Damn those numbers are really good they should make a bigger version that can do 600w having bettet spread is nice but having a single led that's cheaper than hps with the same output is also nice.
QB96 Elite V2 w/ SSTX heatsink question
- Thread starter pulpoinspace
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- qb96 qb96 elite v2
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
And, we’re just getting started...
Stephenj37826
Well-Known Member
No
The VF will be what the led need to allow the rated current. The VO could help curb thermal runaway if that was a concern ... It's not.
So I tried cranking up the Vo and got the funny sound which did not sound good, I cranked it back down till I got 180 watts with the IO maxxed out. I suppose I need a volt meter to set it at a certain number? Thanks Stephenj37826, I love your products man. Have purchased 8 288 V2's, 16 132's, and now 6 of these Elite 96's. These new ones can pump out some light! Note to self do not look at the light when first turning on, it was like looking into the sun.
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Yep, i cranked vo, then io, heard the buzzing...did your light go disco?
I have a multimeter on the output side of the driver and a kilawatt on the input side.
All I have is the killawatt, should I go buy a multimeter to set the Vo at something? Yes I saw the disco lights, I could only imagine what my wife was thinking with that light coming out of the garage, probably upping my life insurance policy.
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
You can get a $20-30 multimeter that reads dc and at least measures amps and volts, to help you make repeatable settings, if your driver is adjustable.
Yeah I got the same driver you did.
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Ok, i set my vo at 56.6v (can go to 60.0v), then use io as dimmer, should be able to go from below 120w to above 240w.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Sorry for the delay, bros.
If you're still interested on a cheap spectrometer you can easily build one yourself or get a DIY kit. The spectrum pics are taken with your smartphone cam but you can also get kits based on an arduino webcam. The better ones cost up to 100 bucks for the cheapest solution you only need an empty DVD(to get a 1000 grit diffraction grating) and some cardboard.
Later, upload the photos you made to their website where they will be evaluated and displayed in a corresponding SPD chart, including all required measurements.
I really like this Lego kit... reminds me somehow on my childhood, lol! 85$
https://store.publiclab.org/products/lego-spectrometer-kit?variant=7468634308636
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
TWO 96s will do ya if you have 2x2, 2x3, 2x4, 3x3.
The lights are centered midway between door and back of tent w socket perpendicular to this; side of each light closest to wall is 10” from wall.
Buy a friggin light meter, even if only a lux meter (divide lumens by 67 to approximate ppfd), to optimize your lights in combo with theses maps.
Here are the best ht/watt combos to be near, for each size (door is at bottom of each grid):
Note: the 330/340w info is just for grins, and may not be accurate, since the wattage is so far out of spec’d range of driver.
Next up, three 96s...probably too much for anything less than 4x4, unless you dim bigly....taking bets on which config, row vs triangle, will spread best....
Enjoy!
The lights are centered midway between door and back of tent w socket perpendicular to this; side of each light closest to wall is 10” from wall.
Buy a friggin light meter, even if only a lux meter (divide lumens by 67 to approximate ppfd), to optimize your lights in combo with theses maps.
Here are the best ht/watt combos to be near, for each size (door is at bottom of each grid):
Note: the 330/340w info is just for grins, and may not be accurate, since the wattage is so far out of spec’d range of driver.
Next up, three 96s...probably too much for anything less than 4x4, unless you dim bigly....taking bets on which config, row vs triangle, will spread best....
Enjoy!
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Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Thanks man!
WeedSexWeightsShakes
Well-Known Member
Keep seeing these numbers makes me want to add some more lights to my 4x8 lol
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Where you gonna cram them?
these are looking promising, can’t wait to see what they can do vs my 288s...
pulpoinspace
Well-Known Member
i like the way you're presenting the numbers. your data will be invaluable to anyone using these boards regardless of the size of their op. thanks again.
one request. skip to 4!!
one request. skip to 4!!
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Thanks.i like the way you're presenting the numbers. your data will be invaluable to anyone using these boards regardless of the size of their op. thanks again.
one request. skip to 4!!
Results of two 96s, makes me more convinced that four in a square config will be good, 5 may do it a little cooler (sinks are rated for 200watts)...i’m really liking the performance at 200 and 240 watts/light....
Interested to see what three in a line vs a triangle will do.
Those results should give a glimpse into the performance of zig-zag configs, which may reduce purchase/operating cost for larger spaces. It would be outstanding if 3 could do a reasonable job in a 4x4....
It may also turn out that a single light surrounded by a triangle of lights is a better config than a square or a four light zig-zag.
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure with 4 of them you can get a pretty even coverage with +80% uniformity at already 16-20".
But I can't stop thinking how the numbers would look like with the diodes distributed on 4pcs 2ft strips.
But I can't stop thinking how the numbers would look like with the diodes distributed on 4pcs 2ft strips.
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
@Stephenj37826
If i were in charge of designing these, i’d have a computer model that would create these maps virtually...and i’d push most of this effort back on the diode suppliers...they should know what the hell their product performance is AND have the engineering resources to do it...
Before a single diode is physically placed on a circuit board, there’d be ppfd maps and spectrums for internal and customer use, for all the common tent sizes/warehouse configs...
Physical mapping of the built boards would be the quality check on the design and assembly processes...
Just imagine, you could come up with designs and get customer feedback before putting a single diode on a board...
But wtf do i know?
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Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Lol! Yeah!
Many tests and simulations have already shown here that LED strips allow to drasticly reduce the distance. Much less light gets lost on the walls with reduced distance and you need less watt to get your desired intensity.
Last year I've used about 400w COB, 8 á 38w + 12w deepred and switched to 400w strips mixed with a few smaller CRI90 COBs. Now I've reduced to 300w because I need a lot less power when working at 12" instead of 18".
Still waiting for some connectors to finish it and put it back in the cab.
I could bet HLG already have other products with these diode combo in the pipeline. A stripe design has some key advantages from better distribution to vertical alignment and sun cloak like layouts and the thermal management is much less demanding and could easily be done via c-channels. Double row F-strips in 2ft. length run with 50w and stay cool to the touch with a 40x 40mm c-channel. That would also help to lower the costs even more. Cutters Solstrips are perfect examples for such a strip design.
Many tests and simulations have already shown here that LED strips allow to drasticly reduce the distance. Much less light gets lost on the walls with reduced distance and you need less watt to get your desired intensity.
Last year I've used about 400w COB, 8 á 38w + 12w deepred and switched to 400w strips mixed with a few smaller CRI90 COBs. Now I've reduced to 300w because I need a lot less power when working at 12" instead of 18".
Still waiting for some connectors to finish it and put it back in the cab.
I could bet HLG already have other products with these diode combo in the pipeline. A stripe design has some key advantages from better distribution to vertical alignment and sun cloak like layouts and the thermal management is much less demanding and could easily be done via c-channels. Double row F-strips in 2ft. length run with 50w and stay cool to the touch with a 40x 40mm c-channel. That would also help to lower the costs even more. Cutters Solstrips are perfect examples for such a strip design.