Advanced Flushing Techniques

stnr420

Well-Known Member
What a well thought out intelligent post, and it only took you three months to put it together.
I bet all your internet friends are impressed.
Totally bro bro bro...i .feed full strength to the end man...i absolutely love the taste of chlorophyll its great! Its a scientific fact....bro.....to grow krypto....
 

jaggwaa

Well-Known Member
OK, in search of Flush...here i come, so back in May, i harvested my first grow, the flower u see in my dp, yeah, super green. My plants smelled during veg couple days, and during flowering couple days, other wise no dankness, when i researched, i was not alone, if you shake a stem, or cola, they i could smell if for couple seconds, so i thought, well cure is the cure. Cure will bring back my smell, as i read. Now before all this, during veg, i dried some fan leaves and smoked them. First grow curiosity, those who have done it, know what i found out, the shittiest taste, man that day one thing cleared in my life, i.e this is how chlorophyll must tastes like. in joints, mixed with tobacco, my first harvested dried cured weed was ok, just like any other weed, but i couldn't smoke it via glass pipe. So strange harsh (chemical or iron or rusted burning coal steel type).... I did some research on flushing but all i found was same pissing contests. Anyways, now am in me second grow, flowering, just started week 5 today, out of my 4 plants, one is AK48, one day i was trying to remove brown yellow dried lower leaves, i noticed two things, one my hands got sticky, second, those leaves when i crushed them, they smelled soooooo beautiful, i don't have words, extremely sweet. So i decided to smoke them, and i did, the things i smelled, i tasted them and surprisingly the whole room is perfumed. Like a good expensive perfume. Though on this AK48, one is different from all my other plants, all fan leaves have some sort of resin on them, thats why hands got sticky. Now at the same time, i have a bag full of all the fine trim,that is full of trichomes from my last grow. But i cant even open that bad, that smells soooooooooo bad, like dirty socks or something..... i have not touched it and made it my waste bag. Now from all this i concluded ONE thing. The difference between a green leaf and a yellow leaf. Oh forgot to mention, those ak48 dead dried browned yellowed perfumed leaves i smoked, they were lighter then b&h lights cigarettes. I think its called smooth smoke.
So the conclusion is, this time, i want a yellowed browned plant at the end of my harvest. I don't want to see green anywhere. Now that i know the difference between a ''everything depleted'' leaves or buds, and green leaves and buds, I don't want a single particle in my plants. Everything depleted to the max. Thats what am trying to figure out now. I DON'T WANT GREEN. Now that i have this experience, all the people, who cannot differentiate between weed tastes and smell, unfortunately they are just deprived of this beautiful side of this amazing plant.
Now to achieve that ''everything depleted'' state, flush makes sense. But it i don't think that plants can deplete themselves in 2 weeks or 10 days, i don't think its enough time. Someone here said that u have to feed it in a ways that towards the end, all that you have fed is utilized, also the one that is stored in plant matter. Now i want to make a discussion with people who strongly believe in depleting there plants of any chlorophyll or green stuff.
Now here comes another interesting question, why the bud itself remains green, wouldn't it be more tastier if it was deprived of all the green in it, by green i mean chlorophyll and its mothers brothers and sister elements that a plant stores.

Now what i have in mind:
last two weeks or 10 days are not enough. If i think that my strain is a 12 weeker, then i should stop nutrients at around week 7 or 8. But i have yet to test it. Am looking for folks, who have done these experiments with there plants, otherwise i have a harvest coming in 4 or 6 or 8 weeks, And my goal is no green on every single leaf, even the ones protruding from within the bud, all fan leaves or sugar leaves. They must be yellow.
Another way would be you don't harvest unless its all yellow. Please if you have experience with this,. Kindly share your method, like how long it will take to make my plant yellow by giving it plain water or RO water, RO would be more good, coz tap still contains lot of stuff, calcium etc etc, so RO is the way to go, the goal is my plant should itself become clean like RO water, and the only thing that should remain is the zero chemical chlorophyll free plant matter(bud) with just the Resin.
 

jaggwaa

Well-Known Member
i also have a couple more things in my mind, with flushing, reducing the fan leaves towards the very end, and then just before last couple days in darkness, completely trim it. Then put it in dark. This way,we can artificially reduce the available source of nutrients, and force the plant to utilize the sugarleaves that are withing the bud. If any of you guyz have done similar things, kindly chime in and enlighten me
 

Johnny Lawrence

Well-Known Member
i also have a couple more things in my mind, with flushing, reducing the fan leaves towards the very end, and then just before last couple days in darkness, completely trim it. Then put it in dark. This way,we can artificially reduce the available source of nutrients, and force the plant to utilize the sugarleaves that are withing the bud. If any of you guyz have done similar things, kindly chime in and enlighten me
You need to submerge the roots in boiling water right after pulling the plants. There is also a technique where you wrap the roots in a towel soaked in sugar water. I've never done it though, so you might want to google it.
 

jaggwaa

Well-Known Member
Look flush is a half system. anything we do with the roots is half system, flush will clear the medium nutrients, the problem is everything that is inside the plant. I think the plant is storing food in its stems and leaves since day one, the whole veg thing is like making a 10 story high building(nodes) and and every story gets its storage compartment(Leaves). Flush will help because it will clear the root zone. The plants personal storages have to be depleted. It should eat itself, cannibalize maybe, and that requires times, and the plant alive. If its dead, it cannot use those materials. So i need to figure out how long it will take to do that. because just after the flush plant will start depleting from the roots, maybe that roots boiling will kill them and all that nutrients stored in roots will be unavailable to plants, then it will look into its personal storages, leaves primarily. I think it will be equal to cutting the main stem, but then again then the plant will die soon, before it could use the greens present in it. So plant have to be alive, with its medium depleted by flushes, and growing(completing its flower stage) using whats left. Thats why i want to trim it while alive. I have not seen or heard anyone doing this, its just something in my mind. Keeping it alive after trimming will ensure it uses that last bits of greens that is present wherever.
If anyone has tried this please let me know. Thank You
 

jaggwaa

Well-Known Member
Thank you brother, very valuable information, specially this line from this article,
''''Remember all mineral elements need to come from the soil and if water uptake is interrupted for any reason, so is nutrient uptake.''''
This means if we usually stop watering towards the end, all nutrient uptake from roots will be stopped. Guess what... flushing is the opposite of it:shock:
 

jaggwaa

Well-Known Member
so this concludes a flush more earlier then last two weeks including the dark period and the last two weeks should be without water, that would force the plant to consume its greens.
 

MichiganMedGrower

Well-Known Member
I have tried so many variations of fading plants and switching to water early late and never and every time the plants that finished healthy with a medium green uniform color and little to no necrosis (dry dying browning leaves) they had the best flavor and potency. Also complexity. More mature array of various cannabanoids.


Some strains smoke great right off the vine after drying a week even. Some strains like haze take 2-4 weeks to cure and then keep getting better if done right.


So I always taper feed to the plants needs to the end. Sometimes they only need water the last week or so.
 

jaggwaa

Well-Known Member
I have tried so many variations of fading plants and switching to water early late and never and every time the plants that finished healthy with a medium green uniform color and little to no necrosis (dry dying browning leaves) they had the best flavor and potency. Also complexity. More mature array of various cannabanoids.


Some strains smoke great right off the vine after drying a week even. Some strains like haze take 2-4 weeks to cure and then keep getting better if done right.


So I always taper feed to the plants needs to the end. Sometimes they only need water the last week or so.
Maybe you could answer one thing for me.
Suppose at the end of week8, i have 10% clear, 20% amber and 70% cloudy trichomes, (thats we usually look for). I need to know how in how many weeks this ratio can change to 60 to 70% amber?
Thanks
 

KryptoBud

Well-Known Member
Once inside plants, nutrients are transported to where they are needed, typically to growing points. Once incorporated by the plant, some elements can be immobile while others can be remobilized. Immobile elements essentially get locked in place and that is where they stay. Those that can be remobilized can leave their original location and move to areas of greater demand. Knowing which are mobile or immobile is helpful in diagnosing deficiency symptoms.

Since immobile elements do not easily move within the plant, when deficiency symptoms occur they show up in new growth (Photo 1). When mobile elements become limiting, they can be scavenged from older growth and moved to where they are most needed, causing deficiency symptoms in older growth (Photo 2).

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/knowing_nutrient_mobility_is_helpful_in_diagnosing_plant_nutrient_deficienc#return

About half of elements absorbed can not be moved in the plant. It doesn't matter how much water or how long you starve it. Thats why they're called immobile,

When you flush or starve or whatever you wanna call it, you're creating deficiencies. That doesn't mean the elements that are lacking are now gone from the plant.

When leaves yellow they're taking the mobile elements and move them to new growth or buds. They're being moved around the plant not removed from the plant. It's what the plants are made of, and why they can scavenge old growth to feed new growth.

I think the problem people have with taste is chronic over feeding thinking they'll get bigger buds. Force feeding them for six weeks then starving them the last few weeks isn't productive. Slow and steady wins the race.
 

Johnny Lawrence

Well-Known Member
Once inside plants, nutrients are transported to where they are needed, typically to growing points. Once incorporated by the plant, some elements can be immobile while others can be remobilized. Immobile elements essentially get locked in place and that is where they stay. Those that can be remobilized can leave their original location and move to areas of greater demand. Knowing which are mobile or immobile is helpful in diagnosing deficiency symptoms.

Since immobile elements do not easily move within the plant, when deficiency symptoms occur they show up in new growth (Photo 1). When mobile elements become limiting, they can be scavenged from older growth and moved to where they are most needed, causing deficiency symptoms in older growth (Photo 2).

http://msue.anr.msu.edu/news/knowing_nutrient_mobility_is_helpful_in_diagnosing_plant_nutrient_deficienc#return

About half of elements absorbed can not be moved in the plant. It doesn't matter how much water or how long you starve it. Thats why they're called immobile,

When you flush or starve or whatever you wanna call it, you're creating deficiencies. That doesn't mean the elements that are lacking are now gone from the plant.

When leaves yellow they're taking the mobile elements and move them to new growth or buds. They're being moved around the plant not removed from the plant. It's what the plants are made of, and why they can scavenge old growth to feed new growth.

I think the problem people have with taste is chronic over feeding thinking they'll get bigger buds. Force feeding them for six weeks then starving them the last few weeks isn't productive. Slow and steady wins the race.
No. This is all wrong. Don't listen to this guy.

My suggestion would be a flush more earlier then last two weeks including the dark period and the last two weeks should be without water, that would force the plant to consume its greens.
 

jaggwaa

Well-Known Member
Ok, mobile or immobile, a leaf dried on the plant, turned different colors, and finally brown. Dried Brown, the thing about that is weather it has immobile nutrients in it or not, it has no funky chlorophyll like smell. It has a pure weed smell. Thats from where i started to think about all this.
even a bright yellow leaf dried will have that grassy smell. But a leaf that dropped by itself after plant consumed it has no smell or no green chemical chlorophyll smell. Thats what i want in my harvest
 
Top