Just bought my Model 48SAMS from Timber can't wait to join the big boys.

[Or_Gro]

While that will work, you still have two wires running from the fixture. What I had in mind was just using this at the point of the 2 drivers.View attachment 4178867

No, i understand. My point was really that this should have been done in the fixture design.

And, if they had posted a picture showing it, it would have been 100% my fault, given their custom build approach.

But if this is the only complaint i could come up with, it shows the quality of the product.

 

[Aolelon]

No, i understand. My point was really that this should have been done in the fixture design.

And, if they had posted a picture showing it, it would have been 100% my fault, given their custom build approach.

But if this is the only complaint i could come up with, it shows the quality of the product.

Yea im just saying if you wanted to make it more aesthetically pleasing by adding the connector yourself, its doable.

 

[Or_Gro]

Yea im just saying if you wanted to make it more aesthetically pleasing by adding the connector yourself, its doable.

Yeah, got it, thanks man. No disrespect intended.

Probably make change after these cindys finish up.



1000ppff across the tent @ 24”, about 70% intensity.

Prev lights couldn’t go higher, but did the job yieldwise.

 

[desirae420]

very nice i like the way youve trained your plants. very even.

 

[Or_Gro]

very nice i like the way youve trained your plants. very even.

Thanks, i call them screenless scroglines. Basically mainline technique for bushy strains.

 

[smokeybeard]

easy to make !!

Ha ha, I agree, however I am not the most savy builder. If you need some work done to a car I got you, but building things isn't my strong point. Some parts of it just don't click.

 

[Or_Gro]

48Sams Review:
Bought two 3000K 48Sams, for my 4’x4’ tent; mapped them individually, centered on a 2x4 grid; and as a pair, centered on each half of a 4x4 grid; using an Apogee MQ-500 with sensor centered on 6” squares.

Mapping was done at 6” height intervals between 12” and 48”, at three dimmer settings: lowest, highest, and medium (medium set by taking middle PPFD reading between lowest & highest dimmer settings at center of each fixture at 12” height).

The 2x4 grid was placed with its length parallel to the tent door, approximately midway between door and back wall of tent. The 4x4 grid filled the entire tent, with fixtures parallel longwise to tent side walls.

In both 2x4 and 4x4 mapping configurations the door of the tent was completely open (4’ wide), for ease of mapping. This resulted in little or no reflection of photons on that side of the grid, resulting in a minor impact on PPFD moving from the center of the grid to the door. In other words, values at the bottom of each mapping table are slightly lower than they would be with the tent door closed.

Mapping readings were recorded in standard PPFD units (umol/meter sq/second), but are presented as PPFD/1000, rounded to one decimal place for ease of presentation, and to focus attention on uniformity across the respective grids.

Individually, both fixtures gave the same readings at all height and dimmer settings, showing the amazing uniformity of these Samsung diodes/boards. I have attached the 2x4 mapping for one of the fixtures; and for the 4x4 mapping.

For reference, PPFD readings in the 300-600 range (comparable to 0.3-0.6 in these tables) are considered good for veg; 600-1000 are considered good for flowering without CO2; 1000-1500 are considered good for flowering with CO2.

2’x4’ Mapping:
View attachment 4178560
View attachment 4178562
View attachment 4178563

4’x4’ Mapping:
View attachment 4178564
View attachment 4178565
View attachment 4178566
View attachment 4178567

My Opinion:
The Timber 48sams fixture has the same Samsung LM301B boards and boardcount, as HLG’s current top-of-the-line fixture (HLG 550 V2); with a somewhat different layout, different drivers & heat sinks, standalone dimmer, and a sweet aluminum frame. Add to this package Timber’s current pricing, and this fixture is a hands down superior offering!

Overall, I love these streamlined, lightweight fixtures. They have outstandingly uniform coverage - especially for a 4x4. You can lay down uniform 1000+ PPFD using numerous height and dimmer combos.

I particularly like the dimmer device on the 48sams, which makes it easy to adjust intensity when fixture is in a high location or in limited space.

I have no electrical expertise, so I don’t know the tradeoffs involved; but in this configuration, I would have preferred a single plug fixture. Given Timber’s custom buikd approach, you can do what i didn’t, ask Dan to work up a single driver design so you can have a single plug per fixture.

I look forward to seeing what quantum boards can do for me, someone used to growing 1/2 lb (dry) plants under Kind leds.

Btw, at ~70% intensity, i lose about 15-35 PPFD per clear inch of distance from light [at higher intensity i lose more per clear inch; at lower intensity i lose less per clear inch].

i lose 30-70 PPFD per canopy inch, for canopy that looks like this




Currently seeing this:

 

[nfhiggs]

Btw, at medium dimmer, i lose about 15-35 PPFD per clear inch of distance from light; i lose double that per canopy inch.

for canopy that looks like this
View attachment 4179473

View attachment 4179476

Currently seeing this:
View attachment 4179479

May I ask what the purpose of the plumb bobs are?

 

[Aolelon]

May I ask what the purpose of the plumb bobs are?

I was looking at that, only thing I can think of is to make sure each side is level to the canopy, or measure distance for each side

 

[Dave455]

A really good example that one need at least 18" distance to the canopy to get good uniformity and avoid hotspots with Q-boards. And you have done the testing with 2 fixtures but normally one Sams48 is recommended for a 4x 4' area (and it's enough actually). So maybe 18-24" are even better if you do not use another frame to spread out the boards. In my opinion the fixtures are too small for such a big area and I would sell frame and boards separately. This way people can get much better uniformity and such a frame could be pre-made and only dissambled for shipping. Takes maybe 5 extra minutes to re-assemble but you get a much better light with almost no center hotspot.
I would at least include such frames in the assortment and use the same 2020 profiles that are used on the Sams48 fixture as they are very flexible and one could offer frames for almost any surface from 2x 4' to 5x 5' or more.
Would not only be practical for customers but another source of income ..

This is also why these fixture makers should do actual PPFD maps and publish results of their light vs. calculated numbers.

 

[Or_Gro]

May I ask what the purpose of the plumb bobs are?

Left over from mapping, they’re marked every 6”, using them currently to center plant at set distances, then level fixture (3D distance from center of light, as well as angle of light, affects ppfd level hitting plant surfaces).

Once i figure out sensitivity of diff light variables, may get rid of them.

 

[Or_Gro]

This is also why these fixture makers should do actual PPFD maps and publish results of their light vs. calculated numbers.

I mainly post on another site (posted these maps on several sites, for just this reason), nfhiggs can confirm i have a major rag-on about light makers not posting similar mapping.

My feeling is you don’t know didley about how diff lights compare in their primary function unless there is a published (and verifiable) ppfd mapping like this.

I’ll be mapping my Kind led combos after this next flowering cycle. I already know they have pretty deep penetration and high intensity centers, but poor high-intensity uniformity across a grid @ 22”. Will see where they’re better and worse.

Hopefully companies start providing, or enough growers do something like me.

Buy a legit ppfd meter, map your light, post it to help fellow growers.

 

[nfhiggs]

I mainly post on another site (posted these maps on several sites, for just this reason), nfhiggs can confirm i have a major rag-on about light makers not posting similar mapping.

My feeling is you don’t know didley about how diff lights compare in their primary function unless there is a published (and verifiable) ppfd mapping like this.

I’ll be mapping my Kind led combos after this next flowering cycle. I already know they have pretty deep penetration and high intensity centers, but poor high-intensity uniformity across a grid @ 22”. Will see where they’re better and worse.

Hopefully companies start providing, or enough growers do something like me.

Buy a legit ppfd meter, map your light, post it to help fellow growers.

Once I get a little extra cash saved up I will be doing that myself.

 

[Or_Gro]

Diesels & Hazes: Manifolds built, mains trimmed up and set to go vertical, 12:12 in 7-10 days...



... under these

 

[dannykay]

Yeah, got it, thanks man. No disrespect intended.

Probably make change after these cindys finish up.

View attachment 4178876
View attachment 4178881
1000ppff across the tent @ 24”, about 70% intensity.

Prev lights couldn’t go higher, but did the job yieldwise.

Great job on training these plants mate, they look awesome.
Is it just me or are all the tops light bleached from the intensity?

 

[Or_Gro]

Great job on training these plants mate, they look awesome.
Is it just me or are all the tops light bleached from the intensity?

Thanks.

Your eyes are fine. The Cindys are finishing up last 2-3 weeks of flowering in new 4x4, under new qbs.

They vegged and did most of flowering under my Kind 1000 led watt light in a 2x3x6 cab, w/ 22” gap betwen tops and light. Couldn’t raise light higher, and even with dimming the tops bleached.

Not pretty, but those tops are almost dripping resin. Earlier today I undid most of the wires holding interior tops flat, afterwards so sticky, made two 1/4” finger hash balls. Hoping for a lb from those two.

 

[dannykay]

Thanks.

Your eyes are fine. The Cindys are finishing up last 2-3 weeks of flowering in new 4x4, under new qbs.

They vegged and did most of flowering under my Kind 1000 led watt light in a 2x3x6 cab, w/ 22” gap betwen tops and light. Couldn’t raise light higher, and even with dimming the tops bleached.

Not pretty, but those tops are almost dripping resin. Earlier today I undid most of the wires holding interior tops flat, afterwards so sticky, made two 1/4” finger hash balls. Hoping for a lb from those two.

They look great in any case. I've got a few bleached tops this run as well, different strains with different tolarence I guess.

 

[Or_Gro]

They look great in any case. I've got a few bleached tops this run as well, different strains with different tolarence I guess.

I’m a light freak, probably always push it a little too far. But wtf, i’m gonna burn em anyway.

 

[Or_Gro]

Anyone tried hlg 35, red supplement?
https://horticulturelightinggroup.com/collections/lamps/products/hlg-35



Whaddayathink?

 

[Randomblame]

Nice spectrum and for sure useful to increase over all efficiency. Far-red for instance can be useful because it allows the plants to ripen out faster and it compensates for the different states of excitement of PS-I and PS-II which occur with LED lighting.(see paper below).
Red and deep reds photosyntetic radiation is used to 100 and 98% by the plants. No energy is wasted for less efficient wavelength. If you add these wavelength to your white LED fixture you pump up the efficiency of the whole light.
I see enough reasons why they are permanently sold out ..