Which driver for 4 Zeus xT 308 lm301b in 4x4

Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Here's a siutable ballast to drive two 54w T5 bulbs in once.
Also pretty cheap and a wiring diagram in printed on the side.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Vossloh-EVG-elektronisches-Vorschaltgerat-2-x-54-Watt-T5/201098456116?hash=item2ed266ec34:g:xX4AAMXQdm5Q-sg8


2 reflector sheets from 1mm aluminum, ~8cm wide, 120cm long, wing angle 45°. I don't know if the link shows the correct configs so I've added a screenie with the configuration below..

https://bleche-nach-mass.de/kantteile/58-u-profi?gclid=CjwKEAiA9JW2BRDxtaq2ruDg22oSJACgtTxcgv-Gd5upL6JCtGqP3kGiVtir8nGie1gAnu_u8adlThoClDbw_wcB#001-0286


Screenshot_20180828-093042.png

If 30mm for "b" is not possible you can use 40mm and choose 130° on each side. This way you still get reflectors less than 8cm wide. You can use smaller wings but keep in mind you don't want the light gets lost on the walls. Plastics do not reflect UVB..
 
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Belko

Belko

Well-Known Member
Thank you very much "the UV project" 8-)materializes.
You make things easier for me, I only have to order ^^ .
I can not read the pdf arcadia I have searched a little on Google but I have not found ^^
I have long thought about how to put things in place, I will have to go with two arcadia d3 / t5 39w 85cm (reptile = 12% uvb) or (dragon = 14% uvb). I think to go with the dragon D3 which are a little more efficient, the reflector will be 1000mm long instead of the expected 1200mm. the 2x39 drivers are hard to find, I found 2 drivers in 2x39w PC2x39 T5 PRO lp orsam and Philips HF-R 239 TL5 EII 220-240V I think the Philips is a dimmable driver...the brands speak to me and they both seem to agree. i will start to collect the material :p.
I will do my best to distribute the fair light, for a first time with UV I think I m good^ ^ and then I could add a third lamp if the tests are conclusive. I continue my work on the cobs ^^:bigjoint:

I just found others drivers like the HF-P 2 24-39 TL5 HO EII 24/39 w, and others like vossloh schwabe or ELT .I will wait for your advice ^^ I don’t think that a good idea to dim an UV lamp?
 
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Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Belko said:
Thank you very much "the UV project" 8-)materializes.
You make things easier for me, I only have to order ^^ .
I can not read the pdf arcadia I have searched a little on Google but I have not found ^^
I have long thought about how to put things in place, I will have to go with two arcadia d3 / t5 39w 85cm (reptile = 12% uvb) or (dragon = 14% uvb). I think to go with the dragon D3 which are a little more efficient, the reflector will be 1000mm long instead of the expected 1200mm. the 2x39 drivers are hard to find, I found 2 drivers in 2x39w PC2x39 T5 PRO lp orsam and Philips HF-R 239 TL5 EII 220-240V I think the Philips is a dimmable driver...the brands speak to me and they both seem to agree. i will start to collect the material :p.
I will do my best to distribute the fair light, for a first time with UV I think I m good^ ^ and then I could add a third lamp if the tests are conclusive. I continue my work on the cobs ^^:bigjoint:

I just found others drivers like the HF-P 2 24-39 TL5 HO EII 24/39 w, and others like vossloh schwabe or ELT .I will wait for your advice ^^ I don’t think that a good idea to dim an UV lamp?
Click to expand...

Hey, yeah, sometimes it's nice to be spoon fed, lol!
All of the brands you mentioned are good and made good ballasts. Simply take the cheapest one which is probably not dimmable anyway. Its not needed and could affect the spectrum and it's not mentioned on the cardbox that these bulbs are dimmable. I've started with a 39w bulb too and they produce enough UVB althrough, it's a bit too less in the corners at 12". But with 16-18" coverage is good and above anyway, simply check it with mainlights off and use a lux-meter to compare readings.
At 16-18" I have ~2200lx directly under the bulb and 1600lx along the sides, around 70%. In the corners it's only 50% but still usable intensity. 120μW/cm² in the center would be ~60 in the corners and ~85 along the sides.
I assuming it's because of not enough space but it still works with 2x 39w. And you could choose the D3dragon to compensate for the missing watts from 2 54w bulbs.

Thats the interesting part of the test. They used three different reflectors to show the impact with different materials.
Polished aluminum(Root-it) seems to produce the highest readings but also looks narrower than the other two, while hammered aluminum(stucco) seems to have more diffuse distribution. For my Agromax bulbs I will definately use the latter but for my Arcadia I've used anodize aluminum. The micro structure not only improves the heat dissipation it also ensures that the light is reflected more diffusely than from a polished surface. Nevertheless, you can make it so narrow that only a little light is wasted on the walls.
Screenshot_20180829-104303.png

I'll upload the pdf again, hope it works now. The rest is anyway all about how well she corresponds to sun light...
 

Attachments

Argentocobs

Argentocobs

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Hmm!
This screenie shows CRI80 data! Maybe the wrong screenshot?
Click to expand...
Yes but look at the spectral distribution with a peak at 630 nm and it's not cri 80 its 90 . I notice that too in the datasheet but the firt page says they are hi cri .and they have olso standard cri 80 strips ...
IMG_20180829_071749.jpg
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Argentocobs said:
Yes but look at the spectral distribution with a peak at 630 nm and it's not cri 80 its 90 . I notice that too in the datasheet but the firt page says they are hi cri .and they have olso standard cri 80 strips ...
View attachment 4189016
Click to expand...
Yeah, I've seen the spectrum charts but numbers are definately for CRI80. Did you try octopart to find them? Maybe you can get data from an official distributor via support. For sure interesting strips if they soon became available.
Would you upload the datasheet, please?
 
Argentocobs

Argentocobs

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Yeah, I've seen the spectrum charts but numbers are definately for CRI80. Did you try octopart to find them? Maybe you can get data from an official distributor via support. For sure interesting strips if they soon became available.
Would you upload the datasheet, please?
Click to expand...
Yes , they hard to find. Here are the datasheets .

http://www.docs.lighting.philips.com/en_gb/oem/download/linear-led-systems/20180501_Fortimo_LED_Line_1ft_2000lm_8xx_3R_HV4_.pdf
http://www.docs.lighting.philips.com/en_gb/oem/download/linear-led-systems/20180501_Fortimo_LED_Line_2ft_4000lm_8xx_1R_HV4_.pdf

http://www.lighting.philips.co.uk/oem-emea/support/technical-downloads
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Hmm! CRI90 must be" Fortimo_LED_Line_2ft_4000lm_9xx". Really anoying that they mixed CRI80 numbers and CRI90 spectrum charts. The pdf's have obviously been built together from whom which has no idea of lighting, lol! More things could be wrong which makes the whole datasheet useless for pro's.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Belko said:
I also look at for the led strip Cri 90 I Found this

http://www.holectron.com/wp-content/uploads/FL-112.N-datasheet.pdf
Click to expand...
Forget them!
125lm/w for the most efficient 19,2w CRI90 strip. The higher powered ones are even less efficient. Most of the strips using additional resistors to enable CV powering are of low efficiency. Strips with Nichia Optisolis or 757v2 like the ones cutter.com.au offers are realy nice and efficient like heck, if there where not the shipping costs and custom fees I would for sure have them.
Damn, one can get even them with additional deep-reds or a deep-/far-red mix. They are configurable in terms of spectrum and additional monos.
 
Belko

Belko

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Hey, yeah, sometimes it's nice to be spoon fed, lol!
All of the brands you mentioned are good and made good ballasts. Simply take the cheapest one which is probably not dimmable anyway. Its not needed and could affect the spectrum and it's not mentioned on the cardbox that these bulbs are dimmable. I've started with a 39w bulb too and they produce enough UVB althrough, it's a bit too less in the corners at 12". But with 16-18" coverage is good and above anyway, simply check it with mainlights off and use a lux-meter to compare readings.
At 16-18" I have ~2200lx directly under the bulb and 1600lx along the sides, around 70%. In the corners it's only 50% but still usable intensity. 120μW/cm² in the center would be ~60 in the corners and ~85 along the sides.
I assuming it's because of not enough space but it still works with 2x 39w. And you could choose the D3dragon to compensate for the missing watts from 2 54w bulbs.

Thats the interesting part of the test. They used three different reflectors to show the impact with different materials.
Polished aluminum(Root-it) seems to produce the highest readings but also looks narrower than the other two, while hammered aluminum(stucco) seems to have more diffuse distribution. For my Agromax bulbs I will definately use the latter but for my Arcadia I've used anodize aluminum. The micro structure not only improves the heat dissipation it also ensures that the light is reflected more diffusely than from a polished surface. Nevertheless, you can make it so narrow that only a little light is wasted on the walls.
View attachment 4189010

I'll upload the pdf again, hope it works now. The rest is anyway all about how well she corresponds to sun light...
Click to expand...
i looked at the reflector, the price is twice for ev1 quality anodized aluminum. I think I will still take them and they will surely be more efficient in time

the boards force me to put the two Uvb lamps in the center. There will be 10 cm spacing between each lamp,
each lamp will be 45cm m from the orca walls against 30 cm ideally. Maybe I should open a little more the angle of the reflector facing the wall to have a better light spread ?
I have no interest in bringing the Uv lamp closer the walls if they do not reflect UV.

I can still gain 5 cm to be 40 cm from the walls, pushing even more boards on the sides. I will not be able to distribute cobs correctly
And
if I want to put Uv lamps to 30 cm walls for my 4x4 (Fram 3x3) I have to completely stick the boards in the center.
 
Belko

Belko

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Forget them!
125lm/w for the most efficient 19,2w CRI90 strip. The higher powered ones are even less efficient. Most of the strips using additional resistors to enable CV powering are of low efficiency. Strips with Nichia Optisolis or 757v2 like the ones cutter.com.au offers are realy nice and efficient like heck, if there where not the shipping costs and custom fees I would for sure have them.
Damn, one can get even them with additional deep-reds or a deep-/far-red mix. They are configurable in terms of spectrum and additional monos.
Click to expand...
I thought maybe he was using the 757v2, I'm desperate for strips 757v2 lol, optisolis would be the dream ^^

it would seem that cobs is the best alternative i will continue to search. hope keep alive^^
 
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Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Yeah, the nice thing with the sheet configutator is you can set different angles. But it's easier to mount the reflectors with the opening directed to each half of the canopy. Simply mount them with two parallel screws and place a few washers under one side. Should be enough to turn the beam angle slightly outwards.
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Belko said:
I thought maybe he was using the 757v2, I'm desperate for 757v2 strips lol, optisolis would be a dream ^^

I thought maybe he was using the 757v2, I'm desperate for strips 757v2 lol, optisolis would be the dream ^^

it would seem that cobs is the best alternative i will continue to search. hope keep alive^^
Click to expand...
COB's again? I thought you'll use boards and red/far-red strips to get CRI90+? No need to add CRI90 COB's or did you decided against deep- and far-red to keep it easier?
 
Belko

Belko

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
COB's again? I thought you'll use boards and red/far-red strips to get CRI90+? No need to add CRI90 COB's or did you decided against deep- and far-red to keep it easier?
Click to expand...
personally I prefer to add deep red, far red^^, I could more easily play with the spectrum and add / remove other wavelength as I want later, the efficiency is on their side and I will already have the 730 nm if I want to experiment with EoD.

the 3000k cob Cri90´s red is beautiful, it will surely have a better spread but I don’t need 240w(12 cobs x 20w) of extra light that I can not dim because I run at least, in my space and on my bill^^.
I prefer to exploit the most effective light

I think if i need more light it’s better add 2 Zeus boards and make them run lower or wait for 90Cri effective ~ 180lm / w

however if there is a real interest for plants to go with the cobs with their current efficiency ....
 
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Belko

Belko

Well-Known Member
I already spent some time on the live configurator of led tech, I Went on a base of 10% deep red 660 nm
and 2% maximum of far red 730nm of the total power.
After the tests I think ~ 7 % 660 nm, the far red 730 nm will be limited to 2% of the maximum power to avoid trouble.
So 4 Zeus XT boards 3500k
~ 2a = 308w
~3a = 473w
gives us 20w / 33w of 660 nm oslon ssl150 hyper-red at 350ma (6%~7% according to the bin)
and 6w / 9w far red 730 nm ssl 120 at 350 ma I don’t want run the board 3amp but I can always add extra boards or strips to save leds in time and get more efficiency, with 2 extra Zeus boards 2a I am ~ 462w
 
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