SoCal Calyx
Active Member
Beautiful!
How tall was this plant? What canopy depth do you shoot for with your 600 watters?
How tall was this plant? What canopy depth do you shoot for with your 600 watters?
Not that tall. These were shorter than preferred. But I had a spot open and wanted to stay on schedule. Depth depends on strain. If they are not super leafy I’ll go for 2.5ft. Real leafy like this cheese a little lessBeautiful!
How tall was this plant? What canopy depth do you shoot for with your 600 watters?
holy cow! that was a lot of reading Glad you enjoyed it! Still a lot more to be learned, but glad we can all learn together. Cheers!Finally all read up on this thread.
I admire your passion for growing and learning. Thanks for being here to help!
Quick flower update:
Confidential Cheese @ 42 days in the 5 gal pumice SIPs (wish I would have done 7 gals....). Looking forward to seeing the swell on these last two weeks. The pumice SIPs are a smashing success... and I'm happy to say that all my plants that are not in no-tills are now in pumice SIPs. This has been fun
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Brainwreck in 20 gal no-tills @ 28 days (really liking how these are looking... killer frost production already!)
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Other happenings in the garden:
I transplanted my three phenos of Platinum Delights by Sin City Seeds. I'm flipping them when the confidential cheese is done in 2 weeks. They are in 5 gal pumice SIPs and are not going to be large plants by any means (hopefully lol) as I'm trying to figure out what pheno I want to keep out of the three (there are two plants of each pheno) and I'm running all six of them at once. But, as they are smaller, I probably won't topdress them and just let soil do what it does... produce the DANK. Also, in this pheno hunt, I have one of each pheno in a different soil mix. Both mixes are brand new: one is more diverse in terms of inputs, and the other is a slightly modified coots mix (+ greensand for sure, and I think biolive but can't remember off the top of my head...) with the NPK value amendments at 2/3cup per cubic foot of base and OSF at the regular 1/2cup per cubic foot. I posted one of the mixes a few weeks ago but I don't remember which one lol, I need to go back and look. So let's enjoy a little side by side soil mix along with this pheno hunt shall we? I'll get some pics and do a little analysis of my initial impressions of the different phenos in veg this coming weekend. Looking forward to this hunt, as I have never run a cookies strain before...
Will also get pics of the Pre-98 Bubba Kush this coming weekend (the ones I took over the weekend were not great). It's also in the more diverse, brand new mix in a 7 gal pumice SIP, and the onset of flowers at 14 days is looking and smelling amazing... can't believe how quick its coming along.
Thanks for stopping by; until next time.....
Yeah I find that stuff pretty cool. I have a degree in Chemistry and minor in Biology (I wanted to be a doc, then I saw the tuition and stopped at my BS degree lol)nothing to do with the garden... but if you live science, botany, biology, chemistry, whatever.... Latin and Greek are used throughout these fields. I think it's a cool thing to understand how the terms in these fields came together by breaking them down to their root forms. I dunno, maybe I'm a nerd lol. anyway, here's a link i found the other day...
yeah the pH is still too high. the problem is that i've diluted these mixes with too much compost over time, which is a pH neutralizer, and I've lost that good acidity. My new mix so far is showing much better results. I also am seeing some improvement in the old soil with the acid mix fertilizer that I topdressed mixed with some fishbone meal, gypsum, and banana peels.Your plants look healthy as can be. I'm curious to see if getting your PH dialed with boost yields and swell up the nugs.
I could be wrong here (done a lot of reading lately, can't always remember where I read what) but I think you are not doing much in the way of teas? More of a topdresser? I just wanna mention I recall Rasta Roy saying he wasn't happy on the yields with his water only recipe, once he started adding teas that's when yields came for him.
Couldnt tell you how many times, but it was at least 18 months of use, if not 24. Just added way too much compost over time. Cutting with peat and pumice is a good move imoGlad to see things are still looking good over here shluby! How many times did you amend or reuse your soil before experiencing the issues you just point out? I was having issues too and I was on my 3rd cycle. I just cut it all with 50% peat/pumice mix
Happy gardening
why the gypsum? is it for aeration?Pre98 Bubba Kush test plant 21 days in. In brand new mix of Peat/Coco, Pumice, EWC/Malibu's Compost, biolive, gypsum, alfalfa, neem, OSF, fishbone meal, kelp, greensand, crab meal, and rock dusts. Just topdressed this weekend with malibu's + bloom mix (3-7-4 + crumbled dried banana peels) and pumice for a little aeration. This is looking and smelling GREAT!
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planning on letting her run up to 9 weeks.
Its a ph buffer and source of sulpherwhy the gypsum? is it for aeration?
Its a ph buffer and source of sulpher
Among other things i would imagine
why the gypsum? is it for aeration?
It will raise your calcium w/o raising the Ph and it will raise your sulfur w/o dropping the Ph too badly. The reason for sulfur is to raise the exchangable hydrogen(acid). My last soil test is a perfect example of when to use gypsum because I didn't use any to begin with.why the gypsum? is it for aeration?
well from my own experiments with gypsum to help with pH... i found the sulfur seems to act first, and helped to acidify my soil a bit. but as soon as it was all used up and/or neutralized, i found the Calcium seemed to bring the pH back up. But i'm using it now with no addition of oyster shell flour as an experiment with my recycled mixes (gypsum, fishbone meal, and crab shell meal should provide plenty of Ca). I've found that once the mix is recycled too much, the peat becomes very neutral, and excess calcium in the soil seemed to jack my pH up into or too near the alkaline scale.It will raise your calcium w/o raising the Ph and it will raise your sulfur w/o dropping the Ph too badly. The reason for sulfur is to raise the exchangable hydrogen(acid). My last soil test is a perfect example of when to use gypsum because I didn't use any to begin with.
View attachment 4238140 My exchangeable hydrogen is 1.5% and it needs to be 10-15%. My sulfur and calcium are a little low while my Ph is high, so gypsum would be perfect in my situation.
gypsum is calcium sulfate. its a soil amendment that typically comes pelletized, but when exposed to water readily dissociates from its pellet form. I'm using it as a sulfur and calcium source.why the gypsum? is it for aeration?