DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
projectinfo said:
Ps for 3 it was 28 including shipping.

Fuck knows what kind of bill il get from the boarder /customs and the tax man but. Still not bad.
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Yeah, when I get my fingers on one of them(next build) I will see the little circuit board and figure out if I can get a similar PCB and make them a little cheaper. I always have to calculate with 25% customs and shipping but there is most probably a minimum value like with us. If its worth less than 25$ its free here and there is probably a similar rule in your country. 3 pieces means 18 $US worth of goods and that may not lead to additional customs fees.
 
projectinfo

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Yeah, when I get my fingers on one of them(next build) I will see the little circuit board and figure out if I can get a similar PCB and make them a little cheaper. I always have to calculate with 25% customs and shipping but there is most probably a minimum value like with us. If its worth less than 25$ its free here and there is probably a similar rule in your country. 3 pieces means 18 $US worth of goods and that may not lead to additional customs fees.
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Sweet , that would be good .

Cannadian here. I find myself buying from the U. S. Alot
 
Randomblame

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
I get a lot of stuff worth less than 10-15$ from china and there is always a little green sticker on it which means no customs to pay. The sender only need to mention whats inside and its worth.
Digital PH-meter with fast stabilisation(less than 30sec.) 5,68$, no custom fees,
humidity controlled relay to control a DIY humidifier 10,89$, no taxes,
PWM motor controller(90w max.) and temp controlled relay to controll exaust fan 2,68 + 10,89$, still no custom fees.
Takes a few week untill its here but thats okay. My old Hanna PH Checker needs 20 minutes to stabilize and still costs 28€, lol! F..., a replacement sensor costs still twice as much like these little red ebay PH-meters I'm using now.
 
projectinfo

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
I get a lot of stuff worth less than 10-15$ from china and there is always a little green sticker on it which means no customs to pay. The sender only need to mention whats inside and its worth.
Digital PH-meter with fast stabilisation(less than 30sec.) 5,68$, no custom fees,
humidity controlled relay to control a DIY humidifier 10,89$, no taxes,
PWM motor controller(90w max.) and temp controlled relay to controll exaust fan 2,68 + 10,89$, still no custom fees.
Takes a few week untill its here but thats okay. My old Hanna PH Checker needs 20 minutes to stabilize and still costs 28€, lol! F..., a replacement sensor costs still twice as much like these little red ebay PH-meters I'm using now.
Click to expand...
Man all i ever used for years is the general hydroponics liquid ph tester vial with drops.

Works fine. For what im doing.

But im in the works now of switching over to organic , sips, clackamas coots home made mix with worms and cover crop and ferments and foliars haha.

Im over the sterile hydro game,, cleaning all the time and running resevoirs and bottled nutes .

I work alot and have enough cannabis. I have a flower room and a tent in another room.

Il start strains and throw them in the flower room and they finish when they finish. Meh. Let them do their thing . Il try some sativas and weird strains .

I only grow personal so id rather try to grow the highest quality cleanest smoke
 
GBAUTO

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
Randomblame said:
Hey buddy! All good for ya?

No, you don't need to worry there is no risk of thermal runaways. You need a lot more current and a possibly voltage of maybe 23v to reach the dangerous zone with EBgen2 strips. With a 20v driver its only possible when you take the A version and set the voltage to max settings. With your driver its perfectly safe and your strips run anyway in constant current mode with 19,6v.

For dimming I recommend this 6$ dimmer from rapidled simply because it use 0-10V dimming without the need of an additional 10v power supply. It works with the little current flow on the dimming output (100μA typ., see screeny below) of the driver and you always get the full driver power without modified 108k poti, additional resistors or disconnected dimmer wires. I have used a simple on/off switch next to the poti to disconnect the dimming circuit in my first build. Without testing the true resistance this poti could have only 80k or so. Do you have a multimeter to check resistance when full turned open? But you need to disconnect the dimmer wires befor testing otherwise you would measured the driver output.

https://www.rapidled.com/cased-potentiometer-with-knob/

That's the dimmer, just two wires to connect. Seems relatively new cuz to date I've not seen them anywhere else..

View attachment 4220936

And here is the corresponding part in the datasheet..


View attachment 4220938
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Just be aware that polarity seems to matter with the connections with Rapid's dimmer. I thought I had a bad dimmer and it worked after I connected red to dim+ and black to dim-
 
lukio

lukio

Well-Known Member
sup guys

bought 2 x 65w H influx L09 strips to build a lil bar to boost the middle of my 4x8. gonna slap em to some U channel aluminium.

Which driver should i buy?

Thanks
 
Shua1991

Shua1991

Well-Known Member
15418628081501180860203.jpg 20181110_100211_HDR.jpg Im having issues. I bought some led's from cob kits and finished my soldering, but only 5/9 are turning on, any insights?

I'm using meanwell driver
 
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Rocket Soul

Rocket Soul

Well-Known Member
Ok. Id be a bit carefull, ive seen people using cv drivers with higher voltage than the cob getting very high temps on their push-in or wago connectors. The cob side should be ok, as you soldered them, but check your connections on the driver side for high temps. The energy from the last 12 volts gotta go somewhere
 
Shua1991

Shua1991

Well-Known Member
The closet I'm keeping them in is pretty cool and well ventilated. Its been on so far about 4 hrs now, the heatsinks seem warm, and the wago connectors seem the hottest. Ill keep checking up on it.

I just turned the lights off, did some feeling, none of the wagos actually seem to be hot, the hottest is the heatsink around the cob but they all seem warm to the touch. So far so good. I've got to build another 3 of these. At least I've got the overall idea now, this thread really helped a bunch.
 
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