Need help choosing drivers!!!

[Greenman218]

1700K is just mega heavy in red. 4 out of 24 of them isn't a bad idea.

Just really not getting much blue at all. It's more so lacking in blue than being super powerful red.View attachment 4179647

Yea I keep going back and forth on all 3000k or mixing some 2700k or 1700k!! It's just for flower but now that I think about it, @CobKits I also have a amare 450uvb that i run next to my other cobs and i keep the veg switch with blue light and flower switch with the cobs both on and it always seems to produce a more dense flower!! I wonder now if its the blue light making it that way. Now thinking I should do a couple 5k instead of the 27k or 17k!! Can't find much info or people trying these mixed Kelvin temps under flower And wondering if I should stop contemplating and just stick with 3k!! It's like buying a car!!

 

[welight]

@welight is that 300v rating for the Pico connectors or holders? And if I solder instead of using the Molex would the rating still be the Same! Just trying to decide between Vero c or Vero c se and why is the poke in version cheaper than the regular one on some sites and other sites the regular is cheaper!! If it was you buying what Vero c and what driver would you choose to drive them in series on cc driver on how many? Thanks for the help

Hi Greenman
The PICO is rated at 300v the SE connector(built in) is 500v. I cant explain the cost differences except to say that Bridgelux recently had a price reduction so the differentials may relate to what stock people are holding, at what price and therefore may reflect a difference in the old and new pricing. The issue of preference mostly relates to secondary optics/reflectors. less choice on SE, if your not using an optic of any kind then likely the SE for the solderless functionality, if it was me I would get the original Vero and solder wire to the pads, better electrical connectivity/capacity all round in my opinion, but I can solder, so depends on your skill sets
Cheers
Mark

 

[Greenman218]

Hi Greenman
The PICO is rated at 300v the SE connector(built in) is 500v. I cant explain the cost differences except to say that Bridgelux recently had a price reduction so the differentials may relate to what stock people are holding, at what price and therefore may reflect a difference in the old and new pricing. The issue of preference mostly relates to secondary optics/reflectors. less choice on SE, if your not using an optic of any kind then likely the SE for the solderless functionality, if it was me I would get the original Vero and solder wire to the pads, better electrical connectivity/capacity all round in my opinion, but I can solder, so depends on your skill sets
Cheers
Mark

Thanks great to know! Yes I can solder, im a residential electrician and never liked when people back stabbed or poke wire in the back of devices because its gonna expand and contract and it can loose connection easier than wrapping it around the screw. So I'm still learning this voltage with led In series, so if pico is 300v and vero c is like 68. Something volts 68v x 4 =272v which means that the most i could run in series rightt???What optics are you referring to, I know that the reflector will go on with se but I thought optics went on outer diameter of sink! Do they have smaller ones that cover just the led

 

[welight]

Thanks great to know! Yes I can solder, im a residential electrician and never liked when people back stabbed or poke wire in the back of devices because its gonna expand and contract and it can loose connection easier than wrapping it around the screw. So I'm still learning this voltage with led In series, so if pico is 300v and vero c is like 68. Something volts 68v x 4 =272v which means that the most i could run in series rightt???What optics are you referring to, I know that the reflector will go on with se but I thought optics went on outer diameter of sink! Do they have smaller ones that cover just the led

yes your correct, most guys on here use poke in because they dont want or cant solder, but solder to the pad is no doubt the absolute best way to connect. The SE has no way to allow for coupling of an optic the to holder. Ledil have started to drop some holders that suit the Vero18 SE but not the 29 so you have you either use a actual optic, below is our 140mm pin fin with option shown. So the 1st and third small bottom image is an example of what works with SE, a Large Silica glass optic or Ledil Silicon lens. There is really no option Im aware of to couple say an Angelina to a 29SE, if someone else knows of a solution, chime in

 

[Greenman218]

Thanks for the Information! I'm almost 100% on getting the solder version! I have se on my timber v4 model that has a ledil reflector but haven't looked much into optics and the two you pictured above are the only ones I've seen!! What kind are you referring too that will not fit with the se?

 

[pulpoinspace]

He is referring to the angelina style reflectors (the white plastic cones). they do not fit with the SE (poke-in) veros. there is not a solution he is aware of. You can either run lenses (the glass/plastic ones he posted) with the SE veros, or you can the regular veros with whatever optics you want.

If you're saying that your timber light uses SE veros with angelina style reflectors then why dont you reverse engineer to see how they did that? my guess is they are just regular veros.

At the moment those are your only options. Most people who grow in smaller reflective spaces like tents say to just use bare cobs anyway because focusing the light with reflectors will make hotspots

 

[Greenman218]

He is referring to the angelina style reflectors (the white plastic cones). they do not fit with the SE (poke-in) veros. there is not a solution he is aware of. You can either run lenses (the glass/plastic ones he posted) with the SE veros, or you can the regular veros with whatever optics you want.

If you're saying that your timber light uses SE veros with angelina style reflectors then why dont you reverse engineer to see how they did that? my guess is they are just regular veros.

At the moment those are your only options. Most people who grow in smaller reflective spaces like tents say to just use bare cobs anyway because focusing the light with reflectors will make hotspots

Ok, I just looked and they are se (poke in)version! The Se is the same spacing but only 2 holes! So after taking a quick look at my v4, the reflector holder align with se holes and use longer screws to hold it! So the cob and the reflector holder are held by the same screw!! They are ledil reflectors.

 

[Greenman218]

So i decided on the hlg480-c1400b!! Now I'm wondering if the newer meanwell drivers 0-10v( dim to off) need a resistor before the potentiometer? Vs the old drivers 1-10v. I know I should add one on the pos side for full driver output but not so sure about dimming below 10%. Any info appreciated!!

 

[Greenman218]

So how far apart would you all put these veros at 100w each?? Im doing 4 cobs per fixture for 3x3 area i think! Whst spacing ahould i put these cobs on center? Tia

 

[pulpoinspace]

i have 4 vero 29C @ 95w each in a 3x3. i pretty much built a 2x2 square frame and then put my cobs in the corners of it. so the centers of the cobs are about 10" from walls of the tent and like 16" apart. if that makes sense. i didn't put too much thought into it, but it works really well for me.

pretty close to a timber 4vs but just a little more spread out.

 

[Greenman218]

So finished this one! 24 x 20 frame cobs can slide back and forth and screwd tight if i find a sweet spot!!

 

[Greenman218]

The drivers are capable of running one more cob per fixture. I ordered 4 4k vero29c to build a seperate veg light but now thinking i should relocate the huge drivers on the side and mount the 4k in the middle and dim it down to 400w!! Any suggestions? Would a 2700k do better in middle then 4000k? Just figured more full spectrum would be better than to much red but im not sure anyone have experience with this?