SexForBreakfast
Active Member
Arrow has them at $31.00 but out of stock... I'm still looking lol
I need some help, COBs vs Boards etc...
- Thread starter SexForBreakfast
- Start date
SexForBreakfast
Active Member
What would be regular? I'm aiming for 35w/sq ft should I dial it back to 30?
Aolelon
Well-Known Member
You will have the ability to dim with that driver, I'd rather have more light and not need it, than not enough light.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
Could not agree more.
SexForBreakfast
Active Member
I'm not really trying to have some crazy setup I estimated my wattage based on the vero29's I was gonna run lol
Is 30w/sqft a little more standard? I can add more easily in the future or turn this into a veg by ordering a couple 5k strips. One of the reasons I love this stuff so much
Aolelon
Well-Known Member
35w is about right there. Most people suggest between 30-40w of quality LEDs.
SexForBreakfast
Active Member
Cool man thanks, I got all worried about needing co2 for a sec lol. I knew they were good but did not think that good!
By the way arrow has a 8 week lead time for the strips but they're about $20 cheaper per strip
SexForBreakfast
Active Member
Is anyone familiar with parts stock(com) I can't post links lol. They have some good deals if it's a reliable place
Aolelon
Well-Known Member
More than likely a scam. There are a lot of websites that have good prices, that are a front. Just some Chinese guy trying to get you to send him money, and never respond.
SexForBreakfast
Active Member
Yeah basically what I'm assuming too.
SexForBreakfast
Active Member
So here's another potential option ( since everyone keeps telling me and I keep reading the bridgeluxs don't need heatsinks)
Doing 20 of the 40" strips @.7a would bring me just shy of 550 watts.
If I went this route if I'm not mistaken I'd use the hlg 600h 42 rated for 14.3 amps?
The eb2's are 39v@700ma so 27.3 watts per strip and should be using 14amps? Have I graduated driver university or do I need to get back on the short bus? Lol
Doing 20 of the 40" strips @.7a would bring me just shy of 550 watts.
If I went this route if I'm not mistaken I'd use the hlg 600h 42 rated for 14.3 amps?
The eb2's are 39v@700ma so 27.3 watts per strip and should be using 14amps? Have I graduated driver university or do I need to get back on the short bus? Lol
nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
Yes that is correct.
Airwalker16
Well-Known Member
You'll receive your diploma in the mail in 4-6 weeks.
SexForBreakfast
Active Member
I'm a big kid now! (Pullsups commercials for baby diapers) haha
It's a matter of opinion. My guess is less experienced growers might be better off with 30 vs 35 or 40, strips have high efficacy and efficiency! Get drivers with type A or B dimming.
Nope, more strips would be less power per strip and more efficient.
You don't have to run them at .7A, (700ma). They are tested at 700ma and 1400ma is max. They definitely don't need sinks at 700ma.
For that build, I'd probably suspend the strips across a perimeter frame made from aluminum angle, with a couple additional angles running across to keep the strips from drooping in the middle. It would be so light, it might just levitate from the thrust of all those little photon engines.
For drivers I'd go with the 480w, two 240w, or the 600w, and A or B dimming option.
Two drivers, or even two separate lights gives some flexibility. For example, just one would be plenty for seedlings through early veg.
Another idea would be alternating 3000k and 4000k strips, each color on its own driver. Use the 4000k for veg and both for flower.
Maybe put a 320w driver on the 3000k for flowering. Additional strips can always be added, maybe some side lighting. I have the 560mm, hanging in the corners by the wires.
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wietefras
Well-Known Member
Why do people still work with W/sqft? Nowadays we have efficiencies going from HPS in a cheapo hood of 1.3umol/s/W all the way up to efficient led strips at 2.5umol/s/W (light on the plants minus reflector and wall losses).
So 30W/sqft could give you 420umol/s/m2 all the way up to 800umol/s/m2. A huge difference for the plants.
Why not aim for a certain light intensity in umol/s/m2 to begin with (say 800umol/s/m2 average) and divide that by the efficiency of the light and multiply by the surface area in m2? Or if you must work with sqft then aim for 75umol/s/sqft instead of 800umol/s/m2.
So 30W/sqft could give you 420umol/s/m2 all the way up to 800umol/s/m2. A huge difference for the plants.
Why not aim for a certain light intensity in umol/s/m2 to begin with (say 800umol/s/m2 average) and divide that by the efficiency of the light and multiply by the surface area in m2? Or if you must work with sqft then aim for 75umol/s/sqft instead of 800umol/s/m2.
Aolelon
Well-Known Member
Because someone who doesnt know drivers, im assuming isnt going to know about umol/s/m2. It's really not a big difference as long as you're using quality LEDs. They are all around the same anyway.
Samsung Strips and boards are going to give you about the same output at 35wsq/ft. Regardless of what you choose, unless you're using a bunch of underpowered strips/ boards.
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Aolelon
Well-Known Member
I understand that, but I was showing how to actually choose a driver himself. Instead of having to ask.
So if he was starting from scratch, the. Yes he would have to do that.
SexForBreakfast
Active Member
It's a matter of opinion. My guess is less experienced growers might be better off with 30 vs 35 or 40, strips have high efficacy and efficiency! Get drivers with type A or B dimming.
Nope, more strips would be less power per strip and more efficient.
You don't have to run them at .7A, (700ma). They are tested at 700ma and 1400ma is max. They definitely don't need sinks at 700ma.
For that build, I'd probably suspend the strips across a perimeter frame made from aluminum angle, with a couple additional angles running across to keep the strips from drooping in the middle. It would be so light, it might just levitate from the thrust of all those little photon engines.
For drivers I'd go with the 480w, two 240w, or the 600w, and A or B dimming option.
Two drivers, or even two separate lights gives some flexibility. For example, just one would be plenty for seedlings through early veg.
Another idea would be alternating 3000k and 4000k strips, each color on its own driver. Use the 4000k for veg and both for flower.
Maybe put a 320w driver on the 3000k for flowering. Additional strips can always be added, maybe some side lighting. I have the 560mm, hanging in the corners by the wires.
Honestly running them at 700ma seems cheap as hell compared to running them harder and needing a heat sink or c channel or whatever I’d choose lol, but I could run them a little bit harder and get a square piece of 3/8th” alum 40”x40x and thermal paste and drill them on the board.
I was actually about to ask about that (if bracing was needed with the 40” strips of if they would hold their own weight) some cross braces seem easy enough though
SexForBreakfast
Active Member
Dude I’m mid way through flower in my second ever grow with a single 315w cmh, i posted the thread for help thank you though maybe I’ll look that up soon but for now I’m still learning