Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
By my reading the LM301Bs are max rated at 180ma for 2.91v, or 150w max over a 288 LED board. The 757 Nichias in the 324 board are 200ma for 6.6v, or 428w max over a 324 LED board - that seems to be quite a large difference. Even at 200w, the Nichias are still only running at about 50%.
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
According to this thread: https://www.rollitup.org/t/new-quantum-board-qb324.961834/

It's this one: http://www.nichia.co.jp/de/product/led_product_data.html?type='NF2L757GR-V1'

On the previous page, Robin reckoned the 324 boards could go up to 350w or something.
Ah, okay I see now. Forget my previous post.
Never thought they would use expensive 1,32w diodes to make these boards. LM301b is 0,3w and LM561c 0,5w and both are much cheaper.
But based on the PCB's and diode spacing, I would say that the 324 board is a bit too small for the full 428w. That's why the Nichia are running far below their potential(@160w), while the 561/301 diodes can run with maximum current.

But for me that's just an indication of quality and an even longer shelf life, because even at 200w, they only run at 50% of their potential. If you actively cool the heat sink, you should have many years of enjoyment.

I also like the CRI80/90 mix and use a combination of 3k/CRI80 F-strips and 3k/CRI90 COB's (because there are no efficient CRI90 strips). I like the 324 boards more than the 288v2 simply because of it's spectrum. Hopefully v2 will soon be available with CRI80 / 90 mix or new 324 boards with latest Nichia 757v2 or latest Optisolis diodes. +200lm/w in CRI90 is unbelievable. @welight 's solskins already use them or can at least
be ordered with them. Have you already seen them?

73$ with top bin LM301b or ~95$ with Nichai757v2 and irectly from australia(no custom gees for you)
https://www.rollitup.org/t/sol-skin-let-the-journey-begin.943891/page-15#post-14249785

If not the high shipping and customs would come on top, I would certainly have 2 solskin boards and 6 2ft. solstrips above my 4x2,5' area, lol! The 3 channel design offer much more spectrum control.
 
Last edited:

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Yeah, the crazy thing is, even though we're both in Australia, they're shipping costs are about the same as HLG. And of course Digikey and Arrow etc have free shipping with the Samsung strips.

Apart from that, I did look at the Solskins and the QB324 boards appear to eat them for the same price (or less). That's why I kept asking questions about the QB324s, because if they're really 6.6v chips - and no reason to doubt it - they represent very good value.

Cost aside, the only advantage I can see with the Solskins is they run 54v - meaning you can opt for a CV or CC driver - and they offer a 2K Kelvin option.

If you wanted to light up a couple of 3x3s, what would you do? I'm leaning towards a LED board this time instead of a strip build because the guy I'm building it for wants to grow one 1+lb plant per 3'x3' and the boards will likely offer better penetration and a bit more light in the middle, where the plant is. If I can get the guy to scrog properly, then the strips might still make sense.
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
I've built 5 of these already for myself and friends, using either 4x or 5x F Series, and a couple using 12x H Series strips.

These are all 600mm x 500mm. The new frames I was thinking of building would be 600mm x 600mm with 6x 3000K F Series double-row strips in parallel driven by a remote 320 or 480 CV driver.

The QB324s would definitely be easier to build - just frame 2x boards with a bit of L-shaped aluminium - and the price isn't that much more. But I'd probably be limited to a 480 CC driver. I don't like the fact they'd have 216v running through them in series, but it's not a dealer-breaker.

Newframe.jpg
Newframe2.jpg
 

welight

Well-Known Member
Yeah, the crazy thing is, even though we're both in Australia, they're shipping costs are about the same as HLG. And of course Digikey and Arrow etc have free shipping with the Samsung strips.

Apart from that, I did look at the Solskins and the QB324 boards appear to eat them for the same price (or less). That's why I kept asking questions about the QB324s, because if they're really 6.6v chips - and no reason to doubt it - they represent very good value.

Cost aside, the only advantage I can see with the Solskins is they run 54v - meaning you can opt for a CV or CC driver - and they offer a 2K Kelvin option.

If you wanted to light up a couple of 3x3s, what would you do? I'm leaning towards a LED board this time instead of a strip build because the guy I'm building it for wants to grow one 1+lb plant per 3'x3' and the boards will likely offer better penetration and a bit more light in the middle, where the plant is. If I can get the guy to scrog properly, then the strips might still make sense.
the skins run at 48V, what freight does HLG charge, 6.6v just means half the current is required, efficacy does not change, if they use the same 757 chips we do then the boards output would not be any different(other than diode qty)
Cheers
Mark
 

robincnn

Well-Known Member
With active cooling I'm pretty sure also the 288v2 can be driven at 200w(3,6A) and you would still see lower temps on the v2 side
301B is 200ma
16 strings makes it max 3200mA
we recommend not to exceed 2800ma
3.6A is bad idea.

ledgarderner has tried to blow up a single QBv1 with an HLG-600 and a step-up converter...
In short, impossible!
If you want your board to run for no more than few mins/hours and die then do as you wish.
If you would like it to last for a grow cycle, run within max limits for reliable operation.
 

robincnn

Well-Known Member

robincnn

Well-Known Member
By my reading the LM301Bs are max rated at 180ma for 2.91v, or 150w max over a 288 LED board. The 757 Nichias in the 324 board are 200ma for 6.6v, or 428w max over a 324 LED board - that seems to be quite a large difference. Even at 200w, the Nichias are still only running at about 50%.
301B was updated to 200mA in latest datasheet

We tested Samsung 301B and Nichia NF2 and found 301B performed better when at same wattage. Nichia's performance only when down further as we went above 0.5W/diode. Nichia V2 offers more efficiency but are more price....After considering pricing, efficiency and availability we decide to use Samsung 301B for 288v2 to offer highest efficiency
 
Last edited:

robincnn

Well-Known Member
the skins run at 48V, what freight does HLG charge, 6.6v just means half the current is required, efficacy does not change, if they use the same 757 chips we do then the boards output would not be any different(other than diode qty)
Cheers
Mark
We heard you are trying to make a copy of 288 with 301b ?
Just checkout 'HLG freight charge' on HLG website. GTFO
 

welight

Well-Known Member
We heard you are trying to make a copy of 288 with 301b ?
Just checkout 'HLG freight charge' on HLG website. GTFO
I dont consider Solskin single channel 288 anything other than an original product. I have been very clear stating 3030 leds are where efficacy developments are going, which is why we moved to a 3030 footprint, I am happy to see your onto it
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
the skins run at 48V, what freight does HLG charge, 6.6v just means half the current is required, efficacy does not change, if they use the same 757 chips we do then the boards output would not be any different(other than diode qty)
Cheers
Mark
My mistake - 48V. Not sure where I got 54V from.

Last time I spoke to you guys I was quoted over $70 to ship 10-12 Nichia strips to the other side of the country, so with that and the GST, things started to get a bit pricey. In the end, you didn't have what I needed anyway as the stock on your website didn't match inventory.

For the record, your checkout is now showing postage to be a lot less, so I'm not sure what changed - I just assumed it would be what I was quoted last time, so apologies if that's not the case. I'm not here to mislead anyone
 
Top