homebrewer
Well-Known Member
No, it's not anecdotal as I have sent samples out for analysis. I'd post the exact numbers but I paid $200 for those tests. I could post those numbers but someone is going to have to pay me first
Dyna-Gro vs Advanced Nutrients Connoisseur (AK47 Grow)
- Thread starter homebrewer
- Start date
urbanmedgrower
Member
lol pay youNo, it's not anecdotal as I have sent samples out for analysis. I'd post the exact numbers but I paid $200 for those tests. I could post those numbers but someone is going to have to pay me first
urbanmedgrower
Member
so dirt has potassium, or holds it better? i dont get it sorry.No, it's not anecdotal as I have sent samples out for analysis. I'd post the exact numbers but I paid $200 for those tests. I could post those numbers but someone is going to have to pay me first
I have used soil for about a year no new amendment and only needed to feed because N was needed. Even reused soil with dynagro in it and people swear chems kill soil life.
PK moves slow.
Unfortunately you appear to want proof I didn't get a soil test done after. Its done before. But I do know the soil had too much pk to begin with.
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
I wish you could while remaining anonymous.
urbanmedgrower
Member
ok he said dirt/peat/coco... so what, these mediums have potassium already in them? how would hydro not hold potassium? Im not saying its bs (hey im going on a full run of just dg fp and silica) but i NEED to know why. why would promix hp not need potassium as much as hydro...does it hold potassium better then hydro? I know flushing is bs and can prove it WITH SCIENCE....lol but just dont understand why peat will need less pk or less potassium. And please dont say "the lab results..." cause that just means you cant explain it either.
GrowRijt
Well-Known Member
Wow. Kinda stoked this thread popped up again. First time I went through it was 2014 ish. HB gets my props. I took his effort and testing and made my own adjustments. Tested myself within the limits set here and it gave me a solid foundation to learn. I’m cheap and lazy and these are my good traits. Lol. I have run foliage pro at 1ml per gallon with the silica at 1ml start to finish. Not a single deficiency. None. I’ve gone up since but I really wanted to see how little I could get away with. I now read the plants better, I’ve added gp massive to bloom cycles and it’s a good mix for me using promix. If you want to act like a mad scientist mixing 10 bottles do your thing.
yes soil will hold potassium just like phosphorus.
"In general, the role of phosphorus and potassium in the plant is maintenance. Both are highly concentrated in new growth and are responsible for keeping the system operating smoothly. Both phosphorus and potassium are immobile in the soil, meaning they don't move readily with water"
Potassium doesn't move through the soil very fast. I can't speak for hydroponics it would be a guess of easier absorbtion with roots sitting in solution but I'm not a hydro guy. Plenty here though.
But like I said man the information is here but I didn't test after reusing so I can't read off what was left.
urbanmedgrower
Member
thanks guys you are are very valuable information, it has made understand a lot of things, if any of you are in the Quebec City area ever, hit me up.
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
Another important tidbit for hydro is that N seems readily available at all times. What I mean by that is you don't need a lot of N in hydro to keep the plants green. In peat/dirt/coco the availability seems different, N doesn't seem as readily available, meaning a grow/veg formula is required for best results.
kaoss_11
Well-Known Member
We switched from FP to Jacks then Megacrop.
Issue I had with FP was it is expensive in comparison to the other 2 when your purchasing 5 gallons at a time. The 25lb bags is obviously the bang for buck.
We are in hydro with clay pebbles, water chillers at 68f, air diffusers and microbes in the reservoirs. So with FP you are correct the N is very available in true hydro however the magnesium they provide is very low. We have found that in hydro our plants need more mag and sulfur. I know that to be true based off when we switched to jacks. Plants just ran better.Most run 3-2-1 with jacks where we ran the recommend dosage of 3.6 on jacks and 2.4 CaNi with stellar results.
We also ran bloom and I never truly liked the results. I think it pumps the plant with too much phosphorus and cant keep your plants green and no matter how you flush the ash will be black because of that. Same thing with magpro, too much phosphorus and with mag pro its really just an expensive Epsom Salt with a NPK. Just purchase a 12lb bag of epsom salt and supplement with your base. We have tried bloom, FP, and grow, all are low on sulfur and mag. and we would run into slight issues nothing major. I loved dynagrow products and I do belive they are good I just think their is better out there for the people.
The comparison would be dynagro product vs megacrop being mc is a all in one as well.
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
For veg? FP should not be used during flower in hydro.
Dry foods for the most part will be cheaper to run but the issue I have with dry foods is the time it takes for them to fully dissolve in water. I'll gladly pay a few cents more per gallon if it saves me time; time that can be used keeping things clean, trimming, keeping things organized, or living a life. Plus the weighing and premixing of dry foods is annoying and time consuming. Seriously, in terms of cost per light, the difference between what you do and what I do might amount to a Big Mac over a 2 month period. That being said, use what works for you.
Do you have pictures of your mag and sulfur deficient plants? What exactly were you feeding them and at what rate? I've been using DG now for 7 years and have yet to see a single deficiency when using the foods correctly. In fact, I've never seen a mag or sulfur deficiency with any food that already contains both elements - probably because the mag and sulfur needs of our plants is very low. Rank the big six elements in order of importance and those two are at the bottom.
Just because we make the elements available does not mean the plants uptake them. To some extent I agree with you on yellowing plants with bloom but that depends where you're at in the flowering process.
Who smokes their herb down to the ashes? lol Are you growing or buying your weed? If you're growing, 2 hits and pack a new bowl, dude. Seriously though, ash color is a function of the mineral makeup of the soil. Look it up as it pertains to cigars.
kaoss_11
Well-Known Member
Once again. Not knocking Dyna-gro, I was a proud supporter at one point but learned through time there are better and easier products for US. Your a hobbyist correct me if im wrong. So I believe your pain points and perspective will be different than mine. Thats not a jab at you but an obvious fact. Hell the guy growing in the corner of his basement probably thinks we are all crazy since he probably gets away with using free samples all year.
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
Please post a link.
Exactly. A $300 piece of equipment for mixing salts. It's a pain in the ass to manually do it.
Break it down for me please. How many grams of salts does it take to get 1 gallon of RO water to 1.0 EC? Also, DG sells 55 gallon drums of food. Are dry salts cheaper? Maybe? I'd compare apples-to-apples if I were a commercial grower.
I've used rockwool, coco, promix, hydroton, and organic soils. What are you in? Do you think the required nutritional balance of the plants change based on the size of the plant and size of the operation?
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
Who smokes their herb down to the ashes?
This myth was promoted by many of the new cigar smokers in the cigar boom of the nineteen nineties. The fact is the color of the ash has no relevance to the quality of the cigar. The color of the ash is a direct result of the composition of the soil from which the tobaccos where grown. White ash simply means that the soil from where the tobacco was grown was high in phosphorus and calcium. Dominican, Honduran and Cuban soils are generally low in phosphorous and calcium and higher in magnesium. Magnesium tends to offer a sweeter smoke, with a darker and flakier ash. In most cases, gray ash will indicate healthier tobacco. Ash that is too white or too black is generally less desirable.
A better sign of quality based on ash is how long you can get it!
Might want to read this in regards to 'white ash being a sign of quality': https://paynemason.com/is-white-ash-a-sign-a-of-quality/
This myth was promoted by many of the new cigar smokers in the cigar boom of the nineteen nineties. The fact is the color of the ash has no relevance to the quality of the cigar. The color of the ash is a direct result of the composition of the soil from which the tobaccos where grown. White ash simply means that the soil from where the tobacco was grown was high in phosphorus and calcium. Dominican, Honduran and Cuban soils are generally low in phosphorous and calcium and higher in magnesium. Magnesium tends to offer a sweeter smoke, with a darker and flakier ash. In most cases, gray ash will indicate healthier tobacco. Ash that is too white or too black is generally less desirable.
A better sign of quality based on ash is how long you can get it!
kaoss_11
Well-Known Member
Clay pebbles as I stated before. No the nutritional balance doesnt change but the size in volume does(H20&Salts) and stage of life. So your big mac analogy earlier would not work as you cant relate.
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homebrewer
Well-Known Member
I'm asking you for some numbers and you're not supplying them. How many grams of food does it take for you to get to 1.0 EC for whatever size res you're using? Come on, it's simple math really.
kaoss_11
Well-Known Member
4.5 grams
homebrewer
Well-Known Member
What product(s) are you using exactly? I don't know anyone who only uses a single dry nutrient.
But by your numbers, an entire 9 week flowering cycle using your single bag of dry plant food in my 15 gallon res would cost $3.72 at 1.0 EC.
DG's Foliage Pro, using your 5 gallon numbers, for an entire 9 week flowering cycle in my 15 gallon res costs $6.60 at 1.0 EC.
So like I said, the difference is the cost of a Big Mac per res.
Now obviously the cost difference widens as the size and number of reservoirs increases but I'm still OK paying to not deal with dusty, incomplete dry foods that don't mix very well. Not to mention liquid foods are plug and play whether you're in containers or true hydro. Versatile and easy to use, baby! And pH stable as well.
If you're approaching this 'cost of fertilizer' topic from the perspective of a commercial warehouse grower then I'd say 'no shit' dry foods are cheaper on that scale. Those folks are producing B+ quality at best though.
"The best fertilizer is the shadow of the gardener!"