Quality in Flowering, 3000k or 3500k?

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
looks like a pretty killer set up. how do you have everything set up remotely like that?

i bought the hlg-600h-24b driver and i'd like to figure out how to dim it from a remote or my phone

right now the thought i have in my head for this light is to get 1/8 inch sheet of aluminum and mount all of these strips on it, then in the 4 corners and dead center of the aluminum sheet i'd put 8 different colored cree diodes, the smaller ones, in series so they'd be splitting up the 24v between them, and i'd work the samsung f series strips around them. i like the idea of how you're cooling your fixture. i think i might try to do something with the pipe like you did. maybe i'll do something like that and use 3/4 EMT and bend 90's to go around the edge of the fixture frame with holes cut out of the pipe facing down on the aluminum. what kind of fan are you using to fit into the end of the tubing?
That makes 2 geniuses so far today...
 

Frank Nitty

Well-Known Member
lol, i dont understand
I usually find 5 to 6 geniuses on here a day... I try to keep up with the things you all are doing and are talking about, but then the Einstein thing starts to kick in and Im a stranger in a strange land... I think thats an Iron Maiden song... Anyway, you guys have a lot of knowledge about this stuff and to me that makes you all geniuses... Mad props to you all from Frank Nitty!!!
 
Lol thanks brother, I’m no genius but I am an electrician so I do understand electricity... other than that the lm/w and PPFD ratios a lot of people on here helped me understand which I’m thankful for.
If there’s anything that I might be able to help you with let me know I’ll do my best to try.

I usually find 5 to 6 geniuses on here a day... I try to keep up with the things you all are doing and are talking about, but then the Einstein thing starts to kick in and Im a stranger in a strange land... I think thats an Iron Maiden song... Anyway, you guys have a lot of knowledge about this stuff and to me that makes you all geniuses... Mad props to you all from Frank Nitty!!!
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
nice work widow!

are the slotted extrusions open at both ends or is ne end sealed with the slots acting intentionally as vents?
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
nice work widow!

are the slotted extrusions open at both ends or is ne end sealed with the slots acting intentionally as vents?
They are open on both ends. Except one end I put I think they were 42mm fans. Set inside the 2x2. To blow through it. First I just cut 3 of the 4 sides. With just a fan blowing ontop of them. But they just seemed a tad hot. So I bought the comp fans from amazon. Each one is like 42mm x 42mm and push like 25cfm but there' one per tube so it blows enough to keep them cool. And the slots help for the hot air to raise out of the slots.
 

CobKits

Well-Known Member
sounds like you could do a lot of experimentation like cap one end and blow air in, cap one end and suck air thru with fan

probably wont make a ton of difference as conductive as aluminum is its all one big heatsink any airflow is good airflow!
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
looks like a pretty killer set up. how do you have everything set up remotely like that?

i bought the hlg-600h-24b driver and i'd like to figure out how to dim it from a remote or my phone

right now the thought i have in my head for this light is to get 1/8 inch sheet of aluminum and mount all of these strips on it, then in the 4 corners and dead center of the aluminum sheet i'd put 8 different colored cree diodes, the smaller ones, in series so they'd be splitting up the 24v between them, and i'd work the samsung f series strips around them. i like the idea of how you're cooling your fixture. i think i might try to do something with the pipe like you did. maybe i'll do something like that and use 3/4 EMT and bend 90's to go around the edge of the fixture frame with holes cut out of the pipe facing down on the aluminum. what kind of fan are you using to fit into the end of the tubing?

Do you plan to run the strips and the "colored" cree strings together on the same 24v driver(HLG-600)?
If so, make sure that the "colored strings" have exactly the same vf / resistance as the F-strips, otherwise you get uneven illumination with the risk of thermal runaways. Maybe you need additional resistors to even out the difference.

You could work around this problem by switching to parallel strings out of 1 F-strip with 5x deepred + 1x far-red in series and using an HLG-600H-36A instead. All parallel strings would have the same vf and you will save tedious tests and calculations.
The same works with an F strip plus a 30v COB (eg.Vero18b) in series and a HLG-600H-54A.

Can anyone send me any links to forums that talk about wireless dimming and timing of growlights?
PWM dimming in growlights can be realized by so called aquarium or reef controllers. There are several out there, stevesleds sell the HurricaneX controller, rapidleds sell the Bluefish and the Storm/StrormX controller.
They are based on Arduino or Rasp.Pi boards but you need a small 5v pwm to 0-10v extension card to control Meanwell HLG series drivers because they need 10v pwm or 0-10v for dimming.
You could even do your own, but it's a PITA to find all the code you need. Everything is fragmented in many forums and much is already outdated.
You can get a controller+extension card for ~$100, the better ones, like the Bluefish(10v pwm already integrated) cost around 200.

https://www.rapidled.com/bluefish-led-controller/
http://www.rapidled.com/storm-sunrise-sunset/
http://www.rapidled.com/10v-analog-converter-for-coralux-storm-controller/

http://www.stevesleds.com/HurricaneX-LED-Controller_p_237.html

Pacificlightconcepts has also a zigbee compatible 10v pwm controller+hub for ~29+35$. Zigbee compatible means it can be also controled by alexa, philips hue or so. Also app control should be possible but I don't know much about this Amelech controller and which app they need. But 64$ is a really low price and you can easily control multiple controllers through the same hub and these hub has it's own UI to set up the lights.

http://www.pacificlightconcepts.com/product-category/diy/wireless-control/
 
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Do you plan to run the strips and the "colored" cree strings together on the same 24v driver(HLG-600)?
If so, make sure that the "colored strings" have exactly the same vf / resistance as the F-strips, otherwise you get uneven illumination with the risk of thermal runaways. Maybe you need additional resistors to even out the difference.

You could work around this problem by switching to parallel strings out of 1 F-strip with 5x deepred + 1x far-red in series and using an HLG-600H-36A instead. All parallel strings would have the same vf and you will save tedious tests and calculations.
The same works with an F strip plus a 30v COB (eg.Vero18b) in series and a HLG-600H-54A.



PWM dimming in growlights can be realized by so called aquarium or reef controllers. There are several out there, stevesleds sell the HurricaneX controller, rapidleds sell the Bluefish and the Storm/StrormX controller.
They are based on Arduino or Rasp.Pi boards but you need a small 5v pwm to 0-10v extension card to control Meanwell HLG series drivers because they need 10v pwm or 0-10v for dimming.
You could even do your own, but it's a PITA to find all the code you need. Everything is fragmented in many forums and much is already outdated.
You can get a controller+extension card for ~$100, the better ones, like the Bluefish(10v pwm already integrated) cost around 200.

https://www.rapidled.com/bluefish-led-controller/
http://www.rapidled.com/storm-sunrise-sunset/
http://www.rapidled.com/10v-analog-converter-for-coralux-storm-controller/

http://www.stevesleds.com/HurricaneX-LED-Controller_p_237.html

Pacificlightconcepts has also a zigbee compatible 10v pwm controller+hub for ~29+35$. Zigbee compatible means it can be also controled by alexa, philips hue or so. Also app control should be possible but I don't know much about this Amelech controller and which app they need. But 64$ is a really low price and you can easily control multiple controllers through the same hub and these hub has it's own UI to set up the lights.

http://www.pacificlightconcepts.com/product-category/diy/wireless-control/


Thanks for that info, what if I were to use the hlg-480-24b for the Samsung strips in parallel, and then separate drivers for the reds, far reds, and blues? From my understanding, which idk if I’m right, but in order to be on a separate channel for those controllers you need a separate driver for each channel?
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Thanks for that info, what if I were to use the hlg-480-24b for the Samsung strips in parallel, and then separate drivers for the reds, far reds, and blues? From my understanding, which idk if I’m right, but in order to be on a separate channel for those controllers you need a separate driver for each channel?
I believe your right. Unless they make something to switch off the DC voltage before the leds/cobs/strips/whatever. You could use the same driver. But if i was you. I'd use separate drivers. That way you can upgrade or work it different if you wanna change up setup as you go.
 
The only videos I’m really finding with dimming are using these ldd drivers, but this is kinda new to me since everything I’ve looked at is the hlg series, and on rapidled it says those lighting controllers work only with with the ldd drivers, is this true?





I believe your right. Unless they make something to switch off the DC voltage before the leds/cobs/strips/whatever. You could use the same driver. But if i was you. I'd use separate drivers. That way you can upgrade or work it different if you wanna change up setup as you go.
 

BMWEATER

Well-Known Member
Do you plan to run the strips and the "colored" cree strings together on the same 24v driver(HLG-600)?
If so, make sure that the "colored strings" have exactly the same vf / resistance as the F-strips, otherwise you get uneven illumination with the risk of thermal runaways. Maybe you need additional resistors to even out the difference.

You could work around this problem by switching to parallel strings out of 1 F-strip with 5x deepred + 1x far-red in series and using an HLG-600H-36A instead. All parallel strings would have the same vf and you will save tedious tests and calculations.
The same works with an F strip plus a 30v COB (eg.Vero18b) in series and a HLG-600H-54A.



PWM dimming in growlights can be realized by so called aquarium or reef controllers. There are several out there, stevesleds sell the HurricaneX controller, rapidleds sell the Bluefish and the Storm/StrormX controller.
They are based on Arduino or Rasp.Pi boards but you need a small 5v pwm to 0-10v extension card to control Meanwell HLG series drivers because they need 10v pwm or 0-10v for dimming.
You could even do your own, but it's a PITA to find all the code you need. Everything is fragmented in many forums and much is already outdated.
You can get a controller+extension card for ~$100, the better ones, like the Bluefish(10v pwm already integrated) cost around 200.

https://www.rapidled.com/bluefish-led-controller/
http://www.rapidled.com/storm-sunrise-sunset/
http://www.rapidled.com/10v-analog-converter-for-coralux-storm-controller/

http://www.stevesleds.com/HurricaneX-LED-Controller_p_237.html

Pacificlightconcepts has also a zigbee compatible 10v pwm controller+hub for ~29+35$. Zigbee compatible means it can be also controled by alexa, philips hue or so. Also app control should be possible but I don't know much about this Amelech controller and which app they need. But 64$ is a really low price and you can easily control multiple controllers through the same hub and these hub has it's own UI to set up the lights.

http://www.pacificlightconcepts.com/product-category/diy/wireless-control/

Amazing post! Thank you for the Links I needed this information as well for my quantum board I’m building
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
The only videos I’m really finding with dimming are using these ldd drivers, but this is kinda new to me since everything I’ve looked at is the hlg series, and on rapidled it says those lighting controllers work only with with the ldd drivers, is this true?
You're wanting to do wireless dimming?
 

whytewidow

Well-Known Member
Yes and timing
The timing I can help you with. Just buy a sonoff or any type of wireless switch. Several different brands. With each their own pros and cons. I use sonoffs. I love them. But as far as dimming not sure about wireless unless you had some type of wireless pot inline between the driver and start of your LEDs. What are the reasoning your wanting to dim? Are you wanting to dim each channel separately or all together?
 
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