Problems with my plant in flower.

[Organorf]

Hi There.

I need some help spotting what is wrong with my flowering Bubble Gum.
The grow medium is Rockwool and I am using EHG Nutes , Micro and Bloom (20ml Micro and 40ml Bloom in 20litre Water) I add a teaspoon of Cal/Mag aswell
(hydroponic.co.za/hydroponics/ehg-micro/)
(hhydroponic.co.za/hydroponics/bloom-easy-hydro-grow/)

I had some Spider Mites before changing the light to 12/12 and sprayed her with a organic pesticide to get rid of them. (hydroponic.co.za/hydroponics/biogrow-pyrol/)
This worked well and the plant recovered nicely.

She was very healthy and I switched to 12/12.
After about three weeks into flower, I got another attack of them spider mites!!
So I sprayed again and they seem to have disappeared, but a week later she is showing some sickness/deficiency which I just can't put my finger on. (See attached Pics) Week 6 of flower

I asked around and people suggested Boron Dif, other suggested Cal/Mag overdose!! (This can't be as I only add a teaspoon in 20litres of water), Some say PH (My PH is 6.2 when I mix up my nutes, It might be a bit different after my reservoir has watered a few times and the return flow goes back into the reservoir.

Can someone please help me figure out what could be wrong?

I have about 4 weeks + flower left.

 

[MoonDuneBuggy]

It appears you have nute burn and a possible lockout. Do not water with 6.2 ph. Certain nutrients cannot be absorbed at that level.

Honestly what I would do if I were you is perform a flush and use unsulphered black strap molasses every other watering till the end. You only have 3 weeks to go my dude. You are at a point that if your plant is not totally fucked you should stop messing with it and ride it out.

 

[nonamedman420]

when you switched from veg, to flower. did you change your nutrient profile? or did you keep giving them a veg nutrient profile until now?

 

[nonamedman420]

you can tell from the claw it was dosed too high (nitrogen claw). like said above, flush your pot, but use 1/4 strength (from what u normally use) because straight water won't leech the nutrient salts built up in your medium.

 

[nonamedman420]

are the light colored spots here and there on the leaves predominately on the uppermost part of the plants, or is it everywhere? you could be too close to the light, causing excessive transpiration, which would burn your plants even with a sane amount of nutes. wind burn causes this too, salts build up in the leaves due to excessive transpiration. they like small changes to environment.nutrients etc... they like consistency. too much of anything, lights, nutes, wind, and they will complain. you will get it, and it will be easy and you will ask yourself, why did i make it so difficult? i think this happens with everyone, don't fret. you will succeed, and hopefully you pay it back to the community with help like this. good luck my friend!!!

 

[Organorf]

It appears you have nute burn and a possible lockout. Do not water with 6.2 ph. Certain nutrients cannot be absorbed at that level.

Honestly what I would do if I were you is perform a flush and use unsulphered black strap molasses every other watering till the end. You only have 3 weeks to go my dude. You are at a point that if your plant is not totally fucked you should stop messing with it and ride it out.

Thanks for your answer.
She has been fine with the nutes I feed her for 4 weeks....well up until now, I cannot see how this could be nute burn.
I started her off on 5.8ph in veg and moved up slowly when I switched the lights to 12/12. It has only been 6.2ph for the last two weeks. I was told that in flower the ph should be 6.1-6.2 (This is my first hydro grow, I use to grow in soil) Maybe it could be a lockout as she was most happy at 5.8-5.9ph. I did a flush about a week ago with 6.0ph water with a little bit of Hydrogen Peroxide. I know there is not allot of time to go, but I really want to stop the progression of this before it screws up my buds.

 

[Organorf]

when you switched from veg, to flower. did you change your nutrient profile? or did you keep giving them a veg nutrient profile until now?

Thanx for the reply.

When I switched over to 12/12 I fed her the same nutes as in veg for about two weeks, then I changed over to flower nutes up until now

 

[Organorf]

you can tell from the claw it was dosed too high (nitrogen claw). like said above, flush your pot, but use 1/4 strength (from what u normally use) because straight water won't leech the nutrient salts built up in your medium.

She has been happy with the amount of nutes I gave her after changing to 12/12, and after switching to flower nutes for the last 4 weeks.(No Nute burn) It is only in this last week I started noticing this happening.

 

[Kushash]

Hi There.

I need some help spotting what is wrong with my flowering Bubble Gum.
The grow medium is Rockwool and I am using EHG Nutes , Micro and Bloom (20ml Micro and 40ml Bloom in 20litre Water) I add a teaspoon of Cal/Mag aswell
(hydroponic.co.za/hydroponics/ehg-micro/)
(hhydroponic.co.za/hydroponics/bloom-easy-hydro-grow/)

I had some Spider Mites before changing the light to 12/12 and sprayed her with a organic pesticide to get rid of them. (hydroponic.co.za/hydroponics/biogrow-pyrol/)
This worked well and the plant recovered nicely.

She was very healthy and I switched to 12/12.
After about three weeks into flower, I got another attack of them spider mites!!
So I sprayed again and they seem to have disappeared, but a week later she is showing some sickness/deficiency which I just can't put my finger on. (See attached Pics) Week 6 of flower

I asked around and people suggested Boron Dif, other suggested Cal/Mag overdose!! (This can't be as I only add a teaspoon in 20litres of water), Some say PH (My PH is 6.2 when I mix up my nutes, It might be a bit different after my reservoir has watered a few times and the return flow goes back into the reservoir.

Can someone please help me figure out what could be wrong?

I have about 4 weeks + flower left.

Wish I could offer some advise going forward but IDK what to offer except for an opinion about your spider mite problem. You were not likely attacked a second time by spider mites. Most likely you thinned them out the 1st time and they started to infest again. I'm pretty sure your second attempt to battle them only decreased their #'s again and they are still there. Spider Mites are the worst, if you still have 3 weeks to go, I have a feeling you will see them again.

 

[Organorf]

are the light colored spots here and there on the leaves predominately on the uppermost part of the plants, or is it everywhere? you could be too close to the light, causing excessive transpiration, which would burn your plants even with a sane amount of nutes. wind burn causes this too, salts build up in the leaves due to excessive transpiration. they like small changes to environment.nutrients etc... they like consistency. too much of anything, lights, nutes, wind, and they will complain. you will get it, and it will be easy and you will ask yourself, why did i make it so difficult? i think this happens with everyone, don't fret. you will succeed, and hopefully you pay it back to the community with help like this. good luck my friend!!!

Yes, it is mostly on the uppermost part of the plant. I also thought it would be light burn on the top of the cola and did move the light up a bit. It is still continuing even though I have about 40cm between the top cola and the light. The airflow and wind in the tent has been the same since the start, so I don't think it could be wind burn. I am however wondering if it might not be that the ph is 6.2 now instead of the happy 5.8-5.9 it use to be about 3 weeks ago.
I am just worried if I look at this pic

 

[Kushash]

Yes, it is mostly on the uppermost part of the plant. I also thought it would be light burn on the top of the cola and did move the light up a bit. It is still continuing even though I have about 40cm between the top cola and the light. The airflow and wind in the tent has been the same since the start, so I don't think it could be wind burn. I am however wondering if it might not be that the ph is 6.2 now instead of the happy 5.8-5.9 it use to be about 3 weeks ago.
I am just worried if I look at this pic

If you are talking about the tiny white specks on the leaves those are most likely from the bug problem. If they are they will continue to spread.

 

[nonamedman420]

Yes, it is mostly on the uppermost part of the plant. I also thought it would be light burn on the top of the cola and did move the light up a bit. It is still continuing even though I have about 40cm between the top cola and the light. The airflow and wind in the tent has been the same since the start, so I don't think it could be wind burn. I am however wondering if it might not be that the ph is 6.2 now instead of the happy 5.8-5.9 it use to be about 3 weeks ago.
I am just worried if I look at this pic

what type of light? 40cm=16 inches. if i put my plants 16' away from my light, they bleach.

 

[nonamedman420]

If you are talking about the tiny white specks on the leaves those are most likely from the bug problem. If they are they will continue to spread.

was talking about the white patches, not spots. bug problems are alleviated by lowering room ambient temps f high, and longer times between waterings help too.

 

[Organorf]

Wish I could offer some advise going forward but IDK what to offer except for an opinion about your spider mite problem. You were not likely attacked a second time by spider mites. Most likely you thinned them out the 1st time and they started to infest again. I'm pretty sure your second attempt to battle them only decreased their #'s again and they are still there. Spider Mites are the worst, if you still have 3 weeks to go, I have a feeling you will see them again.

That's no good news!! Thanks for the heads up though!

 

[Organorf]

If you are talking about the tiny white specks on the leaves those are most likely from the bug problem. If they are they will continue to spread.

It is mostly the yellowing areas on the leaves with the browning edges and spots and the tiny leaves on the cola's starting that light burn like thing from the tip of the leave heading towards the head. The tiny white specs was the mites indeed.

 

[Organorf]

what type of light? 40cm=16 inches. if i put my plants 16' away from my light, they bleach.

But then the top of my cola's would've felt the burn first and they are fine, it is a bit lower on the cola where the light burn type of effect turn up. 400W DUAL ARC HPS

 

[Organorf]

I had a look again at this chart, and it looks like it might be ph problems. Boron, Copper, Molybdenum, Iron, Calcium and Phosphorus can't get taken up above 6.0ph

She is at 6.2ph

Maybe that is why she was happy at 5.8-5.9-6.0

 

[nonamedman420]

is it strictly hydro, or soil-less?

edit: just rockwool? nothing else? if your girls were happier with a lower ph, try that. every strain is different, and some nutes are buffered and chelated so they can be absorbed in a broader ph range, but i'd still stick to what has worked for you in the past. and in all honesty, i ph to the lower end of the scale and with the right amount of nutes, the will drift up as they drink the nutrients and the ec goes down. this way your girls have the whole range to be able to absorb the nutrients they need, when they need them. when the ph gets toward the high end of the acceptable range, and only then do i adjust the ph downwards, and top up with nutes. this is because, as you pointed out with that chart, there is NO ONE PH that is right for your plants, this is why every nutrient manufacturer lists an ideal ph range, not one target ph. plants are healthier with a slow and steady ph drift over the ideal ph range. but if your ppm's are higher than the plant needs, the ph will drift down so it's better to feed a little lighter than heavier, they will thank you and be easier to read if you plan your nutrient regimen to fit the growth rate and stage of the plant, and the amount of light you are giving them. obviously more light requireds more nutrients than low light level grown plants. generally the ec nutrient manufacturers recommend are for healthy plants, with a robust root system, ample foliage, and high light levels. this is why almost everyone recommends using 1/4 - 1/2 strength of what the bottle/bag says.

 

[Organorf]

Than

is it strictly hydro, or soil-less?

edit: just rockwool? nothing else? if your girls were happier with a lower ph, try that. every strain is different, and some nutes are buffered and chelated so they can be absorbed in a broader ph range, but i'd still stick to what has worked for you in the past. and in all honesty, i ph to the lower end of the scale and with the right amount of nutes, the will drift up as they drink the nutrients and the ec goes down. this way your girls have the whole range to be able to absorb the nutrients they need, when they need them. when the ph gets toward the high end of the acceptable range, and only then do i adjust the ph downwards, and top up with nutes. this is because, as you pointed out with that chart, there is NO ONE PH that is right for your plants, this is why every nutrient manufacturer lists an ideal ph range, not one target ph. plants are healthier with a slow and steady ph drift over the ideal ph range. but if your ppm's are higher than the plant needs, the ph will drift down so it's better to feed a little lighter than heavier, they will thank you and be easier to read if you plan your nutrient regimen to fit the growth rate and stage of the plant.

Thanks for your reply!! Good info!
I will flush them tonight and lower the ph to 5.8 and keep what you said in mind. Will let you know how it goes.

 

[nonamedman420]

Than


Thanks for your reply!! Good info!
I will flush them tonight and lower the ph to 5.8 and keep what you said in mind. Will let you know how it goes.

really hope i could help you. i wish you the best of luck, and as always, don't be afraid to get a 2nd, or 3rd, or 4th opinion. everyone has a different way of doing things, i don't think there is 1 right way, just maybe some ways work a little better than others, for their style of grow.