carbon filter for the air cool hoods... Or I could just say fuck it, and open up my hoods, hook up two filters and fans sucking air out of the room set on the thermo controlled outlet.
Only other choice I have other than that is to pull air through the hoods and have a filter on the beginning of the hoods instead of having an inlet in the lung room.
My point is... my air cooled hoods will be pulling smell from the bottom inlet during lights on, especially while the exhaust fan in the room is not running. I don't know what to do other than add another carbon filter for the air cool hoods... Or I could just say fuck it, and open up my hoods, hook up two filters and fans sucking air out of the room set on the thermo controlled outlet.
Only other choice I have other than that is to pull air through the hoods and have a filter on the beginning of the hoods instead of having an inlet in the lung room.
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psychadelibud
Well-Known Member
@HydroRed
@thumper60
@max420thc
What's up guy's? So I redid the duct setup and fans again.
The move I made can get the temps all the way down to 69.9 degrees if I want it to.
The only concern I have is this....
I opened up the hoods with this exact setup I am fixing to show you guys a sketch of that I made. Hell no, temps went crazy with open hoods.
So then I closed the hoods back up and temps dropped 15 degrees. My only concern is that there is nothing pulling air through the hoods, but the hoods are all ducted together and open on each end. The end of the duct is open between two fans sucking out which isn't connected just open next to them. The open duct in the front is hanging down beside the inlet bringing in pretty cold air. So do I need to worry about my hoods or lights getting too hot? The tops are hot to the touch but not the sides and bottoms. I believe the reason is that there is still air being sucked through them from the open duct hanging beside the inlet and the end of the duct open beside the fan and filters, which may be pulling air through the hoods, slowly but still pulling it out.. You all think this will work? Here is the sketch explaining the setup.
@thumper60
@max420thc
What's up guy's? So I redid the duct setup and fans again.
The move I made can get the temps all the way down to 69.9 degrees if I want it to.
The only concern I have is this....
I opened up the hoods with this exact setup I am fixing to show you guys a sketch of that I made. Hell no, temps went crazy with open hoods.
So then I closed the hoods back up and temps dropped 15 degrees. My only concern is that there is nothing pulling air through the hoods, but the hoods are all ducted together and open on each end. The end of the duct is open between two fans sucking out which isn't connected just open next to them. The open duct in the front is hanging down beside the inlet bringing in pretty cold air. So do I need to worry about my hoods or lights getting too hot? The tops are hot to the touch but not the sides and bottoms. I believe the reason is that there is still air being sucked through them from the open duct hanging beside the inlet and the end of the duct open beside the fan and filters, which may be pulling air through the hoods, slowly but still pulling it out.. You all think this will work? Here is the sketch explaining the setup.
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psychadelibud
Well-Known Member
After I sit and thought about this for a minute, I would believe the bulbs and fixtures would be able to handle the heat. I thought about street lights. A lot of street lights you see are enclosed basically and have no air flowing through themand they work just fine.. Yeah it may shorten the life of the bulbs, but I don't mind buying new bulbs every run.
I think next grow I am gonna do way with the HPS and invest in equivalent cmh bulbs. However many it takes to equal 4000 watts. I am gonna go back now and check the hoods just for safe measure and make sure they are not getting incredibly hot since they have had over an hour to warm up fully and heat up the hoods.
If all is good, I believe it will be time for the flip. I will have to clean up floor space and prep the room and all, but photos will be uploaded once the room is ready and plants are in place to flower.
I think next grow I am gonna do way with the HPS and invest in equivalent cmh bulbs. However many it takes to equal 4000 watts. I am gonna go back now and check the hoods just for safe measure and make sure they are not getting incredibly hot since they have had over an hour to warm up fully and heat up the hoods.
If all is good, I believe it will be time for the flip. I will have to clean up floor space and prep the room and all, but photos will be uploaded once the room is ready and plants are in place to flower.
psychadelibud
Well-Known Member
Finally getting around to the plants being in place, flower starts about 6 or 7am this morning. Thank God the first day of 12/12 has arrived.
Here is a photo of the girls as of now... There is 15 plants under the 2 lights in the back. In the front there is 5 plants and a bunch of seedlings and a few clones. Once I get the seedlings and clones put in the veg room ( in a couple of hours) I will have room to bring some of the plants in the back, up front to even them out and give them more space. If I see eventually that crowding becomes an issue, I can always pull 2 or 3 out to use as mother plants and throw in the veg room. I know I am gonna need a little extra space to tie and bend them down.
So currently there at 15 in back 15 in front. 20 plants flowering total under 4000 watts of light. I am going to split the number of plants up into each section. So when I am finished there will be 10 plants in back and 10 in the front. This will increase space tremendously from what you currently see in the photo. My goal for final yield is anywhere 4 to 6 ounces per plant. That will put me somewhere between 5 to 7.5 lbs. In expecting more like 5 to 5.5lb realistically, since this is my first time running these strains and I don't really have the plants dialed in as I would like. But really you never know.
I will have them semi-lollipopped by time they flip to 12/12. Gonna clone the hell out of the skva chem 91, since that is the only plant I have of her. The rest I already have a couple mothers a piece in progress. I plan on having at least 2 to 3 mothers of each strain as next round I am going to run a SOG... I believe that or scrog would be absolutely perfect for my setup. Other improvements I will make on my next rub is switching to coco, replacing lights with CMH bulbs and upgrading to 8 or maybe even 10 inch fans and duct.
Here they are... On a smoke and shitter break haha, then I'm getting busy again!
@HydroRed In your experience, how much does the Glue stretch one flipped to 12/12? At what week does she stop stretching?
Here is a photo of the girls as of now... There is 15 plants under the 2 lights in the back. In the front there is 5 plants and a bunch of seedlings and a few clones. Once I get the seedlings and clones put in the veg room ( in a couple of hours) I will have room to bring some of the plants in the back, up front to even them out and give them more space. If I see eventually that crowding becomes an issue, I can always pull 2 or 3 out to use as mother plants and throw in the veg room. I know I am gonna need a little extra space to tie and bend them down.
So currently there at 15 in back 15 in front. 20 plants flowering total under 4000 watts of light. I am going to split the number of plants up into each section. So when I am finished there will be 10 plants in back and 10 in the front. This will increase space tremendously from what you currently see in the photo. My goal for final yield is anywhere 4 to 6 ounces per plant. That will put me somewhere between 5 to 7.5 lbs. In expecting more like 5 to 5.5lb realistically, since this is my first time running these strains and I don't really have the plants dialed in as I would like. But really you never know.
I will have them semi-lollipopped by time they flip to 12/12. Gonna clone the hell out of the skva chem 91, since that is the only plant I have of her. The rest I already have a couple mothers a piece in progress. I plan on having at least 2 to 3 mothers of each strain as next round I am going to run a SOG... I believe that or scrog would be absolutely perfect for my setup. Other improvements I will make on my next rub is switching to coco, replacing lights with CMH bulbs and upgrading to 8 or maybe even 10 inch fans and duct.
Here they are... On a smoke and shitter break haha, then I'm getting busy again!
@HydroRed In your experience, how much does the Glue stretch one flipped to 12/12? At what week does she stop stretching?
psychadelibud
Well-Known Member
Damn, I will have my hands full with her then. I have 2 choices... I can either tie her down which I am going to do anyway, LST is a must. And I could top her back a few inches right before flower... What do you think about doing that? Yay or nay?
If you get the heat evacuated from the lamps almost all of your problems will go away spring winter and fall,
The Kentucky heat in the summer and humidity might be a issue.
I done basic and ait at Knox.
Cavalry scout. It's hot and humid as hell in Kentucky in the summer.
They make small mini split systems that are not horribly expensive.
Alot of the guys out west use a brand called dieken , if I spelled that correctly and I doubt I did.
They are easy to install and because of the DC inversion system in them draw very low amps. The efficiency is very good on then and they are cheap electricly to operate.
The downfall I do not like about them is the inability to direct airflow where you want it
I personally like to grow with exposed bulbs ,no glass or barrier in front of the bulb. The increased production to me is worth it. Ducted cooling system to direct the airflow, co2 injected 1300 ppm, 75 degrees lights on, 65 lights off.
When you duct your system you get better airflow and can shut almost all of your fans off.
The Kentucky heat in the summer and humidity might be a issue.
I done basic and ait at Knox.
Cavalry scout. It's hot and humid as hell in Kentucky in the summer.
They make small mini split systems that are not horribly expensive.
Alot of the guys out west use a brand called dieken , if I spelled that correctly and I doubt I did.
They are easy to install and because of the DC inversion system in them draw very low amps. The efficiency is very good on then and they are cheap electricly to operate.
The downfall I do not like about them is the inability to direct airflow where you want it
I personally like to grow with exposed bulbs ,no glass or barrier in front of the bulb. The increased production to me is worth it. Ducted cooling system to direct the airflow, co2 injected 1300 ppm, 75 degrees lights on, 65 lights off.
When you duct your system you get better airflow and can shut almost all of your fans off.
Duct work is actually pretty cheap , you can get rectangular even at Lowe's and such places, you can cave metal made for a few hundred bucks at a local sheet metal shop.
A fitting called a square to round can be easily made to adapt to a in line fan. .
Depending on the volume of air you need I can convert from round pipe to rectangular duct for you.
Rectangular duct does not need the space over head is more compact looks more professional. The duct needs sealed and insulated , I prefer bubble type insulation joined together with foil tape.
The fiberglass itchs and makes a mess.
Seal all the seams with the duct with either duct sealer or caulk before insulating , I like to seal the corners and seems with foil tape, it's a bit more expensive to do this but less messy.
A fitting called a square to round can be easily made to adapt to a in line fan. .
Depending on the volume of air you need I can convert from round pipe to rectangular duct for you.
Rectangular duct does not need the space over head is more compact looks more professional. The duct needs sealed and insulated , I prefer bubble type insulation joined together with foil tape.
The fiberglass itchs and makes a mess.
Seal all the seams with the duct with either duct sealer or caulk before insulating , I like to seal the corners and seems with foil tape, it's a bit more expensive to do this but less messy.
psychadelibud
Well-Known Member
Well, I was dabbling around on the wives old phone and just happened to find a few, fraction of tons I have lost in the past. Just figured I would throw these up... Nothing to spectacular, but hey...adds some porn to the thread!
psychadelibud
Well-Known Member
psychadelibud
Well-Known Member
