GimmieThe Loot
Well-Known Member
Last couple days some leaves have to started to yellow some and idk why. Happy frog at the top and ocean forest at the bottom with some perlite. Im using cali pro a&b plus additives in very small doses
Weird yellowing
- Thread starter GimmieThe Loot
- Start date
First pic seems something got spilled on the leaves and it burnt them, the plant seems fine otherwise. The second one seems it is not getting enough phosphorus for one reason or another. Starting to flower, she craves a bit more p. Depending on your growing medium, p can be locked out if the ph is too high, or if you don't have enough magnesium as it is a phosphorus carrier.
GimmieThe Loot
Well-Known Member
I was looking at the chart thinking along those lines.. Appreciate you bro. So how do i correct the bigger plant? And the smaller one i was thinking spill to but i wasnt sure... Do you suggest anthing for that one?
The one with the 'spill', if it is that, leave it be, you can't fix that and it wont cause any harm, just be careful when you water not to get fertilized water on the leaves. As for the other one, I'd say increase bloom b by a bit to get some more phosphorus in. All of this is assuming you have correct ph and no salt build up in your medium. If that's in check, then yes, just slightly increase phosphorus with magnesium, as they should be kept close to a 1:1 ratio for best absorption.
GimmieThe Loot
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the help family much appreciated.
i also didn't mention, but it appears the 2nd plant also has a touch too much nitrogen, again at this stage, with flowering starting, you may have to cut back a touch on the nitrogen as well as she seems to be showing some dark foliage and slight claws. Too much nitrogen can lock out potassium copper and boron. Not to mention slow down/inhibit the flowering process.
GimmieThe Loot
Well-Known Member
Aw shit man. Do you think i should give a flushing?
Honestly, i've only flushed once before. it looks like you're around week 2-3 since flip, approaching mid flower shortly, if you have no way to test your soil for what it contains or possibly even a ppm test of runoff (though that's usually not very reliable at all), it would give you a better idea of how severe the toxicity of N is and deficiency of P is. Your nutes seem to contain mostly only the nitrate form of nitrogen, which is the one that gets leached out quickly in waterings. You may not need to stress the plant by flushing it all out. Do you generally water to runoff? Maybe just a heavier watering with lower N and higher bloom b will help. I was in the same boat as you...i had a pineapple chunk that was incredibly sensitive to feedings and especially nitrogen! I was worried to cut the micro fert lower as it was the one that contained all the micros and calcium, but in the end i had no choice as even a 200 ppm (about 1ts/gallon) was affecting her with major clawing and dark thinning leaves. Try a slow adjusting for a while and see how she responds. She will be getting her hungriest shortly, so dont cut things back too much, just until she shows improvement and work from there. Some strains are very finicky! 
GimmieThe Loot
Well-Known Member
Ok ok ill jus take it day by day and correct a few things.. By the way these are fastbud autoflowers. Im seriously thinking about switching to photos from here on out. What do you grow?Honestly, i've only flushed once before. it looks like you're around week 2-3 since flip, approaching mid flower shortly, if you have no way to test your soil for what it contains or possibly even a ppm test of runoff (though that's usually not very reliable at all), it would give you a better idea of how severe the toxicity of N is and deficiency of P is. Your nutes seem to contain mostly only the nitrate form of nitrogen, which is the one that gets leached out quickly in waterings. You may not need to stress the plant by flushing it all out. Do you generally water to runoff? Maybe just a heavier watering with lower N and higher bloom b will help. I was in the same boat as you...i had a pineapple chunk that was incredibly sensitive to feedings and especially nitrogen! I was worried to cut the micro fert lower as it was the one that contained all the micros and calcium, but in the end i had no choice as even a 200 ppm (about 1ts/gallon) was affecting her with major clawing and dark thinning leaves. Try a slow adjusting for a while and see how she responds. She will be getting her hungriest shortly, so dont cut things back too much, just until she shows improvement and work from there. Some strains are very finicky!
Most always auto's as i dont have the plants concealed lol..so i can only give the 12 hours of darkness starting around mid october to early march. If i could, i would stick to photo's only. I've had some great auto's, but most often, the potency is weaker in the auto's i've run compared to photo's. Not to mention, the growing time isn't all that much faster..an auto still takes at least 8 weeks, but usually upwards of 10, i had a couple go 12 weeks, so it's not a big time saver for me, in the end the electricity costs more for an auto for me than a photo, yields of course are a bit less on average as well and again, so is potency.
GimmieThe Loot
Well-Known Member
All those points you just raised is the reason i going with photos from here on out. Is there any big difference in growing photos from autos? Is it harder?
GimmieThe Loot
Well-Known Member
And i feel the same way about the grow time my fastbuds green crack too over 105 days to finish and couldve went longer i think
This group of auto's im doing have just really started the flowering stage this week, and im starting week 7 tmr..so for sure 3-4 weeks left at best. As for harder or easier, if you get used to auto's, one difference will be feedings..photo's can take more food for sure, and when one gets used to feeding less, it takes a bit of an adjustment to feed photo's as they do get bigger and generally have larger appetites. That was my only issue at the start, was getting used to being able to, having to, give more, and also, in the event that you have a problem in veg, you have all the time to correct it as the plant's are not on a time limit yet. You can top them and then shape them as you wish for your setup, if you clone, obviously that's a huge benefit as well with photos. Auto's have come a long way in the last few years, and they are not nearly as 'useless' as 10 years ago, but my preference would be to run photo's for a few reasons. So to sum it up, yes, the difference with photo's that i saw, was getting used to growing larger, hungrier plants, that's the main adjustment.
GimmieThe Loot
Well-Known Member
Yea man autos can only take very small doses. But im def growing photos from here on out.. There are some photo strains im excited about running. Autoflowers are ok but id like see the full potiental of these plants
Ya, i started with auto's, and i think on my 3rd run i did one photo and that's when i got really excited about the growing process! Seeing that one 'real' plant gave me the will to continue as i finally saw the potential
With that being said, these 3 auto's are my biggest to date and are taking up more room than my 2 6 week veg photo's did last grow lol.