DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

boilingoil

Well-Known Member
I only see one negative hook up for the driver. You should have 3. One at the end of the string from the series side and one each from the 2 parallel strips. What driver are you trying to run them with?
 

Mary's Confidant

Well-Known Member
Driver is 185h-c1400a
Have a large number of Bridgelux Eb Gen2 strips 560/2 footers.

Looking at running 12-14 in 2s6-7p for 150-175 watts. Any issue with this?
 

shimbob

Well-Known Member
Yeah, that's what I meant. Thanks for the correction. I was looking at either 7s2p or 6s2p.
You can do either, the driver can handle it. 7s2p gets you more power if your grow can handle it, 6S2P gives 164watts.
Put 6S2P over the top of the canopy and 1S2P as side lighting :)
 

mahiluana

Well-Known Member
how to power Quantum boards with alternative energy?
as i like it simple - i would wire 3 conventional ( ~ 300Wp each ) pv modules in a row.

you will receive a voltage ~ 85-125V and a max. of 10A ( depend of temp. and sun radiation).

so you could run 8 qb (Vf 45-58V / 3,2A) 2 qb in series and 4 in parallel.

no converter - no driver needed to "simulate" a natural daylight cycle for vegging.

Be carefull if you want to connect/disconnect the modules to your fixture @ full load (sun)

because the open circuit voltage is much higher and could damage your leds...

and please also maintain all security and safety instructions requiered by

photovoltaic installations.


I will try something similiar with a single pvt module suntracker in direct combination with

10pcs x 100W cob chips 28-36V / 3A + 10pcs of below 200W boards 28-36V / 6A

watercooled led lamp fixture. ( the voltage fits much better to run all in paralell with a single panel)





If my solar panel produce a max. of 300W -

3000W of leds will light up softly and very efficient @ 10% of max. current.

no heatsinks needed - and every day you could watch the sunrise in your growroom (:

and the low voltage consistancy of your chips.

In wintertime i will add a 6m² reflector on to the suntracker to see how much radiation, electricity and hot water my system is able to produce even in a sunny winterday.

with a sun radiation of ~ 500W / m².
I hope the total wattpower of this low concentrating system will be > 1500W // 450-500W electr. + >1000W thermal energy(hot water) + lots of buds made of free energy:weed:
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
have you ever heard about curtains ?

Have you ever looked from outside on a window with 400w LED behind. Even with light proof curtains you see at least a few extremly bright gaps on the sides. For this reason I would always recommend B-version drivers for peeps living in countries where growing is still not allowed. Yeah, curtains are better than none but dimming down to 6% makes it a little safer and its better as to switch the light off each time. Its also easier to inspect the plants with less light because they look more naturally with less intense light.
 

juansanxez

New Member
I have 16 BXEB-L1120Z that go to 39V and 700mA and I want to connect them in parallel to the HLG-600H-42A driver. Can someone tell me how to do the installation? The driver has 3 output cables, and I do not know very well what function each one has.
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Screenshot_20181023-120243.png

Built this light last grow. As per this diagram.

Last grow it seems i could remember getting up around 40-50k lux no problem.


This time i installed a dimmer. I didnt put a 5w resister tho like they suggested . Not sure where to put my leads to test if im getting the full power through my dimmer or not.

Seems i can only max out around 23k lux this time . Tested with two different phones . Its been reliable so far.

Any ideas ? Maybe the dimmer needs a resister to bring it up to the correct amount?
--any ideas where to find one fast in a small town??? . Theres some smaller hardware stores and stuff around. Not sure what to look for...

I also too the dimmer off and connected those two leads together.

Only got about 7k lux. Wtf shouldnt it be full power without the dimmer ?

Screenshot_20181023-120635.png

@Randomblame
@Serva
@nhfiggs.... Miss ya buddy. R. I. P
 

juansanxez

New Member
:peace:


Your driver delivers 14,3A - so each of your 16 leds will receive ~ 890mA - that`s too much.

Buy more chips and understand, that driving your leds @ low current increase

light efficiency and longlife. Half current means a plus of ~10% lumens / watt
This driver has adjustable voltage and current, I think that is not the problem.
 

GBAUTO

Well-Known Member
View attachment 4220267

Built this light last grow. As per this diagram.

Last grow it seems i could remember getting up around 40-50k lux no problem.


This time i installed a dimmer. I didnt put a 5w resister tho like they suggested . Not sure where to put my leads to test if im getting the full power through my dimmer or not.

Seems i can only max out around 23k lux this time . Tested with two different phones . Its been reliable so far.

Any ideas ? Maybe the dimmer needs a resister to bring it up to the correct amount?
--any ideas where to find one fast in a small town??? . Theres some smaller hardware stores and stuff around. Not sure what to look for...

I also too the dimmer off and connected those two leads together.

Only got about 7k lux. Wtf shouldnt it be full power without the dimmer ?

View attachment 4220268

@Randomblame
@Serva
@nhfiggs.... Miss ya buddy. R. I. P
The dimmer leads need to have high resistance(over 100k) for the driver to go to full power. Leads need to be disconnected for max output. Connecting the leads will reduce output to minimum.
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
The dimmer leads need to have high resistance(over 100k) for the driver to go to full power. Leads need to be disconnected for max output. Connecting the leads will reduce output to minimum.
Disconnect dimmer leads for max power!?

Il report back :) never tried that yet haha

Pretty sure i tried every other option twice That i could think of.
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Been on for 20mins. Its barely warm

10 inch distance.

Then a 6 inch distance
My phone maxes out at 50klux

Do i run the risk of thermal runaway?
Dont want to burn the house down.

Screenshot_20181024-064148.png Screenshot_20181024-064205.png

15403752002728300304575443463406.jpg DSC_1658.JPG
125v ac
When i bought it, i looked for one that was 100kohm
 

Randomblame

Well-Known Member
Been on for 20mins. Its barely warm

10 inch distance.

Then a 6 inch distance
My phone maxes out at 50klux

Do i run the risk of thermal runaway?
Dont want to burn the house down.

View attachment 4220683 View attachment 4220684

View attachment 4220685 View attachment 4220686
125v ac
When i bought it, i looked for one that was 100kohm

Hey buddy! All good for ya?

No, you don't need to worry there is no risk of thermal runaways. You need a lot more current and a possibly voltage of maybe 23v to reach the dangerous zone with EBgen2 strips. With a 20v driver its only possible when you take the A version and set the voltage to max settings. With your driver its perfectly safe and your strips run anyway in constant current mode with 19,6v.

For dimming I recommend this 6$ dimmer from rapidled simply because it use 0-10V dimming without the need of an additional 10v power supply. It works with the little current flow on the dimming output (100μA typ., see screeny below) of the driver and you always get the full driver power without modified 108k poti, additional resistors or disconnected dimmer wires. I have used a simple on/off switch next to the poti to disconnect the dimming circuit in my first build. Without testing the true resistance this poti could have only 80k or so. Do you have a multimeter to check resistance when full turned open? But you need to disconnect the dimmer wires befor testing otherwise you would measured the driver output.

https://www.rapidled.com/cased-potentiometer-with-knob/

That's the dimmer, just two wires to connect. Seems relatively new cuz to date I've not seen them anywhere else..

catch_media_20181024-220335.jpg

And here is the corresponding part in the datasheet..


Screenshot_20181024-223128.png
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Hey buddy! All good for ya?

No, you don't need to worry there is no risk of thermal runaways. You need a lot more current and a possibly voltage of maybe 23v to reach the dangerous zone with EBgen2 strips. With a 20v driver its only possible when you take the A version and set the voltage to max settings. With your driver its perfectly safe and your strips run anyway in constant current mode with 19,6v.

For dimming I recommend this 6$ dimmer from rapidled simply because it use 0-10V dimming without the need of an additional 10v power supply. It works with the little current flow on the dimming output (100μA typ., see screeny below) of the driver and you always get the full driver power without modified 108k poti, additional resistors or disconnected dimmer wires. I have used a simple on/off switch next to the poti to disconnect the dimming circuit in my first build. Without testing the true resistance this poti could have only 80k or so. Do you have a multimeter to check resistance when full turned open? But you need to disconnect the dimmer wires befor testing otherwise you would measured the driver output.

https://www.rapidled.com/cased-potentiometer-with-knob/

That's the dimmer, just two wires to connect. Seems relatively new cuz to date I've not seen them anywhere else..

View attachment 4220936

And here is the corresponding part in the datasheet..


View attachment 4220938
You should have a little gofund me donation box in your sig.

Youd probably make a few bucks

I do have a multimeter. And i did disconnect a poti. Il test their leads tomorrow and report back.

Thanks for the linkand reassurance about the runaway i was kind of worried about running it full blast . But their cool to the touch still :) love it.

Thanks pal , your an asset to these forums.
 

projectinfo

Well-Known Member
Ps for 3 it was 28 including shipping.

Fuck knows what kind of bill il get from the boarder /customs and the tax man but. Still not bad.
 
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