Can we build an HLG 550 or equivalent light? Ive got $$$ to burn

[Serverchris]

4 and half inch grinder with a cutting wheel will cut whatever you want. About 20 bucks at harbor freight.

 

[projectinfo]

4 and half inch grinder with a cutting wheel will cut whatever you want. About 20 bucks at harbor freight.

Yeah i tried that the first time, i dont have the steadiest hand lol we cut a 4x8 sheet in to 4x4 with the cutting wheel then cut them into the proper size strips on the table saw

Made for smooth lines and faster cuts with the aluminum vlade on the table saw. It has more, and smaller teeth

 

[Serverchris]

Oh I didn't realize you were talking about sheets, if you ever do need to cut sheets with a hand grinder take a piece of 2x4 and lay across the sheet where you want to cut and clamp it at each end. Then you can use the 2x4 as a guide to cut a straight line. I know you probably dont need this advice since you have a tablesaw but somebody else reading might could use the tip.

 

[projectinfo]

Oh I didn't realize you were talking about sheets, if you ever do need to cut sheets with a hand grinder take a piece of 2x4 and lay across the sheet where you want to cut and clamp it at each end. Then you can use the 2x4 as a guide to cut a straight line. I know you probably dont need this advice since you have a tablesaw but somebody else reading might could use the tip.

Never stop learning buddy thats a good tip, thanks

 

[shimz]

Those 288 Boards are more expensive at the same efficacy. Plus you need a lot of height to hang those boards (18") which OP doesn't have. Also with extra height you loses more light on the walls. So you can even use less strips at higher wattage (ie lower efficacy than the boards) and still end up with the same amount of umol/s/W on the plants.

I don't mean to pick a fight, but I did do a little study on per diode cost of strips vs. boards and found that boards are actually a bit less. If you can get the boards at a discount, even better. I can't argue with your other points, you can get lower with the strips for sure.

 

[PrometheanLeaf]

8x qb120 diy build @ around 1750 ma (40w) each would be right at $380-400.

You'd basically just do 1 qb120 a sq ft leaving the center open. No heatsinks needed but some angle aluminum framing.

I'd recommend using 2x HLG 185-24a series drivers ran in parrelell (one driver: 4 boards), it's a less spendy than a larger driver running them all. You also have better power dimming options for electric savings, You COULD run it on 2x hlg-150-24a series, but they are just as much as the 185 right now.

 

[Humple]

8x qb120 diy build @ around 1750 ma (40w) each would be right at $380-400.

You'd basically just do 1 qb120 a sq ft leaving the center open. No heatsinks needed but some angle aluminum framing.

I'd recommend using 2x HLG 185-24a series drivers ran in parrelell (one driver: 4 boards), it's a less spendy than a larger driver running them all. You also have better power dimming options for electric savings, You COULD run it on 2x hlg-150-24a series, but they are just as much as the 185 right now.

Why limit yourself to less than the boards are capable of? Two 240 drivers would only cost $20 more in total, and would allow you to run the boards at max, giving around 500 watts.

 

[PrometheanLeaf]

As a way of just going cheaper, but really driving 4 boards on a 240h-2100a will give you about 265w and that itself would flower a 3x3 decently by itself. Add in an Emerson board/growmau5 far red puck and or some uv-b bulbs for your last few weeks and you might find your sweet spot of power efficiency and far red/uv. Could even add in a uv-a board to try that out.

Tons of options out there.

 

[Humple]

As a way of just going cheaper, but really driving 4 boards on a 240h-2100a will give you about 265w and that itself would flower a 3x3 decently by itself. Add in an Emerson board/growmau5 far red puck and or some uv-b bulbs for your last few weeks and you might find your sweet spot of power efficiency and far red/uv. Could even add in a uv-a board to try that out.

Tons of options out there.

I think it would have to be a Holy Grail driver to hit 265w. I have two sets of 4xQB120s, each driven by an HLG-240H-C2100A, and they max at 254w and 257w, respectively.

But yes, tons of options, and the 120 is a great, cheap starting point.

 

[diyled]

I think it would have to be a Holy Grail driver to hit 265w. I have two sets of 4xQB120s, each driven by an HLG-240H-C2100A, and they max at 254w and 257w, respectively.

But yes, tons of options, and the 120 is a great, cheap starting point.

Hlg-240h-24a would max them out at 2700ma per board. Probably push 280w at the wall.

 

[CoB_nUt]

I think it would have to be a Holy Grail driver to hit 265w. I have two sets of 4xQB120s, each driven by an HLG-240H-C2100A, and they max at 254w and 257w, respectively.

But yes, tons of options, and the 120 is a great, cheap starting point.

What's up @Humple, I'm still trying to figure out how you are getting more out of your drivers and setup than I. We have the same setups. I know shimz stated that by adding another board I'd max the driver out.That wasn't what I was after. lol I wanted to at least get the 240 watts as opposed to 220.

 

[Humple]

Hlg-240h-24a would max them out at 2700ma per board. Probably push 280w at the wall.

Yeah, if I were doing it again, I'd go parallel.

 

[Humple]

What's up @Humple, I'm still trying to figure out how you are getting more out of your drivers and setup than I. We have the same setups. I know shimz stated that by adding another board I'd max the driver out.That wasn't what I was after. lol I wanted to at least get the 240 watts as opposed to 220.

It's because you're using the B version of the HLG-240H-C2100. The A version offers more current.

 

[Serverchris]

I have 3 hlg-240h-48a on one light and it will pull 920 watts at the wall. I would definitely get the a version of you want to push them the farthest. The doublerows use the 48a while the singlerows use the 24a, that's just samsung f series, I haven't checked other brands.