Strange, but thanks
Light schedule question, 20/4 vs 18/6
- Thread starter Gman94
- Start date
H_Aspect
Active Member
He didn't read the article from Royal Queen Seeds.
Correct, I’ll give it a read.He didn't read the article from Royal Queen Seeds.
McStrats
Well-Known Member
Interesting article and it seems to dovetail with what Mephisto says also. This paragraph from the article sums it up:
Cannabis is classed as a C3 plant, meaning it can absorb CO₂ during periods of light for photosynthesis. This theoretically eliminates the need for darkness, as they do not need periods of dark to photosynthesis, unlike C4 plants. Autoflowering plants have also evolved in the northern areas of the world where they receive near to 24-hours of light as standard during the seasons of growth. As such, it is safe to say that autoflowering cannabis can thrive under 24-hours of lighting.
CikaBika
Well-Known Member
why??
I can bst you if they dobt start to flower first 5weeks they will never flower untill you put them 12/12.. I had several times that problem..
Week 5 is almost over, i can see flowering on one or two out of four plants, should i espect them to stretch alot from this point and forward? They are already very tall.
Any room for some lst?
H_Aspect
Active Member
Why did I tell him he'd regret switching an autoflower from 24/0 to 12/12??
I'm *assuming* his are actual autoflowers, so 12/12 lights are going to produce nothing good that 24/0 wouldn't do significantly better, agreed? I think you're assuming his may not be actual autoflowers due to "they haven't flowered yet".
However, I've never read, anywhere, of an autoflower requiring 12/12 to flower. If you can point me to legitimate sources, I'll concede the point as I'm not an expert, but I have a good memory and I have never seen that said. Not being argumentative, but don't autoflowers flower when they are ready, regardless of light?
My plants are 36 days old today and the last of the 5 (which all flowered some time ago) has now got its preflowers as of some point since last night and now. They have been under 24/0 the entire time. My math makes that 5 weeks on the dot, whereas the other 4 began to flower well over a week ago. Same seeds/breeder, lights, soil, water, etc.
MATTYMATT726
Well-Known Member
Its actually quite common knowledge that a autoflower should flower 2-5 weeks after seed breaks soil. Like any situation in life, there will always be exceptions to the rule. 2 ways that are very well known to make a auto or suspect auto is 12/12 or bump up in flower nutes to push into flower. Just because a auto is a auto does not mean it has no trace of photo from its parents/grandparents, so easily could show more photo than auto when needing to flower. There are mant examples that show right here on RIU that 12/12 have pushed a longer than usual auto into flower. Nobody needs to prove it to you. If you have the doubts you should take the responsiblity to research it.
CikaBika
Well-Known Member
I'm no Expert , I'm just writing from my personal experience.. When I wrote put them on 12/12 I mean just to trigger flowering, we bump up them back to 20/4 and they are still flowering, like they just needed some kick start.. I dont know.. And like I said mine were mephisto all of it, but they were in bad soil ,almost died on me, I saved them by transplanting in last moment, 2 or 3 continued normal growth (but I must say one remain so tiny that I harvest only 5gr of her) second grew normal and those 2 never wanted to start flower.SO we put them on 12/12 and they did, after that we bump light up to 20/4.. If you dont believe me dm, so I can send you my IG acc.. I photo document everything..Good and bad..
And yes people we are not talking about general, these are exemptions.. We all grow autos from the seeds, and just like giving birth you dont know if child will be healthy? Or Like me; fckin it up with some stress to not be normal anymore...
H_Aspect
Active Member
1) No, it's not "common knowledge" because I searched everywhere for it after his post and found no evidence of needed to switch to 12/12 to "kick it off". Doesn't mean it doesn't happen, it means I can't locate source upon source that would make it "common knowledge". 2) See number 1, I did research it.
I don't see why your only contribution to the entire thread was "look it up". @CikaBika is a big boy and can have the conversation with me. No need to come and white knight him.
Yeah, I hear you. Weird shit happens all the time and I'm experiencing it now. I was told my plants growing now should only grow 25-30% when they start flowering, tops. They've well over doubled in size in the last 9.5 days alone. The smallest is now 19" and they go up from there, and I also fucked everything up. LOL
Just to make clear, I CERTAINLY wasn't either saying you were lying or that I didn't believe you, just to clarify it for the adults. I was just looking for some more info on it, because I was having a rather shitty auto grow myself. For some unknown reason they have done a complete 180 and I've done nothing to help or hinder them.
MATTYMATT726
Well-Known Member
You are a clown and therefore im blocking you. Don't be lazy and discredit others because you're knowledge is low.
H_Aspect
Active Member
Well... bye.
DoubleAtotheRON
Well-Known Member
I had a rouge group of 3 autos (I assume) that showed up for my inventory. They are on day 43 now. Im going to flip to 12/12 in a few days.. I don't guess it will do them any harm? The bottom pic is the rest of the inventory.. no pre flowering or flowers. I need a better seed co.
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H_Aspect
Active Member
@DoubleAtotheRON Hey - to clarify my post that started much of this (it was coming from Royal Queen Seeds, oddly enough), an auto is said to produce under any light (even 12/12), it will just produce more under 24/0. That was my original intent with telling him "you'll regret it later" by switching. Meaning his yield would be greater, in theory, under 24/0. But again, lighting *shouldn't* matter to an auto, so 12/12 should only do harm in the sense that they won't produce as much.
However, the first pic (IMG_3725) seems fine for an auto on day 43. If they finish in 8-9 weeks, that's 56 to 63 days. So you could have 20, possibly more, days left. Not an expert, just doing some basic math from breeders websites. I don't remember where I bought mine, but it was one of two places. One says 63 days (9 weeks), the other says "within 75-85 days total crop time". My autos are at 39 days and if they looked close to that at 43 I'd be yelling it from the mountain.
DoubleAtotheRON
Well-Known Member
Well, I'll just run them till they finish then. The rest of the inventory is going to be another 6-8 weeks to finish. I beat the crap out of those autos super cropping them.. they seem pretty hardy. They came labeled as Bubba Kush, but who knows what they are.
H_Aspect
Active Member
As soon as these are done I'm going to try to SoG 5 Special Queen #1 photo's I've got. Can't do any worse than my current effort.
Budzbuddha
Well-Known Member
All I do is AUTOS .....
Autos are wired to FLIP on it’s own anywhere from 20 - 35 days .... the THIRD WHEEL addition of RUDERALIS was introduced because of its short grow cycle and temperament to weather harsher environments ( like Russia and Asia ). But because breeders want only those aspects , other things can happen. Some exhibit a characteristic similar to photos sometimes.... needing to be “ forced “ in to flower.
A true autoflower will thrive under any cycle , with 12/12 being the weakest. Reason being it handicaps the already SHORT VEG and it’s quick sexing. You can get auto males also.
Most breeders have to continually refine offerings as consistency is an issue.
ALL PLANTS have a circadian rhythm as do people .... certain biological processes happen “ in the dark “ .... plants will exhibit a DROOP as its internal clock powers down . It is not to say 24/0 won’t work on some strains .... but you need at a minimum of 16-18 hours of light for vegging an auto properly. I grow always on 18/6 . I find that with a dark period my plants express more fragrance .
It is a can of worms on this subject of dark time but because stomas open and close , photosynthesis increases and decreases during a set day , keeping a REGULAR schedule only supplements the plant to perform as designed.
I have run all cycles on particular runs ....
24 / 0
20 / 4
18 / 6
12 / 12
The following pertains to AUTOS ONLY : ( as regular photoperiod express interesting things with cycle play ) and may throw a thread out on that.
Autos are plug and play .... nothing else. Pick any cycle above 12. Increased DAYLIGHT hours
SUPPLEMENTS THE SHORT VEG .... meaning to maximize the root growth hit with a high daytime cycle. Also .... an overlooked part of good auto performance is the choice of medium used .... soil is standard BUT SOILESS brings the biggest plants....... period.
DWC , DUTCH BUCKET , HEMPY GROWS will reward you with much bigger autos. The Rootmass will explode in highly aerated mediums . Soil grows can be both positive and negative because root mass has to spend some time becoming acclimated to its new home.
I grew soil and SOILESS to compare ... it’s like night and day.
Autos can be finicky eaters , less is more in most cases. Disregard breeder estimates on harvest windows. All auto flowers harden off better UNDER 90 days. ( most cases ) Timing from seed germ is a waste of time. Only a week AFTER it transitioned to flower ( stretch / branch out / hardening j will be the time to “ count “ .... Example : 5 weeks to preflower ( day 35 ) , now at actual flower you run 8 weeks ( 56 days ) ... equals 91 days as mentioned above. This can vary with dwarfy mixes and low Ryder’s , 60 day Wonder and such .This why most fail by cutting them down based on how long it was running not on actual maturity. It’s like growing fruit ... it’s done when it’s done.
There some TRICKS to do with autos ( soil is a bit slower sometimes) so try this.
Run seed to week 5 on 24/0 ( just like a clone ) ... giving max VEG TIME .
Once it sexes out drop cycle to 20/4 for transition/ flower .... finish at this.
Or
Once it sexes out drop cycle to 20/4 for transition / preflower until stretch then drop again
to 18/6. Finish it on this.
You are making out the structure and veg initially , then when it flips gear to flower you are manipulating it to flower longer than 12 and giving it a dark period to process starches and expand cellular growth. You will find your girls becoming fragrant as it goes thru respiration.
Try it .
Autos are wired to FLIP on it’s own anywhere from 20 - 35 days .... the THIRD WHEEL addition of RUDERALIS was introduced because of its short grow cycle and temperament to weather harsher environments ( like Russia and Asia ). But because breeders want only those aspects , other things can happen. Some exhibit a characteristic similar to photos sometimes.... needing to be “ forced “ in to flower.
A true autoflower will thrive under any cycle , with 12/12 being the weakest. Reason being it handicaps the already SHORT VEG and it’s quick sexing. You can get auto males also.
Most breeders have to continually refine offerings as consistency is an issue.
ALL PLANTS have a circadian rhythm as do people .... certain biological processes happen “ in the dark “ .... plants will exhibit a DROOP as its internal clock powers down . It is not to say 24/0 won’t work on some strains .... but you need at a minimum of 16-18 hours of light for vegging an auto properly. I grow always on 18/6 . I find that with a dark period my plants express more fragrance .
It is a can of worms on this subject of dark time but because stomas open and close , photosynthesis increases and decreases during a set day , keeping a REGULAR schedule only supplements the plant to perform as designed.
I have run all cycles on particular runs ....
24 / 0
20 / 4
18 / 6
12 / 12
The following pertains to AUTOS ONLY : ( as regular photoperiod express interesting things with cycle play ) and may throw a thread out on that.
Autos are plug and play .... nothing else. Pick any cycle above 12. Increased DAYLIGHT hours
SUPPLEMENTS THE SHORT VEG .... meaning to maximize the root growth hit with a high daytime cycle. Also .... an overlooked part of good auto performance is the choice of medium used .... soil is standard BUT SOILESS brings the biggest plants....... period.
DWC , DUTCH BUCKET , HEMPY GROWS will reward you with much bigger autos. The Rootmass will explode in highly aerated mediums . Soil grows can be both positive and negative because root mass has to spend some time becoming acclimated to its new home.
I grew soil and SOILESS to compare ... it’s like night and day.
Autos can be finicky eaters , less is more in most cases. Disregard breeder estimates on harvest windows. All auto flowers harden off better UNDER 90 days. ( most cases ) Timing from seed germ is a waste of time. Only a week AFTER it transitioned to flower ( stretch / branch out / hardening j will be the time to “ count “ .... Example : 5 weeks to preflower ( day 35 ) , now at actual flower you run 8 weeks ( 56 days ) ... equals 91 days as mentioned above. This can vary with dwarfy mixes and low Ryder’s , 60 day Wonder and such .This why most fail by cutting them down based on how long it was running not on actual maturity. It’s like growing fruit ... it’s done when it’s done.
There some TRICKS to do with autos ( soil is a bit slower sometimes) so try this.
Run seed to week 5 on 24/0 ( just like a clone ) ... giving max VEG TIME .
Once it sexes out drop cycle to 20/4 for transition/ flower .... finish at this.
Or
Once it sexes out drop cycle to 20/4 for transition / preflower until stretch then drop again
to 18/6. Finish it on this.
You are making out the structure and veg initially , then when it flips gear to flower you are manipulating it to flower longer than 12 and giving it a dark period to process starches and expand cellular growth. You will find your girls becoming fragrant as it goes thru respiration.
Try it .
DoubleAtotheRON
Well-Known Member
IDK, but these 3 girls are going crazy at 18/6. I really wished I knew what they really are. Im not going to mention any names of seed providers, but their initials are Crop King Seeds. Day 44 from seed.
