nfhiggs
Well-Known Member
They are the same boards, only difference is what wattage you run them at. The V2 are more efficient than the V1's.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
HGL260 kit is complete, you only need to stick the parts together, same like with the other kits. They even incl. hangers..
Takes 5mins ..
Each 260 kit would cover a 2x 4' area pretty well. These kits are based on the same boards, the difference between HLG550 and 600 is only another driver. The 260 kit use HLG-240's(designed for a 2x 4'.), the 550 has an HLG-480(for a 4x 4') and the 600 has an HLG-600 driver(for a 5x 5' area).
With two 260's you have slightly more power as with one HLG550(up-to 560w at the wall), but a bit less as with the 600. IMO, perfect for a 4x 4' area!
Only make sure you take the new V2 boards they are at least 5% better as the first gen. boards and cost exact the same.
And if you later want to build a frame to distribute the light more evenly, you only need to splitt the slate2 into 2 slate1's.
Aluminum is really easy to work with, simply cut it with a jigsaw but use a wide metal saw blade for straight cuts and set the cutting angle to 2 or 3, so the saw goes faster through the material.
With a parallel stop(I hope that makes sense), you can easily get a straight cut.
But be warned! Cutting aluminum will be loud, ... really loud!
Every neighbor within a 50-100yd circle will hear you workin'..
I always wear an in-ear headset when sawing aluminum to avoid blowing out my eardrums.., lol!
Randodred
Active Member
I'm sure you can request it to them through email.. may cost a little extra..
Randodred
Active Member
Yes I'm going with the 260 V2 kits.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Good decision, mate! You'll never look back...
WeedSexWeightsShakes
Well-Known Member
IMO make sure you get the xl ones
wietefras
Well-Known Member
That is simply not true. A QB is (as nfhiggs already said) in essence a large COB running at 100W or more. A big regular COB can do the same. If you get Citizen 1825's you can also use 4 of them and hang them at 18" to get the same uniformity.
The benefit with COBs is that they are cheap enough to spread 9 or 16 over the area and have a much better light distribution resulting in much less height needed. Which will save you a lot on wall losses. 10" to 12" for 9 COBs and 8" to 9" for 16 COBs. With in the end somewhere between 10% and 20% light extra on the plants.
Led strips work even better in that sense.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
IMO make sure you get the xl ones
The XL ones are the ones with CRI80/90 mix and Nichia diodes, right?
I like that spectrum mix too but V2 should be better in terms of effiency. The Nichia's are really good but just not as good as the latest top bin LM301b. It they would have Nichia's 220lm/w 757v2, yes, but it's another diode. So as long as the XL's get's no update, the V2 boards should be the better ones.
WeedSexWeightsShakes
Well-Known Member
XL is the longer heatsink. Still uses the v2 boards.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Hmm!
I don't think 4 bare 120w COB's at 18" would look like the PAR map above from 4 boards with 1 ft spacings.(same windmill layout like your strip build) Unfortunately I have no simulator but I'm pretty sure especially on the sides and corners the values would be lower with higher readings in the center in the same time.
Is it a lot of effort to test this in your simulator?
You know, I like both COB's and mid-power products like strips and boards. I would not use boards myself unless I had a lot of them and could literally cover the whole ceiling with low driven boards, lol. So I avoid them for the exact same reason like you.
I only say, the PAR map @welight got from 4 of his boards is really good and you will lrobably need much more COB's to get something similar. At 120w per COB and 18" I would expect a higher hotspot directly under each COB and lower values on the periphery because the COB's have less LES and act like a point source.
Average readings would be identical, no question, they are both in the same range, but distribution, especially at a short distance, is better with boards. The also produce a center hotspot but not in the same way like one single COB.
With 4 COB's compared to one board there is for sure no difference. Cobkits tested 4 or 5 citi1212's against a single QBv1 and got even better results from COB's! A single 1825 maybe has similar average readings at 18" but for sure not the same uniformity.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Ah, okay! There are so many I slowly lose the overview, lol!
Then you have better spread and less center hotspot with the XL's. How far apart are the boards on the XL's?
WeedSexWeightsShakes
Well-Known Member
You could fit another board between the space. I don’t remember how long the boards are. It’s the same heatsink they use for their 320w kits with the 288 or 304 boards, just without the 3rd board.
wietefras
Well-Known Member
18"/ 45cm is hardly a "short distance" though. A COB at 45cm lights up a 155cm circle.
Perhaps I should run it at lower reflectivity (below is at 70%), but COBs at such a big distance really provide quite uniformly spread out light:
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welight
Well-Known Member
Nichia V3 is soon available
Randodred
Active Member
Yes I was thinking the sameIMO make sure you get the xl ones
What wattage ? 4 cobs give you those numbers? Is that a ppfd map ?
welight
Well-Known Member
I would agree that both COBs and boards are effective but for uniformity of PPFD across the canopy, boards are unmatched, of course you can achieve that with COB but you would require an amount that negates the the cost benefit of COB. For us the real benefit is the colour mix we get on SOLSKIN in the single footprint meaning you dont have to supplement with other COBS or boards, so you get uniformity and spectral control, off course you can add boards with different CCT but they are not symmetrical
Cheers
Mark