COB GROW how many lumens I go for flower

Moflow

Well-Known Member
You'll have to post a pic of this vent/light thingymebob........
Never seen one.
What about covering the leds on it with tape to block light?
 

pollen205

Well-Known Member
I will tape it...

But that pc vent dont help me that much...night humidity is 65%...

So i have 4-6 weeks left ...the plant is fullll of crystals,so if the plant goes to problem because of heat humidity or vent can I make ice hash from that not fully mature plant?
 

Moflow

Well-Known Member
I will tape it...

But that pc vent dont help me that much...night humidity is 65%...

So i have 4-6 weeks left ...the plant is fullll of crystals,so if the plant goes to problem because of heat humidity or vent can I make ice hash from that not fully mature plant?
Surely you can let it go another month or so? You'll be sorry if you don't.

It looks healthy
 

pollen205

Well-Known Member
I will go to maxiumum of the maximum...ice hash is last option
But the problem just keep going...

My room mate agree to let quietline on for time that is done..and hope that I am close
So that is great..but even with vent on and table fan on the humidity is 55 % cobs are on...much much better
And the temp is 27-28
I really dont know what to do to get 40% constatly ...

And on the bottom of smart pots 10 days after I set cobs I see algea...
My runoff is solid clear-brown color
But when i clean floor of the tent on papertowell is green color
I really hope that algea is not on the inside side of smartpot and doesnt effect root system or beneficial bacterias

Thank you guys
@Moflow ;)
 

pollen205

Well-Known Member
If I buy cheap dimmer for house light will it work with quietline 125?
And what is the best solution for venting grow tent- to leave window on the bottom open or close?
 
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Randomblame

Well-Known Member
I will go to maxiumum of the maximum...ice hash is last option
But thm just keep going...

My room mate agree to let quietline on for time that is done..and hope that I am close
So that is great..but even with vent on and table fan on the humidity is 55 % cobs are on...much much better
And the temp is 27-28
I really dont know what to do to get 40% constatly ...

And on the bottom of smart pots 10 days after I set cobs I see algea...
My runoff is solid clear-brown color
But when i clean floor of the tent on papertowell is green color
I really hope that algea is not on the inside side of smartpot and doesnt effect root system or beneficial bacterias

Thank you guys
@Moflow ;)
Why you need 40% constantly. The 55% humidity when lights on is probably the main reason why your plants looks so healthy.
40% at 28°C would cause a high vapor pressure inside the leaves, the plant would transpire much more water, roots takes up more water and nutriens then and you can get issues within a few days. 55-60% when lights on and less than 50% when lights off is much better.
And do not worry because of the greenish coating/algea. Wash it off if it bothers you. The washed out bacteria die when they dry out, which also starts to stink over time.
I would not water to much, with biotabs you want/need no runoff. Each time you see runoff you lose valuable nutes and useful bacteria. I would only rinse the soil when you add new Bactrex and Mycotrex.

You can lower the fixture to increase intensity but do it slow! Maybe 2" every 2 days and watch the plant carefully if you reach the 16-18" mark. The lux-meter seems to be a bit strange. If I had 50klx mesurings in the middle, 30klx was the nastiest number I could measure in the corners. 3000 or 5000lx maybe only below the canopy...
Forget the lux meter for now and pay attention to what the plant tells you. If she gets too much light, you will recognize it within 2-4 days and hang the lamp 2-4" higher again.
Your plant looks good and healthy and your primary goal should be to maintain that state. Increasing the intensity is currently of secondary importance. She grow anyway in a chamber and at the end all the light rays hit the plant at some point and promote photosynthesis. In the end, a healthy plant with 30klx will deliver probably more than a sick plant under 50klx.
 
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pollen205

Well-Known Member
Really really helpfull thank you very very much..

And how often do I add bactrecx and orgatrex...

And thank god the plant dont smell for now only when I put my nose close to buds...
I dont have carbon filter for now
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Really really helpfull thank you very very much..

And how often do I add bactrecx and orgatrex...

And thank god the plant dont smell for now only when I put my nose close to buds...
I dont have carbon filter for now

Oh-oh!
She will start smelling stronger when the trichones gets bigger...., 100%!!!
You should invest in a small 100mm Ø inline fan with build-in carbon filter. PC fans have not enough pressure for effective filtering. Depending on the laws in your country it could be a bad idea to try it without, mate.
I've a 160mm inline fan with 650m³/h filter and it takes hours to remove all the smell that comes from the harvest from the 15m2 room where my 2x 4' tent is!
At least get some OnaBlocks and distribute it in the other rooms and in the hallway! But do not use them in the same room with your plant, OnaBlocks will/can change the taste of the final product and you don't want it to taste like a toilet stone, lol! I have one infront of a small fan in the hallway while harvesting just to be sure there is no smell.

You can also build on yourself, it's pretty easy. But use at least a 20-30w fan or better a centrifugal fan, like mentioned above, 3w PC fans have not enough pressure and you need a few of them.

The one below is build using the most powerful 120mm Scythe fan (6,35w, 2800rpm, +250cbm/h, 2,82mm/h2o pressure), a 10mm layer active carbon CTC70 and a 5mm carbon filter mat (to keep the carbon sticks in place). Pretty sure the whole filter has only 5-10cbm/h or so 'cause the fan has not enough pressure. I've try it for my 3ft² test area and it was not enough!
I will change the Scythe fan against a powerful 35w centrifugal fan(12v/2,93A) to suck enough air thru the filter. Pretty sure this will work much better.
And because it has almost the same dimensions I just have to saw out a side air outlet in the wood frame and close the aluminum plate on the outlet side.
There are lots of different DIY carbon filter how-to's available, for sure also here (somewhere in the DIY area) but also online or on youtube.
Carbon fan, ~5-10cbm_h2.jpg

I would use Bactrex and Orgatrex(btw, it's almost only molasses) like mentioned on the package. I though there where Mycotrex too in the set, isn't it? I would use Mycotrex to innoculate the roots as early as possible. @The Dawg for instance use something similar (he call it pixidust, lol) to innoculate the seeds already during the germination.
Trichoderma and Mycorrizza enter into a sybiotic relationship with the roots and they multiply themself with the root grow. That means it only needs to be used one time.
You can add bacteria more often and molasses(Orgatrex) contains a lot of sugars that nourishes the bacteria and increase their activity.
All this products are a lot cheaper when you not buy them especially made for MJ growing.
TNC MycorrMax and TNC BactorrS13 cost almost the same(17-20 bucks) but you get twice or triple that much(300g). And 1l molasses costs only 3,90. I've found this and other TNC products like TricorrP5 on e3ay.
 

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The Dawg

Well-Known Member
I Use Extreme Gardening Mycorrhiza. I Sprinkle A Little On The Tap. In The 2nd Week Of Veg Or When The Roots Hit The Res I Add 1/4 Teaspoon Of Mycorrhiza Per Gallon Once A Week For 3 Weeks :hump:
 
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