Show me your drying set ups

chiqifella

Well-Known Member
I hate repeating this precedent but I have posted it before. I am sorry I don’t have the link saved but a while back a concentrate company was busted in MI for 3 day hang drying plants. The judge deemed usable marijuana over the limits.

Dated jars for curing are our only defense left. Mine are labeled hanging in the closet and then the jars are labeled after dry trim and weight taken. They are expected to cure 90 days from jarring and the drying branches are labeled expected to be on that cycle for 1-2 weeks.

So there are clear stages the flowers have to go through before medically usable. All labeled and documented.


The company got busted because there was no curing provisions and the buds felt dry enough to the officer I guess.
dated jars means zip my friend. look it up. weed is dry when court date is here, you think they look into rh, stem snap, chlorophyll etc...maybe finish trim for us too?...nah

otherwise we'd all keep hanging plants until a bud is sold right? we could have 72 hanging, 72 in jars, 72 growing, and 15 ounces on hand....nah:?dont fool yourself.
Iknow some growers mislabel it all in hopes it might save them someday if busted.
so much easier to just keep it tidy and right, than to fight in court.
 
Last edited:

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
I've been going back and forth between different drying methods and this seems like a good thread for feedback as well as pushing the method if anyone likes it. I plan on using my tent (5x5) as the drying room and I'm thinking chop them at the base and hang the whole plant, there's a few sources on it but not too much. Anyone do this and recommend it? I'm thinking it might keep the plant alive a little bit longer and squeeze out some last minute trichomes and have a long slow dry. Newb speaking so please season me.
theres not really anything in the stalk or stems of the plant that the plant needs while drying....except water. if you have a hard time keeping humidity up, leave the buds on the larger stems initially, it slows down the process a little. if you have a good handle on RH, you can cut them down to the smaller branches for the initial dry, then trim them later.
 

chiqifella

Well-Known Member
I’m low key too, I’m only on the net chatting because I don’t want to tell friends.
And only signed up after I’ve been legal for some time.
I just know a guy that knows how to grow, n he hooks me up.

That’s bull shit they are out witch hunting .
I keep all my numbers in check, and usually keep 1 plant less then allowed. I just gotta pay attention to all the trim, had a key of it in my freezer n forgot about it.
But because im a med user and I’m a med grower for others I’m probably allowed a lot more then you guys .
nobody is witch hunting. less than 1% of marijuana growers are hassled by feds medical or not. 99% of the busted med growers were breaking rules is all. best to not get caught with my pants down though, I keep weights and numbers tidy, I feel its part of the challenge and privilege. they made the rules and I agreed to stick to them. My grow building was inspected by the state police, locals, fire dept, and my insurance complainy before I had one seed germ'd.

I'm more afraid of my insurance company, and their decisions to not cover losses resulting from growing weed if they occurred. cops were great, fire dept very helpful, linked me to a fire control company that fully equipped my spaces for cheap. Insurance is the only entity that every follows up on my operations, and it pisses me off.
 

chiqifella

Well-Known Member
I've been going back and forth between different drying methods and this seems like a good thread for feedback as well as pushing the method if anyone likes it. I plan on using my tent (5x5) as the drying room and I'm thinking chop them at the base and hang the whole plant, there's a few sources on it but not too much. Anyone do this and recommend it? I'm thinking it might keep the plant alive a little bit longer and squeeze out some last minute trichomes and have a long slow dry. Newb speaking so please season me.
if your environment is controlled you could hang/trim/jimmy your buds anyway you like.
 

Randomestguy

Well-Known Member
Well seems by overwhelming majority there's no real plus to hanging the whole thing as opposed to any other way, just spewing back what I read on some site lol but thanks everyone for the input. And @Cold$moke, just a tidbit I think humidity is the frost enhancer, not that the other factors don't have a part to play just that the trichomes are meant to protect it and hold in water so air dryness might be the biggest factor (plus maybe a shortcut into drying before unplugging the dehumidifier) but let us know how it goes
 

BigHornBuds

Well-Known Member
I do it more because its a habbit.

But i havent seen any studies to prove it helps

But i usually give mine at least 24-hrs dark
And i try to blast them with some cold on their last few days :)

This harvest im going to see what happens when i simulate a drought in the last 3 days with cold and then dark time n chop
I “drought” stress 10 ish days before chop
I find visually it produces more glads from the stress.
The temp drop will bring out the purples n fall colors, you’ll get the most color by dropping your temp on night cycle tho

I can’t do 24-48 hrs dark, because I’m perpetual, i go in just before the lights turn on n chop the base, then work on cutting it up n getting it out with the lights on.

I’m designing a new trellis scrog system to fix the problems that come along with scrog n perpetual. And also fixed the pain in the ass to remove the plants .

It never ends it seems .
 

BigHornBuds

Well-Known Member
Well seems by overwhelming majority there's no real plus to hanging the whole thing as opposed to any other way, just spewing back what I read on some site lol but thanks everyone for the input. And @Cold$moke, just a tidbit I think humidity is the frost enhancer, not that the other factors don't have a part to play just that the trichomes are meant to protect it and hold in water so air dryness might be the biggest factor (plus maybe a shortcut into drying before unplugging the dehumidifier) but let us know how it goes
Running your plant dry at the end like your suggesting will speed up your drying process, it will also make your bud harsh n taste like shit if there is a taste other then hay.
 

Randomestguy

Well-Known Member
Running your plant dry at the end like your suggesting will speed up your drying process, it will also make your bud harsh n taste like shit if there is a taste other then hay.
Low humidity only while the plant is alive, dry as normal procedure afterwards is what I meant, still the case? And I also wanted to ask about your perpetual, what medium do you use? I was thinking of upgrading to perpetual down the road and that's a ridiculous amount of any medium really (possible upgrade to 5x9 flower tent and use current 5x5 for veg) so hydro seems to be a good contender for a much larger setup but cross that bridge after it gets built much less getting there lol.
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Well seems by overwhelming majority there's no real plus to hanging the whole thing as opposed to any other way, just spewing back what I read on some site lol but thanks everyone for the input. And @Cold$moke, just a tidbit I think humidity is the frost enhancer, not that the other factors don't have a part to play just that the trichomes are meant to protect it and hold in water so air dryness might be the biggest factor (plus maybe a shortcut into drying before unplugging the dehumidifier) but let us know how it goes
Im pretty sure it's the opposite not positive

My dehuey is always on in my flower room lol
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Running your plant dry at the end like your suggesting will speed up your drying process, it will also make your bud harsh n taste like shit if there is a taste other then hay.
You talking about me running the roots dry at the end?
It shouldnt cause i try to get a nice fade

My plants have tasted good quick dried in a dehumidifier before lol(of course not as good as a proper dry)
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Also i dont drop temps for color i do it for terps

I always find its the tastiest when cold grown

Imo hot grows fuck the flavor plus high ec = harsh shit buds.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
Low humidity only while the plant is alive, dry as normal procedure afterwards is what I meant, still the case? And I also wanted to ask about your perpetual, what medium do you use? I was thinking of upgrading to perpetual down the road and that's a ridiculous amount of any medium really (possible upgrade to 5x9 flower tent and use current 5x5 for veg) so hydro seems to be a good contender for a much larger setup but cross that bridge after it gets built much less getting there lol.
the purposes of drying and curing is to 1, obviously, dry the plant out so its in a smokable state.
2, give the chlorophyll, sugars, and carbohydrates time to break down. the plant needs to be above 62% water content for that to happen, once it drops below that, the process stops, and cannot be started again. it takes at least 5 days for a significant portion of that material to break down. if you drop below 62% rh before that, process stops, for good. so i would water right up to the end, and allow them the time they need to get all that done.
 

Randomestguy

Well-Known Member
Im pretty sure it's the opposite not positive

My dehuey is always on in my flower room lol
I couldn't say as I'm greener than my seedlings, just logical thinking is the transpiration is controlled by leaves flowers etc so the dry air stimuli is what would beef up trichs and resin to stop as much water being transpired. Thats my thought process on it. But it's just speculation on my part cuz I've turned my brain into a weedcyclopedia but it's my first grow.
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
Mabey

Its close
I always thougt it was a self protection mechanisim for uv rays

But like you say it is to prevent moisture loss?

This is why i want to dry the root zone some before i chop

Ill take a picright before i dry them then ill take another pic of the same bud when i chop

Will be interesting
 

Randomestguy

Well-Known Member
the purposes of drying and curing is to 1, obviously, dry the plant out so its in a smokable state.
2, give the chlorophyll, sugars, and carbohydrates time to break down. the plant needs to be above 62% water content for that to happen, once it drops below that, the process stops, and cannot be started again. it takes at least 5 days for a significant portion of that material to break down. if you drop below 62% rh before that, process stops, for good. so i would water right up to the end, and allow them the time they need to get all that done.
The logic is to have dry as possible air just to get some frost but if the plant is still living the internal water level should be ok for 2 days or so before backing off the dehuey right? Lol might just skip all the extra go standard.
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
why would transpiration lead to more trichs? thats making the plant work harder at a process that has nothing to do with thc production. plants don't produce trichs in response to drought , they produce more trichs to protect themselves from the sun, UV produces more trichs, less water produces a dry plant......a "stress reaction" doesn't necessarilly mean more trichome production, as a matter of fact, drought response is the exact opposite, the plant tries to draw all its resources into its central core, so not watering is never going to make more trichs
 

Randomestguy

Well-Known Member
Mabey

Its close
I always thougt it was a self protection mechanisim for uv rays

But like you say it is to prevent moisture loss?

This is why i want to dry the root zone some before i chop

Ill take a picright before i dry them then ill take another pic of the same bud when i chop

Will be interesting
That's the badass part mj is like a plant swiss army knife lmao
 

Cold$moke

Well-Known Member
the purposes of drying and curing is to 1, obviously, dry the plant out so its in a smokable state.
2, give the chlorophyll, sugars, and carbohydrates time to break down. the plant needs to be above 62% water content for that to happen, once it drops below that, the process stops, and cannot be started again. it takes at least 5 days for a significant portion of that material to break down. if you drop below 62% rh before that, process stops, for good. so i would water right up to the end, and allow them the time they need to get all that done.
I agree with part of what your saying

But im sure the plant will still have plenty of moisture in it especially how low and slow i dry

When i say dry out the root zone im still going to have very small amount in the buckets but it should simulate a drought

Just for shits and gigs anyways its not like my current grow is crazy on point this run :)
 

Randomestguy

Well-Known Member
why would transpiration lead to more trichs? thats making the plant work harder at a process that has nothing to do with thc production. plants don't produce trichs in response to drought , they produce more trichs to protect themselves from the sun, UV produces more trichs, less water produces a dry plant......a "stress reaction" doesn't necessarilly mean more trichome production, as a matter of fact, drought response is the exact opposite, the plant tries to draw all its resources into its central core, so not watering is never going to make more trichs
Idk about backing off on the watering but I read somewhere the dry air is what does that not drought conditions
 
Top