LED light burn?

[growin-Jables]

For future grows dude fox farms makes fantastic all in one soil. But happy frog just won't give you the nutrition that ocean forest can provide. I always have a bag of each on hand. I use happy frog for sprouting seeds and when I first transplant my rooted clones into soil for first time. Then on the 2nd transplant I do a 50/50 , with light amount of worm castings. Then on yhe final transplant about 2 -3 weeks before i plan on flipping to 1212. I do straight ocean forest with a hearty amount of worm castings. Always add perlite when using either soil. The ocean forest is strong soil. Lasts about 3 -4 weeks before you need to start supplementing bottles nutes

 

[Azubaz]

Sweet.
You can get ph ones too.
Make sure wth your soil test kit, in your pic, to dig deep. Thats why i like the stakes instead.
Bless you too!!!

Are these not PH testers?
I've never used the soil test kit and doesn't have instructions. The digital one just says to jam it in there and test it. Does the soil have to be wet?

 

[Azubaz]

For future grows dude fox farms makes fantastic all in one soil. But happy frog just won't give you the nutrition that ocean forest can provide. I always have a bag of each on hand. I use happy frog for sprouting seeds and when I first transplant my rooted clones into soil for first time. Then on the 2nd transplant I do a 50/50 , with light amount of worm castings. Then on yhe final transplant about 2 -3 weeks before i plan on flipping to 1212. I do straight ocean forest with a hearty amount of worm castings. Always add perlite when using either soil. The ocean forest is strong soil. Lasts about 3 -4 weeks before you need to start supplementing bottles nutes

Bless for the tip i gotta nother run coming up and perhaps ill try the fox farms. Happy frog was what i was recommended from the dudes at the hydro store.

 

[growin-Jables]

Happy frog is fox farms. Fox Farms is the company that makes the soil. The make both " Fox Farms happy frog" and " Fox Farms ocean forest " sorry if I didn't specify that previously lol

 

[Tim1987]

Are these not PH testers?
I've never used the soil test kit and doesn't have instructions. The digital one just says to jam it in there and test it. Does the soil have to be wet?

Yes they are.
But if your ph test is a strip or powder. Dig down for your soil sample. It can be inconsistent, checking runoff for the same reason.
There may be a hot spot in your soil. A 12inch or so ph stake is grreat. Because you can spot check your soil. Runoff cant tell you, and its hard to pin point its location, with a slurry test.
It doesnt matter if your soil is wet or dry. Just bare in mind salt concentration rises, as water levels decrease. But you cant over water it either.
Its good to water/feed not very often. But give it a big drink or feed, when you do, and water it in/through.
Best of luck mate

 

[Azubaz]

Yes they are.
But if your ph test is a strip or powder. Dig down for your soil sample. It can be inconsistent, checking runoff for the same reason.
There may be a hot spot in your soil. A 12inch or so ph stake is grreat. Because you can spot check your soil. Runoff cant tell you, and its hard to pin point its location, with a slurry test.
It doesnt matter if your soil is wet or dry. Just bare in mind salt concentration rises, as water levels decrease. But you cant over water it either.
Its good to water/feed not very often. But give it a big drink or feed, when you do, and water it in/through.
Best of luck mate

So i checked with both tests, and the digital is giving me a reading at 7.8 and i probed a couple different spots. The other test is about the same range 7.0 to 8.0

 

[Azubaz]

You HAVE to get a pen to check PH and ppm of both your water source and feed mixes.
You can't guess and expect nothing will happen. Purple stem is creeping interveinal in leaf .
There is a lock out somewhere , looks like P . But no way to tell if you don't know what is going in much less what's coming out. LED will bleach more often than burn.

Led height is a bit close , as most led manufactures say 18-24" depending on stage.

The Dark Brown splotched are what bad PH symptoms look like.
Most PH pens can be had in Amazon for like $11-15 bucks .

The digital test gave me a reading of 7.8

 

[Budzbuddha]

7.8 is high BUT not sure what kind of pen you are using. Are you collecting runoff in a cup or container then checking there ?

7.8 is what will lock out a number of essential elements the plant needs.
At that level it is too alkaline.

Concentrate on your water ph BEFORE you add anything. You need to know what your baseline PH is. THEN YOU CAN adjust from there.

Do you gave Ph UP and PH Down to mix feeds or correct water ?

 

[Budzbuddha]

Hopefully something like this

 

[Tim1987]

Just work on getting the ph of your medium down.
Little by little.

 

[Azubaz]

After a couple days, the affected leaves leaves aren't getting any better but i feel like it's slowed down. Haven't hit any other leaves i can see. All i did was add more nutes last feed and put my light farther away.

 

[Nugachino]

I'd like to point out. If in case op doesn't know. And it's not been mentioned beforehand. Plants yellow up near the end of flower.

The other thing I've found. Some plants aren't as dark a green/(insert relevant colors here) as others. Even those from the same genetics can express differences in colour.

It's also a good idea to give your canopy at least a foot of space from things like HID or COB/LED lights. Otherwise you're going to stress your plants either with heat and or over saturation of photons. Usually presenting as bleached or crispy foliage &/or buds. Or wilting.

*correct me if I'm wrong- or presenting irrelevant information*

 

[growin-Jables]

I'd like to point out. If in case op doesn't know. And it's not been mentioned beforehand. Plants yellow up near the end of flower.

The other thing I've found. Some plants aren't as dark a green/(insert relevant colors here) as others. Even those from the same genetics can express differences in colour.

It's also a good idea to give your canopy at least a foot of space from things like HID or COB/LED lights. Otherwise you're going to stress your plants either with heat and or over saturation of photons. Usually presenting as bleached or crispy foliage &/or buds. Or wilting.

*correct me if I'm wrong- or presenting irrelevant information*

I usually see yellowing starting from the bottom around week 5 of flower. Than ad I hit 6 and 7 some leaves from the middle and random spots will start yo lose color. But his leaves dont look like normal late in flower yellowing.

 

[growin-Jables]

After a couple days, the affected leaves leaves aren't getting any better but i feel like it's slowed down. Haven't hit any other leaves i can see. All i did was add more nutes last feed and put my light farther away.

I would not expect to see the effected leaves recover. Focus on the new growth. Any leaves that get curled or brown spots generally stay yhat way. Just don't make any drastic moves. She still looks like she packing on some nice trichromes

 

[Azubaz]

I would not expect to see the effected leaves recover. Focus on the new growth. Any leaves that get curled or brown spots generally stay yhat way. Just don't make any drastic moves. She still looks like she packing on some nice trichromes

I have thought about cutting off the affected leaved but they are still alive. I'm gonna let her take them in until they fall off. I did notice the growth slow down initially when it first started happening, but since the problem has slowed, i can see the buds starting to swell little by little. I'm not gonna do anyrhing crazy besides maybe add some cal mag and some kinda kelp food a guy at the store suggested using. Yeah she packed those on early and they look nice

 

[Azubaz]

I'd like to point out. If in case op doesn't know. And it's not been mentioned beforehand. Plants yellow up near the end of flower.

The other thing I've found. Some plants aren't as dark a green/(insert relevant colors here) as others. Even those from the same genetics can express differences in colour.

It's also a good idea to give your canopy at least a foot of space from things like HID or COB/LED lights. Otherwise you're going to stress your plants either with heat and or over saturation of photons. Usually presenting as bleached or crispy foliage &/or buds. Or wilting.

*correct me if I'm wrong- or presenting irrelevant information*

I realize that thanks. But it's not normal yellowing to the novice eye. Sorry but it's irrelevant i already mentioned how i moved my lights further from the canopy. But thanks for the input

 

[Nugachino]

I usually see yellowing starting from the bottom around week 5 of flower. Than ad I hit 6 and 7 some leaves from the middle and random spots will start yo lose color. But his leaves dont look like normal late in flower yellowing.

Then. Put my advice down to a learner trying to distill what he's noticed. Relevant or not.

I can't comment on ph's as I don't bother with such things.

 

[Azubaz]

Then. Put my advice down to a learner trying to distill what he's noticed. Relevant or not.

I can't comment on ph's as I don't bother with such things.

Good eye we are both learners. But day 44 of flower and she has a ways so it's a little early for normal yellowing.
I don't really bother with ph either but just picked up a couple things to test ph with and have been doing my homework. They tell me it's to high.

 

[Ghost of Davy Jones]

Good eye we are both learners. But day 44 of flower and she has a ways so it's a little early for normal yellowing.
I don't really bother with ph either but just picked up a couple things to test ph with and have been doing my homework. They tell me it's to high.

I Had a thread the other day about checking the ph levels. The majority of people who chimed in said if a person is growing in soil then they don't need to worry about the ph because soil is alive and it neutralizes itself out. Maybe you can read up on that and see what you think.

 

[Ghost of Davy Jones]

It does look like Phosphorus deficiency to me...