homebrewer
Well-Known Member
Because when growing in promix/coco/soil you don't need a lot of phosphorus.why would this be? also I do get the clumping of the dyna products.. I put them in 1 oz containers to limit this.
Because when growing in promix/coco/soil you don't need a lot of phosphorus.why would this be? also I do get the clumping of the dyna products.. I put them in 1 oz containers to limit this.
Yeah, that's how I've always looked at it. If you feed more frequently then you'd need to lower the EC of your mix. Less frequently and you'd need a higher EC mix. Generally speaking of course. If I have a bigger plant than normal that's drinking everyday then I'll consciously cut the mix in half because I feed at every watering.Hey Homebrewer
Can't tell you how much you have helped me with the DG and Promix advice and overall grow tips. Believe I've read about everything you've posted, some post many times.
One thing I'm still unclear on - ppm vs. frequency of watering. Using Promix BX in a 4 GL container and well water at 5-10 ppm. If I water once every 5 days (using the "light container" method) at say 5 ml/GL of FP, 1.5 ml of Protek (total 275-300 ppm) is that the equivalent of 1 ml and .3 ml every day ?
I use LEDs with plenty of PPFD, but they don't have the radiant heat that HIDs have, contributes to slow drying. Temps run 78 down to 70, humidity 45-55%
BTW - Girls look great, never better, simpler or cheaper.
I'd try to run your FP test at 0.5 EC or so but it also depends on many things. FP does have a decent does of nitrogen so feeding too much can make things toxic eventually.HB I am going to Do a side by side of FP/ and my current regimine in the coming weeks, and I will trust you on this one. I am curious about running it through. Il try to keep all variables consistent. My biggest concern is not just the nitrogen levels ,but the fact it is ammonical nitrogen. Is my concern unfounded?
Northnermich thx for the info on Lucas. There is a formula with GH called " the useless formula" that uses some grow, I only know a friend that has tried it and he loved his results. I wonder if that would be any better.
Never realized a little less humidity could be detrimental, it never seemed to mattered, just always assumed be proactive about things like mold. I will tick it up a little bit though.
I put a promix mix together that needs to be watered about every other day. Some people in coco need to water 2x day. I don't think there is a rule of thumb to follow but in general I think you get higher performance when you water more often. 5-7 days is a long time between waterings, IMO. I'm sure there are organic guys that may water once every 5 days but those mixes normally hold water and already have the food mixed in. It's a different beast.Hey HB
Thanks so much for the reply. After lurking for years, I'm shooting the questions out !
Is there anything wrong with container size/environment that only needs watering every 5-7 days ?
I have heard it said the "if your plant needs watering in less than 1 week, the container is too small" I bet that's an oversimplification, but is it better to have shorter watering cycles - better growth/yield ?
Nitrogen is needed for growth and as we all know these plants put on a lot of weight during flower. It's a little known secret in this community that cutting back N in flower is a horrible idea when growing in containers. I'm surprised that you were low using FP. What EC are you feeding at and how often?Nitrogen question .. Using just FP and silica Did a soil test promix mixed with a little ff happy frog and perlite results = N low P sufficient K Sufficient this was 4 weeks into flower Veg plants soil test came back NPK all sufficient.. What causes the plant to use so much N during flower time? seems most ferts cut the n during flower but the little tablet test i used says they use that N fast and need it into flower.
How'd your leaves look? Do you get yellowing or any leaf drop? Leaf drop can also be from moisture stress.Using as what the bottle states 1/4 teaspoon pro tek 1/4 teaspoon of fp ph of 6.5 to 6.8 ro water ec 0.3 fed every water.
I think you could safely inch up your feeding levels to 0.5 EC and play it from there. I'd rather be on the light side than the irreversible heavy side.early yellowing.
Part of me thinks that these plant food companies want us to use larger doses so we have to buy more of their product more frequently. The reality is that feeding at those levels will really hurt the quality of the final product and growers are quick to blame the plant food when in reality it was grower error. Growers should know better than to feed that high regardless of whether it's 'recommended' by the manufacturer.As for EC counts why do so many web sites and nutrient sellers say the proper EC as much as 2.0 for flower?
You need final flush and the rest of the cartoon bottles to maximize your yield and be a master grower.. just sayin.Assuming I was only using base nutrients for this entire grow and assuming the same feeding levels and flowering period, DynaGro would cost $14.09 for the entire flowering cycle versus Connoisseur A&B which would cost $32.17. The $18 difference per flowering period could easily be negated should Connoisseur be the superior yielding fertilizer. We shall see.
What kind of ratio are you running for flower HB? Is it like 3 parts bloom to 1 part foilage pro, or is it almost half and half?plant food
Hydro or soilless?What kind of ratio are you running for flower HB? Is it like 3 parts bloom to 1 part foilage pro, or is it almost half and half?
Soiless. I'm in coco. I'm thinking 3 parts bloom to 1 part foilage pro, how close does that sound to your ratio?Hydro or soilless?