Looking for cob lighting

Kage87

Active Member
So here it is...I have a 32in x 32in x 63in (height) tent...looking for cobs to suit a full grow cycle...but I also don't want to learn to be an electrician lol...would anyone be able to give me a shopping list of required materials..all materials..I live in canada do alot of the sites you use will end up being very pricey with shipping and duties...I feel confident in the build just don't know exactly the parts I need..any help is appreciated. (And will save me from my current blurple hell :) )
 

Humple

Well-Known Member
So here it is...I have a 32in x 32in x 63in (height) tent...looking for cobs to suit a full grow cycle...but I also don't want to learn to be an electrician lol...would anyone be able to give me a shopping list of required materials..all materials..I live in canada do alot of the sites you use will end up being very pricey with shipping and duties...I feel confident in the build just don't know exactly the parts I need..any help is appreciated. (And will save me from my current blurple hell :) )
What's your budget?
 

Kage87

Active Member
What's your budget?
Well like I said in canada so it's hard to say stuff costs more or less here..(if I can even get specific parts I. E I've read heats inks are hard to find...basically looking for a shopping list..I'm very interested in anything that is very suitable for the space I have as I want full results
 

Humple

Well-Known Member
Well like I said in canada so it's hard to say stuff costs more or less here..(if I can even get specific parts I. E I've read heats inks are hard to find...basically looking for a shopping list..I'm very interested in anything that is very suitable for the space I have as I want full results
Are you married to the idea of COBs, or would you consider using strips? The Samsung F Series strips have proven to be extremely popular. The Bridgelux EB Series is also a solid option for a strip-based fixture.

COBs would work just fine too, but strip lights seem to be cheaper, on average. Depending on how you configure things, a strip light could be an easier build as well.
 

Humple

Well-Known Member
Either or as long as the performance is similar throughout both veg and bloom
Strips are absolutely equal to COBs. Many here would say they're better because they offer more points of light, which is supposed to create a better spread (though I have seen arguments to counter that). In any case, there are strip-light growers all over this forum now, and more jump aboard each day. Definitely the hot thing right now, at least on RiU.

Digest this and you'll have a much better idea of what your options are (all parts listed include links to purchase them): http://ledgardener.com/diy-led-strip-build-designs-samsung-bridgelux/
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
And which of the 3x3 setups that they specify would you recommend?
Check my sig

Strips are absolutely equal to COBs. Many here would say they're better because they offer more points of light, which is supposed to create a better spread (though I have seen arguments to counter that). In any case, there are strip-light growers all over this forum now, and more jump aboard each day. Definitely the hot thing right now, at least on RiU.
Better spread and better light penetration

This is my 3x3 setup with strips at 18", ungodly even light spread

[/QUOTE]
 

Slinging PAR

Well-Known Member
Future electronics is your best bet up here. Bridgelux Vero 29 SE (get version C) have poke in connectors so you don't have to do any solder.

For drivers your can go meanwell or whatever and use wagos to connect the wires. Very simple wiring.

Don't bother with heat sinks, just use aluminum sheet/plate and run the cobs soft. You can even use stainless steel mixing bowls from the dollar store to mount cobs on and and as a bonus they also act as a good reflector to focus the light down into your grow area.
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
Not really. His light source is only about 800-850 ppf which for 330w is fairly inefficient these days. It can be easily doubled with 12-15 Vero 29s using the same amount of power.

Lol. In what world do you live on that 2.56 umol/joule at the board level, or 2.36 umol/joule after driver losses is "ineffecient these days".

12-15 vero 29s would cost substantially more than my build. A single vero 29 gen 7 cob is $25. Plus another $10-20 for a heatsink. Making for $35-45 per COB. My strips cost $14 each, and the heatsinks costed me $3 each. For $17 per strip.
 

Slinging PAR

Well-Known Member
Lol. In what world do you live on that 2.56 umol/joule at the board level, or 2.36 umol/joule after driver losses is "ineffecient these days".

12-15 vero 29s would cost substantially more than my build. A single vero 29 gen 7 cob is $25. Plus another $10-20 for a heatsink. Making for $35-45 per COB. My strips cost $14 each, and the heatsinks costed me $3 each. For $17 per strip.

Yeah it is inefficient by today's standards. I haven't run anything in flower less than 3 ppf/J for more than 2 years now. Plus I have the proper tools to verify which makes all the difference in the world.

As for crying about the upfront cost, boo hoo. You don't need bulky heat sinks when simple aluminum sheet will do just fine. Bridgelux CoBs are far superior to other CoBs as it pertains to thermal transfer which is what makes them so good to use. If cost of light was such a big deal then the best option would be to buy a19/e27 bulbs on sale at big box stores.

For the cost of assembled DIY based offerings you can double the amount of cobs by buying from an electronics supplier if cost is an issue. You can save even more by going with drivers other than meanwell that perform just as well. Doing your homework will be the biggest cost savings.

Then you have those of us who aren't concerned about the upfront costs and just want the best. It gives us the advantage for these kind of debates because we don't have such limitations that require other components, like heat sinks, which further chew into the cost. And we know better to spend the money on the proper tools for measuring what actually matters. QBs, strips and other gimmicks will never be able to compete with CoBs on LES density which means less options over all.

Summarily, no matter what kind of performance you can get out of QB or strips they will always be able to be out done by CoBs for any given space. Want to upgrade? Just add more CoBs in parallel. You will run out of space far faster with QB/strips than CoBs.
 

Chef420

Well-Known Member
I was in a similar situation as yours. I have a 3x3 and was upgrading from a 600w hps. I’m relatively handy but live in a condo so no home shop. I went with the 3x3 kit from rapidled. Even with the exchange and duty I still think I did ok. Great light. Easy enough to put together. You can get an idea of what’s involved.
 

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skoomd

Well-Known Member
Yeah it is inefficient by today's standards. I haven't run anything in flower less than 3 ppf/J for more than 2 years now. Plus I have the proper tools to verify which makes all the difference in the world.

As for crying about the upfront cost, boo hoo. You don't need bulky heat sinks when simple aluminum sheet will do just fine. Bridgelux CoBs are far superior to other CoBs as it pertains to thermal transfer which is what makes them so good to use. If cost of light was such a big deal then the best option would be to buy a19/e27 bulbs on sale at big box stores.

For the cost of assembled DIY based offerings you can double the amount of cobs by buying from an electronics supplier if cost is an issue. You can save even more by going with drivers other than meanwell that perform just as well. Doing your homework will be the biggest cost savings.

Then you have those of us who aren't concerned about the upfront costs and just want the best. It gives us the advantage for these kind of debates because we don't have such limitations that require other components, like heat sinks, which further chew into the cost. And we know better to spend the money on the proper tools for measuring what actually matters. QBs, strips and other gimmicks will never be able to compete with CoBs on LES density which means less options over all.

Summarily, no matter what kind of performance you can get out of QB or strips they will always be able to be out done by CoBs for any given space. Want to upgrade? Just add more CoBs in parallel. You will run out of space far faster with QB/strips than CoBs.

I would LOVE to see your 2 year old light setup that is 3 umol/joule. Because I REALLY doubt it fucking exists. That would require about 200 lumens/watt AFTER 5-8% DRIVER LOSS. Which using vero gen 7s would require you run them at about 5-7 watts each.

You do realize that the samsung LM561C diodes on the strips are inherently more efficient than a vero 29? It would be MUCH smarter to simply add more samsung strips than to swap over to Vero 29s.

Even with quatum boards, you'd have to be running them at like 10 watts each to hit 200 lumens/w after driver losses.

You're trolling is so fucking sad.
 

Slinging PAR

Well-Known Member
I would LOVE to see your 2 year old light setup that is 3 umol/joule. Because I REALLY doubt it fucking exists. That would require about 200 lumens/watt AFTER 5-8% DRIVER LOSS. Which using vero gen 7s would require you run them at about 5-7 watts each.

You do realize that the samsung LM561C diodes on the strips are inherently more efficient than a vero 29? It would be MUCH smarter to simply add more samsung strips than to swap over to Vero 29s.

Even with quatum boards, you'd have to be running them at like 10 watts each to hit 200 lumens/w after driver losses.

You're trolling is so fucking sad.

Wrong again. Vero 29 C 3000k 80 CRI clock in at 228lm/w, 3.3 ppf/J at just under 26w each. It is publicly available information that you can verify yourself.

This isn't trolling. Just because you are wrong and getting embarrassed on an internet forum by some random person on the internet doesn't make it trolling. I am just correcting your misinformation so others don't follow your wrong advice.

You aren't the first newbie on these forums claiming to be an expert after purchasing from one of the site vendors and probably won't be the last.
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
Wrong again. Vero 29 C 3000k 80 CRI clock in at 228lm/w, 3.3 ppf/J at just under 26w each. It is publicly available information that you can verify yourself.

This isn't trolling. Just because you are wrong and getting embarrassed on an internet forum by some random person on the internet doesn't make it trolling. I am just correcting your misinformation so others don't follow your wrong advice.

You aren't the first newbie on these forums claiming to be an expert after purchasing from one of the site vendors and probably won't be the last.
LOL okay bud. Funny how the spreadsheet doesn't list that info at all. The lowest rating on the spreadsheet for the Vero 29 C 3000k 80 cri is 56.6w and is 185 lumens/w at that level. Please enlighten me on how it goes up to 228 lumens/w by halfing the wattage. Show me this information you speak of.

And SHOW ME THIS LIGHT.

I'm done talking with you. You are obviously the worst troll ive ever seen.
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
Wrong again. Vero 29 C 3000k 80 CRI clock in at 228lm/w, 3.3 ppf/J at just under 26w each. It is publicly available information that you can verify yourself.

This isn't trolling. Just because you are wrong and getting embarrassed on an internet forum by some random person on the internet doesn't make it trolling. I am just correcting your misinformation so others don't follow your wrong advice.

You aren't the first newbie on these forums claiming to be an expert after purchasing from one of the site vendors and probably won't be the last.
And dont you dare quote the product simulator. It shows 300 lumens/w at low current levels. Which is total bullshit. That's edging the realm of what the theoretical MAXIMUM lumen/w of a 3000k 80 cri lightsource is capable of.
 

Slinging PAR

Well-Known Member
And dont you dare quote the product simulator. It shows 300 lumens/w at low current levels. Which is total bullshit. That's edging the realm of what the theoretical MAXIMUM lumen/w of a 3000k 80 cri lightsource is capable of.
BS really? I think I have more faith in Bridgelux testing than what some random internet person thinks.

More importantly though is the measurements in operation, which I am glad to say Bridgelux meets and more than often exceeds the performance expectations.

Tell us more about your ideas on theoretical maximum lm/w. This should be fun :)
 

skoomd

Well-Known Member
Tell us more about your ideas on theoretical maximum lm/w. This should be fun :)
It's called luminous efficacy rating (LER). If you knew anything about lighting, you would already know that. And for a vero 29, it's around 326 lumen/w. Bye
 
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