Can you give me a feeding schedule using dyna gro nutrients in coco fox farm coco loco please?I don't use NPK additives with DynaGro* so to make it fair, I wont be using them here. I do use and could use magpro as it has sulfur and magnesium as well as a booster-like NPK ratio, though fat mike doesn't agree with the higher phosphorus content of that product. So to stay true to AN's philosophy of higher potassium and not so high phosphorus, I'll probably add nothing at all as sulfates are not going to make the difference either way in this grow. As you said, AN claims that Connoisseur is the top-of-the-line nutrient on the market which was supposedly put together by a team of 12 PhD's. We shall see if the performance matches the hype.
In regards to any 3 part, DG proved itself vastly superior during the time period where I ran them side-by-side. So much so that I've got about 5 gallons of 3-part that will never be used indoors again.
*full disclosure, I am using ProTekt (0-0-3) in this grow.
Dyna-Gro vs Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur (AK47 Grow)
- Thread starter homebrewer
- Start date
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
Any of their veg formulas will work great start to finish.
Thank you i enjoyed this study you have convinced me
mmsmms123
Member
so this forum way back in the day in 2012 tought me how to grow so homebrewer thank you i have been following from the beggining anyway i did the grandmaster package vs dyna bloom calmag protect dynaenzyme and protekt with liquid karma and the results are that an made some great smoke. the difference between the two to make it short and sweet is that an made some great smoke. the resin holds the bud in place. now when lit it stayed lit it has a great smell to it and it was fun to mix with my ml dropper. other than that dynagro with all of their supplememts makes more compact, stickier and sweeter smelling bud. the smoke is much better and it costs are 10x less and i swear swear swear do not waste the money if you want to have fun being a scientist than by all means take the 250ml package for like 300 bucks. it was fun honestly but i am smoking my dynagro right now and i gave a lot of my an to friends and family.just please remember if you like tight sweet sticky buds than listen to homebrewer! i had to sign up just to finally say thanks
I was going to run foliage pro for first two weeks of veg at half strength then add dynabloom at half strength after that so both foliage and dynabloom at half strength until 1 week after lights got to 12hrs then run just bloom also the cal mag half strength all the way through since im using coco coir also should i use any enzymes?
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
If you're in coco then I'd skip the bloom altogether. If it makes you feel good you could run 75% FP and 25% bloom in flower. Calmag is not needed, it is really never needed if your base already contains calcium and magnesium.
Growgerth24
Member
My 2 cents on dynagro
A few years ago I was running advanced nuts and getting great results, but hated the price and their marketing. Stumbled across HB on these forums and started using dynagro. Starting 12/12 gro bloom with a little more bloom at the end. After the first couple weeks in bloom holy crap! Big beautiful lush plants awesome. As the crop went on super green and lush beautiul growth; however at the end the bud was not of the same quality. That round was not of the best environent so I chalked it up to that. Ended up moving and took a couple months off.
Next grow-
Tried canna. Which had a 2-2-4 ratio- opposite of dynagro at the beginning. Was really mad right off the bat. Yellowing after week 3. Purple stems. Urghhhh so ugly. Decided to stick with it. Actually turned out to be really good bud despite all this. Even better than the beautiful lush green dynagro round.-which is why I didnt go back to straight dyna Next gro and decided to do soemthing different-
Used dynagro for first 10 days only. Then switched to canna 2-2-4 After that. Can I tell you holy shit. Best round ever. Followed this regimen for about a year being my best year ever. Moved again. Decided to try another new nute regimine -
Now dynagro for first 3 to 5 weeks depending on strain- followed by Lucas formula for the finish( a tweak up of P for longer into flower and also a tweak up of p over canna and a lot less K comparitavitely) results were not nearly on the same level.
So then I decided to run a side by side. Straight dyna//Dyna for first 10 days then a high k fert// dyna for first 10 days and even p to k ratio(lucas).
The results- straight dyna was the least quality and product weight was the least-Actually had to sell it at a lower price point(darkest green by the way). Canna mix was the best followed by the dyna/ Lucas mix
My take away-
Phophorsus is needed in copious amounts for the first week or so followed by potassium.
Dynagro is simply too high in phosphorus and anatomical nitrogen to be used as a useful cheap alternative in my opinion.
Things I agree with homebrewer on-
nutrient salts are nutrient salts as long as they are chelated correctly and in balance.
Things I disagree with homebrewer on "-Just keep the leaves green and your plants will be happy- "completely false and the two are not necessarily correlated. A symptom of k deficiency is super lush green growth. Or too much N for that matter.
Another thing- "plants respond to a multitude of n-p-k ratios". That is BS. Just like humans have an ideal proper fat carb protein ratio for muscle synthesis - plants do have an ideal ratio. Depending on environent and strain. Will they grow with many different ratios? Yea. but to think it' not necessary to optimize that is foolish thinking. If I have two hydro setups and one is going through more nutrients according to ppm measurments, u can safely assume the other one is getting a better ratio assuming same clone.
Now please dont point me to your AN vs dynagro comparison. Your experiment actually validates my hypotheses (ok my not validates, but doesn' invalidate) it makes sense your plants responded well to the dyna in comparison to the AN at the beginning)
I know what' coming next- "journal your shit"
Why I havnt- I live in the unfriendliest of states, this is has changed. And you will see a ton of me on here in the coming months.
Do I work for any company?
Nope any 1-2-1 ratio in the beginning followed by any 1-1-2 ratio Will work. Varying slitghly with strain and environment.
But dyna ratio the entire way through leads to less than ideal product.
A few years ago I was running advanced nuts and getting great results, but hated the price and their marketing. Stumbled across HB on these forums and started using dynagro. Starting 12/12 gro bloom with a little more bloom at the end. After the first couple weeks in bloom holy crap! Big beautiful lush plants awesome. As the crop went on super green and lush beautiul growth; however at the end the bud was not of the same quality. That round was not of the best environent so I chalked it up to that. Ended up moving and took a couple months off.
Next grow-
Tried canna. Which had a 2-2-4 ratio- opposite of dynagro at the beginning. Was really mad right off the bat. Yellowing after week 3. Purple stems. Urghhhh so ugly. Decided to stick with it. Actually turned out to be really good bud despite all this. Even better than the beautiful lush green dynagro round.-which is why I didnt go back to straight dyna Next gro and decided to do soemthing different-
Used dynagro for first 10 days only. Then switched to canna 2-2-4 After that. Can I tell you holy shit. Best round ever. Followed this regimen for about a year being my best year ever. Moved again. Decided to try another new nute regimine -
Now dynagro for first 3 to 5 weeks depending on strain- followed by Lucas formula for the finish( a tweak up of P for longer into flower and also a tweak up of p over canna and a lot less K comparitavitely) results were not nearly on the same level.
So then I decided to run a side by side. Straight dyna//Dyna for first 10 days then a high k fert// dyna for first 10 days and even p to k ratio(lucas).
The results- straight dyna was the least quality and product weight was the least-Actually had to sell it at a lower price point(darkest green by the way). Canna mix was the best followed by the dyna/ Lucas mix
My take away-
Phophorsus is needed in copious amounts for the first week or so followed by potassium.
Dynagro is simply too high in phosphorus and anatomical nitrogen to be used as a useful cheap alternative in my opinion.
Things I agree with homebrewer on-
nutrient salts are nutrient salts as long as they are chelated correctly and in balance.
Things I disagree with homebrewer on "-Just keep the leaves green and your plants will be happy- "completely false and the two are not necessarily correlated. A symptom of k deficiency is super lush green growth. Or too much N for that matter.
Another thing- "plants respond to a multitude of n-p-k ratios". That is BS. Just like humans have an ideal proper fat carb protein ratio for muscle synthesis - plants do have an ideal ratio. Depending on environent and strain. Will they grow with many different ratios? Yea. but to think it' not necessary to optimize that is foolish thinking. If I have two hydro setups and one is going through more nutrients according to ppm measurments, u can safely assume the other one is getting a better ratio assuming same clone.
Now please dont point me to your AN vs dynagro comparison. Your experiment actually validates my hypotheses (ok my not validates, but doesn' invalidate) it makes sense your plants responded well to the dyna in comparison to the AN at the beginning)
I know what' coming next- "journal your shit"
Why I havnt- I live in the unfriendliest of states, this is has changed. And you will see a ton of me on here in the coming months.
Do I work for any company?
Nope any 1-2-1 ratio in the beginning followed by any 1-1-2 ratio Will work. Varying slitghly with strain and environment.
But dyna ratio the entire way through leads to less than ideal product.
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Northernmich
Active Member
But dyna ratio the entire way through leads to less than ideal product I beg to differ. Did Lucas for 8 years I am all the way on Dyna from here on out,. All my soil test came back perfect ... I do use the 1/4 tsp pro tek 1/4 fp all thew the grow,.. then in flower. I use the bloom once a week and mag plus once or twice the fp on the other days drop the pro tek 4th week in flower I like to keep them green close to the end MMM sweet stuff.. I used Dyna grow back in the late 80s Glad I went back. oh and some recharge... GH flavorlishish last 3 weeks of bloom maybe that gives it the flavor I dont know.,
Growgerth24
Member
Foilage pro is quite high in ammonical nitrogen for bloom isn't it?
I guess if I was going to mix products of theirs it would make sense to us FP to keep the k up, and hope that the N wouldn't be too high because its so low in the bloom formula.
Another thing I don' like however is the chunks that accumulate in the bottom of the bottle. Im not a chemist, but it doesn't seem like all parts would necessarily fall out of a solution in uniform. How do I know those chunks are not of a certain nutrient (lets say calcium) that precipitate easier.
Not to mention its not even that much cheaper than higher k formulas that you can only seem to find in cannabis specific basis. The scams are in the additives like amino acids and enzymes. Dyna still costs me 20 a bottle, and I don't like to buy it in larger amounts because of those darn rocks that fall out of the solution.
Yea I cant stand the dyna gro products outside the first ten days of bloom. And even so, there are higher p formulas on the market for those first 10 days that you can use as an alternative.
I guess if I was going to mix products of theirs it would make sense to us FP to keep the k up, and hope that the N wouldn't be too high because its so low in the bloom formula.
Another thing I don' like however is the chunks that accumulate in the bottom of the bottle. Im not a chemist, but it doesn't seem like all parts would necessarily fall out of a solution in uniform. How do I know those chunks are not of a certain nutrient (lets say calcium) that precipitate easier.
Not to mention its not even that much cheaper than higher k formulas that you can only seem to find in cannabis specific basis. The scams are in the additives like amino acids and enzymes. Dyna still costs me 20 a bottle, and I don't like to buy it in larger amounts because of those darn rocks that fall out of the solution.
Yea I cant stand the dyna gro products outside the first ten days of bloom. And even so, there are higher p formulas on the market for those first 10 days that you can use as an alternative.
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homebrewer
Well-Known Member
I'll engage in a discussion here but first you need to let us know what you're growing in. Hydro? Soil? Coco? Peat? What EC were you feeding at and what products were you using and how?
Growgerth24
Member
Promix hp peat. Sometimes il throw a a few bags of soil into a bale if I dont feel like fertilizing in veg.
My e.c usually runs around 1 to 1.3 highest. I have never needed more. I am 99.9% sure my conversion is correct, I never go over 900 ppm on the 700 scale. I would do hydro but I am not in love with the plant count.
Run 2 1000's with a 330 LEC in the middle
Co2 to 900 ppm.
Temps never above 90 and never below 75. Humidity is rather low, roughly 35 to 40. But I like to be on the safe side with that.
Used foilage pro if I was in straight promix for veg. 2 or 3 days into flower I would use half gro half bloom depending on look. Like I said they always looked beautiful foilage wise, reaching and everything. The other ones fed a higher k regimine after day 10 always were just as green at the end, but the product was leaps and bounds better. Sometimes I added protekt, sometimes I wouldn't bother because you need to mix it first else it gets clumpy, and I would sometimes forget to start with it(prob not good to give it every time anyways? Just a guess, I always like to be more conservative)
I wish I had more experience with hydro, but are the nutrient needs that much different than promix?
And I'm not in love with foilage pro for bloom because you essentially are using a nutrient that has more N than anything else in bloom just to get k into the medium or res or whatever you might have.
And again, its really not cheaper than the one part I use now. Especially because if I get that many chunks from a quart, I Can't imagine was precipitates from a gallon, so I never wanted to do it.
I remember I even put that stuff in a protein shaker and a wisk with a cup of boiling water and shook my brains out, nope, still didnt do the trick. Just to save what amounts to be about 10 dollars a cycle. No thanks. Again outside a couple companies the scams and big price tags are in the additives(except for AN and maybe one or two others-everything of theirs is expensive)
My e.c usually runs around 1 to 1.3 highest. I have never needed more. I am 99.9% sure my conversion is correct, I never go over 900 ppm on the 700 scale. I would do hydro but I am not in love with the plant count.
Run 2 1000's with a 330 LEC in the middle
Co2 to 900 ppm.
Temps never above 90 and never below 75. Humidity is rather low, roughly 35 to 40. But I like to be on the safe side with that.
Used foilage pro if I was in straight promix for veg. 2 or 3 days into flower I would use half gro half bloom depending on look. Like I said they always looked beautiful foilage wise, reaching and everything. The other ones fed a higher k regimine after day 10 always were just as green at the end, but the product was leaps and bounds better. Sometimes I added protekt, sometimes I wouldn't bother because you need to mix it first else it gets clumpy, and I would sometimes forget to start with it(prob not good to give it every time anyways? Just a guess, I always like to be more conservative)
I wish I had more experience with hydro, but are the nutrient needs that much different than promix?
And I'm not in love with foilage pro for bloom because you essentially are using a nutrient that has more N than anything else in bloom just to get k into the medium or res or whatever you might have.
And again, its really not cheaper than the one part I use now. Especially because if I get that many chunks from a quart, I Can't imagine was precipitates from a gallon, so I never wanted to do it.
I remember I even put that stuff in a protein shaker and a wisk with a cup of boiling water and shook my brains out, nope, still didnt do the trick. Just to save what amounts to be about 10 dollars a cycle. No thanks. Again outside a couple companies the scams and big price tags are in the additives(except for AN and maybe one or two others-everything of theirs is expensive)
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
I think your EC is high and your room is a little arid. In promix I would not be running combos of foliage pro and bloom. High P formulas in promix are garbage. High K formulas are OK as long as it's in balance with everything else. So essentially I think you have some grower errors and are choosing to blame the food.
Yes, nutrient uptake is different in hydro.
Foliage pro from start to finish in promix below. It's not about the brand though, it's about the minerals and any brand or bottle that is supplying the elements in the ratios that plants like will do fantastic. But nutrients are only like the 3rd most importing thing in cultivation. If your herb sucks then you cannot blame the food. You can blame environmental stresses, that'll kill quality right quick. AN sucks but if you read this thread you'd see that my testers could not tell the difference between the AN and DG grown flowers. AN just happened to yield poorly and was costly to run.
Yes, nutrient uptake is different in hydro.
Foliage pro from start to finish in promix below. It's not about the brand though, it's about the minerals and any brand or bottle that is supplying the elements in the ratios that plants like will do fantastic. But nutrients are only like the 3rd most importing thing in cultivation. If your herb sucks then you cannot blame the food. You can blame environmental stresses, that'll kill quality right quick. AN sucks but if you read this thread you'd see that my testers could not tell the difference between the AN and DG grown flowers. AN just happened to yield poorly and was costly to run.
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Growgerth24
Member
Again don't want to dump that much nitrogen . That ratio Is like 9-3-6 Right? I know people love to dump boosters in their mix and dilute the ratio of nitrogen down to stupid levels, but adding that much seems counter productive. Suppose you could flush constantly to prevent the buildup.
As far high ec I never have bad salt buildup if I measure , even at the end. I do water more frequently than nute however.
As far as being arid it really shoudnt make too much of a difference. I know more arid environments supposedly requires you to feed a little more k so I do acknowledge that. And as long as you are watering more frequently because of increased evaporation in the medium you should be good yes?. Could turn down dehumidifier, think that would create better results?
Regardless my dyna plants were in the same environent as the others. So I don' think 10 points in humidity would make them better over the others.
I want to emphasize I had fine results with it, just not as good as canna or gh.
And it's really not much cheaper than canna, I get 5 liters of my one part for 80 dollars. And liter of Dg is 22, a little more concentrated I will give you that. We are talking suchhh a small difference in price.
As far high ec I never have bad salt buildup if I measure , even at the end. I do water more frequently than nute however.
As far as being arid it really shoudnt make too much of a difference. I know more arid environments supposedly requires you to feed a little more k so I do acknowledge that. And as long as you are watering more frequently because of increased evaporation in the medium you should be good yes?. Could turn down dehumidifier, think that would create better results?
Regardless my dyna plants were in the same environent as the others. So I don' think 10 points in humidity would make them better over the others.
I want to emphasize I had fine results with it, just not as good as canna or gh.
And it's really not much cheaper than canna, I get 5 liters of my one part for 80 dollars. And liter of Dg is 22, a little more concentrated I will give you that. We are talking suchhh a small difference in price.
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homebrewer
Well-Known Member
I would definitely turn down your dehumidifier. Shoot for 45-50%.
In regards to a 3-1-2 NPK ratio being too much nitrogen, that's nonsense. Nitrogen is the most important element to these plants. Again, hydro and promix are different, but you need to feed enough to support healthy foliage. If all your leaves aren't soft, green, and intact until harvest then you could be doing better. It's OK to have some color change at harvest as you taper down he EC a little but that NPK balance is damn near ideal. Just don't overfeed.
Northernmich
Active Member
I did a soil test for lucas and N was low in flower p and k were fine Plants must use that stuff in flower more than people think. Just my opinion. it was a bit low in FP also
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Northernmich
Active Member
why would this be? also I do get the clumping of the dyna products.. I put them in 1 oz containers to limit this.
blowincherrypie
Well-Known Member
nice buds bruhI think your EC is high and your room is a little arid. In promix I would not be running combos of foliage pro and bloom. High P formulas in promix are garbage. High K formulas are OK as long as it's in balance with everything else. So essentially I think you have some grower errors and are choosing to blame the food.
Yes, nutrient uptake is different in hydro.
Foliage pro from start to finish in promix below. It's not about the brand though, it's about the minerals and any brand or bottle that is supplying the elements in the ratios that plants like will do fantastic. But nutrients are only like the 3rd most importing thing in cultivation. If your herb sucks then you cannot blame the food. You can blame environmental stresses, that'll kill quality right quick. AN sucks but if you read this thread you'd see that my testers could not tell the difference between the AN and DG grown flowers. AN just happened to yield poorly and was costly to run.
Growgerth24
Member
HB I am going to Do a side by side of FP/ and my current regimine in the coming weeks, and I will trust you on this one. I am curious about running it through. Il try to keep all variables consistent. My biggest concern is not just the nitrogen levels ,but the fact it is ammonical nitrogen. Is my concern unfounded?
Northnermich thx for the info on Lucas. There is a formula with GH called " the useless formula" that uses some grow, I only know a friend that has tried it and he loved his results. I wonder if that would be any better.
Never realized a little less humidity could be detrimental, it never seemed to mattered, just always assumed be proactive about things like mold. I will tick it up a little bit though.
Northnermich thx for the info on Lucas. There is a formula with GH called " the useless formula" that uses some grow, I only know a friend that has tried it and he loved his results. I wonder if that would be any better.
Never realized a little less humidity could be detrimental, it never seemed to mattered, just always assumed be proactive about things like mold. I will tick it up a little bit though.
DXking
Well-Known Member
Hey Homebrewer
Can't tell you how much you have helped me with the DG and Promix advice and overall grow tips. Believe I've read about everything you've posted, some post many times.
One thing I'm still unclear on - ppm vs. frequency of watering. Using Promix BX in a 4 GL container and well water at 5-10 ppm. If I water once every 5 days (using the "light container" method) at say 5 ml/GL of FP, 1.5 ml of Protek (total 275-300 ppm) is that the equivalent of 1 ml and .3 ml every day ?
I use LEDs with plenty of PPFD, but they don't have the radiant heat that HIDs have, contributes to slow drying. Temps run 78 down to 70, humidity 45-55%
BTW - Girls look great, never better, simpler or cheaper.