KonopCh
Well-Known Member
Yes, instead of 10x screws. I have some thermal glue which I used to glue far red diodes, from ebay. I hope it will hold that frame.
Thanks for info!
Last edited:
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Thanks for info!
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
It will not! That's not the glue he talking about. Why not drill a few holes? You could use selftapping screws to avoid threading. Works pretty well and the screws are widely available, they are for instance used in the bodywork area.
Try e3ay or am4zon they are as cheap as any other typ of screws. I've used a lot of them for my COB lights.
http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=screws+self+tapping&tag=googhydr-20&index=aps&hvadid=176369511798&hvpos=1t1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16085456919026324318&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=b&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003503&hvtargid=kwd-1229752818&ref=pd_sl_3ac11k3rfe_b
KonopCh
Well-Known Member
What about double thermal tape, the blue one from ebay?
Aolelon
Well-Known Member
Sorry I thought you were talking about an industrial glue, not thermal glue
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Nope! Not for such a metal frame. It will weigh at least 5kg, with driver on the backside even a bit more. Where is the issue with drilling a few holes?
The cheapest battery drill would do that in minutes and you could use the lamp immediately. A good 2 component acrylic glue needs at least a few hours to dry and harden out and you must always be afraid that everything crashes down the whole time.
I can't understand why one wants to try such a kamikaze trail?
Ever heard of Murphy's Law?
What can go wrong, will go wrong ...!!!
Do yourself a favor and use a durable methode...
business closed...…..
KonopCh
Well-Known Member
Yea, I know about mister Murphy.
Point is, last time I broke 3-5 drills when I wanted to drill holes into that heatsink. Yep, I found them around the house, they're all from 1€ store I think now.
I will hang light with L channels, so U channels will basically just hang there on L's. So I don't need something strong.
And it will look more sexy.
I tried, LOL... in worst case I will drill those holes, no problem with that.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Drill and tapping small holes in heatsinks can become a real pita without a drill press but that's not comparable with 2mm thick channels. For deeper holes in heatsinks, even slight tilting will cause the drill to break off. That does not happen with 2mm thin sheet metal.
jarjarbinks1992
Member
Pretty nooby here but would this be a complete waste of $$ ?
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/feit-led-red-spectrum-plant-grow-light-2-ft-0528588p.html#srp
http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/feit-led-red-spectrum-plant-grow-light-2-ft-0528588p.html#srp
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Yes, indeed! That's outdated crap!
Better look for some Samsung F-Series or Bridgelux EB-Series, gen.2 strips, digikey.com should have them in stock!
For more info's and wiring examples visit LEDgardeners website. Lot's of wiring examples and a calculator tool to plan your new system. These strips are currently the best price/performance wise, up-to 2,5μMol/j is easily to archive.
Check out my 400w light in my signature to get an idea how a strip based light could look like.
jarjarbinks1992
Member
Thank you! lol been on the site how many of them do you think i'd need for 4 plants (the legal amount).
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
It depends not on number of plants, it depends on how big your area is and if it's an open space or a closed tent.
Rule of thumb is 30-35w/sft., with strips it will give you around 750-850μMol/s/m² to play with (tent).
For a 4' x 4' it would be 480-560w and for a 4'x 2' it would be 240-280w. Without reflective walls I would add another 30 or 60w because there will be more light loss.
jaggwaa
Well-Known Member
I have one question. This thread have a lot of information. Thank you for that
Now question is
Running cree CXB3590 at half power will give u 50w of light. This is DC watts from led light. Now from the wall u will be using half of that. for example, i have a led driver, which is taking 30watts from wall, and it runs my led at 60watt. Which one i would consider?
I mean which is the i should count, wall watts which are 30 watts or led watts which are 60watts?
should i call it 60 watt setup or 30 watt setup? if u call it 30 watt setup , on what basis, the light emitted is 60 watts, if i attach a power meter with the led its shows exactly 60 watts at 36vDC, while from the wall iam just using 30 watts.
Now before you say its a 30 watt setup, kindly explain why?
When i asked CREE, they said its 60 watt of light not 30. Reason is because AC wattage is not same as DC wattage. and DC wattage changes with the voltage range. AC wattage is less, because we are using 220volts, while DC wattage is more because we are using on 36volts. How do u see it
Now question is
Running cree CXB3590 at half power will give u 50w of light. This is DC watts from led light. Now from the wall u will be using half of that. for example, i have a led driver, which is taking 30watts from wall, and it runs my led at 60watt. Which one i would consider?
I mean which is the i should count, wall watts which are 30 watts or led watts which are 60watts?
should i call it 60 watt setup or 30 watt setup? if u call it 30 watt setup , on what basis, the light emitted is 60 watts, if i attach a power meter with the led its shows exactly 60 watts at 36vDC, while from the wall iam just using 30 watts.
Now before you say its a 30 watt setup, kindly explain why?
When i asked CREE, they said its 60 watt of light not 30. Reason is because AC wattage is not same as DC wattage. and DC wattage changes with the voltage range. AC wattage is less, because we are using 220volts, while DC wattage is more because we are using on 36volts. How do u see it
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
At first, there is nothing like LED watt and true watt..! Watt's are Watt's!
A CXB 3590 needs ~1,4A to run with ~50w net., the driver converts AC to DC, therefor he needs ~5-10% energy depending on driver effiency(Meanwells HLG-series drivers are between 89 and 95% eff.).
Lets take 10% to keep it simple, means he need ~5w, so it would be 55w at the wall.
COB is running at 50w and the driver need additional 5w.
These 1000w LED power but only 300w at the wall claims are complete nonsense, "chinese marketing BS".
A 3w LED can handle up to 1000mA, but when driven at 350mA it produce only ~1w and and 700mA ~2w.
100pcs 3w diodes running at 600mA is not a 300w Lamp, is is 180w net, 200w at the wall so a 200w light.
A Citizen CLU1825 can handle up to 250w, but if you run the chip at only 1A you run it at ~50w, use 2Amps and you get ~105w. The lower the current flowing thru the diodes the more efficient it works.
So in the end it depends only on current flowing thru the COB/diodes.
If you use a wall watt meter it shows you true wall watts. If you see 55w on the kill-a-watt and the driver effiency is 90% the COB get's 50w. You could use a DC A/V-meter in one row with the COB's connected to the dc side of the driver to see LED watts and a wall watt meter to measure wall watt(incl. driver loss). The differens depends only on driver effiency.
4 COB's at 1,4A would need ~140v(4x ~35v), x 1,4A = 196w net. The DC A/V meter would show you this values. A HLG-185H-C1400 is 94% efficient, so 196w : 0,94%= 204,1667w at the wall. The wall watt meter would show this value.
Forget the marketing blah-blah, it's useless bullshit!
Reputable LED manufacturer like HLG, Timber or ChillLED will only mention the true power, not the theoretically possible power.
A CXB 3590 needs ~1,4A to run with ~50w net., the driver converts AC to DC, therefor he needs ~5-10% energy depending on driver effiency(Meanwells HLG-series drivers are between 89 and 95% eff.).
Lets take 10% to keep it simple, means he need ~5w, so it would be 55w at the wall.
COB is running at 50w and the driver need additional 5w.
These 1000w LED power but only 300w at the wall claims are complete nonsense, "chinese marketing BS".
A 3w LED can handle up to 1000mA, but when driven at 350mA it produce only ~1w and and 700mA ~2w.
100pcs 3w diodes running at 600mA is not a 300w Lamp, is is 180w net, 200w at the wall so a 200w light.
A Citizen CLU1825 can handle up to 250w, but if you run the chip at only 1A you run it at ~50w, use 2Amps and you get ~105w. The lower the current flowing thru the diodes the more efficient it works.
So in the end it depends only on current flowing thru the COB/diodes.
If you use a wall watt meter it shows you true wall watts. If you see 55w on the kill-a-watt and the driver effiency is 90% the COB get's 50w. You could use a DC A/V-meter in one row with the COB's connected to the dc side of the driver to see LED watts and a wall watt meter to measure wall watt(incl. driver loss). The differens depends only on driver effiency.
4 COB's at 1,4A would need ~140v(4x ~35v), x 1,4A = 196w net. The DC A/V meter would show you this values. A HLG-185H-C1400 is 94% efficient, so 196w : 0,94%= 204,1667w at the wall. The wall watt meter would show this value.
Forget the marketing blah-blah, it's useless bullshit!
Reputable LED manufacturer like HLG, Timber or ChillLED will only mention the true power, not the theoretically possible power.
jaggwaa
Well-Known Member
Thats the thing, 50w at 36volts is different then 50 watts at 220volts.
Now lets talk about my setup, though i will make a separate thread on my build, but for now,
i have cxa2540 in my setup, full power of that cob is 85watts @ 2100ma
The drivers iam using are 1800ma @ 30-40v. Now here is whats happening. Wall meter is showing 30 or 32 watts. While the meter i attached after driver, before led, is showing 60W... let me find the image
Now lets talk about my setup, though i will make a separate thread on my build, but for now,
i have cxa2540 in my setup, full power of that cob is 85watts @ 2100ma
The drivers iam using are 1800ma @ 30-40v. Now here is whats happening. Wall meter is showing 30 or 32 watts. While the meter i attached after driver, before led, is showing 60W... let me find the image
jaggwaa
Well-Known Member
So here is the multimeter attached. Though these meters are Chinese, so does the iphones
but on a serious note, they are extremely accurate. I have cross tested them with several other meters. Pic 1 is no load at all, u can see it shows floating voltage as 41.98 volts and current is 0 amps.
Second pic, two led s attached together in parallel. Now u see voltage is 35.77, and amps are 1.79. Now look at the watts, both leds are consuming 64watts combined. Now the third pic, i have attaced 4 leds in parallel, But the meter is attached to one led, just to see how much each is getting, u can see each cob is running at 430ma @ 32.94 volts and 14.1 watts. Trust me before doing that i was also under the impression that ac wat or dc wat at any voltage is same, but its not. Cree's answer makes sense. Like u mentioned meanwell drivers, u see how when u increase the volts, the current which is miliamps, reduces, like if your are using cobs in series, meanwell drivers go upto 600w i gues but iam sure you will not find 600w driver with 3000ma or even 2000ma, higher voltage drivers are usually in range of 300ma or 400 or 750ma like that. I wanted to write my own thread but this one thing has confused me a lot. i think i we convert the dc 64wats at 1800ma @36 volts dc to ac220 volts, iam sure it will come out similar,
but on a serious note, they are extremely accurate. I have cross tested them with several other meters. Pic 1 is no load at all, u can see it shows floating voltage as 41.98 volts and current is 0 amps.Second pic, two led s attached together in parallel. Now u see voltage is 35.77, and amps are 1.79. Now look at the watts, both leds are consuming 64watts combined. Now the third pic, i have attaced 4 leds in parallel, But the meter is attached to one led, just to see how much each is getting, u can see each cob is running at 430ma @ 32.94 volts and 14.1 watts. Trust me before doing that i was also under the impression that ac wat or dc wat at any voltage is same, but its not. Cree's answer makes sense. Like u mentioned meanwell drivers, u see how when u increase the volts, the current which is miliamps, reduces, like if your are using cobs in series, meanwell drivers go upto 600w i gues but iam sure you will not find 600w driver with 3000ma or even 2000ma, higher voltage drivers are usually in range of 300ma or 400 or 750ma like that. I wanted to write my own thread but this one thing has confused me a lot. i think i we convert the dc 64wats at 1800ma @36 volts dc to ac220 volts, iam sure it will come out similar,
Attachments
jaggwaa
Well-Known Member
jaggwaa
Well-Known Member
Its a cheap Chinese driver but its doing its job very good, i took them to a electric shop in my neighborhood. They had different meter to test and they all tested same. The electrician there also told me same thing about 36 v dc and 220 v ac stuff. Also 64 watt is two cxa2540 connected in parallel. and its actually 1.79ma on the meter, maybe thats why the calculation is off by a couple watts