How would you keeo drivers outside a tent?

Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
You could twist the small wires coming from the two smaller drivers together and push them into one port of the wagos.
Wago's are at least awg16 or 14 and I've done the same with an APC-35-700 and a small 12v driver for the fans. You could still add an on/off switch to each driver.
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
These AC input sockets are available in different versions for instance with on/off switch or with additional fuse. Below a few pics from the wiring. I've use Wago's and awg16 wires to splitt the main connection for different drivers and I've used a resetable bimettal switch for security. If the temps inside gets higher as 75°C the main connection will be switched off untill I press the reset button.
When built-in the Wago's are glued to the bottom of the housing and the AC driver wires are going into the N, L and ground Wago's. The bi-metal switch could be glued to one of the drivers or near to them. I'm using cheap thermal glue(1$/5g, ebay), it's easy removable.

All the parts are for cheap from e3ay, 1,70 for the switch, 0,80 for the bi-metal switch, Wago's are also cheap to get and awg16 wire plus heat shrink and a few connectors anyway.
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Why not set the shut off to flips fan circuit?
I have a fan that kicks on when the temp sensor I have under the driver hits 100F.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
="SSGrower, post: 14324374, member: 926731"]Why not set the shut off to flips fan circuit?
I have a fan that kicks on when the temp sensor I have under the driver hits 100F.
Click to expand...

Nice idea! There is still room for improvements. My current light is completely passive, but it is a nice idea to have a small fan on a seperate circuit in case it went too hot inside a closed driver housing with several drivers. At least better as to switch them off and one could still use an additional thermo switch in case the temps increase further. On the other hand, I have never had problems with Meanwell drivers, maybe a little too much safety
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Nice idea! There is still room for improvements. My current light is completely passive, but it is a nice idea to have a small fan on a seperate circuit in case it went too hot inside a closed driver housing with several drivers. At least better as to switch them off and one could still use an additional thermo switch in case the temps increase further. On the other hand, I have never had problems with Meanwell drivers, maybe a little too much safety
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If I remember correctly 120F is design temp for hlg. I run 12v cooling fans so I just pulled another leg off that power supply for it.

Not really a safety thing for me, just insurance for a reliable system.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
SSGrower said:
If I remember correctly 120F is design temp for hlg. I run 12v cooling fans so I just pulled another leg off that power supply for it.

Not really a safety thing for me, just insurance for a reliable system.
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Okay. Thanks for the tip! The best way to do this all is by mounting all drivers to a singular piece of wood. And then have all the connections come to a junction box in front of them that is mounted to the wood as well. Then from there I would just have the two or three connectors.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Should work! Many peeps that use remote drivers have done the same...
Mount the "driver-board" to the wall so that the drivers hung vertically. That improves cooling by a few percent just because of better convection. At least 2 or 3° less as when you lay it down or hang it horizontally.
 
SSGrower

SSGrower

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
Okay. Thanks for the tip! The best way to do this all is by mounting all drivers to a singular piece of wood. And then have all the connections come to a junction box in front of them that is mounted to the wood as well. Then from there I would just have the two or three connectors.
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I would just elevate the drivers so air can flow underneath.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Airwalker16 said:
That driver board gives me a boner.

What is that SE600-12? That's mean well Huh? And of course you have plugs. But we're talking about the DC side of the driver where red and black go to the LEDs.

@nxsov180db
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You can see the XT60 connectors below the drivers? He wants to have the connections outside of the tent so he needs no waterproof connectors. And the XT60 can handle a lot current and have low resistance, I believe 0,001Ω, so almost a loss less connection.
 
Airwalker16

Airwalker16

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
You can see the XT60 connectors below the drivers? He wants to have the connections outside of the tent so he needs no waterproof connectors. And the XT60 can handle a lot current and have low resistance, I believe 0,001Ω, so almost a loss less connection.
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I wanna use those waterproof connectors though. They're just so convenient how they screw together snug.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yea, I would also use the waterproof ones when the connection is inside the tent. Nothing wrong with these connctors only make sure to use heatshrink to cover the solder joints, with up to 6 pins It's going to be pretty tight and you don't want to get a short inside the connectors. So proper insulation is a must!
 
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