Cold$moke's Frost heave

Cannadab1s

Cannadab1s

Well-Known Member
Cold$moke said:
Im loving these new nutes im using so far
They are almost crystal clear with almost 0 color
Just barely tints the water like adding a drop or 2 of yellowish green food dye

My roots are finally after YEARS of using advanced nutes and having brown roots.

My roots are finally BLINGIN white again !
Click to expand...
What kinda nutes?
 
Cold$moke

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Thats the best part its high quality and FUCKIN CHEAP

since im doing rdwc i dump nutes like no tomorrow and advanced nutes going down the drain so fast seemed like a waste they are way over priced anyways.


5 pounds for 25 bucks or so plus shipping .

Which right now im using 2 grams a gal and i dont think it will go much over that

Mega crop was on my list but its basically a dry version of advanced nutes if im correct

And i didnt want brown nutes this time .
As i wanted white white roots :)
 
M

max420thc

Well-Known Member
Cold$moke said:
Hydro gardens chem gro 4-20-39
Plus cal nitrate and mag sulphate.

I might give them a pinch of mpk at week 4and 5 then cut it but it shouldnt really need it but i have it incase
Click to expand...
This would be ok for a outdoor formula,
Because of the sun outdoor plants up take nutes more efficiently.
Indoor is around 2.5-5-5 being about ideal
I never bump them with PK boosters, some guys do around week 4to 5
 
M

max420thc

Well-Known Member
Production - strain selection- light and air penatration - depth of canopy- ( not width) destress the plant --energy direction of the plant (trimming)
These are the things that make production.
Feeding the plant is perhaps the least critical thing to do and so much effort and time is spent researching it and discussing it.
N is toxic to marijuana. It will poison your plant in the wrong strength and will do it quick, Everytime you poison your plant with nutrients it shocks the plant then it has to recover. Everytime you do this the plant loses production.
The plant uptakes nutrients and stores them within it's cells structure.
Then it must use them at a latter time or if it doesn't the nutrients end up in the final taste, burn and smell of the product.
If you want a outstanding product at Finnish just use Lucas formula , it's easy and cheap,
Use it as your base and 1 ml a gallon of Cal mag in veg and first two weeks of bloom, if they look like they want a little more N or cal bump them with a little more Cal mag .
 
M

max420thc

Well-Known Member
You can easily use dry powder based nutes, it's the same thing all of them are,
But the NPK ratios have to be correct,
Let's say you purchased 5 -10-10.
You know you want your NPK around 2.5-5-5 , you would just use it at half strength.
 
Cold$moke

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Lets say i purchased 4-20-39 lol
Which if i add the cal nit and mag sul right i belevive the ratios are close to what your talkin about .

But its a brand new nute for me still getting them dialed but i like them so far
Pearl white roots with them
 
Cold$moke

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
max420thc said:
Production - strain selection- light and air penatration - depth of canopy- ( not width) destress the plant --energy direction of the plant (trimming)
These are the things that make production.
Feeding the plant is perhaps the least critical thing to do and so much effort and time is spent researching it and discussing it.
N is toxic to marijuana. It will poison your plant in the wrong strength and will do it quick, Everytime you poison your plant with nutrients it shocks the plant then it has to recover. Everytime you do this the plant loses production.
The plant uptakes nutrients and stores them within it's cells structure.
Then it must use them at a latter time or if it doesn't the nutrients end up in the final taste, burn and smell of the product.
If you want a outstanding product at Finnish just use Lucas formula , it's easy and cheap,
Use it as your base and 1 ml a gallon of Cal mag in veg and first two weeks of bloom, if they look like they want a little more N or cal bump them with a little more Cal mag .
Click to expand...
Can you expand on the depth not width of canopy?
 
M

max420thc

Well-Known Member
There is intensity of light, focus of light and containment of light you need to think about,
The light spread and depth.
Light is not one dimensional.
Light as it travels from the arc of the bulb gets weaker as it leaves the bulb, the manufactures of HPS and MH test the bulbs intensity when it is new one foot from the center of the tube,
The hoods immediately turn the light then aim it from the back side of the lamp down into the plants,
We all know light hits the plant concentrating it into energy through the FAN leaves.
The light leaves the hook in a arc or angle steadily decreasing in intensity until there is nothing left, if you take the light and turn it into the plant to before it loses intensity it becomes usable light that makes bud, the more you can contain light to the growing area the more bud you will produce.
The light before it's effective intensity falls off on a 1000 watt bulb is about three ft.
Because many growers are putting their plants up against a trellis and letting side Branch's grow up on the terminal stem are screwing up, if they are growing for production in a couple of ways, one they are putting the plant into stress causing the plant to use energy taking away from that energy to go to bud development.
Then they are blocking the use of the effective depth of the canopy by using the length and width of the production , completely ignoring the depth.
The side Branch's you are growing for example normally only form a small bud at the end of it, if there are buds further back on the branch they are normally garbage,
If that whole branch is removed and top pinched once a week for the first five weeks of bloom on most strains ,it will form long deep colas into the canopy, and because as the plant is developing you can contain the plants energy to the terminal colas, you do not want anymore colas then the light can penetrate effectively , but you want the maximum amount it can, .
A 1000 watt HPS will provide almost 10k lumens per sq ft, when NEW in a 4x4 area, you want to keep the light and plants within that area, contain the light to that area and intensify the light in the area,
It is very important your hood focus the light to that area,
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top