Bridgelux EB Strips GEN 2

[Randomblame]

Yeah, everything is pretty tight on my build, but it will later be adjusted to a 4x4' area and gets bigger drivers. But basically, such a distribution avoids center hotspots.

This guy had a problem with too high intensity in the center and has made a test. The logarithmic distribution has helped a lot!
https://www.rollitup.org/t/bridgelux-eb-series-on-a-2-x-4-scrog.943414/

 

[T-Time]

Yeah, everything is pretty tight on my build, but it will later be adjusted to a 4x4' area and gets bigger drivers. But basically, such a distribution avoids center hotspots.

This guy had a problem with too high intensity in the center and has made a test. The logarithmic distribution has helped a lot!
https://www.rollitup.org/t/bridgelux-eb-series-on-a-2-x-4-scrog.943414/

I'll defo look into that.
Thanks for the help!

 

[Randomblame]

I'll defo look into that.
Thanks for the help!

Intersting stuff starts on page 4..

https://www.rollitup.org/t/bridgelux-eb-series-on-a-2-x-4-scrog.943414/page-4

 

[Nutria]

Any data on gen2 ppfd, ler, qer ?

 

[Randomblame]

Any data on gen2 ppfd, ler, qer ?

Something like this? I cherrypicked the numbers a few month ago, I believe from one of the EB threads.

EBgen2 vs. EBgen1:
----------------------------------
EB Series Gen2 3000K@700mA(43,75mA)
QER=4.84 µmol/J
LER=331.66 lm/W
= 2.55 µmol/J

EB Series Gen1 3000K@700mA(87,5mA)
QER=4.87 µmol/J
LER=324.99 lm/W
= 2.34 µmol/J

Generation 2 has almost twice as much diodes and they run with only half the current as gen.1.

 

[ANC]

The difference equals about 2 20W CFL's worth of light for every 300W.

 

[Nutria]

Something like this? I cherrypicked the numbers a few month ago, I believe from one of the EB threads.

EBgen2 vs. EBgen1:
----------------------------------
EB Series Gen2 3000K@700mA(43,75mA)
QER=4.84 µmol/J
LER=331.66 lm/W
= 2.55 µmol/J

EB Series Gen1 3000K@700mA(87,5mA)
QER=4.87 µmol/J
LER=324.99 lm/W
= 2.34 µmol/J

Generation 2 has almost twice as much diodes and they run with only half the current as gen.1.

thanks a lot
Can't understand what the "43,75mA" is
I wanna find out what the PPF or PPFD is starting from the PAR joules we have, I would appreciate your help

 

[Randomblame]

thanks a lot
Can't understand what the "43,75mA" is
I wanna find out what the PPF or PPFD is starting from the PAR joules we have, I would appreciate your help

It's the current each EB-strip diode gets.
There are several strings in parallel on LED strips. In case of F-Series for instance there are 9 parallel stings á 8 diodes(8S9P). EBgen.2 use 7 diode strings but 16 in parallel(7S16P). 7 EB strip diodes in series needs 19,5v and if you divide the 700mA thru the 16 parallel strings you get the 43,75mA per diode/string.

 

[Nutria]

So guys I am having some hard time wiring my strips, probably those connectors hate me.
I am using stranded wire and tried to tin it but when trying to poke it in it just bends.

Any suggestions?

 

[Randomblame]

So guys I am having some hard time wiring my strips, probably those connectors hate me.
I am using stranded wire and tried to tin it but when trying to poke it in it just bends.

Any suggestions?

Yepp, I have one! Use solid/single core wire!
The same which is used for internal wiring of T5/T8 sockets(AWG20).
AWG18-22 works fine!
e3ay is cheap or drive to the next hardware store if you want it right now.
Tinned wire ends are not a good idea because they leave residues in the connectors.

 

[ANC]

I didn't have enough so I used stranded wire and only soldered on some solid core wire for the ends.

I know on the Samsung boards one side has two exposed copper pads you could solder directly to. Check if the Bridgeys have something similar.

 

[Nutria]

Yepp, I have one! Use solid/single core wire!
The same which is used for internal wiring of T5/T8 sockets(AWG20).
AWG18-22 works fine!
e3ay is cheap or drive to the next hardware store if you want it right now.
Tinned wire ends are not a good idea because they leave residues in the connectors.

unfortunately can't find anything like that on stores near me.
BTW how do connectors works? (EB2) there are small holes on top of connectors, any use?

 

[Randomblame]

Yeah, the Blux strips also have solder points on one end, Ø 5mm

 

[Randomblame]

unfortunately can't find anything like that on stores near me.
BTW how do connectors works? (EB2) there are small holes on top of connectors, any use?

In short, just poke in or slowly twist and pull to get it out. You can also use a small wire in the top hole to open the connection for easier remove. Both works!
No old T5 or T8 tubes lying around? If necessary, you can find some in the junkyard. The wire in only one of these old 4ft. amatures are probably long enough to connect all of your strips.

 

[Randomblame]

If you can not find one, use a smaller cross section stranded wire. AWG20 or 22, hard twisted but not tinned and twist and push it slowly to get it in the connectors. And twist only in one direction so it does not break up again. A smaller wire cross section fits better/easier inside the connctors.

 

[Nutria]

If you can not find one, use a smaller cross section stranded wire. AWG20 or 22, hard twisted but not tinned and twist and push it slowly to get it in the connectors. And twist only in one direction so it does not break up again. A smaller wire cross section fits better/easier inside the connctors.

I'll check for some fluorescent lights waste.
Problem with stranded wire is that it just bend if you try to push it in and I am worried to break it inside the connector while trying to take it out.

I am probably blind since I can't see how connectors are made, should I push the wire straight inside or from top to down movement? Anything special?

Damn wires!

 

[noodle-led]

I used 20AWG solid core wire in my gen 2 strips and also had a hard time getting them to insert. It requires a pretty good amount of force or at least more than I was expecting. The wires also need to go almost to the back where the connector starts to taper down, which is further than I expected. Once I was able to get one inserted a couple times, it made sense and I could easily gauge how much force was needed and how to push them right in.

Why not just solder on the exposed pads on the strips though? I ended up doing this just because I wanted all my wires to run along the edge of the fixture instead of being strung along 50mm from the end. At first I was concerned about the connections being high voltage and exposed as opposed to being inside the poke-in connectors. Then I realized those solder pads are always going to be exposed regardless of if I soldered to them or not.

 

[Randomblame]

I'll check for some fluorescent lights waste.
Problem with stranded wire is that it just bend if you try to push it in and I am worried to break it inside the connector while trying to take it out.

I am probably blind since I can't see how connectors are made, should I push the wire straight inside or from top to down movement? Anything special?

Damn wires!

Yes, these are exactly the right ones, you will definitely find enough wire there!
Below a screenshot of the Samung recommendations.
Stripping 8mm off of the isolation and push it straight inside the connector! With solid core wire a breeze!

 

[skoomd]

Yes, these are exactly the right ones, you will definitely find enough wire there!
Below a screenshot of the Samung recommendations.
Stripping 8mm off of the isolation and push it straight inside the connector! With solid core wire a breeze!
View attachment 4117684

Yeah I used 18 gauge solid core wire for my poke ins, it was super easy to get it to latch in with it. I would tin the wire if you're using stranded though. Or twist it really good.

And the connectors can handle something like 300 volts if i remember right. But I wouldnt run more than a few strips in parallel through them as a lot of current will flow through the first strip. I used wagos so the only large amount of current flows through them.

 

[Nutria]

Going to use this to flower a 2x3x3 tent at 120-150w
I hope I can keep plants close to the fixture to offset the low wattage