BuddyColas
Well-Known Member
Nice deep green. No tip burn. Leaves look good. I second Moflow's recommendation to go for 40,000 LUX in flower. *Just my opinion!
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COB GROW how many lumens I go for flower
- Thread starter pollen205
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
These girl looks healthy to me. Nice dark green, no burnings on leaf tips and margins, no signs of deficits, they all looked happy. Probably another 5 or 6 weeks till finish.
Biotabs are not bad and I like bactrex and mycotrex but the stuff is damn expensive, mate! You can get other myco and bacteria products or a combination much cheaper.
Make sure that the substrate does not dry out too much, which would cause damages to the soil flora(bacteria + myco's). And I would also get a bloom fertilizer (¼-½ dosage) to provide sufficient nutrients in the main flower stage (now!). Atami has a good organic fertilizer series.
If you want to stay 100% organic, you should at least use 5gal soil per girl, the more the better (to provide enough nutriens). The more soil is available the more nutriens can bacteria and myco's deliver to the roots. If the soils get too dry the soil flora will die, add fresh bactrex and mycotrex with the next watering then.
The distance to the light seems to be okay! Rather too much distance than too little!
Too much light can quickly be detected by yellow discoloration in the upper area(bleaching), sometimes it shows also up in completely white albino flowers(google bleaching and look at the images).
But usually only with high intensities above 900μMol/s/m², below 800μMol/s/m² you should not see any symtomes. In the most cases bleaching looks like a mg deficit at the beginning.
Apart from the overexposure and the noise, the pictures look okay and the plants look pretty healthy. I see no signs of bleaching or an evidence of a nutrient deficiency. The little one have now switched to the main flower stage, the stretch has stopped and they are concentrating on the formation of new flowers. The nutrient balance is changing, the need for nitrogen is decreasing, the demand for phosphate and, above all, potassium is increasing dramatically.
I would use an additional bloom fertilizer to make sure all they need is available. Start with a 25% dosage(now) and increase slowly to 50% in week 8 then stop adding nutes.
A few tips if you want to stay organic:
• Horsetail extract provides additional silicon that helps strengthens the cell walls and prevent boitritis(bud rod).
• Valerian extract is also useful as it reduces stress and promotes multiplication of the soil flora.
• Molasses provides plenty of potassium and nitrogen and contains lots of sugars/carbohydrates that are great for
activating and nourishing the soil flora.
• CalMag, Atami has a good one (13,90€), Aptus CalMag costs much more. Add 5ml/5l every 2nd watering, start
from veg week 2 and add it at least until end of stretch. From end of stretch I give 2.5ml until just before the end, but
you can stop it completely. It's important that enough of these elements are already stored during the growth stage, as
calcium is not mobile at all and magnesium is transported only slowly within the plant. If they receive too little of these
elements, deficits will appear in the second half of flowering and can not be resolved. Similar to too little nitrogen in
veg ...
Otherwise, I can only say, well done, mate! Everything looks good for now and these girl should finish with a decent yield.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
In the upper post there is a paragraph about bleaching! But there is not much to say. Best is google bleaching and look at the pictures ... It starts with yellowing on the upper leaves followed by slow drying and dying of the leaves.
[QUOTE=" And I would also get a bloom fertilizer (¼-½ dosage) to provide sufficient nutrients in the main flower stage (now!). Atami has a good organic fertilizer series./QUOTE]
Dont have any thing other then biotabs starter kit so can I add some nutes from biotabs for main stage of flower-now ?
Dont have any thing other then biotabs starter kit so can I add some nutes from biotabs for main stage of flower-now ?
wietefras
Well-Known Member
Velleman is a brand that sells OEM china stuff at triple the price you pay for the same items (albeit in a different color housing) directly from China though.
You can estimate the light levels from the datasheet too. If you have 4 Citi 1212 at 50W, according to the specs they would be producing about 440umol/s. If your tent is 60x60 then that is way to much. That would result in about 1220umol/s/m2. Even if you take away 20% in wall losses then you'd still be at around 1000umol/s/m2 average, but much higher in the middle.
125W to 150W would probably be a better match for that size tent and those COBs. Then you can put the lights at 25cm above the plants (limiting wall losses).
Moflow
Well-Known Member
Slight miscalculation......
His light fixture is 60cm x 60cm - 2ft x 2ft.
His tent is 80cm x 80cm ~ 32" × 32"
What do you think the optimum spread of cobs should be for 4 cobs to evenly cover a 80cm x 80cm area?
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
I would use the Biotabs then as recommended. It should at least cover her minimum demands. But I would buy something extra for the next run.
Adjust the COB's only so that each COB hung above a 20x 20cm area. Do not move them closer together, this only creates a center hotspot and you get less light on the sides. Look at the simulation for 4 COB's above, your PAR map should look similar, of course not with the same intensities.
Better would be to veg the babes a bit longer next time(maybe 6 or 8 weeks) to get a big and even canopy. You could use the whole space available and get a much better yield. Meanlining could be used or you simply use a trellis to create a nice and even canopy.
OMG...but on the his box say country production : belgium
and was expensive as shit 60 dollar in store in my conutry in Europe and I buy shit....fuuuuuccckkk
You are offering on 1 cob+1 bjb holder+133mm heatsink module(mx4 thermal interface).
Clu048 1212 is a nominal 36V COB which can operate up to 2.76A max(approximately 100w)
Best efficiency/cost ratio is at 50watt, with an estimated efficiency of 2,2 mmol/watt(hps is 1,3 mmol/watt).You can build your own led fixture with multiple module and Meanwell driver.
Exemple:
200 watt led fixture(215/220 watt at plug)
4 cob module
1 meanwell elg-200h-c1400a
330 eur for an extremely efficient led fixture with estimated 440ppf output and 687ppfd all over an area of 80cm x 80cm
This is from the site of the store that I buy cobs...
So they say perfect for 80x80
And what about umols ?I really dont any thing about them ...just start reading
Where is simulatio for 4 COBs Par ?
Gilligans Island
Well-Known Member
At 22,000 lumens with my led's I get bleaching.
sorry again for quality of the picture... fucking bad mobile phone
so I dont know if you can see but meter gives 25 k on the centar....
so lower down the light ,close cobs each other or dim it more then 200 w...now I run them at 200w
or set it as it is and hope it will be ok like this...
I really put all my money to this for cobs ,tent,biotabs,wall meter,lux meter,ventilation......
and really really want at least 50 g dry indica to help me sleep good...
so please any leatter from you guys means a gold to me
and really thank you all for help...
so I dont know if you can see but meter gives 25 k on the centar....
so lower down the light ,close cobs each other or dim it more then 200 w...now I run them at 200w
or set it as it is and hope it will be ok like this...
I really put all my money to this for cobs ,tent,biotabs,wall meter,lux meter,ventilation......
and really really want at least 50 g dry indica to help me sleep good...
so please any leatter from you guys means a gold to me
and really thank you all for help...
I think that I heard that light bleaching have a thing with spectrum and heat of the lamp not lumens
wietefras
Well-Known Member
Yes it's good for 80x80, but you said you have 60x60 which is almost half the surface of 80x80.
umol/s is the light production from the light. This light gets spread across the plants. If you spread 440umol/s over 0.64m2 (80x80) then you get 690umol/s/m2 (average) and with 0.36m2 (60x60) you end up with 1220umol/s/m2 (average). Minus wall loses (which will be higher in a smaller tent) but you get a lot higher intensity when you put the same amount of light in a much smaller area.
:edit: ah nevermind I see from Moflow now that when you wrote "my frame for grow tent 80x 80 is 60x60 or 24x24 inches..." you meant that the tent is 80x80 and the frame 60x60.
Moflow
Well-Known Member
Just take a deep breath and relax, you're over thinking it. Lol
Put the light at 200 watts and set it about 12" ~ 300mm away.
Keep a check on it on a daily basis.
Keep it simple I say
Moflow
Well-Known Member
Just for curiosity could you place the lux meter about 8" ~ 200mm directly under a cob to see what reading you get? Nothing scientific, I was wondering how high your meter will go!
Moflow
Well-Known Member
Or try lowering the light until you get a 40K reading in the centre, then take readings around the edges of plant.
How many K around the edge of plant are you getting?
55 000 - 60 000 10 cm under one cob...Just for curiosity could you place the lux meter about 8" ~ 200mm directly under a cob to see what reading you get? Nothing scientific, I was wondering how high your meter will go!
Every where around the tent I have higer 2000-3000 then from centar
And I have one problem with pc vent that I buy...
It has 4 green leds on every corner that emitates light...
And i need vent for night time when is main ventilation off...
On the vent there are 4 silver copper wire that go to each led...
So if I cut them can this vent go on fire and will it work?
It has 4 green leds on every corner that emitates light...
And i need vent for night time when is main ventilation off...
On the vent there are 4 silver copper wire that go to each led...
So if I cut them can this vent go on fire and will it work?